Hoffman Amplifiers Tube Amplifier Forum
Amp Stuff => Tube Amp Building - Tweaks - Repairs => Topic started by: dude on June 05, 2014, 05:15:30 pm
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Mid-Boost switch.
Dealing with tight chassis space in this conversion, once the board is in changes are difficult.
The white wire goes to cap on bd. for mids, the black to ground.
A continuity meter on the two wire ends, rings when switch is off (mid boost off) and nothing when mid-boost is turn on.
Thanks, al
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Yes. It looks complicated but all the switch is doing is shorting out the cap/resistor. A SPST switch would work just as well. There is a much neater and more compact way to wire that switch if space is cramped.
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Yes. It looks complicated but all the switch is doing is shorting out the cap/resistor. A SPST switch would work just as well. There is a much neater and more compact way to wire that switch if space is cramped.
Yes, I see that now but was just copying the schematic. I'm coming to the conclusion that working on amps is more about the theory than coping layouts or even schematics for that matter. Seems I went from layouts to schematics thinking once you can copy a schematic to a board, you've learned a lot but not so. There are many ways of doing things in a circuit and the way a particular schematic does it isn't necessarily the only way.
Leaning the basic theory of the operation of tube amps is far more beneficial than leaning how to copy a schematic into a layout, IMO.
Thanks,
al
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pic...
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Your diagram is another way of wiring a DPDT switch, less space required than the schematic.
But the easiest way was your suggestion of a SPST switch. Smaller switch and less wiring.
Thanks again for getting me to think out different ways of wiring a circuit. More ways to skin a cat...
Thanks as always,
al
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No, the 2 wires from the center lugs to one set of end lugs shouldn't be there.
The 2 lines on the switch diagram in the center of the switch body are confusing you; these only show that in one setting of the switch, the internal switch contacts connect the center lugs to one set of outside lugs. If you actually attach wires there, the switch does nothing, as the setting never changes.
Wrong.
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No, the 2 wires from the center lugs to one set of end lugs shouldn't be there.
I suspect that connection is merely providing a convenient method to install the components directly to the switch.
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I must have been sleepy; you were right the first time.
There are connections indicated from the center pair of lugs to the right pair of lugs, matching the wiring of the switch. Sorry for the confusion...