Hoffman Amplifiers Tube Amplifier Forum
Amp Stuff => AmpTools/Tech Tips => Topic started by: tubenit on December 30, 2010, 08:49:10 pm
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Is there a relatively reasonably easy way to cut Hoffman's turret board material? I've got a combo amp that I'd like to redo with a turret board but I'm thinking I need something narrower?
I am thinking that a dremel tool cut off wheel might work but then it would be hard to cut a straight line & perhaps I'd need to belt sand the cut smooth/flat???
Any ideas? I have a band saw but I am concerned about using that on this hard material.
With respect, Tubenit
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I use a table saw and carbide blade.
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Parts still in, or empty board? If the board is "loaded", maybe try making some type of jig that will hold the board and yet give you access to only the end you need to nip off with the dremel tool. Might be easier said than done, but a dremel is nothing more than a small router, and "jigs" are/have always been used with unbelivable success since routers have been invented! If the board is loaded you might have to take out some parts but not many, to give you room to use your jig.
If your not facing a dead-line, and think about it for a while, you'll come up with something that will more than work, at least once.
You could also use a type of "shooter table" jig, only backwards, this time cut off end is under the strait edge end, instead of being on the "free" cut off end of the jig. Use a 1/4" base of ply or hardboard to clamp down the turret/tag board, then screw/clamp down a strait edge guide for your dremel to follow, like only a piece of 1/4"x1/4", or less, of alum. or anything strong enough to not bend. Then use a bushing in the base of the dremel as a follower against the strait edge.
Brad :smiley:
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That board dust really bothers some. especially when its really fine like when you cut it with a dremel.
A vacuum cleaner /Shop vac works wonders for dust control.
One or two cuts not so bad, making a dozen? wear a mask AND dust control.
OH!
Yes Doug's boards cut easily with a dremel cut off wheel (fiber disk, not mini saw blade).
I don't like belt sanders for finishing this type of material, too aggressive and I have a heavy hand.
I use sticky backed sand paper stuck to a table saw top and rub the board against it.
A flat file would make short work of it too, make sure to run a wire brush to clean out the file teeth. they will clog fast if it is too fine.
Ray
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chop saw & carbide tipped blade. leaves a no sanding finish.
oops! sorry, just re-read - yes, as slucky sez - table saw with carbide tipped blade (also called non-ferrous metal blade)
install the blade as per blade instructions (observe rotation).
http://www.amazon.com/Vermont-American-27416-Nonferrous-Circular/dp/B00004YXAC/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1293783735&sr=1-4
http://www.amazon.com/Freud-D1296N-12-Inch-Non-Ferrous-Plastic/dp/B00008WQ39/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1293783982&sr=8-2-catcorr
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Teeth forward or backwards in the cut? Big difference. How many teeth, also a differance, whats the tooth cut/chip angle, is it "forward" from from the radias. center/off 90 or set back from 90 degrs. off center of the saw blade radias center.? Also, different saw blades have different "tooth" set's including "out side grind's" for the tooth edges, center tooth is cut/ground 50/50, same cut left/right on it's out side edge's, but, then next tooth left side angel, sharpened knife edge is cut to soften the left "chip" cut/score left cut, then, 50/50 center ground cut, then right side angle, knife edge to chip/ cut the right side, and so on.
Many more things involved but, the "right" blade, including diamond dust coated blades can/do work wonders! For our needs, a 3" or 4" diamond dust coated blade is cheap.
Also, cutting "glass"" boards, TAKE IT OUTSIDE !!! AND use a good filter mask! Do what you want, but fine powdered "GLASS" dust is NOT what any of us want to take in !
What I think and want to try is a tile wet saw, no or little dust, diamond blade, long lasting, and cheap when on sale at a big box store.
Brad :smiley:
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It's a one off job. So there is no way I am going to buy something to cut with costing more than the board.
:wink:
Having said that, I have a collection of table saw blades so I'll see what I have?
All my sawing is done in the driveway outdoors & I'll wear a particle mask so I'll be good with that.
Thanks. Tubenit
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If you will only be making a single crosscut just use a hacksaw with new blade and be prepared to throw the blade away. I use a 10" 80 tooth blade in a radial arm saw for crosscuts and rips. I use doublesided carpet tape to fasten the G10 board to a sacraficial 'carrier' board for safe/easy handling. I don't actually use a table saw.
I use sting_ray65's method of sanding the edges but with a twist... I just lay a full sheet of 120 grit paper on a good flat table surface. Then I put a real 2x2x18 piece of wood on top of the sandpaper. I use the 2x as a fence to keep the G10 perpendicular while sanding the edges. Move the 2x to expose fresh sandpaper as needed.
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Sluckey,
As always .............. THANKS! I think that'll work just fine.
With respect, Tubenit
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I never rip... Only crosscut. I use a hacksaw blade. Cheap and disposable.
Edges finished in a vice holding the G10 and a file to smooth.
Need 11.5" x 2.5" board?
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I have a band saw but I am concerned about using that on this hard material.
rig a fence on the bandsaw. just don't try to cut too fast & wear a mask.
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Ditto on the band saw, if you don't have a fence, clamp a board on it for your width and go slow. Don't forget to lower the guide and use a push stick
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Hi guys, Being a the construction business i use a 4" angle grinder with a diamond blade ( used for cutting concrete, bricks etc.) because it has no teeth it doesn't grab and cuts straight and smooth. Thanks
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I've been using a hand held jig saw or a band saw with a metal blade.
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I've got a diamond cut off blade for a angle grinder that is rated for enough RPM's and has a 5/8" arbor hole that I use in my table saw. $5 or so at Home Despot, and it works great, and leaves a really clean cut.
Gabriel
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I've seen posts on ampgarage where guys talk about using a tabletop paper cutter (the kind you find in offices and schools) to cut G10 and not generate any dust. Not sure if they were talking about 1/8" material or just 1/16", though.
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Used a "used" hacksaw blade which went thru the material in nothing flat without blowing dust anywhere.
With respect, Tubenit
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I've seen posts on ampgarage where guys talk about using a tabletop paper cutter (the kind you find in offices and schools) to cut G10 and not generate any dust. Not sure if they were talking about 1/8" material or just 1/16", though.
I'm pretty sure they are talking about 1/32" or maybe 1/16" phenolic, not the 1/8" G10 that most people seem to use for amps these days. I could be wrong, though. Certainly, I can't see one of those going through even 1/16" G10, but I've never tried it. You can get a pretty cheap metal shear from Harbor Freight, I'm told, that will do a good job on any G10, though.
Gabriel
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+1 on the diamond blades. As cheap as they are now, you can't beat them. I used to work for a company that made custom insulative products. We did thousands of pounds of everything from CE, LE, and G phenolics, to glastics, fiber, and every plastic known to man..... Carbide will not last and the cut is too rough on the "glass" materials. I realize this is a one-off, but diamond tools are the way to go on powered equipment - and even some hand equipment.
Jim
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Any plywood blade will work it is not that hard
Off Subject
Install plywood blade backwards on a saw you can cut vinyl siding no breakage or chipping
I used it on my Radial arm saw did a great job
So old guy told me this when I was 50 now I am 63 :laugh:
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Any plywood blade will work it is not that hard
Off Subject
Install plywood blade backwards on a saw you can cut vinyl siding no breakage or chipping
I used it on my Radial arm saw did a great job
So old guy told me this when I was 50 now I am 63 :laugh:
Every time I've used a toothed blade I got too much chipping. The diamond blade eliminates that completely.
Gabriel
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I use a hacksaw for short (cross) cuts.
I order from McMaster Carr when I want a narrower board than 3-1/3":
http://www.mcmaster.com/#grade-g-10/fr4-garolite-sheets
(Sorry Doug!)
I use a file to clean up & round off the edges.
Handicapped by lack of a table saw and fear of dust.
Chip