Hoffman Amplifiers Tube Amplifier Forum
Amp Stuff => Tube Amp Building - Tweaks - Repairs => Topic started by: EL34 on November 28, 2011, 08:28:50 am
-
Look up above - Vote for the chassis style you are interested in
You can to vote for more than one style
I can also go back and add more voting options
If you choose Some other shape - please explain down below
A chassis building company would like to hash out some designs that you guys think would be useful.
They will make them and have them on hand or I may stock them here
My idea is to:
Keep the designs generic so that many different amps could be built in the same chassis.
Maybe block off plates for tube holes not being used?
Maybe 2 to 4 basic shaped chassis?
A long chassis for building Fender/Marshall type heads and Combos?
A small chassis box for Stouts or single ended amps?
Maybe a tweed style chassis?
Don't split off in ten directions
Try and hash out something that many people would find useful for their projects.
Just throwing out ideas
Jerry (the manufactuer) will be checking into this post to help hash out the designs.
Some of the problems I see are transformer hole sizes being very different
You could have an over sized tranny hole and different block off plate sizes - Not sure how to solve this?
I have all the tranny hole sizes listed on the library page
Another issue is four power tube amps
If you make a chassis long enough for 4 power tubes, it will be too long for most other people.
I would say to stay with 1 and 2 power tube amp chassis for now and see how that goes?
Maybe set up the chassis to use the removable power receptacles and IEC cords?
Jerry can jump in and throw out ideas on how to solve any issues we may encounter
Here's a pic showing some popular chassis configs
Small generic box like a Dukane chassis or a PA amp chassis?
Long Marshall 18 watt style chassis?
Fender Tweed style chassis?
Fender combo style chassis
(http://www.el34world.com/Misc/images/chassis2.jpg)
-
I am saving this post space for the manufacturer
-
reserved space - Please post down below the features you need on your amp chassis.
-
I like the fender combo but in a one channel like a champ (I voted other, should I change that to
Fender combo?) I'd like a slant face single champ or a little bigger 2 input six holes for pots
/me Make sure you voted for this at the top.
Good point - I don't think too many people want the non reverb channel on a Fender combo chassis
It would make the chassis much nicer IMO to have just the reverb channel
BTW, a champ is not a combo
I am thinking the Fender combo chassis starts with Princeton reverb and ends with a large amp like a super or Pro reverb.
A champ could be built in a small box if needed
-
I chose the small box, and 18W/Marshall.
Not sure how difficult it would be to make, but the plates for different size trannies and socket hole covers is a good idea. Even would be nice if perhaps the socket holes were made for octal size with plates made to fit over to take the 9 pin sockets.
/me Yeah, sounds like that may work.
Other wise you have 5 different chassis for just the Fender combo style amps and that is not gonna work for me.
Once we nail some things down we could have votes on the socket hole sizes and other small details
-
Just reflecting my own thing here ......... but since I don't build clones,
I'd like to see two chassis blanks that are a reasonable thickness aluminum
One in the blank Marshall Tweedish 18 watt style 20" x 6" x 2.5"
(I have hacksawed those 20" tweed chassis blanks down to 18.5" in two builds)
The other blank with closed in ends like a box that is 20" x 6.5" (or 7-8") X 2.5"
The latter one would be good for the Tweed Overdrive type amps.
With respect, Tubenit
-
If doable a Princeton Reverb chassis plus a super-reverb chassis. Those two should cover most of the slope front style needs, with seven holes for pots on the front for the reverb channel.
-
I vote for a blank closed end 20 x 6.5 (or 7) by 2.5 or 3
same as tubenit second blank
/me - Well that's basically the Marshall chassis shown above without any holes. So what did you vote for?
-
So many guys (& girls) seem to be doing multiple preamps into a single output, tube effects loops, tremolo, reverb, paralleled triodes, or whatever. A Super/Twin or 100W Marshall chassis seems more versatile in the possible builds & mods you can do.
-
How about a blank with just the holes for the tubes up top ( for a head or reverse it for a combo)
Then the builder can decide what knobbage and drill what he'd like and the difficult part (octal and noval holes) are already done.
Basically anything that can be done at home with a drill wouldn't be included.
-
Doug,
I voted for "other"
/me - yeah, I guess we are just hashing out basic shapes, not all the little detail like holes. I think the Marshall chassis would be what Jeff and Ernie are describing, no?
-
What about transformer mount options as well? I for the most part don't use transformers that lay down.
/me - see the top post about block off plates
-
You can go back and change your vote and you can vote for multiple chassis shapes
All we are working out for the moment is basic shapes, not all the holes, etc
-
Hi guys, My idea is way outside the box. The chassis are made in three pieces front panel , back panel and deck. The front and back panels can be blank or ordered with pre-drilled holes etc. or sloped and supplied with printed face plates (because you know how hard they are to get)The deck could be ordered pre-punched as well.The three pieces are then bolted together to form the chassis :think1:Thanks
/me - That's an interesting idea - modular construction
-
A large style Marshall with five preamp holes?
-
i voted other shape.
fender princeton sized combo w/ 3 octal and 4 9pin punched you can build just about anything short of a full blown dumble. front panel holes on a fender combo are a bitch to drill, so maybe full compliment of holes and let the builder cover the unused holes with a custom face-plate. i think it will accommodate deluxe, princeton reverbs, deluxe reverbs, and head style (AB165) bassman builds.
for "other" shapes - two would be ideal 17.5x8x2.5 and 24x8x2.5. either with just the IEC punched, and maybe 1/2" hole for the fuse holder. leave the tranny patterns to the end user or offer CNC machining services for the trannies you sell. charge a machining fee + buyer has to buy the trannie(s). 0.09" thick Al would be a big +.
i have my own CNC and vertical mill, so it's really not a problem for RicharD and i, however, the combo front panel is a different story altogether.
the final vote tally will be interesting since most folks here seem to be building smaller amps lately.
--DL
-
Hi guys, My idea is way outside the box. The chassis are made in three pieces front panel , back panel and deck. The front and back panels can be blank or ordered with pre-drilled holes etc. or sloped and supplied with printed face plates (because you know how hard they are to get)The deck could be ordered pre-punched as well.The three pieces are then bolted together to form the chassis :think1:Thanks
* EL34 - That's an interesting idea - modular construction
Brilliant! I like that idea lot.
with respect, Tubenit
-
Large Marshall style chassis & 17 X 6.5 X 3. Blanks
-
Everybody is into different stuff and it changes all the time.
I build all my amps using the Hammond chassis. I use the 12 x 10 and the 16 x 8 most often. I would love to have them drilled out for me but everything I do is custom.
I think it's going to be hard to get a consensus.
$0.02
-
+1 for modular
-
I think it's going to be hard to get a consensus.
I bet we can all reach a consensus on that statement! :icon_biggrin:
-
I would like to see tweed and Marshall styles in a couple different lengths. Having the IEC hole punched would be handy.
-
"Some other shape"-
Modular-that could be broken down to fit into a padded envelope/flat box.Offer "L" pieces for right angles and assembly.Pre tapped-for flat head screws.
I think I asked Doug about offering this before.
But I do a lot of custom work too so it's endlessly changing.
I think it's going to be hard to get a consensus.
I bet we can all reach a consensus on that statement! :icon_biggrin:
I agree.
-
Not sure how strong a bolted together module chassis would be, but it's a cool idea
They do that sort of thing for rack gear with different front and back panels
-
I have used this method with a 2mm aluminum sheet and 3mm U profiles for front and back. I used short screws to bolt it together and it is very sturdy. In fact it is so sturdy that the open sides don't need reinforcements.
EDIT: replaced links with attachments
-
Heinz - links don't work.
IEC holes are a PITA to cut. I bought a couple of blank chassis that had nothing else cut in them other than the IEC holes.
There are plenty of chassis options out there if you want to build an 18-Watt, Princeton Reverb, etc. with the stock number of tubes & controls.
IMHO it would be great to have a couple of generic head chassis - large & "small" - with IEC, front panel and tube holes done precisely. Opening for a lay-down PT is somewhat problematic, but that's an even bigger pain to cut yourself so offering a PT cut as an up-charge option would be perfect for me (but not for vendor). OTOH Hammond offers a lot of different stand-up PTs.
Small chassis: 2 input jacks, 7 (or 8 control knobs), pilot light, four 9-pin & three 8-pin tubes.
Big chassis: 2 input jacks, 10 control knobs, pilot light (or Marshall switch), four 9-pin & four 8-pin tubes (SS rectification plus 4 power tubes -or- just use 3 of the 4).
To me, a generic back panel is virtually impossible. Reverb/none, foot pedal(s)?, speaker jack(s), effects loop?, and I'm sure I've left some possibilities out.
I love the modular concept but would prefer to have end caps of some sort too, particularly for bolting chassis to cab/head box.
With deflation, that's 1 cent...
Cheers,
Chip
-
+ 1 for the modular construction chassis as Timbo told
simple but effective
Front and back panels + the aluminium sheet that Doug can pre-drill as from costumer order or sell without holes (or only with assembling holes + fuse hole and VDE Intake - square hole are always a problem)
Kagliostro
-
Sorry, I can't do any machine shop stuff
I am pretty much tied up with all the other stuff I have to do
-
Heinz - that's pretty cool !
-
Heinz,
Those looks like simple aluminum extrusions which are very strong
You could take that concept and change it around really easy
Back panel could have switch, fuse holes, etc
Top could have tube socket holes
bottom could be solid or no bottom at all
-
Hello, I represent the manufacturer that is considering production of a "standard" set of chassis for the amp building community, as if there is such a thing as a standard chassis. We currently build OEM enclosures for over 100 companies and no two are exactly alike. That being said, I can see that the 18W Marshall and the Fender Combo have a slight lead in the poll. That's a start.
I see some good "outside the box" ideas too. If possible, try to focus on 2 widths and 2 hole configurations. I can probably justify 4 chassis, beyond that I would be out on a big, long, thin limb with the top management here. I find the modular idea interesting, so I may have to look at some concepts and pricing in that area. Keep in mind that a manufacturer's product will be refined to have the best utilization of space (tight internally). A personal builder can afford to have more space (and first time builders probably need it). The hard part of dealing with a metal chassis is bending, and punching big holes. Keep this in mind if you think a minimalist approach is good. You can let us do the hard part and leave some of the work for you and your tools. A simple metal channel with the big holes punched may be best option. I don't really know. That is what I need to get from you, the builders.
We are not ready to define the holes yet, but I will throw one idea out there for your comment. I may be wrong, but it appears to me that dual small output tubes and dual large output tubes cover "most" designs, with covering up a hole being an option if only one output tube is used. A couple of big holes for the PS capacitors appear to be needed as well. The number of tubes before the output does seem to vary a lot. Consider having plenty and covering those not used.
I look forward to your comments and ideas.
PS - I'm new to the forum. If I am not "performing to spec" let me know.
Regards
Jerry
-
Hi guys, Heinz is on the mark of where i was going and i have done a similar construction on my first builds (flat pieces of alli fixed together with angle)
The front panel :-
It could have pot and switch holes pre-drilled to suit both Fender/Marshall standard face plates (on one panel) and the face plate is going to cover over the unused holes anyway and if it is a custom build then the required holes are used and the face plate is made to suit. The panel can be flipped to make a reverse chassis. Parts of this idea can apply to sloped front.
The back panel :-
1/8 holes could be pre-drilled in a way that if the builder required extra holes (foot sw,speaker etc.)he could drill the hole to the required size and the left over 1/8 holes would be great ventilation for the chassis.
IEC socket hole would be great
The deck :-
Standard tube spacing Fender/Marshall (on one deck)with supplied pre cut/drilled disc to cover unused holes.
Deck can be flipped for reverse chassis.
PT and OT Hoffman standard mounting holes could be pre-drilled (may applied to circuit boards as well)
A supplied angle piece of alli could be used for the Marshall box setup.
Overall :-
If holes are pre-drilled to suit Hoffman parts i'm sure a kit could be put together
Just some ideas, thanks
-
The more I think about it, probably the best compromise for everyone - builder and manufacturer - would be the blank chassis with the big holes done ( IEC also). If you stuck with big holes and IEC only, 3 or 4 different templates would be serve most needs.
Even in steel, 3/8 and smaller holes are a breeze. It's the 3/4 -7/8 that are a pain.
Then again, if you end up with more holes in the face than you need, just fill them with important looking switches. :icon_biggrin:
-
OK, if we are narrowing it down to 2 primary choices:
A tweed style chassis (open ends) 20"x 6.5" x 2.5"
Back panel punched out for power cord IEC hole. Top of the chassis punched out for four 9pin holes, two 8pin holes (with 9 pin plate adapters) and one 8pin hole (for rectifier tube). Nothing else punched out.
A closed end box chassis 21" X 8" X 3"
Back panel punched out for power cord IEC hole. Top of the chassis punched out for five 9pin holes and three 8 pin holes. Nothing else punched out.
Drilling holes and cutting out a square for the PT is not that hard.
With respect, Tubenit
-
Heinz' method rocks.
I use 2mm aluminum a lot.
-
Modular! There are so many standard generic options out there. Only when the box is really wide or long does the market thin out.
Recently I ordered enough 51mm U Channel and flat plate to do about 12 amps like the Heinz method / "out of the box" suggestion. I feel much better now seeing Heinz's results. I had already done one test-run and it was very sturdy. I saw the sections and plate in a friend's architecture office, they were samples for a facade, and he gave me a load but they were only about a foot long. Now I am trying for 645 x 265mm and a slope front. The Alu- plate is 3mm. I will probably add sides because of the size.
I voted for other because:
1. for a modular solution, as already mentioned, some kind of elegant connector, that perhaps could handle a slope front version would be really useful. With the fixings supplied you would get over any metric / imperial thread issues.
2. While walking the dog a while back I had an idea for a simple folded C shape, modular, but not very wide- maybe each section only 2 to 3", with different punched holes- to mix and match along the length. Have I lost everbody? (There is something like this for 19" rack panels, one piece for each cut out xlr, or whatever). I will try and sketch it later on today, but it way work out too complicated and pricey.
best, tony
-
Can the under lip of these chassis be pre cut for cage nuts for easy attachment to cabinets?
-
From a marketing standpoint, I'd suggest picking a couple of the most popular models and undercutting the competition by a few bucks. For us re-inventors of the wheel, the modular ideas are very cool and that gets you a product that nobody else offers. I'll burn a few brain cells thinking about something widely flexible -n- universal.
-
I already figured out how I would do it
A cnc jig that holds the U channel face up in long lengths.
You could cut any number of different front and rear panel configs
The machine would cut all the holes and shapes and trim both ends to perfect length
Mcmaster has a bunch of different widths
I think 3 inch wide x .125" thick would be the ticket
Fenders are only 2 inches high
You'd have to take 1/4 inch off the width for the thickness of the material and so you end up with 2.75 inch interior space on the U channel
-
Doug, why not do it like your board material? Get a sheet metal shop to bend up some 8 foot long chassis using .08 aluminum. Use 6.5" X 2.5" with a .5" lip. Then all you have to do is crosscut to length. Sell by the inch. Keep it simple. Blank chassis only. DIY if you want holes. :icon_biggrin:
Here's a sample of what I mean. I cut this chassis to length from a 24" blank using a radial arm saw.
(http://home.comcast.net/~seluckey/amps/warbler/w_06.jpg)
(http://home.comcast.net/~seluckey/amps/warbler/w_07.jpg)
-
Sounds good, but I don't have time to take on anything more that involves shop labor.
If I wanted to take on more stress in my life I could open a machine shop and have employees and do all sorts of cool things.
Many years ago I started to dump everything that involved my labor so I could focus on just the parts business.
The way I like to do it these days is to design something and then turn it over to a machine shop.
The blank chassis idea is not a bad one, but I would have to have pre-made lengths on hand
I had blank chassis for sale many years ago, but they got too expensive to have made in small batches.
This whole thread is about a manufactuer that contacted me asking if they could design some chassis that I or you guys would be interested in buying
So I guess we should let Jerry soak all this in and see what his ideas are.
If he cannot come up with anything you guys would be interested in then so be it.
If anything comes out of this thread and what sticks in my brain from all of this so far, is the modular panel idea.
-
the modular panel idea.
I think that would go well and the guys from other amp building forums would buy it also, IMO.
With respect, Tubenit
-
Hi guys, I talked to my sheet metal guy and his thoughts would be to have the front and back panels done in 1.6mm steel and the deck done in 2.5mm alli. The reason for this is that the steel has tighter bends and will bend better for the slope fronts ( can be painted ) and having alli for the deck tends not to twist as much ( also the octal when mounted under the deck sit nice and flush on top :icon_biggrin: )
He informs me that a laser cutter can be programmed to cut any shape and once programmed they then can be massed produced (i know EL that this is not what you yourself are wanting to do and the cost of the set up might be too much.
I do a lot of business with these guys at at times they do me a few favours and would do me a one off pretty cheep but who knows whether this idea will take off. Thanks
-
All those are nice and interesting ideas
I think that the more simple and effective is Sluckey's idea
only one or two very long chassis (different width) made by correct thickness aluminum that will be cut as from customer request
this will lower the cost to you and to the customer
if desired, as you use only two measures, it will be easy to have also a "C" alluminium profile pre cutted in the corners by the manufacturer to close the sides
Kagliostro
-
Box shaped chassis 20"x8"x2.5", closed sides, small lip (3/8" or 1/2") on 20" edge for strength, aluminum and/or steel. Matching faceplates of the same material would be important, also.
As I've gotten down to a single design, all the same except for the PT cutout, I'd love to order small (5 at a time) batches with all holes but the smallest holes precut. Doug, I know you can't do that... for the same reason I don't want to. Just too much time involved!
This comes at the perfect time. I just used the last of my Komboking chassis and I signed in just to ask where to find more (since Mike is not doing it any more). My local machine shop sold their equipment and went to strictly welding. I need 5 more... and soon!
Thanks!
Dave
-
Personally, I'd like to see a fairly large head sized blank chassis made of a fairly high gauge steel. It's a bit harder to work with, but I like the feel of steel a more than Aluminum. Kind of like the chassis used in Marshals, but without any holes, or even better with just the IEC hole cut. I can drill round holes easily, and I kind of like stand up PT's, but that IEC hole is a pain in the butt.
Gabriel
-
I think it's going to be hard to get a consensus.
I bet we can all reach a consensus on that statement! :icon_biggrin:
:icon_biggrin:
-
REPOSTED on the page 2
-
Nice drawings Jeff
-
Reposted 2nd page
-
Tubenit --
You are so responsive, organized and sharp -- why don't YOU run for Pres!!
Another benefit of the modular chassis would be during assembly, repairs and mods. I have often wished I could take off one of the sides of a chassis to tough-up a nasty solder joint or rescue a dropped nut or washer. Wiring up pots would be great if you could lay down the side of the chassis and then bolt it on.
It would be easy to add/subtract a socket or pot. Maybe have testing panels that would include ports that may not be on the final design.
Hope this happens -- I think Tubenit is leading the way!!!
-
Here is what I have in mind.
3 chassis
Various front plate panels for different models
With respect, Tubenit
-
Reposted from the first page so they can be viewed along side of the post above this one.
IF we are going the modular route where we will punch our own holes for tubes or drill for pots (on some of the designs) ...........
then I strongly would prefer Aluminum chassis with a sturdy thickness to them.
Tubenit
-
Type 1 would be a tweed chassis with on/off on front panel. It would have room to punch out four 12AX7 holes (preamp/LTPI) ...........BUT only two would be punched out for two 12AX7 and three 8 pin holes. You'd need a 8pin to 9pin conversion plate. That would allow 5Y3GT or 5V4 rectifiers. 18.5' x 2.5" x 6"
With the possibility of four 12AX7 holes, you could build a Tweed BluezMeister (which I have done with that size chassis) ........... OR a 56T .......... OR a Little Wing.......etc.....
Lots of options.
Type 2 would be a box chassis that could be a head or combo. 18.5" x 3" x 6.5" It would be punched out for four 12AX7's and three 8 pin holes. Again there would be 8pin to 9 pin conversion plates.
NOTE: You'd need it punched out in a way that could allow two more 9 pin holes for the four EL84's punched out for the AC30
Type 3 would be a box chassis 20" x 3" x 6.5"-8" (either is OK for me).
It would have 5 12AX7 holes and three 8 pin holes.
You could offer 3 chassis & (if possible) 10 faceplates to get it all covered. If you sold the faceplates, then you could punch out ALL the options of the front panel since the faceplates would cover NOT used holes.
With respect, Tubenit
-
I would leave a bit more space between the PT and the OT for a choke. Great ideas Tubenit.
-
Now ya COOKIN :m2 :m3
-
The magnatone custom series (m10, m15, etc) had a very scaleable chassis.
The design allowed small amps with 4 tubes up to stereo amps with 13 tubes
And 2 output transformers (13 novals), stand up OTs. The front had a grid
Of 45 holes (3x15) that could be used for pots, switches or jacks. Different
Amps got different face plates the covered all the holes. The chassis was heavy
Gauge (maybe 18gauge"") the face plate was light gauge, maybe 24 or 26.
It might be worth looking at some of sluckey's m10 gut shots to get an idea.
The manufacturer could make a strong heavy gauge chassis with the matrix
Of control holes, and a blank faceplate with no holes drilled, but with a small
Guide hole drilled on the back for each possible hole that the home builder
Could drill with a hand drill.
On top, i'd punch 4 octals and maybe 8 novals. An optional cover plate with four
novals that would lineup over octals could be included for all noval amps.
Extra holes for grommet access, no transformer holes, use standups (or) one
Large hole (maybe for a bassman PT?) with a cover plate.
On back nema c14 power and 8 or so holes for fuses, output jacks, switches etc
-
> focus on 2 widths and 2 hole configurations
Here's the thing. Fender had one style in the 1950s, in maybe 2 widths and several lengths and hole-counts. Then another style in the 1960s, couple widths and several lengths.
Then Marshall did about the same thing but different "standard" width and detailing.
And VOX.
Most of these, you can see they re-set the press-brake stops only a couple times a year, as seldom as possible without sitting on heaps of bent metal inventory. Many are not box-brake but use stamped end panels.
> a manufacturer's product will be refined
Conversely, a "copy/tribute" amp "must not" be refined to actual need. The mojo is in (so buyers think) the historic shape and detailing. And building a 3-knob amp on a 10-knob chassis is awkward; a 50-watt chassis won't fit a combo-cab for 8" speaker.
And if you do tool-up for a range of copy-chassis you will learn that Weber and CeraTone and several others, some working in low-wage areas, already have the more-popular chassis covered.
OTOH, some builders and buyers accept non-historic chassis. Actually the Bud and Hammonds are "historic", just not what Fender/Marshall used. Worked well for me. I would have liked more choice of depths; but if Hammond can't afford to stock many H*W*D combinations, you can't either. And moreso than historic chassis, on a non-historic chassis the PT and tube and knob positions can't be standardized.
There's also cost. The full BOM for even a little Champ is a lot of bucks. Buyers are musicians and few of them have a lot of money. So builders are forced to lowest-price chassis (unless they can promote a super-sexy chassis to a higher price for a weathy dentist).
One specific "need": everybody hates the IEC. How about a 5-side dog-box which screws down on the top surface of any chassis and has the IEC hole in the end? Not a high-cost part, but perhaps high-value for many buiders.
-
Some very good points there PRR, especially about the IEC.
Even a flat plate with the IEC stamped out and four holes to screw it over our wonky IEC holes would be a great help!
-
very nice work Tubenit and I love the modular idea...very flexible.......
this would work well for the back and front panels alu channel (https://www.speedymetals.com/ps-2533-13-1-12-x-2-12-x-18-channel-6063-t52-aluminum-extruded.aspx)
-
I guess you guys scared Jerry away :dontknow:
-
Nah! He's just busy working up the PowerPoint presentation. :grin:
-
only two cents ,,maybe i missed reading a post
can you use the idea of push out metal holes ..
similar to an electrical box .or similar press out design holes
square .triangle ..round holes .
pressout circles,,, on top of each other small to large where needed .. push or press out the size one needs ..
tom
-
One specific "need": everybody hates the IEC. How about a 5-side dog-box which screws down on the top surface of any chassis and has the IEC hole in the end? Not a high-cost part, but perhaps high-value for many buiders.
I like the IEC.
It makes sense, when the cord is yanked on it can pull out of the back of the amp. and there is a spare cord on the back of every computer too!
what I dont like is IEC w/ fuse
an IEC plate w/ a DD hole for a buss fuse holder would be very attractive
-
I have not been scared off yet, but it is getting a little hairy. Sorry it has taken so long for me to post, but we have been very busy lately -- that is a good thing for the people who work here. I'm looking at all this excellent input and beginning to wonder if it is possible to build a "generic" chassis since everyone's needs are so specific. Here are a few points that seem to be generic from what I am reading.
1) Punched IEC (Power) connector hole is very much desired.
2) Two or three 1" (?) punched 8-pin tube socket holes desired (with 8-pin to 9-pin hole adaptor plates also desired).
3) Three to six 3/4" punched 9-pin tube socket holes desired (with tube hole cover plates also desired).
4) The two most common lengths mentioned are 18" and 20"
5) Depth needs to be at least 6.5"
6) Height of 3" would work for most designs.
If I incorporated these items into a 0.080" channel chassis, box chassis, or modular chassis that has a light textured black powder coat finish on the outside surfaces and small pilot holes in place for the rest of the (sometimes) necessary, or (sometimes) optional, openings that the builder could drill to their individual preference, would I be headed in the right direction for a "generic" chassis? :think1:
-
Yes. Actually that should be more than enough options for 3/4 of what is needed. I think those chassis would go over great with the less experienced guys like myself. The IEC hole is the biggest "cool thing".
Speaking only for myself, the blank I used on my first timer was 8" wide (or deep) and had the lips on the ends, not the front and back. Once I got past the aesthetic part of that, I really appreciated it with all the tweaking on the pots and everything else - that is, not having to work around a 1/2" lip. FWIW, the corners were not welded either, and it's plenty stable for my use.
Just my 2 pennies. :smiley:
-
If I incorporated these items into a 0.080" channel chassis, box chassis, or modular chassis that has a light textured black powder coat finish on the outside surfaces and small pilot holes in place for the rest of the (sometimes) necessary, or (sometimes) optional, openings that the builder could drill to their individual preference, would I be headed in the right direction for a "generic" chassis?
That sounds reasonable and headed the right direction, IMO.
With respect, Tubenit
-
The two most common lengths mentioned are 18" and 20"
I did not catch that you said 18". It's NOT a big deal, but I would prefer 18.5". Sometimes that .5" extra is useful.
I build my own cabinets and typically used 3/4" boards. Doing it that way gives me a 20" width cab.
19.5" cab would be OK, but just sort of an odd dimension?
With respect, Tubenit
-
sounds all good & I think the small pilot holes would be really very helpful.
Some of the aluminium stock channel that I was using had a small groove running all the way along the inside center of the extrusion. I appreciated that.
Best, tony
-
Sometimes that .5" extra is useful.
I gotta hear it from my wife, and now here???
-
Bump
Any news on this front!?!?! :w2:
-
I'm with tubenit except I build amps 50 watts and bigger. An
ideal chassis for me would be a blank 24"x7"x2.5" boxed ends with
and inward mounting lip.
-
I like the Fender black/silverface chassis but not angled in the front-just straight up and down. This makes cabinetmaking easier.
-
Jerry the manufacturer sent me another drawing based on all the feedback here
It's a generic chassis with block off plates, etc
I can't tell much from the hand drawing he sent
He is going to send me a sample when they get time.
They are really busy right now so it may be a while till I see what they came up with
-
I'd like to see a basic Ampeg B-15 style chassis with tube cage. Thanks for asking.