Hoffman Amplifiers Tube Amplifier Forum
Amp Stuff => Tube Amp Building - Tweaks - Repairs => Topic started by: olgoat on April 02, 2012, 07:52:43 pm
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All. This is my first tube amp build and I had a question on wiring the eyelet board. I have two components that are a parallel resistor/capacitor. The cap legs are long enough to make it through the eyelets but the resistor legs are a bit short. They just barely make it TO the eyelets.
I was planning on twisting the resister legs around the cap legs and soldering the two together, then solder the cap legs into the eyelets.
My concern is future testing or replacement of either the resistor or the cap. I suppose it isn't a big deal to replace both. It just didn't look like most of the pics I have seen so I thought I would ask.
Does this really look funky?(http://i813.photobucket.com/albums/zz51/olgoat52/5e3%20build/IMG_2227.jpg)
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the right way to do it is NOT to twist the leads together but straight in the eyelet, I am pretty sure the resistor's lead long enough. 1/16'' - 1/8 max in the eyelet
question: where is the solder ????????????
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If you have to do it that way, I don't see why it wouldn't work. But I would give a little air space between the resistor and the capacitor for cooling.
Colas, I'm pretty sure he's laying everything in before soldering it all.
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Yes. I haven't soldered yet. Figured I would lay it all out and make sure I have everything where it should be. The resistors were barely touching the eyelets. Definitely were not long enough to go into the eyelets. (http://i813.photobucket.com/albums/zz51/olgoat52/5e3%20build/IMG_2228.jpg)
Thanks for the comments. Maybe I can put the resistor in straight and just catch it and put the cap off to the side a bit.
TWC
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Go for it. Cost is under a dollar today. That particular resistor/cap is probably good for 25-30 years. Will you be replacing it in 2040? :wink:
I hate the short leads on those new CCs! :cussing:
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Old-size layouts and tagboards don't work well with modern short-leg parts.
Do what you have to do. Ideally that cap should be desolderable in 10 seconds without touching the resistor, to keep repair-shop costs down. But as Steve says with good modern parts you won't be replacing for decades, you won't be paying someone else to untangle it, and the way resistor prices are going it will be cheaper to chop both parts out than to try to save a penny resistor.
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Short legs in a long legged world.. That I can relate to. :icon_biggrin:
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Hi olgoat, We all hope that the combination of Cap/Resistors will remain the same as the original schem but i like to be able remove the parts with little fuss :cussing: So as you have found the legs aren't long enough this is how i do it and makes for easy removal. I found that the resistor has a thick lead and would support itself on the turrets and most of the Caps had lighter leads and were the most likely to be changed, although i do not bend the leads into the turret. When using eyelets the component lead has to be bend into the eyelet but some times a few need to be put into the one eyelet and it could be a tight fit so to reduce the number this could be away to reduce that number. Good luck
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I've used a similar technique as Timbo when piggybacking resistors/caps. Easier to remove separately than untangling several twists.
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once, I tried to put the components before soldering them, I had a surprise when I hooked up a lead by under. If you want, you can fold the leads of the short resistor 90 deg, say half inch, do a hook and pass it under the cap leads and solder it straight to the cap leads. It'll be cleaner and much more easy to replace if you want to tweak your tone after. Soldered twisted leads are very difficult to tear apart. What you can do also is lengten one leg of the resistor with a proper solid wire ( leg from a burnt resistor or other ) by making two hooks and shrinkable tube for a better look, if you can see what I mean ( no picture and not so good english ).
Colas
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I like the ideas Timbo and Sluckey. Thanks. That looks like a better way to go.
Since this is my first build I am anticipating getting it wrong (already have) so going with the "Dry fit" seemed to make sense. Those turret boards are pretty. Eyelet boards are ugly. Next time I'm going turret.
Thanks
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No,Turret boards are ugly and eyelet boards are lovely.
I use eyelets all the time.Once you do a few amps they are easier and can be neat as a pin.
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No,Turret boards are ugly and eyelet boards are lovely.
I use eyelets all the time.Once you do a few amps they are easier and can be neat as a pin.
Right, I hate that :
:laugh: