Hoffman Amplifiers Tube Amplifier Forum
Amp Stuff => Tube Amp Building - Tweaks - Repairs => Topic started by: Ed_Chambley on January 03, 2013, 03:16:30 pm
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I have begun building the Tweed Deluxe Reverb. I have been working on this off and on for about 6 months and have everything ready except the chassis. I will have to punch my own for this baby.
From Mouser the chassis is 2 week out which is no big deal to me since it has been so long. Are there any drawbacks using the aluminum? Would you recommend getting the steel?
Edit: Sorry, I forgot to mention this is going into a Deluxe 5e3 cabinet with 1 12. Chassis is 17 x 4 x 3.
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soldering to chassis, is tricky but doable.
I always thought about using metal studs for chassis. (I have a source for C channel or U channel 16 or 14 gauge) including the punching.
I have the resources to make chassis, but for $29, I can't see doing it. I ask not so much for soldering, but I have never really known why some builders (Marshall) use aluminum and others use steel.
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Looks like a Blackface Fender to me.
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With some transformer sets, aluminum has to be impracticably thick to support the transformers without undue flexing.
I used steel, I've used aluminum. Some claim benefits with a magnetic/nonmagnetic chassis (arguments can go both ways). I've had good amps made with both.
Aluminum is a lot easier to work if you're punching/drilling/filing yourself.
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With some transformer sets, aluminum has to be impracticably thick to support the transformers without undue flexing.
There's pics of old Marshall amps with aluminum chassis floating around and you can clearly see how the weight of the PT bent the chassis.
Aluminum is a lot easier to work if you're punching/drilling/filing yourself.
It sure is easier to work with. I've drilled out a couple with brad point bits, piece o cake. Same for the tube sockets using green lee punches.
Also much better as a heat sink if your going to use Power Scaling/VVR with the circuit.
Brad :icon_biggrin:
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Looks like a Blackface Fender to me.
It is, so you are suggesting steel since it is a Blackface Fender?
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That Hammond 1444-20 is only .04" thick. You can literally twist it like a pretzel in your bare hands. I have built 3 amps using that chassis. Some of the spot welds have already broken and my amps only see bedroom usage. The chassis would never hold up in a gigging situation with the iron you'll put on it. And you'll hate building in that 17x3x4 box! I only chose that chassis because it would fit the standard 5E3 cab and I didn't have the fabrication resources I have today.
Since you have access to fabrication, I'd suggest a .08" or .09" thick aluminum chassis. Just a simple "C" channel with open ends. 17" x 2.5" x 5" (or even 6.5"). Kinda like this...
(http://home.comcast.net/~seluckey/amps/november/nov_03.jpg)
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Try Dirty Dawg Amps for a blank chassis.
Brad :icon_biggrin:
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Thanks for that link.
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Thanks Steve for the input. The .04 hammond is a no go as I do tend to drag around amps quite a bit.
I guess I will make one since I do have the ability to do so. I just thought it would not be worth it since the price was so cheap. Now I know why the thing is cheap. I will just scribe out a layout for the metal and make one. My metal skills are better than my wood skills anyway and I can make it a little larger as you suggested. I was sort of worried about chassis space because after all, I do not have quite the lead dress skills as you.
A "U" channel should work fine, I will just have to make another back cover for the chassis since I have already cut the vent holes to the spec of a 5e3.
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Looks like a Blackface Fender to me.
It is, so you are suggesting steel since it is a Blackface Fender?
Either one will work. I like aluminum better as the filings do not get under your skin or collect on anything slightly magnetic.
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Try Dirty Dawg Amps for a blank chassis.
Another positive review for Dirty Dawg. I had him make the chassis for my Standel build, using 0.063" 14ga aluminum for the power amp chassis. The transformers are pushed out towards the sides, but with 13-14lbs of transformer weight it's still sturdy with no flexing. I did have him alumiweld the corners for added stiffness.