Hoffman Amplifiers Tube Amplifier Forum
Amp Stuff => Tube Amp Building - Tweaks - Repairs => Topic started by: jojokeo on March 19, 2011, 09:59:56 am
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Cuious about faceplate labeling for my amps and chassis'. I will not be using the plastic tape type since most of my stuff has an irregular surface being either powder coated or done w/ hammertone paint. It appears painting w/ a small paintbrush is my only option. I need suggestions on a paint to use for this that will not have a tendency to chip off and that will last.
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You can try this way
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decal paper can adapt well to irregular surfaces
Kagliostro
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Thanks kag but I'm looking to avoid the air bubble look and it won't stick well to some powder coats. Here's a couple of finish examples of what I'm working with.
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How about vinyl lettering? I use it on my projects and think it looks good.
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Yeah, that looks fine but it seems your chassis' are a pretty falt surface? Can you provide more info on what product it is & where you got it or a website? Thanks
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Very nice paints !
The "copper" paint is really giving a vintage look ...... that is More than NICE !
personally I'll be skeptic about decal use with the gray paint for his powdered surface, but I'll try on the copper paint, that looks to have dips but to be very smooth
about bubble you can counteract it with a pin when the decal is still wet
Kagliostro
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With indentations in the surface the "bubbles" really aren't bubbles. They are there because of the "valleys" that remain because of the irregular surface.
The first picture only appears to be maybe grey but it is black as coal. So dark that I have pictures of the chassis right after it was done and you can't even see the holes made before I installed any of the parts. It's lit up like that from the closeness and reflection of the camera's flash. This surface is so irregular that standard electrical tape and other tapes (like labeling types) won't even stick to it. I have to use paint.
I just don't know what is a good type of paint that people have tried that lasts and won't flake or chip off??? I'm not a painter nor do I know much about what's better than others like acryllic, polyeurathane, oil-based, epoxy, ???
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Don't some of the stomp box DIY'ers hand paint their boxes? They must have figured out something that can take being stepped on, got to be tough stuff.
I think they also bake them at a low temp. (125 deg.f ?) to smooth out the paint and to hardin it.
Brad :icon_biggrin:
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Jojokeo I stole one of my wifes little white pens she uses for her card crafts one of the toughest paints I have found with a little tiny point. Im putting up the picture of bluesmiester into the photo bins right now check it out my writting sucks but the paint is there forever. and its a good bright white
Thanks Bill
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Decals won't work well on a black surface, anyway. I tried everywhere and every way and you just can't print white. A printer interprets white as an absence of ink. On a clear decal, that means no letters!. I get sticky back vinyl faceplate covers made at a sign shop but I don't think that'll work for yours. Firstly, it'll completely hide all your nice paintwork and that'd be a shame. Secondly, you really need a smooth surface. The vinyl lettering seems to be the only alternative to hand lettering (which could be really nice if you've got a good hand... I don't). Or... you could do like Ken Fisher did on every Trainwreck I've ever seen. He used a Dymo Labeller on bare metal! I guess if you're making what many considered the best amp in the world, you can afford to be a little tacky.
Dave
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you just can't print white
Now that is right
some years ago there was an ink jet printer that had the white color (don't remember the name and brand)
unfortunately that printer was retired from market
that printer was famous between those who are fans of old radio, people used it to reprint the faceplate of old radios
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what follows is only an idea to try:
find the special paper that permit to transfer an image to cloth
print the faceplate to that paper, than put the paper on the place you want to label and use an iron to transfer the image
not sure this can give a good result, only an idea to be try
Kagliostro
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The stuff I use is the same vinyl lettering you'll see on cars, on walls in crafty homes, on windows, signs etc. I get it from my sister who has a machine that cuts out whatever she wants. It should be at any sign shop. I've even thought of buying a little vinyl cutting machine for around the shop (cricut) but I don't always use vinyl lettering, only for my personal amps and prototypes just to make them more presentable.
I've used it on powder coated steel chassis, hammer painted aluminum, powder coated aluminum and it never rubs off, moves or presents a problem. To me it seems like it would stick nicely on your chassis. I have also used this lettering on pedals which take abuse. The gray amp in my post above is silver hammer paint, it is not smooth but the lettering adheres to it.
As for painting...I struggled through this years ago and find that sanding the chassis lightly, wiping it clean with tack cloth, applying a coat of etching primer paint (bought at my local auto parts store) which preps the aluminum or steel chassis to adhere paint nicely. Then following with a couple coats of hammer paint or spray paint finalized with clear coat in either matte or gloss, depending on the look, works for me. I used to have problems with paint chipping off but not anymore.
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maybe use an aluminum faceplate; OR plexiglass with labeling on the rear; OR 2 thin sheets of plexi with labeling sandwiched in between
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Thanks for all the ideas, it's helping trigger ideas for sure. :help:
I've been trying varying searches w/out much luck and wonder about these: automotive touch-up paint, high temp engine paint, BBQ paint, appliance paint, ceramics paint, glass paint, Testor's model paint,...I feel like Bubba telling Forest ways of making shrimp, lol? :laugh:
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Do a search for Geezer's post where he explains how he does it. I think he posted it maybe about 3-5 wks ago.
With respect, Tubenit
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I don't think my method will work for Jo's chassis, as I think he wants to show off the nice chassis paint, and my method prints a full faceplate that covers the chassis completely, which works great for mine, since they are just plain aluminum anyway.
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That looks puto professional! I'd like to try that in the future. Did you do it yourself and if so how was that that you gotter done so well?
I don't like that I am going to have to end up painting but maybe I can get it done right and it will work out? I sure do like the painted finish though. I've got a pretty decent steady hand so it hopefully would turn out okay? Either than or I need a guy like Nubby, that painter guy on OC Choppers?
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That is a low res pic.....it looks even better in real life! I print it to file as a PDF in the highest resolution it will allow, then take it to Kinko's to have them print it on 100# card stock. I then cut it to size (on site @ Kinko's) & have them laminate it using the heaviest laminating stock they have.
I use a design program from these folks...... http://www.frontpanelexpress.com/
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That's sweet! I love free software that works. But the devil is in the details as they say so I have a few basic questions if I may or is there a thread on this already???
1) I'm guessing that you can make a file atleast to legal and maybe even ledger sized paper for standard/large faceplates greater than 17"?
2a) I suppose you measure your chassis holes already before or after drilling is done?
2b) Or you can place a sheet of paper & rub a pencil over the entire faceplate AFTER drilling everything similar to what I've seen military family's do at funerals where they trace over their loved one's engraved name? Then you can measure everything from the "negative".
3) Then simply cut holes in the final faceplate starting w/ small pilot holes to check their respective centers and enlarge them to fit as best as possible?
Does that all sound about right? Finally, I'm not familiar w/ 100# card stock or laminate material so I'll have to visit my local shop and see what it is. Is it like heavy plastic then?
Thanks a bunch for the great lead and info., it sounds very cost friendly compared to other things I've looked into.
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Hey, jojo, I wonder if you/we could get a templet made and air brush it?
Brad :icon_biggrin:
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I've had a few face plates professionally laser etched, they look great, and cost about $25 to get done.
But I do like the hammer tone look and have often wanted to do what you want to do.
What I've been thinking, sign makers can do any font, and they can also "mirror" the font that is make the letters backward.
stick the letters to a piece of flat stock (wood) and then use white One Shot paint and "stamp" the plate.
OH!
One Shot is THE paint sign painters and pro pin stripers use. The also use Squirrel hair brushes to do the finest lines.
For that matter check out a few pinstripers in your area, When I had my Motor Head Ace of Spade tribute chopper striped, it cost me about $80 and that was by Ray "El Vago" Smith!
Ray
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I go to a shop that does car vinyl. I have a buddy there who will print my stuff on the ends of runs for other customers, spots which are usually waste. I give him a PDF of what I want. Prints any color (including white). The stuff is indestructible and looks good. I shoot a clear coat over it to get rid of the edge.
steven
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silkscreen. use enamel. bake after screening - not in your kitchen oven bozo! :laugh: make a mistake or smudge, wipe it off and print again.
http://www.silkscreeningsupplies.com/screen-printing-starter-kits
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bake after screening - not in your kitchen oven bozo! :laugh:
Ofcourse not, that's what EZ Bake ovens are for...or maybe I can fit my chassis into the microwave and cut down the time even more? :l2:
Thanks Ray, I'm looking for strong/tough paint like that or similar so it doesn't chip off down the road. I've contacted the nice lady from Weber if that's like the lazer etching you're talking about? I'd like to give Geezer's idea a whirl too but that will maybe be in the near future and doesn't address my current amps?
Whichever way, making a faceplate by painting, lettering, or by whatever means - all takes a certain amount of time & related cost associated with it. There's just no easy way to get that professional look. One thing I do know is that my faceplates are going to have to be finished last. I may design something a certain way but quite often I'll change something whether small, or entirely different. A premade faceplate just wouldn't work unless more than one amp of the same kind is built after the initial one.
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An idea just came to me that may work for you:
Reverse etch a clear plexiglass faceplate. Hit the back with some slow drying paint (the color you want the lettering) then wipe it off. It should remain in the etched areas but come off clean everywhere else. A paint store can tell you what paint will work. You could tape it off and use a brush if you'd rather. When it's good and dry, use a decorative screw on each end to mount it. Your nice paint job will show through and be protected by the clear plexiglass and the controls will be marked. If you're careful, you could even use one color for the control lettering and another for the amp name.
Hope this helps,
Dave