Hoffman Amplifiers Tube Amplifier Forum
Amp Stuff => Tube Amp Building - Tweaks - Repairs => Topic started by: EL34 on August 31, 2014, 02:40:30 pm
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I am collaborating with Mojo to have a small chassis made that would be suitable for a 18 Watt type amp head
It is based on the Seeburg chassis I built my Hoffman Stout in, which is one of my favorite amps
(http://el34world.com/projects/images/DSCN1699_small.JPG)
But since I am designing the chassis from scratch, I can create it any way I want
But Mojo also is going to sell it so they have some input on what they want also
This is what I have so far
12 inches long x 6.5 inches deep x 2.5 inches high
.09" thick Aluminum - Standard Mojo aluminum chassis thicknesschassis
Mojo makes custom faceplates and so you can design your own
I will probably have Stout plates made and for sale
The front panel has 6 x .375" holes and an indicator lamp hole
You can fill the .375" holes with switchcraft jacks or pots
The top has 2 holes for 9 pin sockets and 3 x 8 pin socket holes
I plan on stocking adapters to make the 8 pin holes into 9 pin socket holes
OT and PT holes are for the Heybour 18 watt tranny set I stock
There is an extra set of OT holes for Deluxe sized OT's
The choke holes are for a small Fender sized choke
There's a couple rubber grommet holes on either side of the OT
The back holes are -
IEC receptacle,
Fender fuse Holder,
On/Off switch,
Rotary impedance selector switch
2 speaker jack holes
There is an image below that shows how the Hoffman Stout Board fits inside the chassis
I added a couple cap bracket mount holes to the right end so you can mount a 40x20x20x20uf filter cap on the inside wall
The cap will not fit above the PT and so it sits below the rectifier socket with lots of air space
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The Brown Note guy had a batch of "experimenter" chassis made some years ago that had some nice features, including:
1. Small oval holes adjacent to the potentiometer holes to receive the little tab on the mounting face of the pot that is meant to keep it from spinning if the nut loosens;
2. Holes intended for toggle switches have rectangular key at top to correspond to keyway in switch bushing;
3. front panel has several sets of holes for input jacks, to permit various configurations (one or two channels, hi/lo inputs or single input, etc.), also a number of toggle switch holes interspersed between pot holes to permit many different knob/switch configurations
4. Hole intended for impedance selector rotary switch has three small irregularly-spaced holes around it (I assume these are intended for the tabs on different brands of switches?);
5. Fuse holder hole has flatted sides -- is this so that the hole could be used either for a fuse holder or for a traditional power cord with stress relief?
I can take a couple pictures if you like.
Also, with regard to the power tube socket question, maybe consider having the chassis have the two preamp sockets as drawn, then next to that have a rectangular cutout, over which a plate with two or three octal or noval socket holes could be attached. You'd have to stock several versions of the plates, but it might be worthwhile, since it would allow a customer to build anything from an 18watt variant with an EZ81 to a 5E3 to a 6v6 plexi into one of these chassis.
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1. Small oval holes adjacent to the potentiometer holes to receive the little tab on the mounting face of the pot that is meant to keep it from spinning if the nut loosens;
not all pots are keyed on the same side. the impedance selector switch is another story: since it's a higher effort to actuate, spec the exact switch and machine the key hole.
I thought about having the power tube holes be 8 pin socket holes and using a block off plate for 9 pin sockets
that would be a cool feature: can then option for 6V6/6F6 tubes. maybe a smaller prod. run with octal only and the bulk all noval?
the octal rect. socket is fine. wouldn't consider using a noval rect. in something like this.
my 2cents.
PS: how about a 17" x 8" version for the 1 ch. AB763 or JTM45 or bassman? spec the 50W marshall iron you sell for all 3 versions. the reverb OT would be fender. dual pattern machining for either fender or marshall choke.
--pete
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Just my .02
1. Small oval holes adjacent to the potentiometer holes to receive the little tab on the mounting face of the pot that is meant to keep it from spinning if the nut loosens;
Not worth the extra cost for the few pots that actually have that tab. I solder a buss wire down the back of mine and the pots stay put
2. Holes intended for toggle switches have rectangular key at top to correspond to keyway in switch bushing;
Maybe, but Mojo does not do that in their chassis. Not really a problem that I have ever seen since you are throwing the switch up and down and not twisting it
3. front panel has several sets of holes for input jacks, to permit various configurations (one or two channels, hi/lo inputs or single input, etc.), also a number of toggle switch holes interspersed between pot holes to permit many different knob/switch configurations
Small holes for mini toggles can be easily drilled if you need them. Can't put holes between pot holes because the spacing is set up for chicken head knobs and the beaks will hit anything between the pot holes
5. Fuse holder hole has flatted sides -- is this so that the hole could be used either for a fuse holder or for a traditional power cord with stress relief?
Yes, Mojo does that on some of their chassis, I am specifying a double D hole for the fuse holder
Thanks for the input
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I thought about having the power tube holes be 8 pin socket holes and using a block off plate for 9 pin sockets
that would be a cool feature: can then option for 6V6/6F6 tubes. maybe a smaller prod. run with octal only and the bulk all noval?
the octal rect. socket is fine. wouldn't consider using a noval rect. in something like this.
Thanks, I'll see if Andy at Mojo already makes block off plates. I think it would be nice to be able to use 6V6 tubes
Hole intended for impedance selector rotary switch has three small irregularly-spaced holes around it
My 3 way rotary impedance selector can be cranked down really hard with lock washers. I have not see one move yet that was properly installed
PS: how about a 17" x 8" version for the 1 ch. AB763 or JTM45 or bassman? spec the 50W marshall iron you sell for all 3 versions. the reverb OT would be fender. dual pattern machining for either fender or marshall choke.
Mojo already has some chassis sort of like that. I stock their 18 watt aluminum chassis. They also have a 50 watt plexi chassis and several generic Fender chassis
Thanks for the input guys
Here's the back drawn with a Double D shaped hole for the fuse holder
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How flexible is the cap can location? It looks like it is directly under the octal rectifier tube. I know it needs to clear the bottom of the PT as well. its not super critical, but if you have room to move it toward the front, it might open up access to the octal.
I think cutting holes for octals instead of novals for the power tubes is a great idea. It seems that a single square sheet metal adapter to provide for the noval is something mojo could sell for any of their chassis equipped with the same octal cutout.
Once the power tubes can be octals, the chassis is prime for a dual purpose of a 5E3 amp as well (or many others). Maybe a well placed 3rd bolt hole would provide other OT options (if the 5E3 OT has a different bolt span there...).
These are small nuances... everything looks fantastic!
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How flexible is the cap can location? It looks like it is directly under the octal rectifier tube.
It won't fit above the power tranny
Not really a problem where it is. You wire that socket one time and you are done with it
There is a pretty good air gap between the two
And the heat rises so the socket is on top of it
My stout in the picture below has the same location. It was built in 2005 as is ticking away without any problems
I think cutting holes for octals instead of novals for the power tubes is a great idea.
Yeah, I am contacting Andy at Mojo to see if they have already done something like that
I drew up individual block off plates in case you want to build a single ended amp
The single block off plates would be round and bolt into the 8 pin sockets mounting holes
Once the power tubes can be octals, the chassis is prime for a dual purpose of a 5E3 amp as well (or many others). Maybe a well placed 3rd bolt hole would provide other OT options (if the 5E3 OT has a different bolt span there...).
I like that, that's a good idea
Here's the insides of my Stout. The cap is under the rectifier
(http://el34world.com/projects/images/DSCN1698_small.JPG)
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Some new drawings with some changes
I added another set of OT mounting holes that will accept the 022905 Deluxe OT
My idea for using individual block off plates
I modified the chassis holes in the drawing below to have cutouts so that the 9 pin mounting hardware can fit through the 8 pin socket holes
The adapter has extensions so you can bolt the 9 pin socket in place with #4 screws and #4 keps nuts
I may be able to make those extensions a bit small and use #4 self tapping screws to mount the 9 pin sockets
The small diameter ring around the outside of the socket drops down into the 8 pin hole on the chassis
I made an adapter on my 3D printer this morning and mounted a 9 pin socket into it
I think this idea may work fine
I am sure Mojo would have no problems cutting the adapter in two separate pieces on their water jet or their laser cutting machines
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very cool!
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I think you have come up with a very versatile chassis. Nice design to it. The octal to noval adaptors are nice.
With respect, Tubenit
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Thanks Guys
I sent the drawings off to Andy at mojo to see what he thinks about the adapter idea
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Got an email back from Andy at mojo
All those changes are no problem and they already make a 9 pin to 8 pin adapter
It offsets the 9 pin socket in the 8 pin hole
It looks way simpler to make than my idea and you don't have to alter the 8 pin holes on the chassis
I would just go with their adapter
It looks like this
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How much more would it cost to make a program change mid run on the chassis whereas you could make some for 9 pin and some 8 pin. I do not know how many you are making, but it would not make constructing the chassis any different. Only a program change and keep right on cutting. I guess whoever makes them is using water blast cutting.
I mention this because you are gathering more of your items together for a build on you site. Like if I wanted to build the stout, I would find everything together. In a perfect world I would not have to use adapters. You have not mentioned what you can sell them for, but the adapters add around $15 to the price for each chassis after you get 2 and have them shipped from MoJo.. At that price on a 100 chassis order it wouldn't take long to pay for another program setup to make both chassis. I am thinking it would be better and cheaper to make 2 versions as long as it is just a change in cutting and not overall size.
But what do I know?
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I asked,
Andy does not want to make 2 different versions
They have to make them and put them in their catalog and a bunch on the shelf
Two different versions is more cost for them
I am stocking everything here, there's no getting adapters or chassis from Mojo
I am a Mojo dealer
I have public parts list on my site where you can add all the parts with one button
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Doug, have you considered selling blank chassis? That option appeals to me. That 12.5 x 6.5 x 2.5 is a very handy size for many small projects.
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I'll have to ask Andy if he is interested in doing a small blank
But I'll wait till this project is done first
Andy makes a blank Aluminum chassis but it is 17 inches long
http://www.mojotone.com/amp-parts/chassis-generic-project/Undrilled-Aluminum-Chassis#.VAYIuPm2jpw (http://www.mojotone.com/amp-parts/chassis-generic-project/Undrilled-Aluminum-Chassis#.VAYIuPm2jpw)
Undrilled Aluminum Chassis (Dimensions 17"L x 6 1/2"W x 2 1/2"H)
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I asked,
Andy does not want to make 2 different versions
They have to make them and put them in their catalog and a bunch on the shelf
Two different versions is more cost for them
I am stocking everything here, there's no getting adapters or chassis from Mojo
I am a Mojo dealer
I have public parts list on my site where you can add all the parts with one button
Oh, I thought you were saying just order the adapters from MoJo. I got it now.
Too bad they cannot make a punch out like an electrical box, but I would guess they are not stamping the chassis.
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Too bad they cannot make a punch out like an electrical box, but I would guess they are not stamping the chassis
No, this is real precise stuff, no punching
.09 inch thick aluminum cut on a laser machine
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Doug, have you considered selling blank chassis? That option appeals to me. That 12.5 x 6.5 x 2.5 is a very handy size for many small projects.
Steve,
If I can get Andy to bend a few of these without any holes, do you want one?
BTW, they are 12 x 6.5 x 2.5
I noticed you typed 12.5"
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I noticed you types 12.5"
That was a brain fart. I meant 12".
I don't currently have a need but thought while you're on a roll I'd ask. It would be great to have a source for blank chassis, maybe even an assortment of sizes. That 12" chassis is a very nice size for a lot of small projects. If I needed a 12" blank and you had one, then I'd buy it, rather than have to go to you know who! :wink:
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You know, if you were to make slight changes to the overall dimensions, and make the mounting flanges folded inward instead of outward, this chassis could be a perfect fit for an Epiphone Valve Jr. cabinet. Epi sold a lot of those things; the cabs were good quality (plywood, not particle board); and I bet a lot of them are sitting around in closets, basements, etc., their owners having either lost interest in them, or ruined them trying mod the circuit boards.
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I'll ask Andy tomorrow if I can get some blanks with no holes
I don't see a problem with that, but you never know
I don't have a final price yet on the drilled chassis
Andy has to take all my CAD drawings and figure all that out
Just as an example, Mojo has two versions of their 18 watt chassis
The 17 inch long 18 watt chassis has a drilled and non drilled version
The non drilled cost me $16 less that the drilled, so I expect the non drilled Stout Chassis to be way cheaper
Drew, There is no room to bend the flanges to the inside
Plus if you use a rivet nut on the inside, it has height also
If this was a longer chassis, then there would probably be room enough to do that
Mojo bends the flanges out on all their aluminum chassis and so I am sticking with what they are used to doing
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Yes, I bought a couple of their 'blank' chassis' and their very good, BUT !!!! What I don't understand is why they didn't cut holes for square cage nuts (Marshall style) or have modern 'press nuts' installed.
Brad :think1:
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maybe use tinnerman U-nuts?
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/clipnut.php (http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/clipnut.php)
--pete
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I'll have to ask Andy how they secure their chassis that have the wings bent out
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these look great so far. i'm interested for sure.
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:thumbsup: Wow Doug, that is sweet. You answered on of my future questions about not using the tube rectifier from that picture. I need to start my thread later about building this
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I noticed you types 12.5"
That was a brain fart. I meant 12".
Just wanted to make sure you had enough room inside :)
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Mojo just uses #10 bolts and nuts on this style chassis
Andy had a point about the Marshall type cage nuts
You hardly ever see a Marshall chassis with all four still in place
I found these 1/4-20 thread clip on nuts that are fairly reasonable in price
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Found these and they are even more reasonably priced
I ordered a bag of these to check them out
They are 10-24 thread
A Truss head bolt and these nuts should do the trick
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1/4"-20tpi would be my choice. maybe stock both?
--pete
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> maybe use tinnerman U-nuts?
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/clipnut.php (http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/clipnut.php)
Thank you thank you thank you ! ! !
I've been stupid. I've known Aircraft Spruce for decades.
But when I needed sturdy clip-nuts for a chassis mounting some years back, I didn't think to look there. Great stuff. Much more trustworthy than the junque at Home Despot.
AND... my tractor has two throttle controls. It really needs three, and they should work better. I should have a hand throttle near the backhoe controls, which is out-of-reach of the main hand throttle.
Being near the sea, I went shopping for power boat levers. Ouch! Way over-priced.
Aircraft Spruce has a $20 job which may do me; if not for the big tractor, maybe the lawn tractor.
Then they have robust hand throttles $50-$90.
Also the good vernier lock knobs, which were an option on my machine, but the price has always been intimidating ($70-150). At least at Aircraft Spruce I know they are not junk, as I suspect for some of the low-price eBay offers.
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Have you never think to use deformable threaded nuts
they require a simply round hole ad exist also in steel and aluminium or an anti vibration rubber version
(http://www.scaramuzzawork.it/DesktopModules/CATALooKStore/MakeThumbImage.aspx?ID=/Portals/0/IMGCATALOGO/424310.jpg&PORTALID=0)
(https://cdn4.berner.eu/cdn21/h6d/h09/8946495946782.jpg)
(https://cdn2.berner.eu/cdn21/h7d/h98/8943401074718.jpg)
https://shop.berner.eu/berner/it/category/957933/Bulloneria/Rivetti/Inserti+filettati (https://shop.berner.eu/berner/it/category/957933/Bulloneria/Rivetti/Inserti+filettati)
K
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Thank you thank you thank you ! ! !
YMW.
I've been stupid.
simply not possible!
your AG-7 should ship tomorrow, friday at the latest. looking for a suitable carton so that it survives the journey...
approximately how long after your design acceptance do you expect to have these in stock doug?
more out of curiosity: what are the dimensions of stout board mounting centers?
looking forward to building a 6V6/6K6 version.
--pete
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approximately how long after your design acceptance do you expect to have these in stock doug?
more out of curiosity: what are the dimensions of stout board mounting centers?
looking forward to building a 6V6/6K6 version.
--pete
Not sure yet Pete
Andy is going over my CAD drawings right now
Hopefully I may see one within the next couple weeks
The stout board board size and other is listed on this page
http://hoffmanamps.com/MyStore/catalog/TurretBoard.htm (http://hoffmanamps.com/MyStore/catalog/TurretBoard.htm)
There are no mounting holes, you put them where you want them
One in each corner should be fine for the Stout board
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1/4"-20tpi would be my choice. maybe stock both?
--pete
10-24 should be fine for this small chassis
I ordered a small bag of 1/4-20 also to check them out
One thing you have to take into consideration is how far is it from the center of the hole to the inside of the bend
Too large and it will hand out in the breeze
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Some new drawings with some changes
I added another set of OT mounting holes that will accept the 022905 Deluxe OT
My idea for using individual block off plates
I modified the chassis holes in the drawing below to have cutouts so that the 9 pin mounting hardware can fit through the 8 pin socket holes
The adapter has extensions so you can bolt the 9 pin socket in place with #4 screws and #4 keps nuts
I may be able to make those extensions a bit small and use #4 self tapping screws to mount the 9 pin sockets
The small diameter ring around the outside of the socket drops down into the 8 pin hole on the chassis
I made an adapter on my 3D printer this morning and mounted a 9 pin socket into it
I think this idea may work fine
I am sure Mojo would have no problems cutting the adapter in two separate pieces on their water jet or their laser cutting machines
Are you going to make these available by chance? I could use a few of these for sure.
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Are you going to make these available by chance? I could use a few of these for sure.
No, I drew up all the CAD plans over a weeks time and gave them to the manufacturer but told them to throw them all away :l2:
JK, see the post above
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5 bucks a piece for those adapters at Mojo but they do look well made.
I pay way less for them
Not sure If I will stock those or make my own
Whatever happens, I will have adapters to go with the chassis
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Have you never think to use deformable threaded nuts
they require a simply round hole ad exist also in steel and aluminium or an anti vibration rubber version
(http://www.scaramuzzawork.it/DesktopModules/CATALooKStore/MakeThumbImage.aspx?ID=/Portals/0/IMGCATALOGO/424310.jpg&PORTALID=0)
(https://cdn4.berner.eu/cdn21/h6d/h09/8946495946782.jpg)
(https://cdn2.berner.eu/cdn21/h7d/h98/8943401074718.jpg)
https://shop.berner.eu/berner/it/category/957933/Bulloneria/Rivetti/Inserti+filettati (https://shop.berner.eu/berner/it/category/957933/Bulloneria/Rivetti/Inserti+filettati)
K
This is what I am using lately and they work great! You can see them installed on my latest project here...
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(http://www.scaramuzzawork.it/DesktopModules/CATALooKStore/MakeThumbImage.aspx?ID=/Portals/0/IMGCATALOGO/424310.jpg&PORTALID=0)
This is what I am using lately and they work great! You can see them installed on my latest project here...
They look nice, I'll look into them
They are called rivet Nuts
How are you guys setting them?
If I sold them, I can't expect people to buy a special tool
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I got the 10-24 and 1/4-20 threaded clip nuts
The 10-24 may work ok
The 1/4-20 is a bit large to fit on the 5/8" wide flange of the chassis
I will get some rivet nuts and see how they work
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The rivet nuts do require an additional tool to install. That may not be acceptable for you as you mentioned. I bought a kit that included the tool and a couple hundred rivet nuts for $40.
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clip nuts can be replaced if stripped out. rivet nuts are a medieval technique replacement if stripped out... rivet nuts don't slide around though. just don't strip out the rivet nuts.
--pete
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Call me crazy, I'm like'in the look of those rivet nuts, but most of your customers wont need or want to buy the tool to set them with for a few builds.
Why should they strip out Pete? There's more threads in the rivet nuts then the clips. Not using a torque wrench on them to tighten them down. :laugh:
Brad :icon_biggrin:
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http://www.afi.cc/contentonly.aspx?file=images/vendors/Tinnerman.pdf (http://www.afi.cc/contentonly.aspx?file=images/vendors/Tinnerman.pdf)
if you're still considering 1/4-20 bolts and a U-nut - follow the above link - pg. 19, P/N 33945-1420 looks like the X & C dimensions will fit the 5/8" chassis lip.
https://estore.dbroberts.com/search_esb.asp?p=C33945-1420-4 (https://estore.dbroberts.com/search_esb.asp?p=C33945-1420-4)
url above shows to have 7500 in stock.
--pete
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Call me crazy, I'm like'in the look of those rivet nuts, but most of your customers wont need or want to buy the tool to set them with for a few builds.
Why should they strip out Pete? There's more threads in the rivet nuts then the clips. Not using a torque wrench on them to tighten them down. :laugh:
Brad :icon_biggrin:
no one here has ever stripped a nut or screw, right? :laugh:
--pete
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I build a tool for rivet nuts similar to this
(http://k-linetools.eu/images/D/tor6030.jpg)
but to install only few you really don't need a dedicated tool
(http://www.soundsfishy.net/misc/PictureA.png)
(http://www.soundsfishy.net/misc/PictureB.png)
(http://www.soundsfishy.net/misc/PictureC.png)
K
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Yeah, you do not need a special tool for rivet nuts as I figured out on you tube videos
I can contract the nut with an air tool fairly easily
I ordered some 10-24 thread rivet nuts to experiment with
10-24 is good enough for a small chassis like this
Steel rivet nuts that is
I understand aluminum rivet nuts may be way easier to strip and are more expensive
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Doug how many mm are 10-24 ?
4mm diameter are easy to strip, 5mm are a bit less, using a modified standard riveter like this build by my friend
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=-GFsllloy9w (https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=-GFsllloy9w)
6mm you can strip easy the way I posted in the previous post and I use only steel rivet nuts
K
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This page has conversions
http://www.broward-bolt.com/images/MetricConversionInformation.pdf (http://www.broward-bolt.com/images/MetricConversionInformation.pdf)
Stripping is easy if you use soft bolts or apply to much pressure
that's why I would go with steel rivet nuts instead of aluminum
#10 look to be about 4.86 mm
I like to use Stainless Truss head bolts
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So 10-24 = 5mm
5mm steel rivet nuts are not difficult to pull
K
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k
#10 major thread dia is .190" or ~4.82mm
1/4" major is .25' or ~6.35mm
--pete
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Thanks Pete
k
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no one here has ever stripped a nut or screw, right? :laugh:
Yes that's true, it can happen and does.
Brad :icon_biggrin:
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Riv-Nuts are prone to spin in the hole.
This is not supposed to happen if the chassis thickness is suitable, and the assembler gets a good snug fit. However I've spin a few on older sheet-metal items.
#10 thread in steel is good for at least 300 pounds pull. The chassis flange will bend all-to-heck before the screw breaks. But ignore that. Four such screws will hold 1,200 pounds. Assume a 30 pound chassis. The screws will not break with a 40 Gee shock/drop.
We might like a 50 Gee rating. (50 Gee is about what a human can survive with full body-straps, such as NASCAR racers; in an amp's life it would be a bad truck-wreck or a head-on fall off a tall stage.) Then four #10 can handle 24 pounds of chassis, which covers a lot of amps. And in fact you hope your amps never get close to 40 or 50 Gee. (Transformers and speakers shear-off.)
The chassis in this thread is essentially an "18 Watt" and probably sits under 24 pounds all-up. Four #10 is ample.
SVT should be using 1/4 bolts (and a much stronger flange).
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Riv-Nuts are prone to spin in the hole.
yes, that can happen
this one are more prone
(http://www.cardinalcomponents.com/images/rivnut%20round.gif)
this one are less
(http://rainbowboltsupply.com/images/riv_nuts.jpg)
(https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcT9XwSCQGpBp0tV4YNYF5MJ6aLtOazR897lFpIyAe-Yi7y7ByfT)
(https://encrypted-tbn2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcREX8vK_6ENj_Ai8Db6SD98LqsbgKGKR2KWidUbi3IfOj5WPHWW0A)
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if you need to remove, isn't difficult
(http://tentsshelters.tpub.com/TM-10-5411-224-14/img/TM-10-5411-224-14_69_1.jpg)
K
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I ordered these
Material: Steel-Yellow Zinc
Thread Size: 10-24 UNC
Grip Range: .020-.130
The aluminum chassis are .09 " thick so it is well withing the grip range of the rivet nut
They have the knurled edge so they should grip good
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With steel on aluminium the grip is really good
I think that you'll never have problems
Franco
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I updated the chassis images in post #1
http://el34world.com/Forum/index.php?topic=17502.msg175655#msg175655 (http://el34world.com/Forum/index.php?topic=17502.msg175655#msg175655)
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I'm a big fan of clip-nuts/u-nuts on a flange. different manufacturers have different shaped nuts, some with more depth clearance than others. Au-ve-co, Dorman, Hillman,etc..
The rivet nut seem to be charmer here, but the simplicity+strength of the slip-on u-nut has got to be the superior option here. no special tools required, no chance of a spin, EASY to replace.
I think rivet nuts earn their place in the middle of a piece of sheet metal, not on a flange.
On the bottom side, oval screws with finish washers.
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I'll have both in stock
The 10-24 clip nuts and the 10-24 rivet nuts
people can choose what they want and it's up to them to do the installation, so I am out of the loop :icon_biggrin:
I like the clip nuts also for simplicity
It will take someone a bunch more labor to install the rivet nuts
You still have to drill the mounting hole out to a larger size with the clip nuts
If you don't, the bent spring part makes the chassis sit way up in the air
I drilled a 3/8 inch hole and the springs fell right into the hole
Here's an image of a clip nut slid onto .0625" thick garolite - Top image
The bottom image is the clip nut dropped down into a 3/8 inch hole
So in the top image, the clip nut would hold the chassis up in the air quite a bit
Keep in mind also that the chassis will be .09 inch thick aluminum
I like using Truss head bolts because of the oversized head
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I got the 10-24 Rivnuts in today
I installed one in some .09 think aluminum along side a clip nut
I thought I would like the clip nut better, but now I have switched over to liking the rivnut better
The rivnut was harder to install, but it is locked down tight once it was installed
i had to grab the rivnut with a pair of vise grips to keep it from spinning while you crank down on it with a 10-24 bolt
The rivnut needed a 19/64 inch hole
The clip nut needed 11/32 inch hole in order to make it sit flush against the surface
Here's a pic of both, side by side
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> i had to grab the rivnut with a pair of vise grips to keep it from spinning while you crank down on it with a 10-24 bolt
You probably shouldn't do it that way; even the least little spin will weaken the serrations which prevent spin in use.
EL34 - No, I only grabbed the smooth upper part with a vise grip, not the lower serrated section.
You can see one of the teeth marks
The only only way to keep it from spinning is to use a large levered tool that pulls the bolt head like a pop rivet gun would
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Crap, I hit modify by accident on your post above PRR
I grabbed the upped smooth section only with the vise grip
Here is a close up
You can see the tooth mark where I grabbed it with a vise grip to keep it from spinning while I cranked down on it with a hex head bolt
It collapsed fairly easy once I had a grip on it with the vise grip
The correct tool would only pull the bolt head like a pop rivet gun, but I don't have that tool
Most people that install these will not have the real tool either
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hey Doug how about using a small diameter hex bolt, two washers and a nut and use it as a press? instead of vise grips and crushing part., put part on chassis, put bolt thru and tighten up.
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I don't think I explained how I installed the rivnut very well
I did use a bolt and washer to compress the rivnut
I only used the vise grips to hold it to keep it from spinning.
You can't turn a wrench without the rivnut wanting to spin
Once the rivnut compresses a tiny bit, you don't need the vise grips any more because the rivnut starts to dig into the metal
Here's a picture showing how I compressed the rivnut
The allen head bolt was fine and the allen wrench had plenty of power
A hex head bolt and wrench or socket would have even more power
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I see, when you said collapsed I thought the thread part ovaled and it was ruined.
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I see, when you said collapsed I thought the thread part ovaled and it was ruined.
The threaded section is pretty beefy, it would be hard to oval out or squish the threaded section
The serrated section is thinner and that is why it mushrooms out when pulled by a tool
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doug, would you kindly provide the PT end-bell cutout dimensions please?
thanks,
--pete
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Hi Pete,
It is cut out for the 18 Watt PT that I sell
It's the same hole size cutout as the 18 watt chassis I sell
2.625" x 2.5"
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Hi Pete,
It is cut out for the 18 Watt PT that I sell
It's the same hole size cutout as the 18 watt chassis I sell
2.625" x 2.5"
cool. looks like the vibrolux/tremolux PT and the hammond 273CZ/373CZ PT will fit. we can get 400-440V B+ in a build.
--pete
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Cool, I did not know that
Thanks for that info
-
Ciao Doug
I would like to know if you think is better to have the small wings of the chassis (where you fix the nuts) bended outside of the chassis or inside the chassis ?
In your plan the wings are outside, but have you considered also inside bending ?
Thanks
Franco
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Hi Franco,
Mojo likes to have the flanges bend out on their chassis and since they are making it to sell I went along with it
On a small chassis like this there would not be any room to bend inward and have the bolts clear parts
The bolts and rivnuts would be an issue
-
I understand
Thanks
Franco
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Cool, I did not know that
Thanks for that info
Hi Pete,
It is cut out for the 18 Watt PT that I sell
It's the same hole size cutout as the 18 watt chassis I sell
2.625" x 2.5"
cool. looks like the vibrolux/tremolux PT and the hammond 273CZ/373CZ PT will fit. we can get 400-440V B+ in a build.
--pete
bad news: :-(
i confirmed a pair of vibrolux/transformers i have in stock with my calipers: the 2.5" dimension works but the 2.625" dimension does not. the hole will need to be opened up about 85 thousandths. i measured transformers from two suppliers, one is a mag comp from triode elec., the other is a hammond 290CX. to make either fit, one option is to carefully remove the inner end bell, however, as we've leaned from past efforts removing the case bolts, that it can have disastrous consequences unless you apply heat.
i think relieving the opening would be the route to take. i have not ordered a hammond 273CZ yet, but i'm not too sure about that part either since the specs state 2.06" x 2.685" +/- .063". i'm betting hammond used the same end bells as the 290CX part which measures 2.15" x 2.710".
personally, i can do this on my vertical mill, but others may find it more of a daunting task. knocking out 85 thousandths (40 thousandths/side) with a file, nibbler, or dremel isn't going to be trivial.
sorry if lifted anyone's hopes, self included, but it appears the none of parts i mentioned initially will install without some form of additional fitment work. my apologies.
--pete
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If the chassis is aluminum, it might give that much when you draw the bolts down. In fact, if you made a small cut at one end (at the corners) where you need the space, I'm almost sure it would, it would let the alum. bend. Drill a small pilot hole to keep the cut from becoming crack?
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We will have to wait and see what the actual hole size is once I get one here
I am having Andy make me 10 of these with no holes
He said that is not a problem
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We will have to wait and see what the actual hole size is once I get one here
I am having Andy make me 10 of these with no holes
He said that is not a problem
that's great news. are all 10 spoken for? the blanks would then allow us to use X mount type iron. perhaps as revision in the future, would you be willing to open up the PT opening to accommodate the vibrolux/tremolux PT?
attached is a feeble attempt to recreate the machined version. not sure about exact placement for things like the PT location, i rough estimated tracing off the oblique drawings you posted earlier.
the blue can cap is a feeble representation of the lay-down cap inside the chassis: i'm too tired and lazy to create the object's horizontal view now. i'll fix that in the next rev.
--pete
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that's great news. are all 10 spoken for?
No, I have not told anyone until just now
would you be willing to open up the PT opening to accommodate the vibrolux/tremolux PT?
I doubt it because Mojo is selling them also.
It's a joint venture and so both parties have to agree on the specs
This is why it works for me. I don't have to contract someone to make 100 or more chassis and tie up all that money
Mojo makes them and sells them to me and they will also sell them on their web site
I can just have a few on hand and I can get them in one day if I need more.
Mojo is in NC also
Not only that, I can sell them cheaper than what Mojo sells them on their web site to the general public because they give me a huge discounted price
I get an much better price than the other wholesale accounts do
Anytime you can not tie up you money in business, it's a good thing
-
Know the selling price yet?
-
No, I don't have an cost figure yet
Still waiting on Andy to work that out
I want to sell these as cheaply as is possible
-
drums fingers on lab bench... donde estan sr. douglas? :icon_biggrin:
i have all this crap on the breadboard i'd really like to stuff in a new chassis instead of the breadboard parts bins... hint, hint. :laugh:
--pete
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Got an email from Andy yesterday
He is making 50 chassis just to start off with and he is ready to go on that deal
I am taking 25 of the chassis and of those 25 I am having 10 blank ones made
I am double checking with Andy on the prices and waiting for a reply
I will do a initial offering that is really good to you guys
So far it looks like the chassis with holes will be cheaper than chassis at other sites sell with no holes?
Waiting to see what the blank chassis cost will be and then I'll be able to quote a selling price
-
cool. thanks for the update.
--pete
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:thumbsup:
-
Woo-hoo!
<<<< sound of soldering iron heating up >>>>
:happy2:
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For those wondering what PT they might want to use for this chassis. I have a spare 290cax and I took Measurements, I don't think will work, to small. Add that to list of what may/ may not work
-
And that's exactly why I prefer a blank chassis. When you get a pre-punched chassis with a big rectangle hole cut for a particular laydown style transformer, you're kinda locked into using that particular transformer. There may be several transformers that will fit, but you really limit your choices. I also prefer standup transformers for ease of mounting and the extra room they provide under the chassis.
-
And that's exactly why I prefer a blank chassis. When you get a pre-punched chassis with a big rectangle hole cut for a particular laydown style transformer, you're kinda locked into using that particular transformer. There may be several transformers that will fit, but you really limit your choices. I also prefer standup transformers for ease of mounting and the extra room they provide under the chassis.
+1
I hope the price is right. I want a few of the blanks myself. I am thinking they will be cheap enough where I don't have to make smaller boxes anymore.
-
I found out that the blanks are costing me the same as the ones with holes.
Because they are cut by a laser on large sheets, there is no human labor involved to cut the sheets while they are flat.
Both chassis get and exterior cutout and then the holes only take a minute to cut
The human labor is in the bending of the chassis and both chassis have to be bent
I will do an introductory price to forum members at $39 per chassis, holes or no holes
Better get dibs on the no holes version because Andy is only doing 10 of them.
-
I would like to get 2 with the pre-drilled holes, please.
Do I watch your catalog and wait to order, or can I pre-order them now?
Thanks, Ken
-
I want 2 with no holes and 2 with holes. 1 set of adapter plates for the power tubes.
My dibs!
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Ok, we will keep tabs here
8 with no holes left
Plenty of chassis with holes
-
one blank and 2 punched for me please...
--pete
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7 blank left
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I'll take one with holes.
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I'll take two with NO holes please? Thanks Doug.
Joe
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5 blanks left
thanks all
-
Ill take one with holes please
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doug change my reservation please...
2 blank and 2 punched.
thanks,
--pete
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I would like to get 2 with the pre-drilled holes, please.
Do I watch your catalog and wait to order, or can I pre-order them now?
Thanks, Ken
Hi ken,
I'll announce here when I have them in and ready to order
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4 blanks left if I have counted right
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4 blanks left if I have counted right
I think you are right on count, but what I need some other stuff. Should I just order it at the same time from you? :icon_biggrin:
You know when chassis are needed so are turrets, eyelets. BTW, I have never used it, but a LOT of folks really like your 18 watt iron.
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Thanks Ed
The 18 watt iron is Heyboer iron and I get them from Mojo
Mojo is the major Heyboer distributor
I sell them at the 100 piece price, so it is cheaper to buy Mojo stuff from me than it is on the Mojo web site
I have a deal worked out with them on that
The same thing goes with anything you see on the Mojo site
I can get it for you guys way cheaper
-
:sad: :sad: :sad:
I really hope you open a branch on this side of the pond
or Italy change the policies of import from the USA
Franco
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I'd like to get one with holes.
The same thing goes with anything you see on the Mojo site
I can get it for you guys way cheaper
I also noticed that there's a couple things on the Mojo site I need too...nothing real expensive, but why pay shipping twice if I don't have to ....are the chassis getting drop shipped from Mojo?
How should I proceed?.....I don't have a ton of stuff to order, but I figure it might look good if they see buisness coming from here..... I have never ordered from them before now.
-
:sad: :sad: :sad:
I really hope you open a branch on this side of the pond
or Italy change the policies of import from the USA
Franco
I send stuff to Europe and the Uk all the time
But I don't remember having anything going to Italy
Must have some tough import duties
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I'd like to get one with holes.
The same thing goes with anything you see on the Mojo site
I can get it for you guys way cheaper
I also noticed that there's a couple things on the Mojo site I need too...nothing real expensive, but why pay shipping twice if I don't have to ....are the chassis getting drop shipped from Mojo?
How should I proceed?.....I don't have a ton of stuff to order, but I figure it might look good if they see buisness coming from here..... I have never ordered from them before now.
Just give me the Mojo items numbers and I will add them to my weekly Mojo stock order
Use their 100 piece pricing as your price
If they are small items, the shipping will not be much if you pick first class shipping
no need to wait for the chassis to arrive here
-
I'd like to get one with holes.
The same thing goes with anything you see on the Mojo site
I can get it for you guys way cheaper
I also noticed that there's a couple things on the Mojo site I need too...nothing real expensive, but why pay shipping twice if I don't have to ....are the chassis getting drop shipped from Mojo?
How should I proceed?.....I don't have a ton of stuff to order, but I figure it might look good if they see buisness coming from here..... I have never ordered from them before now.
Just give me the Mojo items numbers and I will add them to my weekly Mojo stock order
Use their 100 piece pricing as your price
If they are small items, the shipping will not be much if you pick first class shipping
no need to wait for the chassis to arrive here
Doug,
I get confused easily so I need to ask. If I want to get something from Mojo I can include the number on a order to you and you will sell it at the 100 count price?
Is it limited to certain things or anything? No woodshop? Correct. Guitar parts?
Just amp parts
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I'll have to ask Andy about cabinets
I think it applies any of the items they they have in stock and are ready to ship that day.
Cabinets and stuff are a different shop and have a long wait before they are done
yes, you can email me with the mojo item numbers but if I don't already stock it, I would have to put it on my next stock order to save some shipping cost.
Of course I can just order it that day and get it coming but I would have to tack on the shipping cost
Other wise, I won't add extra shipping cost if I can do it as part of my regular weekly stock order
Mojo is in NC also and I get stuff in one to two days from them, so the shipping timeframe is very short
-
EL34,
Do you have a DXF file of the chassis you are making. The flat inside, front and back?
-
Andy at Mojo has that
That is the property of Mojo and something he does not give out because of all the work he put into it
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Andy at Mojo has that
That is the property of Mojo and something he does not give out because of all the work he put into it
That is cool. I usually can get the PDF from them and they normally do not secure it. I can make an editable from that.
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I like it. And if I were to build a 6V6 amp I'd consider buying it. But, even though the 9pin socket adaptor is a good idea, as far as only having to stock one type of chassis, there is something to be said about the clean look of not having to use an adaptor. To me that would always bug me, having to cover up an oversized hole with an adaptor. Personally I'd like a chassis with 9pin socket holes, because then I could drill them out bigger if I decide to go with 6V6. But that's just me some people wouldn't want to have to deal with that and don't mind an adaptor.
I built an amp with a 6V6 and decided to swap it for another tube and had to use an adaptor. It urks me every time I look at it, It just looks wrong. I see it as covering up a miskate. I don't think I ever get used to it and was actually considering redoing the chassis for a while. There's nothing wrong with it, I just personally don't like it.
I dunno I guess I like the cleaner look of no adaptors, but if you're only going with one style I guess that'd be the way to go. Honestly, I might buy it for a 6V6 amp but I would not buy it for a EL84 amp.
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"Personally I'd like a chassis with 9pin socket holes, because then I could drill them out bigger if I decide to go with 6V6."
That's only part of the reason I want no holes for mine. Everyone should own a step drill bit anyways. After all, this chassis is for an EL84 based amp so the holes should be sized for those to begin with.
-
It's taking a long time for Andy to get the chassis
He says that I should have them around the 10th of November
I'll post back when I have an exact arrival time
-
Alright, I have iron and parts. What is up, you guys still mining?
-
Supposedly Friday or today is the date they arrive at Mojo
I emailed Andy to see what's up
I'll post back when he replies
-
Andy was away for a few days.
I just got an email from him.
He said he was going to have a firm ship date for me later today
Cross your fingers
-
Email from Andy
Ok we will be shipping to you either Friday or Monday.
-
Andy says the chassis are shipping today
If they really do ship today, they would be here tomorrow
I'll keep you guys poste
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was the mojotone TW-35 output xformer on the ship list? or should we do that on a separate invoice?
--pete
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No, Andrew is going to ship it to me free as soon as he gets it.
I don't think they sell many of those
You may have gotten the only one they had on the shelf
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Got the order, thanks Pete
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No, Andrew is going to ship it to me free as soon as he gets it.
I don't think they sell many of those
You may have gotten the only one they had on the shelf
too bad - it's an excellent sounding OT. i highly recommend it for Deluxe and "Super" Deluxe type amps.
you're welcome!
--pete
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Andrew said that Heyboer is shipping them some
Not sure what the hold up is
Probably was not on the shelf and heyboer has to wind them
-
Got the order Ken Moon, thanks
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Got the order Doug- terminalgs, thanks
-
I got the UPS tracking number from Mojo. The chassis will be here today
I just added the chassis to the top my chassis page here at the special forum price of $39
http://hoffmanamps.com/MyStore/catalog/parts6.htm (http://hoffmanamps.com/MyStore/catalog/parts6.htm)
I will be upping the price as soon as you guys get yours
I don't have any pictures yet
I'll have it all set up better once I get the chassis here, but for now this will let you get them ordered
The parts number is
ChassisStout1 for the blank chassis
ChassisStout2 for the punched chassis
This is the list I have so far so I can keep track of who wanted what
I received orders from
2 blank - 2 punched - Dummyload
2 blank - jojokeo
1 punched - terminalgs
2 punched - Ken Moon
2 blank - 2 punched - Ed Chambley
I have not received orders from
1 punched - lego4040
-------------------------------
If I have the counts correct
6 blanks sold
8 punched sold
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Damn Douglas, you better get me out of the bolded area. What ya gonna do is someone doesn't pay, you gonna send your Hillbilly Hitman?
-
No bold for you
No one comes to the door, you just loose the $39 initial offering price :icon_biggrin:
Probably gonna move the price up to $45 later today
-
Pics and info on the new chassis here
http://el34world.com/Forum/index.php?topic=17858.0 (http://el34world.com/Forum/index.php?topic=17858.0)
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... didn't notice the post until I went looking for the old "New chassis plans" thread
Order IN
Damn Douglas, you better get me out of the bolded area.
Don't be so sensitive....geeeeezzzz
some of us didn't get to be bold.... :cry:
-
Payday tomorrow for me, will get it in
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... didn't notice the post until I went looking for the old "New chassis plans" thread
Order IN
Damn Douglas, you better get me out of the bolded area.
Don't be so sensitive....geeeeezzzz
some of us didn't get to be bold.... :cry:
Alright, have your fun whilst you can. I remember everything. :cussing:
-
Lego, add a note to your order to remind me about the special price
They are listed at $45 now
-
:thumbsup:
-
package received today. quality stuff. thank you!
i measured the temolux PT today. looks like i need to shave about 75-80mils total to fit: 100mils to clear any tolerance variations.
doug, any word on that tw35 OT from mojo?
thanks,
--pete
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Early Xmas :icon_biggrin:
Thanks, Doug - now all I need are a couple of 18watt PTs :headbang:
(http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t346/jaxmoons04/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-11/IMG_20141121_153223.jpg)
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Got em in stock ken and discounted
http://hoffmanamps.com/MyStore/catalog/parts1.htm (http://hoffmanamps.com/MyStore/catalog/parts1.htm)
Pete,
I'll email Andrew at mojo again
-
My order arrived today. Great chassis. I'll be ordering another!
-
Let the projects begin
I'll be doing a Stout in mine and document that build
-
Ciao Doug
At DIYItalia we are starting to draw a layout for the board of this amp
http://www.bensykora.com/7cylinder.html (http://www.bensykora.com/7cylinder.html)
(http://www.bensykora.com/7cylinder/7cylinder_final.gif)
that will be based on your chassis, it seems it will be a perfect fit (better than original)
Franco
p.s.: I sent a pair of Vox schematic (after the refiniment of Vox AC15 schematics, did you received it ?)
-
Thanks Franco
Yes I uploaded your Vox schematics
-
Hey Doug,
I been following along here and on FB... Did I miss the intro price? I'd like a punched chassis, and I'll order some parts too, to save on shipping...
Ralph
-
Hi Ralph,
The punched chassis are all gone, I'll have more in a week at the $45 price
The special deal was only for those that stated what they wanted before they arrived
I did not make anything on those special deal chassis
I have to pay the bills on any sold from now on
-
no worries, gives me a chance to figger what parts I need without being in a rush..
Thanks!
-
Here's a pic of the new chassis with 18watt iron (the choke is a Mojo 6V6 amp choke, it looks just like the Weber W02299. The Heyboer HY02299 (open coil, 9H/120mA/125R) will also fit the mounting holes.
(http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t346/jaxmoons04/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-11/IMG_20141126_163347.jpg)
I'm going to start with a 6V6 version of the DaisyCutter by Randy Fay (Phaez Amps), with the obvious changes to use 6V6s:
(http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t346/jaxmoons04/18w_daisycutter_100422.jpg)
I'll be putting it in a heads-up combo similar to this old prototype cab:
(http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t346/jaxmoons04/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-11/IMG_20141126_165832.jpg)
with cosmetics that look something like this (different front panel of course)
(http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t346/jaxmoons04/saltymooncomboconcept.jpg)
I'll post progress (and probably some questions) in a separate build log post.
Happy Thanksgiving, all :icon_biggrin:
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That's a pretty cool and unique design you've got there Ken!
Nice use of the new chassis, and really nice end result on the original amp....
Thanks for the schematic.
Just a thought.....that third octal hole you're about to cover up would make a nice spot for a 50/50 cap can.
-
Good idea! I could put the 2 sides of the 50/50 in parallel for a 100uF reservoir, and easily open up one side to see if I can hear any difference between 50uF and 100uF.
Or, I could use a 50uF/Choke/50uF setup, and put the preamp B+ filters downstream, closer to the preamp tubes.
I might even be able to put the choke on the inside of the chassis, in the spot Doug uses for the cap can on the Stout. That would keep the PT/rectifier/reservoir cap loop super small.
This chassis has a lot of possibilities - my thanks to Doug for making them available :worthy1:
-
They are pretty cool
Glad you guys are off and running with ideas for them
here's what I did with mine
I fired it up yesterday and it sounds really good through my 4x12 marshall cab
-
that is reeeeally coool :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
Franco
-
nice looking amp doug!
--pete
-
Thanks guys
I'll be taking some good close up pics and posting the build info soon
-
Here's a pic of the new chassis with 18watt iron (the choke is a Mojo 6V6 amp choke, it looks just like the Weber W02299. The Heyboer HY02299 (open coil, 9H/120mA/125R) will also fit the mounting holes.
I'm going to start with a 6V6 version of the DaisyCutter by Randy Fay (Phaez Amps), with the obvious changes to use 6V6s:
I'll be putting it in a heads-up combo similar to this old prototype cab:
with cosmetics that look something like this (different front panel of course)
I'll post progress (and probably some questions) in a separate build log post.
Happy Thanksgiving, all :icon_biggrin:
Hey Mr. Moon! Start your build thread already! I want to ask you some questions about this without hijacking this thread! :laugh:
I am re-purposing a Peavey Classic 30 and was thinking about putting a 6V6 DaisyCutter in there instead. But I really like your cabinet design and this chassis would be perfect (unless I decide to do a two-channel design instead.)
-
The lamp hole on these chassis was designed for the 120 vac neon lamp assembly on this page
http://hoffmanamps.com/MyStore/catalog/parts20.htm (http://hoffmanamps.com/MyStore/catalog/parts20.htm)
(http://hoffmanamps.com/MyStore/catalog/images/IMG_2309.jpg)
I just found out that after I installed the 40x20x20x20 cap can in my chassis that there is not any room for that lamp
It is too long by about .25 inch
I did not think to check the depth on those neon lamps
I wanted to make the chassis hole small so it would accept the nice chrome LED I sell but Andy wanted it larger so they could use the Neon lamp
I don't have a lamp option at this time
(http://hoffmanamps.com/MyStore/catalog/images/IMG_2308.jpg)
I may cut one of the Neon lamps in half to make it short and then pop in one of the clear led's I sell
(http://hoffmanamps.com/MyStore/catalog/images/IMG_6130.jpg)
I'll be messing with that today
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A dremel tool a dn a just a few minutes I converted the 120vac neon lamp to a LED
I cut it shorter right where the threads end
Pulled out the two metal connector tabs
Unsoldered the neon lamp and resistor and soldered my LED to the connector tabs :)
I used this LED
(http://hoffmanamps.com/MyStore/catalog/images/IMG_6130.jpg)
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we may have another LED option. i measured .9in from inside to touching a 50/50 cap in my boilermaker project.
http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/109/608-3x31-1xx-183773.pdf (http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/109/608-3x31-1xx-183773.pdf)
the actual part no. that i think will fit. 3 bux each and they have 300+ in stock. the part no. below has the red LED.
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Dialight/608-3231-110F/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsUguuR3b6UZjrITrX0AWF0W4el%2fApZ89g%3d (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Dialight/608-3231-110F/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsUguuR3b6UZjrITrX0AWF0W4el%2fApZ89g%3d)
it has a .315" dia. M8 threads so it'll be a bit loose in the .375in hole, but will fit depth wise and the outer ring is .430in. so an 8mm flat washer will keep it more or less centered and secure.
it's .55in so it'll clear the cap. you'll have to bend and shrink tube the leads.
they're 2V DC LEDs so you'll need 180ohm resistor to the filament string. i needed some 250R 25W resistors and other odds and ends, so i'll order a couple and report back.
--pete
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Mine is hooked up and works great
I used 180 ohm resistor and the brightness is perfect
It's attached at V4 heater connections
I prefer running a low voltage LEd than 120vac neon lamp
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The next batch of Stout chassis will have a few hole changes
The cap bracket will be rotated 180 and moved back towards the power tranny
This makes room for the 120vas pilot lamp
The lamp hole will be slightly larger at .380 inches instead of .375 inches
I had to open up the hole just a tad to make my lamp fit
The pot holes will be spaced out at 1.375 inches instead of 1.25 inches
I found that some of the longer chicken head knobs were having beak collisions :icon_biggrin:
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The next batch of Stout chassis will have a few hole changes
The cap bracket will be rotated 180 and moved back towards the power tranny
This makes room for the 120vas pilot lamp
The lamp hole will be slightly larger at .380 inches instead of .375 inches
I had to open up the hole just a tad to make my lamp fit
The pot holes will be spaced out at 1.375 inches instead of 1.25 inches
I found that some of the longer chicken head knobs were having beak collisions :icon_biggrin:
please consider opening the power tranny hole 90-100mils? that way we cane use 400-450V iron in it without modifying. please see the boilermaker thread. since the 35W 6K6 tremolux OT fits, shouldn't the PT as well?
--pete
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I found that some of the longer chicken head knobs were having beak collisions
i had a list of minor changes. that was one as well...
the davies molding black chikkin haids will fit this chassis. they are expensive. i have 6 on hand and the amp looks better with chikkin haids.
PM if you want the allied part number.
--pete
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I had a bunch of cream colored Davies Chicken heads left over from the old days
I am using them on my build
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please consider adding 2 holes to the rightmost octal opening so a can cap can be installed there instead of an octal socket?
thank you,
--pete
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please consider opening the power tranny hole 90-100mils? that way we cane use 400-450V iron in it without modifying. please see the boilermaker thread. since the 35W 6K6 tremolux OT fits, shouldn't the PT as well?
Give me the exact opening measurements you need
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please consider adding 2 holes to the rightmost octal opening so a can cap can be installed there instead of an octal socket?
What cap fits in an octal hole?
Exactly what bracket hole spacing with the cap mounted in the bracket?
center to center
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the F&T you sell fits nice.
--pete
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Ok, the 16, 32 and 50 FT are all the same size and I have the brackets here so I can get the hole spacing on those
Let me know the exact hole size for the tranny
If it is one of the trannys I stock I can get the measurement from that?
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the cap clamp tap holes need to be 1.75" center to center.
i just measured .9" from hole center to clamp tab hole. please see pics.
--pete
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Ok, the 16, 32 and 50 FT are all the same size and I have the brackets here so I can get the hole spacing on those
Let me know the exact hole size for the tranny
If it os one of the trannys I stock I can get the measurement from that?
i'm using a 100/100 there now. the 50/50 is inside.
i drilled an inset hole so the smaller 1.375" can cap clamp would fit.
that was the last thing on the punch list i had: add a 3rd hole for the inside can cap so you have the option of using the 1.375" 16/16, 32/32, or 50/50 can caps you sell. :-)
--pete
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I get 1.9 inches center to center on the Ft cap brackets
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for the can cap i used 1.8 - your measurement is closer. you can use 1.75" and the nuts will be closer to center. best to have them at 1.8-9 closer to center if you have to change a cap, then you don't have to remove one nut.
for the transformer:
current measurements are 2.5" x 2.625"
recommending 2.5" x 2.725" with this size the mag comp (AES PT-022723), hammond 290CX, and hammond 273CZ fit.
i don't have a heyboer equivalent part (MOJO758) to check. if you'll order one for me, i'll check it just to be sure. just send me an invoice, assuming that you're ok with that, then please ship the whole works when the MOJO791 OT arrives. i'd rather have all iron sourced from one vendor.
--pete
--pete
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I just did a Mojo order this morning.
Probably will not do another till next week
Your Mojo 791 should be here this afternoon
So hold the 791 and the 3 JJ caps till next week?
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sure. please hold the order.
--pete
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doug, please consider one last change request. see pic. this is so that the OT wires can up from the bottom of the chassis between selector and the output jacks to lay in on the switch from bottom to top.
--pete
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It may be that what I'm about to say sounds a bit odd
but you could make a big hole (with 4 small holes near the corners) in correspondence to where it needs to be mounted the PT, and then, as it was did for the octal holes, prepare some reduction flange for various types of transformers and also a plate without hole to mount transformers not laydown?
This would make the chassis be usable with many different PT
Franco
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doug, please consider one last change request. see pic. this is so that the OT wires can up from the bottom of the chassis between selector and the output jacks to lay in on the switch from bottom to top.
--pete
Hi Pete,
I don't get what you are saying?
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increase the distance between the output jacks and z selector switch.
--pete
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So move the two speaker jacks 3/8 inch farther away from the rotary impedance selector
I was thinking that the impedance selector should be where the last jack is which would give you more wiring room
And it would be shorter distance and more in line with the OT wires
And maybe move it a bit farther away from the 2nd speaker jack
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that's even better. :-)
--pete
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Just got my chassis blank in! VERY nice chassis & well made. Thanks Doug! Quick service, good project.
Going to turn this into the PreAmp project.
I definitely can see this chassis being a great platform for all kinds of builds! Would be very cool for a HoSo56 with 6BM8 tubes.
With respect, Tubenit
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Cool,
Lets get some projects going in this chassis other than my 18 Watt Stout
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if you don't wish to construct a pilot light, these parts fit without any additional machining.
1) lamp housing - .375" - dialight p/n 508-7438-504 (https://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=508-7438-504virtualkey64500000virtualkey645-508-7438-504)
2) 5V RED LED cartridge - dialight p/n 507-4757-3331-500F (https://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=507-4757-3331-500Fvirtualkey64500000virtualkey645-507-4757-333150F)
pics below of installed part.
--pete
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I got some of these. 5 for $15. Can use 6v bulbs.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/INDICATOR-LAMP-PILOT-LIGHT-Lot-of-5-RED-WHITE-Small-Panel-Mount-w-Bulb-NOS-/201238056518?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item2edab90e46 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/INDICATOR-LAMP-PILOT-LIGHT-Lot-of-5-RED-WHITE-Small-Panel-Mount-w-Bulb-NOS-/201238056518?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item2edab90e46)
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I got some of these. 5 for $15.
They're a bit nipple'y
Makes me want to put 2 on one faceplate,, for some reason :undecided:
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I got some of these. 5 for $15.
They're a bit nipple'y
Makes me want to put 2 on one faceplate,, for some reason :undecided:
Design it right and you may get a winner. I prefer the fender style jewel and since I build cabinets for my amps I will probably put the cap on the outside and save some room. 2 of the chassis I got are for preamp builds anyway.
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Will the Fender style jewel screw into those sockets if you wanted to get rid of the the excited stripper look?
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Will the Fender style jewel screw into those sockets if you wanted to get rid of the the excited stripper look?
Have to drill it some more. No problem. I got the chassis because they really are a good size to build projects in. On a lot of the small jobs I am doing I am just using the LED in the metal ring running it off the heaters. Seems like a simple thing and the white LED is good and bright.
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On a lot of the small jobs I am doing I am just using the LED in the metal ring running it off the heaters. Seems like a simple thing and the white LED is good and bright.
Yeah,,,on that one metal amp I used a red led to bias the first stage and panel mounted it as a standby/power indicator, that would warm up for a split-second once you took the amp out of standby, and let you know when it was time to play.
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other pilot light options for the rev. 1 stout chassis. i've been looking for another option for a smaller part (3/8" part sticks out too far and costs 17 bux for LED cartridge and housing.
no drilling, no fuss, inside cap clears with room to spare. use the alpha pot bushings that doug sells - use 2 bushings per lamp.
two parts tested - lumex metal bezel LED and dialight plastic bezel LED - both sourced from mouser. both are under 5 bux.
see part numbers in the pics - other color LEDs are available, search mouser online for the same part family. be sure to order 2-5V parts if you're going to tap the 6.3V filament supply.
--pete
PICS FOR DIALIGHT PART BELOW - LUMEX PART IN NEXT POST.
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FOR THE LUMEX METAL PART
--pete
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Those look nice
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Those look nice
thanks, i figured you'd like the metal one. :wink:
--pete
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Yeah, I like the chrome bezel LED's
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On the next batch of Stout chassis I think it would be a good idea to add another pre amp tube hole in addition to the other changes we came up with a while back.
What says youz guys?
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that would be cool.
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On the next batch of Stout chassis I think it would be a good idea to add another pre amp tube hole in addition to the other changes we came up with a while back.
What says youz guys?
Great idea...
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The new changes since version one are
Extra holes in last tube socket for Cap clamp bracket
One more 9 pin socket hole
Larger PT hole for Tremolux sized PT with endbell
Pot holes spaced further apart for longer chicken head knobs
One more pot hole added
Cap clamp hole moved back so you can use Marshall style pilot light
Rotary Impedance selector hole moved to last hole after speaker jacks
Pilot light hole diameter increased to .38 inches
I think that was all the changes
Now you guys have to help use up the existing supply
I put them on sale again on this page for $38
http://hoffmanamps.com/MyStore/catalog/Chassis.htm (http://hoffmanamps.com/MyStore/catalog/Chassis.htm)
This is what the new version top would look like
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That's fantastic! EXCELLENT improvements.
Thanks, Tubenit
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Thanks Jeff
If you guys can think of any others, now is the time to do it
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If you guys can think of any others, now is the time to do it
Looks more "universal" now but IMHO I don't quite get why smaller EL84 holes aren't utilized first? Would it not be easy to open the holes up for octals if one would want to got that route?
I always seem to have a need for at least one switch on the front panel for purposes of optional biasing, bypassing, cascading, etc...
The only thing missing now is the bottle opener on the back panel and a hook for a shoe horn for anyone that fills all those holes with pots & sockets? :l2:
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The average guy cannot make big holes in chassis
Not sure how you would even do it when there is already a big hole there to begin with
Hole saws rely on using a small pilot bit to keep them centered
A greenlee hole punch that large is expensive
It's much easier to block off the 8 pin holes with my adapters
They work great and don't cost much
And also, I am seeing that more people are building with 6V6's than EL84's
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You just use a step bit but I understand where you're coming from. So in that light I think you should make one more adapter in case one would want to use EL90/6BQ5 or other 7-pin power tubes?
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I don't make the adapters
I get them from mojo
Those 3 are the only adapters they make
Not sure if anyone out there makes such a thing?
Anywho, this helps people that do not have fabricating skills and there are allot more of those people than those that do have fabricating skills
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You just use a step bit but I understand where you're coming from. So in that light I think you should make one more adapter in case one would want to use EL90/6BQ5 or other 7-pin power tubes?
6bq5 is noval.
6aq5 is 7 pin.
ytpo :icon_biggrin:
--pete
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NEW stout chassis PT compatibility.
18WPT - Hoffman 18W PT - 580VCT @ 120mA 5V/6V@ 2A 6.3VCT @ 3A| 120/240V pri
758 - Hoffman/Mojo - 710VCT @ 300mA 50V bias 5V @ 3A 6.3V @ 3.75A | 120V pri
758EX+ - Hoffman/Mojo; Export version of 758 - same as 758 above | 100/120/220/230/240V pri
290MX^ - Hammond AC30 reissue - 550VCT @ 230mA 5VCT @ 3A 6.3VCT @ 6A | 120/240V pri
290CX - Hammond Fender BF Vibrolux; 125P26A clone - 650VCT @ 207mA 50V bias 5V @ 3A 6.3V @ 4A | 120V pri
291CX+ - Hammond Fender BF Vibrolux; 125P26A clone - same as 290CX above made w/ M6 plate for cooler opr.
290CEX+ - Hammond Fender BF Vibrolux; 125P31A clone - same as 290CX above | 240V pri
291CEX+ - Hammond Fender BF Vibrolux; 125P31A clone - same as 290CX above made w/ M6 plate for cooler opr. | 240V pri
290UX^ - Hammond Fender Hot Rod Deluxe - 308V @ 250mA 39V @ 250mA 6.6V @ 3.75A | 117V pri
290LX*^ - Hammond Marshall JTM45 - 600VCT @ 230mA no bias 5V @ 2A 6.3V @ 4A 12 | 120/240V pri
290KX*^ - Hammond Marshall JCM900 - 330V @ 100mA 41VCT @ 100mA 6.57VCT @ 2.5A | 120/240V pri
290PAZ^ - Hammond Marshall 18W - 590CT @ 140mA 5V @ 2A 6.3VCT @ 3A | 120/240V pri
290PX^ - Hammond Vox AC15 - 630VCT @ 92mA 5VCT @ 3A 6.66VCT @ 4A | 120/240V pri
273CZ - Hammond Generic - 650VCT @ 172mA 5V @ 3A 6.3VCT @ 5A | 117/125V pri
373CZ^ - Hammond Generic - 650VCT @ 172mA 50V bias 5V @ 3A 6.3VCT @ 5A | 100/110/120/200/220/240V pri
373DZ^ - Hammond Generic - 700VCT @ 104mA 50V bias 5VCT @ 2A 6.3VCT @ 3A | 100/110/120/200/220/240V pri
40-18041 - Classictone BF Vibrolux; 125P26A clone - 650VCT @ 180mA 50V bias 5V @ 3A 6.3VCT @ 4.5A | 120V pri
40-18096^ - Classictone BF Vibrolux Export: 125P31A clone - same as 40-18041 above | 100/120/200/220/230/240V pri
40-19075^ - Classictone JCM900 50W - 332V @ xxxmA 40VCT @ xxxmA 6.3VCT @ xA | 120/240V pri
40-18076^ - Classictone JCM2000 50W - 350V @ xxxmA 44CT @ xxmA 6.3VCT @ xA | 120/240V pri
W022723^ - Weber 125P26A clone - 640VCT @ 200mA 45V bias 5V @ 3A 6.3VCT @ 6A | 120/125V pri
P-TF22723 - AES/NSC 125P26A/036483 clone - 650VCT @ 180mA 50V bias 5V @ 3A 6.3VCT @ 4A | 120V pri
^ = fit not verified, however mfg. end bell window cut-out data and hole spacing data correlate.
+ = fit not verified, however, same part family as one that fit, so should fit.
* = minor fitment may be required such as slight enlarging of mtg. holes and/or end bell window.
if an end bell does not fit, but the mounting holes do, then you have the option of removing the end bell. be careful removing the nuts
that secure the end bell. check beforehand as they may be varnished in place: if that's the case, then removing the end bell wouldn't be recommended.
--pete
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Pete, you do 99 now do 100 :icon_biggrin:
Why not a list of all circuit that can fit on the chassis and of Doug's board that can fit there ?
Franco
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NEW stout chassis PT compatibility.
18WPT - Hoffman 18W PT - 580VCT @ 120mA 5V/6V@ 2A 6.3VCT @ 3A| 120/240V pri
758 - Hoffman/Mojo - 710VCT @ 300mA 50V bias 5V @ 3A 6.3V @ 3.75A | 120V pri
758EX+ - Hoffman/Mojo; Export version of 758 - same as 758 above | 100/120/220/230/240V pri
290MX^ - Hammond AC30 reissue - 550VCT @ 230mA 5VCT @ 3A 6.3VCT @ 6A | 120/240V pri
290CX - Hammond Fender BF Vibrolux; 125P26A clone - 650VCT @ 207mA 50V bias 5V @ 3A 6.3V @ 4A | 120V pri
291CX+ - Hammond Fender BF Vibrolux; 125P26A clone - same as 290CX above made w/ M6 plate for cooler opr.
290CEX+ - Hammond Fender BF Vibrolux; 125P31A clone - same as 290CX above | 240V pri
291CEX+ - Hammond Fender BF Vibrolux; 125P31A clone - same as 290CX above made w/ M6 plate for cooler opr. | 240V pri
290UX^ - Hammond Fender Hot Rod Deluxe - 308V @ 250mA 39V @ 250mA 6.6V @ 3.75A | 117V pri
290LX*^ - Hammond Marshall JTM45 - 600VCT @ 230mA no bias 5V @ 2A 6.3V @ 4A 12 | 120/240V pri
290KX*^ - Hammond Marshall JCM900 - 330V @ 100mA 41VCT @ 100mA 6.57VCT @ 2.5A | 120/240V pri
290PAZ^ - Hammond Marshall 18W - 590CT @ 140mA 5V @ 2A 6.3VCT @ 3A | 120/240V pri
290PX^ - Hammond Vox AC15 - 630VCT @ 92mA 5VCT @ 3A 6.66VCT @ 4A | 120/240V pri
273CZ - Hammond Generic - 650VCT @ 172mA 5V @ 3A 6.3VCT @ 5A | 117/125V pri
373CZ^ - Hammond Generic - 650VCT @ 172mA 50V bias 5V @ 3A 6.3VCT @ 5A | 100/110/120/200/220/240V pri
373DZ^ - Hammond Generic - 700VCT @ 104mA 50V bias 5VCT @ 2A 6.3VCT @ 3A | 100/110/120/200/220/240V pri
40-18041 - Classictone BF Vibrolux; 125P26A clone - 650VCT @ 180mA 50V bias 5V @ 3A 6.3VCT @ 4.5A | 120V pri
40-18096^ - Classictone BF Vibrolux Export: 125P31A clone - same as 40-18041 above | 100/120/200/220/230/240V pri
40-19075^ - Classictone JCM900 50W - 332V @ xxxmA 40VCT @ xxxmA 6.3VCT @ xA | 120/240V pri
40-18076^ - Classictone JCM2000 50W - 350V @ xxxmA 44CT @ xxmA 6.3VCT @ xA | 120/240V pri
W022723^ - Weber 125P26A clone - 640VCT @ 200mA 45V bias 5V @ 3A 6.3VCT @ 6A | 120/125V pri
P-TF22723 - AES/NSC 125P26A/036483 clone - 650VCT @ 180mA 50V bias 5V @ 3A 6.3VCT @ 4A | 120V pri
^ = fit not verified, however mfg. end bell window cut-out data and hole spacing data correlate.
+ = fit not verified, however, same part family as one that fit, so should fit.
* = minor fitment may be required such as slight enlarging of mtg. holes and/or end bell window.
if an end bell does not fit, but the mounting holes do, then you have the option of removing the end bell. be careful removing the nuts
that secure the end bell. check beforehand as they may be varnished in place: if that's the case, then removing the end bell wouldn't be recommended.
--pete
Wow, thats cool Pete, thanks
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Check this thread for an opportunity to grab a new pine head cab designed for the new chassis.
Limited time run, only available whilst I'm in the mood.
Meant for the thrifty builder.
http://el34world.com/Forum/index.php?topic=18238.0 (http://el34world.com/Forum/index.php?topic=18238.0)
Anywho, this helps people that do not have fabricating skills and there are allot more of those people than those that do have fabricating skills
:icon_biggrin:
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Oh cool,
Love to see one with the front panel on
And to go along with your cabinet deal, I have the chassis on sale for $38 right now on this page
http://hoffmanamps.com/MyStore/catalog/Chassis.htm (http://hoffmanamps.com/MyStore/catalog/Chassis.htm)
That would be a chassis and a cabinet for under $100
(http://hoffmanamps.com/MyStore/catalog/images/IMG_8813.jpg)