Hoffman Amplifiers Tube Amplifier Forum
Other Stuff => Effects => Topic started by: jojokeo on August 20, 2013, 09:24:25 pm
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Sharing yet another pedal. This one is similar to an old-school pnp germanium Dallas Rangemaster but with LED, three input caps (like a Beano Boost by Analogman) to vary the gain/drive and response, and a voltage inverter for pedal board cohesiveness. It mates with FuzzBurner like peas and carrots but also plays very well on it's own. But with a compressor in front it takes away the slight dark or nasally sound when certain germaniums exhibit this characteristic (this one does not but depends on germ type & gain level used) and also really helps humbucker equipped guitars that can sound dark due to the way the transistors are by nature. It's really good in front of overdrive/distortion pedals as it gives an extra kick. As always if anyone is interested in one PM me.
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"Afterburner" reminds me of a wild trip to Rocky Point Mex......too much tequila will cure any urge to drink again....IMHO
cool pedal Jo
smacko jack
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I like. Notice the jacks on the top. Great design.
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Just a few things to help:
I have a whole slew of germanium transistor types, too many to name. But, one thing I've found is that there's no "magical" transistor by itself. That goes for all of them even the old (EXPENSIVE) glass Mullards, etc... Yes, they do have sound characteristics between them but in the big picture what matters most is what sounds the best and/or is most versatile for the circuit and/or situation that it's in. In all of my testing and playing there's a number that work well in the Afterburner circuit. What's also important to know is that the true gain (gain-leakage) is also very important. This is what gives a clarity/more transparent/brighter/reactive tone as opposed to a darker/gainier side of the spectrum. Don't mean to get overly detailed & informative but want to put it out there to give a better understanding on germanium transistor behavior/characteristics.
So it's not as simple as saying, "I have an NKT or OC or AC type of tranny and it's therefore the best one to have" or "this sounds the best - get these."
One other thing, I think when people talk mojo in the guitar world you have to take things with a grain of salt. Same applies here in whether to use a carbon battery or having an LED and things like that. What bullshit! Using any battery type or ability to put onto a pedal board w/ the inverter chip makes no difference in sound, tone, and/or response all things being equal. Obviously, if you are running only battery powered and it's very low in voltage it will make a bit of difference just as it would in biasing your tube amp's voltages differently.
I use all NOS trannies like American 2N404/2N414, CV7355, 2N1307, 2N1309, Russians such as MP14, MP20, MP2, GT309, SFT308, SFT307, ASX12D, English/British, AC125, ASY27, Japanese, etc... and many others not listed here (but that's more than enough to choose from for this pedal). You can always change it if you ever wanted or needed to so don't fret> (yes, that was a pun, lol)
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Yes and no OJ. It depends on the tranny(s) & circuit as to the sensitivity or amount of difference it makes as to performance and/or sound. Jfets for example are very sensitive and "needy" of bias pots (but not must haves) because of extremely high variations in their tolerances from one another. The trim pots allow the biasing to be accomplished much easier and faster. Plus if you swap out trannies or are making an amount of pedals at one time biasing is much faster & easier there too.
The fuzzface can be sensitive to heat variations so the external bias/sun dial pot used on the sunface is a nice functional control. The voltage pot on zvex's pedals is functional to help create gating & fuzz character. But at the end of day it seems like amps & pedals sell well with more options & controls because more has to be better right?!
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JoJo; good day. would you mind sharing a schemo of that little neg. dc to pos. dc board you make? I just built my first PNP germ Ranger and I'd like to swap it around so I don't have to use a separate PS.
thanks, jacko :icon_biggrin:
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Sure no problem. Here ya go.
*You can use two 10uF/25V caps if you like or even omit the 47uF if applying to a circuit w/ a power supply cap on it already.
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thanks jojo. that's a easy to read schem.
much appreciated.
:icon_biggrin: