Hoffman Amplifiers Tube Amplifier Forum
Amp Stuff => Tube Amp Building - Tweaks - Repairs => Topic started by: worth on June 15, 2012, 07:57:30 am
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I'm really tired of wrestling with the Fender power cord strain relief.. what other options are out there besides the IEC ? I've looked at Mouser , but didn't see anything.
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There is a tool for this. Makes it easy. Here is one.
http://www.amazon.com/Heyco-STANDARD-STRAIN-RELIEF-PLIERS/dp/B001BPY6KI (http://www.amazon.com/Heyco-STANDARD-STRAIN-RELIEF-PLIERS/dp/B001BPY6KI)
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Thanks... I have the tool , but it's still a pain.
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I have used Doug's method of putting a grommet inn the chassis instead of the strain relief and then screwing the cord to the cab via one of those plastic side clamps (no idea what they are called). It works pretty well, but you must use the plastic clamp as the grommet alone won't keep the cord from going in and out even with cable ties on each side of the chassis (Doug's recommendation).
Those pliers look cool but they are way out of my budget!
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Grommet in a hole & plastic ties on either side of the grommet.
With respect, Tubenit
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a grommet and if possible i use a cable tie to fix it to something else in the chassis. like a PT bolt or something.
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I used to do the grommet with plastic ties , but the cord wasn't held tightly enough, and rotated in the grommet too much. I like the one in the pictures ... plastic, with a right angle through the chassis hole, ( from an old Yamaha bass amp).
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There are a few flex cord box connector options in the electrical section of Lowes. None is as elegant as the simple Heyco style strain relief. This is the best looking of the lot in the electrical section...
http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=108659-15527-49212&langId=-1&storeId=10151&productId=3150213&catalogId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1 (http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=108659-15527-49212&langId=-1&storeId=10151&productId=3150213&catalogId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1)
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Might be overkill, but I switched to Neutrik Powercons. I only have to drill a big, round hole, something I can handle. Disadvantage: if someone, say a drunk drummer, trips over the cord, the whole thing comes crashing down. Advantage: nobody ever steals the cord, because 1) they can't figure out how to get it out; and 2) nobody else can use it.
steven
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respectfully, grommet and wire ties are totally unsafe and a fire/shock hazard. the cord should NOT be allowed to rotate. unless you can cut a semicircle, then a strain relief in a drilled hole is nearly as dangerous.
there are alternatives - some uglier than others.
http://www.breakerking.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=8_87 (http://www.breakerking.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=8_87)
i'd use the relief with the chinese finger in that lineup.
IEC is the safest. conventional fender type strain reliefs are generally not accepted practice anymore and manufacturers have been moving away from the practice; they are still supplied mainly for replacement. IEC makes world-wide marketing easier as well, just supply the correct power cord for the region/country.
bite the bullet - grab your dremel tool and cut the IEC hole.
respectfully,
--DL
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respectfully, grommet and wire ties are totally unsafe and a fire/shock hazard. the cord should NOT be allowed to rotate.
I appreciate what you are saying. However, if the cord is screwed to the side of the cabinet as well with a plastic whatever-it-is I don't see how the cord can rotate. As for cutting IEC holes with a Dremel...well, you are obviously much more skilled than I am with a Dremel.
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Found this.... they provide free samples.
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Found this.... they provide free samples.
Who are they?
-thanks
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Heyco liquid tight cordgrips at Mouser: http://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?Keyword=heyco+liquid+tight+cordgrips (http://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?Keyword=heyco+liquid+tight+cordgrips)
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Found this.... they provide free samples.
Who are they?
-thanks
uniteduniversal.com
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Heat the cable with a heat gun before installing the strain relef.It will slide right in.Not too much heat,just enough to make it softer.
Works every time for me.No struggling at all.
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I really like the IEC socket with the integral fuse holder that Doug sells. Cutting the hole takes a little while with a steel chassis, but it's tidy and safe.
Physco - Thanks for the tip about heating the cord a bit for a traditional install. BTW I always add a clamp to the cab in that case.
Cheers,
Chip
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Heat the cable with a heat gun before installing the strain relef.It will slide right in.Not too much heat,just enough to make it softer.
Great tip... Now why didn't I think of that.
I have installed MANY IEC connectors. A hard wired power cord has no place on a head!
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Hey All...
Who sells an IEC punch to fit Doug's connectors? I checked Greenlee's site, n/a.
Thanks, bart
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What tubenit said is how I usually do that:
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8144/7479287690_88ebcde657_b.jpg)
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here's a cheaper tool
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Strain-Relief-Bushing-Assembly-Tool-300-151-/380451315778?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5894aa6042 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Strain-Relief-Bushing-Assembly-Tool-300-151-/380451315778?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5894aa6042)
I bought one, works excellent for a cheep chinese made tool
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Who sells an IEC punch to fit Doug's connectors? I checked Greenlee's site, n/a.
The ones I've seen in catalogs are at least $250.00 +, or were they $350.00+. :w2:
Brad :think1:
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I was looking around for one a while back, and yeah they are plenty expensive. If you were building an amp per week it'd be well worth it. But for a guy like me drilling the corners and a jigsaw works fine.