Hoffman Amplifiers Tube Amplifier Forum
Other Stuff => Guitars => Topic started by: Platefire on November 03, 2014, 01:51:07 am
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I have been looking for a good deal on used set of Gibson 57 Classics on e-bay but have been looking at budget Alnico II's also. The pickups in there now don't have any name on them and pretty sure are ceramic magnets---They sound OK but to me have a harsh edge to them. I think I want some Alnico II's---something kinda sweet. I don't have to have top name brand just something that faithfully reproduces the classic alnico II sound. Any good recommendations? Platefire
Edit-I really like the reviews and price on the Stewmac Golden Age Parson Street Humbuckers. Seems recommendations are A5 for neck and A2 for bridge.
http://www.stewmac.com/Pickups_and_Electronics/Pickups/Electric_Guitar/Golden_Age_Parsons_Street_Humbuckers.html (http://www.stewmac.com/Pickups_and_Electronics/Pickups/Electric_Guitar/Golden_Age_Parsons_Street_Humbuckers.html)
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+1 on the parson st, that's what I would have recommended.
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Hay thanks for the conformation! From what I've seen so far, that's the best thing going for the money. Platefire
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My Son Greg is recommending the Dimarzio PAF 103 very highly.
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I have Classic 57's in my 335 and couldn't be happier. I usually use Voodoo PUP. They are very nice, but very expensive. I tried a set of 59's Voodoo and put the Classic 57's back. Don't get me wrong, the Voodoo's were great and ended up in a Les Paul. I just really liked the tad of brightness the Classic 57's have.
I used some Russian PIO caps setup .15 neck and .22 bridge. Smooth and very warm. I was shooting for the tone Clapton had on his 335 with Cream. It is very close, but also will give you some nice Jazz and Blues tones as well. It is my favorite sounding guitar.
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I recently grabbed a couple of Alnico 2 magnet bars and am planning on doing my first magnet swap by replacing an Alnico 5 in a Duncan 59...
After a bunch of reading last month I definitely believe that this is a nobel pursuit,,,and that there is a musical sweetness to be gained by the change.
I think you are onto something.
I used to have a Duncan Alnico 2 Pro APH-1 in the neck position of a guitar I sold, and I have missed that since I let it go.
Best sounding pickup I can remember having played through. They can be had pretty cheap off ebay for $30-40.
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I recently grabbed a couple of Alnico 2 magnet bars and am planning on doing my first magnet swap by replacing an Alnico 5 in a Duncan 59...
After a bunch of reading last month I definitely believe that this is a nobel pursuit,,,and that there is a musical sweetness to be gained by the change.
I think you are onto something.
I used to have a Duncan Alnico 2 Pro APH-1 in the neck position of a guitar I sold, and I have missed that since I let it go.
Best sounding pickup I can remember having played through. They can be had pretty cheap off ebay for $30-40.
So much for not getting nuts over PUPS. :l2:
It is the magnetic pull that can be an advantage in Alnicos 11. That is why the Classic 57's I have are a little brighter. I can put them a little closer to the strings and still maintain that vintage sweetness, but improve on clarity if I want.
They do not have as much grind, but in a 335 I don't really want that. Really I only prefer it in a Les Paul.
Let us know how it goes, BTW how much over-budget are you on your guitar build? Not making fun. If I end up with only 50% over-budget I am usually excited.
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So much for not getting nuts over PUPS. :l2:
To explain Plate,,,I had contacted Mr. Chambley to get his opinions in early Oct. and after going back and forth for about 4-6 PMs I promised him that I wasn't going to obsess about pickups......I lied.
I proceeded to read 7000 or more posts about models, windings, magnets,,,,etc., etc., etc. etc.,,,,to the point that I now consider myself an expert on the subject. :icon_biggrin:
My biggest thing was that I refused to spend $300 for a pair of pickups, and I stuck with that mentality long enough to pickup a Duncan '59 bridge trembucker and an APH-1 neck for $50 each, in new condition.
The only thing is that I think the '59 will be a little brittle/bright in the bridge position, so I'm going to try the magnet swap as a cure.....some guys say that it rounds the mids out some and smooths the highs....we'll see.
A super cheap fix for you to try would be to swap those ceramic magnets out for some Alnico 2s:
http://www.seymourduncan.com/blog/tips-and-tricks/tinkering-with-pickups-102-the-humbucker-magnet-swap/ (http://www.seymourduncan.com/blog/tips-and-tricks/tinkering-with-pickups-102-the-humbucker-magnet-swap/)
BTW how much over-budget are you on your guitar build? Not making fun. If I end up with only 50% over-budget I am usually excited.
I promised my wife that I wouldn't spend a grand,,,so I'm still way under budget.
But so far all I've bought is the body and dye, and 2 pickups,,,,so I'm showing patience, which is a good sign.
I'm all dyed in and am now just wading through 20 coats of clear.
The good/bad news is that I'm so busy building amps that I don't have time to do anything else,,,including post, document or hold my end up in a decent conversation. :BangHead:
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Just one more thing,,
If you wanted to try the magnet swap thing, I think Doug can get these for you from Mojo and stick em in your next order:
http://www.mojotone.com/guitar-parts/Humbucker-Parts-List/Alnico-2-Cast-Bar-Magnet-2-444-Long#.VFpzcYV0xok (http://www.mojotone.com/guitar-parts/Humbucker-Parts-List/Alnico-2-Cast-Bar-Magnet-2-444-Long#.VFpzcYV0xok)
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OK, thanks for opening up a inside joke! :icon_biggrin: I'm not really sure the pups in my 335 copy are ceramic---I guess the only way to know for sure is take the pickup apart and examine the magnet. According to Aria history that I've reasearched on my Aria TA-50 the pickups are suppose to be Duncan Design HB-103's that are ceramic pickups but on the back of my existing pickup, there is no writting. I have some DD HB-102's in another guitar and that is plainly written on the back. Also the DD HB-103's run 12.7K Neck/16.6K Bridge. My pickups in this ax measure 8.14K neck and 8.57K Bridge---so that don't match their specs. To be honest, they sound pretty dog gone good. They really sound sweet in the upper register but on the lower notes get flabby especially on the open E over a clean fender amp--so I'm wondering if that's the way alnico 2's behave? I've read alnico 5's have a tighter bass and I have some Classic Alnico 5's in my Les Paul that I like a lot. I am interested in finding out what alnico 2's are all about but not sure what I got in my Aria 335 copy. Mystery pickups :w2: Platefire
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Hay Guys, tell me what you think about this on e-bay. A brand new set of Seymore Duncan SH-1 neck and bridge with Nickel covers for $99.00 + $7.00 shipping. These normally cost $90 a piece from Musicians Friend. They are 1959 Alnico V PAF design. Sounds like a good deal to me!!!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/351206985333?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT (http://www.ebay.com/itm/351206985333?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)
How check out the price each at Musician Friend
http://www.musiciansfriend.com/accessories/seymour-duncan-sh-1-1959-model-electric-guitar-pickup (http://www.musiciansfriend.com/accessories/seymour-duncan-sh-1-1959-model-electric-guitar-pickup)
Got to be something wrong with this but the guys got 100% feedback!!? :dontknow:
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My favorite Alnico pickups are the Alnico II Pro (neck) with a Pearly Gates (Bridge) from Seymour Duncan (which really are fantastic pickups!), or Lindy Fralin's Unbuckers wound about 7.5k in the neck, and 8.5 in the bridge. I think they are MUCH better than the `57 Classics, and they are pretty comparable price wise.
Gabriel
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Hay Guys, tell me what you think about this on e-bay. A brand new set of Seymore Duncan SH-1 neck and bridge with Nickel covers for $99.00 + $7.00 shipping. These normally cost $90 a piece from Musicians Friend. They are 1959 Alnico V PAF design. Sounds like a good deal to me!!!
I almost bought those!
I needed a trembucker bridge spacing so I went with 2 separate purchases or else they would be long gone....but partly because I'm not afraid to do the magnet swap.
I've been bitten by the same Alnico 2 bug as you so these would have to be modified...
At our age, I'm not sure how much difference we'll be able to hear any way :l2:
I wouldn't be too nervous about the listing,,,Duncan 59s are one of the most over-sold, over-installed PAF types around.
There isn't a huge demand for them and it shows in auctions like this....but now that you've posted it, the clock is ticking.
It's cool to see Gabriel confirm my thoughts about the APH-1....to me it had a great soft touch, with a nice balanced tonal output, and great singing sustain.
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Thanks guys for the input, I'm learning a bunch, except somebody explain to me about trembucker spacing? I'm pretty sure it has to to with pole spacing but I probably need to be aware to get the right spacing on what I buy.
Also I would like to talk briefly about use of distortion pedals. I play mostly clean but do use a distortion for some songs and is usually always with the bridge pickup,--classic driving & rocking. I've read that alnico 2 is not the best for distortion pedals and alnico 5 with tighter bass and mids is better for that. So Pearly Gates is alnico 2 PAF style wound a little hot. So is my perception of alnico 2 with distortion pedals not being a good match---a little off? Understand my perception is based on research and not actual experience!
To be honest, I'm crazy about classic Allman Bro. tone which I know from looking at videos 90% of their playing is on the neck pickup. Most of my playing is on the neck pickup. Something that when you back off the guitar volume get a nice jazzy clean cord sound but sings the lead when the guitar vol is full up. Of course the right amp set properly has a lot to do with that also. So I'm thinking for the neck I'm wanting something fat, singing but with cut through clarity mostly played through a low watt clean tube amp. The SD A2pro with it's rather weak winding sounds like a good candidate for that. Platefire
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What happens when you use AlNiCo 3 wound exactly like an original and installed in a Japanese 335? We are talking 335 aren't we? Did not want to muddy the water, but these are that. $300 bux. :laugh:
Now after listening to these I wonder what they really sound like. I really know as I have a set. You can certainly order by spec from MOJOTONE and get a great deal if you know what you want.
Most of my pickups I get from Peter since he is a winder and I am not. He has a simple philosophy. He copies the old pups exactly without his spin on them. It takes some humility not to think you can do better. The cool thing is if you call him he will answer questions at no charge and so will Lindy Fralin.
Almost Brothers tone? Betts? Mellissa? Blue Sky was played on his stock goldtop with original PAF Gibsons. Since Gibson made the PUPS EVERYONE wants to copy it is hard to believe others make much better. I have used many including Fralins (too articulate for me) Pearly Gates are nice in a Soild Body. I had one in a SG. I had a pair of Bareknuckles in a Les Paul. After spending tons of money and time looking I fianally began working with Peter (Voodoo PUPS). If I buy a PUP from him after discussing my needs and they do not perform like I want I mail them back and get them tweaked. I pay shipping only. I do not have any PUP anymore that is not a Gibson of Fender or made from Gibson or Fender parts.
I guess it comes down to how anal you are and what you consider your time to be worth. Oh yea, I don't have a ton of old pup parts that have had sweat and beer spilled in them to be able to get a vintage tone so I can never really get a true PAF unless I buy a true 57. They all sound a tad different because of how they were made and that is the charm and also the headache.
Keep in mind the PUP influences the sound of the guitar more than any other part on it. I would have to say since the largest desired vintage Humbucker tone is a Gibson that Gibson probably makes the best pickup to get that desired Gibson vintage tone.
Again, watch the video and remember there is no way you are hearing what they really sound like, but you can get a idea of how balanced they are and that is what is most important to me. Oh yea, I forgot about potting. Remember those old pups have cracked and dry wax.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wQ_tPANzDXE#t=121 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wQ_tPANzDXE#t=121)
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... somebody explain to me about trembucker spacing?
Here's SD's explanation:
http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/faq/frequently-asked/everything-else/what_does_tremb/ (http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/faq/frequently-asked/everything-else/what_does_tremb/)
AND
http://www.seymourduncan.com/blog/tips-and-tricks/string-spacing-explained-humbuckers-vs-trembuckers/ (http://www.seymourduncan.com/blog/tips-and-tricks/string-spacing-explained-humbuckers-vs-trembuckers/)
I'm assembling a strat body with 2 hum's with std. tremolo, so I need the wider string spacing.
I can't speak about the use of pedals cause I have no real world experience, but I thought the APH really shined in the neck spot through my Mesa's built in distortion. But I was playing hard rock and heavier popular covers, so take this all with a grain of salt.
To be honest, I'm crazy about classic Allman Bro. tone which I know from looking at videos 90% of their playing is on the neck pickup. Most of my playing is on the neck pickup. Something that when you back off the guitar volume get a nice jazzy clean cord sound but sings the lead when the guitar vol is full up. Of course the right amp set properly has a lot to do with that also. So I'm thinking for the neck I'm wanting something fat, singing but with cut through clarity mostly played through a low watt clean tube amp. The SD A2pro with it's rather weak winding sounds like a good candidate for that. Platefire
When I think of that specific tone, I immediately think of the Classic 57's....but I think you'll get pretty close with any of these models we've been discussing.
Just in case you haven't heard these samples, here you go...
I really like the Seth Lover Model tone, but they suggest shying away from them for distortion because they are not potted.
http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/audio-samples/humbuckers_and/ (http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/audio-samples/humbuckers_and/)
**I just read Ed's post after I typed mine....he really knows what he is talking about
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Ed
I'll have you to know my 335 copy is not a $300. Japanese copy but a $468.52 Chinese copy, Big Difference :icon_biggrin:
And if the pups are the heart of your electrics sound, good pups should do wonders, I hope? I have had the guitar
about five years and have no desire to get rid of it. It's copied after the $4K 1963 ES 335STD. The veneers, center block and neck is all maple--no spruce. So far it has had no sign of flying to pieces. After playing it off and on for five years, I think it worthy of new pups and here is a pix.
I do appreciate you sharing your experience with me because your quest has gone light years further than mine. I'm still in the process of deciding how much I want to spend--really looking for a good deal on something close to PAF's---don't haf to be the Holy Grail. I have a fear factor also of the process required to rewire and change pups in a 335--not for the faint hearted. BTW---how much does Peter's PAF's run $$$?
I tried the video and had a error---so I will try it later
SILVERGUN---Hadn't got time to digest your post--work day at the church house to do grounds and bldg maintenance, so got to get going. Check it out later. Platefire
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Ed--Finally got the video to play. I like the tone and the guys finger picking style is great but I would of like to see him get more aggressive in the clean mode to see what they sound like really bearing down on it causing the amp to break up a little. It sounded a little more mellow than I expected. I generally like something a little more brighter with a harder edge than what I heard but for his picking style done it was appropriate. I use the old blues method of cranking your amp a little bit and backing off the guitar volume for clean but turning up the guitar volume to let it dig in a bit on mostly a clean amp cranked to the very edge of breakup. I use a overdrive pedal to go beyond that. So I guess I just need to try a set of alnico 2's just to see if it will work for me. I have had a little experience with alnico 5's and like them very much but not with the more classic 2's.
SILVERGUN--I checked out the links and now understand the trembucker spacing. Thanks! I measured my 335C and it was 2" at bridge PU so I need a regular humbucker. Checked out the samples but again the finger picking style don't project the more aggressive flat picking I want to hear and the dirty samples are masked with either a pedal or distortion channel. The classic pickups sounded a lot alike to me with a little variation. I still thinking seriously about the deal on the SH-1. He had several set to sell. Platefire
BTW-The ax in my posting page picture is a Jay Turser PRS copy--yeah here we go again!!! is a candidate for new pups. Thinking of trying some alnico 2's in there just to see how I like them first. The change out process would be much simpler than the 335. Also I like this youtube video of Seth Lover pickup especially on the neck PU.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1l-sHxFKmWA&list=RD1l-sHxFKmWA#t=381 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1l-sHxFKmWA&list=RD1l-sHxFKmWA#t=381)
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Plate,
First the price for Voodoo PUPS are $300 per set. They are expensive and you can achieve a nice tone for less money.
Here is my suggestion to you to consider. If a PUP does not sound good clean, do you want to use it? I don't, because most of the time I am playing rhythm chords and they do not need to sound aggressive. The original PAF was not designed for distortion as it is your amp doing this. When I say a balance tone is very important to me, what I mean is I do not want it bright or dark. Nothing shrill and I always use a smaller cap on the neck to let more highs pass. I have a tone and volume knobs and use them.
I really like the tone you are speaking of, but I do not get it from the pups and do not believe I can. I have mentioned I prefer Humbuckers and Marshall amps to play blues. The reason is the Allman Brothers and old Charley Daniels and what is now called "Southern Rock-Blues". I get the idea of cleaning up by lowering the signal which is what I do as well. That is what I like about dual humbuckers with a 4 knob setup. There are so many different tones to get.
Silvergun is correct is saying you will get very similar tones will all mentioned. Low output PUPS in a 335 plugged into a cranked Marshall playing the neck sounds like this in lead. When I am playing one of my Fender amps I use a RC Booster which I have found gives me this open warm slightly distorted tones.
Give and take as is said. I have been much more thickheaded than you seem to be. I chased a nice 335 Gibson tone for years and I would bet I spent more money chasing the tone. One day my friend George said why don't you simply get a nice Gibson 335. Well I did and it worked. :l2:
I am not saying your Chibson will not achieve the same tone and would bet it will. All I am saying is if you want an old Gibson tone, old Gibson PUPS will probably work. :icon_biggrin:
I will admit the chase is fun, but I only have a certain amount of time and I have a LOT of tubes to burn through before they bury me with my Les Paul and Super Reverb. :laugh:
Seriously, I have never not been able to get a nice breakup from a good low output humbucker, but if it is not clean to begin with I can never play clean and that drives me nuts to be playing a nice sweet tune like Fooled Around and Fell In Love and my guitar grinding.
If your guitar will play this it will also get that warm clear sustaining tone of the Almost Brothers. Gotta love it and I wish you luck on your decision my friend.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DyMMEmwFQUE (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DyMMEmwFQUE)
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Here is what My 335 looks like. I wasted a lot of money till I bought this and I really love it. It is a Custom Shop Birdseye. Over the top, Hell yes!!!
This is the one I changed PUPS in and put the Classic 57's back in. It is just one of those guitars that when you play it you say man they did a Good job building this thing. You know what I mean. Everything just feels right. I did not get it new, but it does not have a scratch on it..................yet!!!!!!!!!!!
I lovvvvvvvvvvvvvvvve this Guitar. A lot of folks say it is too much. I think they are Jealous. I hope you love yours the same.
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I love those 335s too. This is the one I bought new in '72. My rock 'n roll daughter has been playing it for about 10 years now.
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I love those 335s too. This is the one I bought new in '72. My rock 'n roll daughter has been playing it for about 10 years now.
Verrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrry nice Steve. Love the tailpiece and the Martin ain't bad either. I hope your R&R Daughter keeps it looking like it is in the photo, well almost. They do get used.
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A lot of folks say it is too much.
Mmmmmmm, :think1:, yeah, too much.
Brad :l2:
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A lot of folks say it is too much.
Mmmmmmm, :think1: , yeah, too much.
Brad :l2:
Naw my friend, just right.
I would be willing to bet if it were in your possession you would feel quite different. :laugh:
It is not often you pick up a newer Gibson and it has that feel. You know the feel, you have a Heritage Les Paul. Has the wide nut and it will play some real purdy chords.
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Just yankin your chain Ed, it's beautiful!
Brad :icon_biggrin:
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Just yankin your chain Ed, it's beautiful!
Brad :icon_biggrin:
I know brother. It is beautiful. I wish I could say I had something to do with it, but I just bought it from a good player down on his luck. I will say one thing about Gibson. When they get it right there is nothing like it.
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I will say one thing about Gibson. When they get it right there is nothing like it.
Yeah, a good Gibby is great!
Brad :icon_biggrin:
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This post has turned into a 335 Love thread. Ed I like white guitars and your 335 is perfect--thats got class! sluckeys liable to get to talking about his 335 and haft to go borrow it back from his daughter a while. I really like my Chibson--thanks for the new name Ed. Glad I didn't get a Japson!
Nobody has addressed my fear of 335 re-wiring. Y'all been ignoring it! so it must be really bad. :sad2: It looks awful sceary to me! Been looking a vidios on the net regarding changing PU and rewiring--fishing line to tie off pots and switch, bodyless cord for input jack and template to rewire new pots/switch/jack outside of guitar(wiring harness). Fishing it all through the F-hole. Anybody here with experience that could walk me through it as I do it? Platefire
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This post has turned into a 335 Love thread. Ed I like white guitars and your 335 is perfect--thats got class! sluckeys liable to get to talking about his 335 and haft to go borrow it back from his daughter a while. I really like my Chibson--thanks for the new name Ed. Glad I didn't get a Japson!
Nobody has addressed my fear of 335 re-wiring. Y'all been ignoring it! so it must be really bad. :sad2: It looks awful sceary to me! Been looking a vidios on the net regarding changing PU and rewiring--fishing line to tie off pots and switch, bodyless cord for input jack and template to rewire new pots/switch/jack outside of guitar(wiring harness). Fishing it all through the F-hole. Anybody here with experience that could walk me through it as I do it? Platefire
Wiring it is no harder than wiring up a Les Paul using a coat hanger for fingers while standing on your head. :l2:
If you have not done it before it can make for a long day. There is not really anything anyone can do except offer tricks. I use a piece of brass welding rod (basically a coat hanger). Bent "L" with a loop so a pot will sit in it. I made 2 different size ones. I have some 2 sided padded tape. Once I have everything soldered I stick the pot to the holder and down through the f hole and back up through the body.
I am funning you some. It will take some time, but if you get the tools made and sized right it is fairly easy. I had a problem once with the furthermost pot wanting to spin when I tightened it and I could not reach it and did not want to grip the threads of the pot. Point being is make sure all your nuts on your pots easily finger tighten before going in.
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Thanks Ed
After all the discussion and research, the way I seem to be leaning is a PAF Alnico 2 for the neck and Alnico 5 for the bridge. My reasoning for this is I do about 95% of my clean playing on the neck pickup. Usually with just a little reverb and short delay. If I use any OD at all it would be lite on this pickup. I play a lot of combination lead and clean rhythm messing with the volume control to go between both. This pup would be in about the 7K Ohms area.
On the other hand the bridge pickup is what I use distortion & OD pedals with and louder more aggressive playing for. I am familiar with alnico 5 and from my experiance do good with distortion, brighter leads and crunchy rhythms. This is running a little hotter pup in the 8K+ area
Does this make sense to you? because alnico 2 in bridge position might be better than I would think. My distortion use would be in the classic vain or standard blues rock--not real high gain. Platefire
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Thanks Ed
After all the discussion and research, the way I seem to be leaning is a PAF Alnico 2 for the neck and Alnico 5 for the bridge. My reasoning for this is I do about 95% of my clean playing on the neck pickup. Usually with just a little reverb and short delay. If I use any OD at all it would be lite on this pickup. I play a lot of combination lead and clean rhythm messing with the volume control to go between both. This pup would be in about the 7K Ohms area.
On the other hand the bridge pickup is what I use distortion & OD pedals with and louder more aggressive playing for. I am familiar with alnico 5 and from my experiance do good with distortion, brighter leads and crunchy rhythms. This is running a little hotter pup in the 8K+ area
Does this make sense to you? because alnico 2 in bridge position might be better than I would think. My distortion use would be in the classic vain or standard blues rock--not real high gain. Platefire
It makes sense to position them in this manner. It sounds like you have determined what you really want. A lot will simply tweaking them by height. Those Stewmac should work well. I have never used them, but I am normally very happy with what I get from Stewmac. I mean, they are successful and have a good reputation.
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Hay Thanks Ed for confirming my reasoning!
Think I may order a set of gold colored first for my Dolphin Guitar to test the waters first, and if they live up to my
hopes and expectations, order a chrome/nickel set for my 335c. They would be a lot easier to install in that one for testing purposes. Platefire
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Hey, how did y'all ge from CHEAP guitars that sound good to ES-335s? Can you even say those words in the same sentence?
Seriouslu though, One of the best cheap guitars that I play regularly is this Peavey Firenza. It's got P-90s in it. I wanted a hardtail guitar to use for slide so that it would be easier to change tunings. I had a slightly raised nut installed which makes it slightly harder to fret, but it is a tone monster with a brass slide!
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MadMax--you must be corn-fuzed--cheap guitars that sound good is another thread next door :icon_biggrin: but that's Ok! Your Peavey is Kool. My 335 is an Aria copy. Glad for folks like Ed who has the real thing. Mine will have to do until the real thing comes along.
BTW-New Stew Mac Parson St buckers have been ordered and on their way. Platefire
EDIT: StewMac Buckers are in!!!
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Well I put the new pups in this morning. I must say I'm kind of surprised. I had my Allen Accomplice set up for some of my other guitars with the vol set on about 6 and master Vol on about 7. I plugged into that and they were distorting pretty much like that, so I turned the Master volume up 100% to kind of do away with the MV and turned the regular volume down to about 2.5(like a regular DR) to clean it up. Sounded a whole lot better like that but even then when you turned the buckers up on the guitar it was digging in like crazy. So I kept playing and lowering the vclume down little by little and testing to last setting on the amp about 1. Them puppy's were still digging in at full guitar volume a little bit.
My first impression is they are kind of nice mellow gentle kittens through most of the guitar volume knob travel until you get up to about 80% and at 80% to 100% it's like it kicks into overdrive on driving your amp and with slight treble boost in the mix. I like it and can see how that can be very useful especially the way I play using the guitar volume a lot. The tone is great and the response I will have to learn to work with to get the most out of it and how to set my amp for it. I got to go try them again! :laugh: Platefire
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Nice follow up reporting!
Glad to hear you like em even though they were a little different than what you might have expected.
I can't wait to get mine goin but I'm fryin bigger fish right now. :rolleyes:
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.......but I'm fryin bigger fish right now. :rolleyes:
Like this?
Brad :laugh:
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To update my take on these Parson St. PAF's, played them with my church group at church today. Not going to say everything was perfect because I'm still trying to get the feel of um as they are quite different. Morning service I really didn't have my amp turned up enough to get the response I needed. I was kind of struggling. Amp was set Clean. Also tried with distortion pedal was a little mushy. Think I need to do some adjusting on the pedal and cut the distortion level down and boost the treble up a bit--next time.
Night service I turned the amp volume up just a hair, played clean and I think I hit the sweet spot for the neck pickup which I was mostly playing over. That was really a good experience! Very touch responsive. I had the amp set with bass boosted, treble cut, Mids just slightly into the raw zone, bright switch off for nice phat Allman Bros. type tone. Got to play some nice solos---must say I'm feeling pretty good about um after that. Nothing like a good experience to help seal the deal! Platefire
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Hay Guys, tell me what you think about this on e-bay. A brand new set of Seymore Duncan SH-1 neck and bridge with Nickel covers for $99.00 + $7.00 shipping. These normally cost $90 a piece from Musicians Friend. They are 1959 Alnico V PAF design. Sounds like a good deal to me!!!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/351206985333?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT (http://www.ebay.com/itm/351206985333?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)
How check out the price each at Musician Friend
http://www.musiciansfriend.com/accessories/seymour-duncan-sh-1-1959-model-electric-guitar-pickup (http://www.musiciansfriend.com/accessories/seymour-duncan-sh-1-1959-model-electric-guitar-pickup)
Got to be something wrong with this but the guys got 100% feedback!!? :dontknow:
Those pickups on eBay may be OEM sets that were not intended for street retail. He has lots of good recent feedback particularly regarding those pickup sets and he has dropped the price progressively. There's a reason the Duncan '59 is such a ubiquitous pickup besides the fact that it's been around forever. It's a great pickup that sounds really good in a lot of applications. It's hard to beat for a classic PAF sound in a Les Paul. I love them although my playing style leans more toward the equally ubiquitous Duncan JB - my favorite pickup of all time.
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alerich
Yep, it was a temptation to get those SD 59's at that price. The target is to get the right PU setup in my 335C. Test right now is the StewMac Parson Street A2 neck/A5 bridge in my PRS copy. All internet advice said install the A5 in neck and A2 in bridge---of course my thinking caused me to do it backwards from that wisdom :dontknow: Court is still out if it's a go. I will have to put a little bit more live band playing time in to make a determination. Of course there is going to be some difference in my Mahogany body/maple cap PRS copy and my maple block/veneer semi-hollow 335C. I may should have put the A5 in the neck and A2 in the bridge as recommended---time will tell. Platefire
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All internet advice said install the A5 in neck and A2 in bridge---of course my thinking caused me to do it backwards from that wisdom
I don't know Plate....
I chose the same path as you and here's my reasoning:
-The A2 magnet has a softer string pull so I want it in the neck because the string naturally vibrates more in that location, so I want to allow that to happen, to allow greater sustain.
- The A5 will be a bit punchier, so I want that in the bridge for brighter/punchier lead playing,,,,and the slightly greater string pull wont have as much effect as if it were in the neck spot.
Since the magnets continue to affect string vibration even if the pickup is off, I just wanted to be sure I was getting max. vibration/sustain all of the time.....I could be wrong, but it makes sense to me.
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I don't know Plate....
I chose the same path as you and here's my reasoning:
-The A2 magnet has a softer string pull so I want it in the neck because the string naturally vibrates more in that location, so I want to allow that to happen, to allow greater sustain.
- The A5 will be a bit punchier, so I want that in the bridge for brighter/punchier lead playing,,,,and the slightly greater string pull wont have as much effect as if it were in the neck spot.
Since the magnets continue to affect string vibration even if the pickup is off, I just wanted to be sure I was getting max. vibration/sustain all of the time.....I could be wrong, but it makes sense to me.
I believe you are correct. I recently built a Van Halen style Strat (from a MIM Squier) with a single bridge humbucking pickup (GFS VEH). I also own an inexpensive Epiphone Les Paul JR with a single bridge humbucking pickup (Duncan '59). Both guitars are really sing and sustain and neither is terribly expensive and they are both bolt on necks. There is definitely a method to your logic. Back in the day the thing to do was to raise your pickups as close to the strings as possible to get as much output as possible. That tended to introduce little tuning anomalies (due to increased string pull) that then disappeared when you lowered the pickup back to it's nominal position. I always wondered why some players used to have their humbucking pickups set flush with the pickup rings. Now I think I know why. Better tone.
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Hi Silvergun
Your reasoning for placement of PU's as you did was my exact reasoning also. I do all my clean jazz, blues, country on the neck pickup and all my hard driving stuff sometimes with distortion is done on the bridge. That still makes sense to me but on the internet most of the recommendations is just the opposite. No matter what I say or think it always comes down to the bottom line where the rubber meets the road in actual live playing with a full band. If it don't work there, it don't work! I've found that what sounds wonderful by myself in my living room usually don't translate to the stage. Sometimes, but mostly not! Also don't base your opinion on a one time playing experience--especially when your having a bad session--everybody has them. Your mood at the time can color the results a bunch! IMHO you have to live with a set up a little while to make a correct determination--anyway that's the way it is with me :dontknow: Your opinion averaged out over several playing experiences is what counts. If they are all turning out bad, you might need to make a change.
alerich
My approach to PU height use to be to get them close to the strings for the most output without detuning the strings. My experiance is on Single coils is alnico's don't want to be set hardly any closer than 1/8" for hottest output but sometimes sound a little sweeter by backing off more than 1/8". Sometimes sweeter is better than hotter. Also my experience with Single coil Ceramics is they can go a little closer to the strings than alnico's without the magnetic pull detuning the strings, even less than 1/8". On humbuckers I've had seem to be happy very close to the strings without any detuning. With humbucker LP setup I usually set the neck to get the most output and adjust the bridge to be balanced with the neck without overpowering it too much. So regarding the A2neck/A5bridge approch I've presently got the A2 set for highest output. May be wise to experiment with it down away from the strings a little further just to see what that brings? I set it close because of the weaker PAF 7K magnet strength but maybe a little more trial and error is in order. As you say,
better tone is what were chasing after:>)Platefire
BTW-I have a Epi LP Studio with the standard/stock Epi Classic Alnico 5 open humbuckers and have no desire to change them, they have ultimate LP tone to my ears
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BTW-I have a Epi LP Studio with the standard/stock Epi Classic Alnico 5 open humbuckers and have no desire to change them, they have ultimate LP tone to my ears
Mine is the cheapo $125 Les Paul Jr. model. The stock pickup sounded fine at moderate gain and volume levels. With higher gain and higher sound pressure levels (I play really really loud) it squealed like a stuck pig. I had no choice but to replace it. That guitar has since been tuned to open E flat and relegated to slide only use. I may go from .010 to .011 strings and raise the action a bit on the next string change. Also had to change those horrid stamped tuners. GFS sells an aftermarket set of sealed tuners with chrome "butter bean" keys for $25 that I really like.
Come to think of it I own three 1989 Epiphone Les Paul Customs, one 1989 Epiphone Les Paul Standard and that Junior. None of them has the stock pickups anymore. One of the Customs came with Gibson the 490R 490T set when I bought it. Swapped the bridge out for a Duncan JB. One of the other Customs had the Tonerider Alnico II Classic set. Never really got to hear them. The bridge pickup squealed like a stuck pig. That guitar now has a set of Duncan '59 pickups.
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I've wondered about those LP Jr's---sounds like your pretty happy with yours with the new non-squealing pig pickup. I've got a Epi LP Special given to me by my X-son in law that he had on the wall as a decoration and handed it to me off the wall and said it's yours. I cleaned it up, set it up and played around with it a couple of years and just recently put a set of Duncan design HB-102's on it I had on hand. Also changed some of the trim. I remember back in the 60's my picking buddy had a Gibson melody maker and the special kind of reminds me of that. I think it's cool in looks and operation now.
Boy you've got a slew of LP's. In the mid 70's I got a gibson custom black beauty, late 70's gibson LP Deluxe/mini HB, 80's picked up a Hoyer LP copy and that was my LP until about 2 years ago when I got a epi LP standard black and a epi LP studio white. The studio won out as the fav, so I kept it and recently changed out the trim but as I previously said the classic A5 pickups are staying. IMHO the epiphones play every bit as good as the gibsons I had or even better.
Speaking of Duncan 59's, I just ordered a set for my Aria 335 copy after much deliberation :w2: Platefire
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Speaking of Duncan 59's, I just ordered a set for my Aria 335 copy after much deliberation.
I hope you like. I think you will. It's a great all purpose pickup. Close to PAF specs on windings and output. They sound good clean. Big and warm. They sound good loud and overdriven. Nice and clear. No mud like you sometimes get with overwound pickups but still not overly bright. I have always liked them.
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On the 59's I have read all kind of raves about the neck but seems like everyone else puts something else in the bridge position to go with the 59 neck. Some says its to bright or harsh. Ed says just drop um down a bit if they are harsh to mellow them out. He's a 59'er fan too before he got his custom PAF's. I'm pretty easy to please, so unless they are really rude--I will probably love them. SD says they are best suited for solid mahogany LP type bodies and my 335C is all maple block and sides--so don't know how that will pan out. I may haft to do some tweaking on caps/pots and such. For the price I got these PU's new, it was worth a try. Platefire
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Pickups still haven't came in yet. Has any of you had to drill out you pot holes on your 335 import copy for your new larger diameter pot shafts? Did you use a regular drill. I have had a regular drill get a little out of control and chew up stuff. One guy I seen said he used a step drill. Little nervous about drilling out the holes. Platefire
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Why not use a hand held reamer?
Brad :icon_biggrin:
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Sounds good! To be honest, I've never have used a Hand Held Reamer, so I've been doing some searches looking at what's available. Some are pretty expensive! I'll drop by LOWES or Stines this week and see what they got. Thanks, Platefire
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Pickups still haven't came in yet. Has any of you had to drill out you pot holes on your 335 import copy for your new larger diameter pot shafts? Did you use a regular drill. I have had a regular drill get a little out of control and chew up stuff. One guy I seen said he used a step drill. Little nervous about drilling out the holes. Platefire
I had to do that recently while installing a set of EMG Blackouts in a Peavey EXP. I used a Dremel with some sort of abrasive tip and slowly enlarged the hole, test fitting as I went. No chipping or splitting of the paint happened. It worked great. Those are amazing little tools.
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I used a Dremel with some sort of abrasive tip and slowly enlarged the hole, test fitting as I went.
That's what I'd do also.
My step bits only cover about 1/8th inch thickness per step and the body of your guitar is probably more than that. The two hand reamers I have would hit the back of the guitar before getting the hole big enough.
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OK, I've got a Black and Decker type Dremel Copy. Everything I got is a copy :l2: If you could elaborate a little more on what type tip---was it smaller that the existing hole and you kept circling around the perimeter the hole until it was large enough? Platefire
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Hey, don't listen to Ed...it can tend to be a good deal harder than standing on your head while fishing wire through a L.P.cavity...lol. big thumb up for fluted reamer, and welding rod, stiff wire (like solid core household mains Gnd., coat hanger, or even old metal 'track' from windshield wiper-or wood ruler is good 'cause it's flat, and you get control when twisting.
Also might go with mock up of hole pattern, paying attention to cap placement/dress in relation to F hole, etc. especially if using big old style PIO's or HV caps with long leads. also,if at all possible use BEST WIRE...if you have to muck with it, you don,t want it fallin' apart/fraying before it's in.
Cover the old girl up with a cloth(leaving F hole open of course) taped down with low tack tape so as not to scratch, or stick if desired (and bench too), because you may well be turning, twisting like a couple Lambada dancers, the two of you before everything's back together. Funny, I used to do this all the time when I was younger, but was just doing my epi 'custom shop' 335 a fewMos back, and was a lot harder and time consuming than I remember. Fishjing the pots through with monofiliment, or? is a good idea.
I try to start at jack first, fishing through, tightening then moving on to next closest to jack, with parts staged 'ship in glass' sort of-all pre wired from my piece of Luann mock up. or cardboard, or whatever. all with fishing line pre 'fished' through pot/jack holes, and tied to pots/jacks, then fastened to body with tape so as not to fall/feed back through. maybe allow time to do in stages if it's not going smooth......seems it's one of those jobs that can go surprisingly easy, or turn into a headache, just as easily.
Oh, by the way, it almost sounds like you might be a candidate for a p90echtomy...they'll usually fit in with just a hair shaved off in the four corners of the cavity, & if you don't rout the width too much/or maybe even at all, can be covered back up with stock HB mounting rings if it turns out you didn't like 'em, but I can't see not liking them. I had Doug ''Raging Cajun'' Kershaw's ES 330 for a while, and Holy Cow, maybe the best 33(?)style guitar I've ever played/heard. traded my '52 LP for that guitar and 3mos rent. come to think of it, The LP had one of the best sounding p90s I've ever heard also. 330 was 60s if remember correctly. wine red, major checking, beautiful, in every way, like said...when Gibson, or Epi for that matter, got it right, man it was RRRighTTTT!
good luck, and hope I could help in somee small way. and don't be afraid of step drill...just watch out-some have more deeper cutting area than otherass---meaning the amount of cutting area before it 'steps' up to the next size hole on the same bit. ultimately you want cutting area same or more than thickness of body, or will start to cut next size hole. harbor fright has a set of 3 for less than one of some others. of course probably not as good, but my set has lasted a few years, and you'll use on chassis all the time. makes flawless holes in lot of metals, with added bonus---just kiss the top of hole in metal with slight pressure from drill when desired size is reached and you can run your finger around it, burr free!.
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If you could elaborate a little more on what type tip---was it smaller that the existing hole and you kept circling around the perimeter the hole until it was large enough?
I don't honestly recall what tip I used. Most Dremel kits (copy or real deal) come with an assortment of cylindrical and conical shaped abrasive bits. Anything that will fit with the existing opening will work. I just gently went around the entire opening one or two passes at a time and then test fit the new pot to see if it was big enough. In my case the new pots were only slightly larger than the old pots so it didn't take much. Slow and steady is the key.
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Thanks super&Plexie----I always appreciate the voice of experience. I've got a set of Seymour Duncan SH-1's(59) ordered that are running behind/late on delivery. I will wait to order the new pots/caps/switch until I pull the old ones out and check out the arrangement. The key for me is to take my time, not get in a hurry and think things out in advance as much as possible. When I get in a rush is when I make big mistakes! Thanks to you and others I have a lot of good information. Once you get into a job you usually encounter something you had not anticipated which may be a good time to stop and ask some more questions. I'm truly looking forward to cruising my 335c with new pu's and electronics.
alerich---got you---thing I may have a tool already that will work.
Thanks, Platefire
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Har! I've already spent more time researching this 335 thang for new pickups and re-wiring than is reasonable! Got several questions:
1-What's the deal with Bourns Pots and paper/oil caps? That much better than CTS and orange drops? Why don't anybody ever use Mallory 150's on guitar wiring?
2-I've got coil taps/4 conductor wiring with my SD SH-1's/59's. The only pots I've seen with DPDT switch is Alphas--would those fit through a 335 F hole? Also seems like on about a 7K Ohm PAF pickup the coil tap for a single coil would be at most about 4K---seems too weak to be real value for tapping???
3-A lot of kits come with all Audio taper pots. I see where in a lot of cases folks use Audio taper for volume and linear taper for tone pots. Which is best??
4-There is a You Tube video that I think is very good showing the difference in sound between the sound of modern wiring and vintage wiring. I think the modern hads the tone bleed cap and resistor where vintage doesn't. On the video the vintage sounded more warm and organic and the modern sounded more bright edge. Any opinions which is best.
Trying to come to a final conclusion on what wiring to go for since I got my pickups came in today. Platefire
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1-What's the deal with Bourns Pots and paper/oil caps? That much better than CTS and orange drops? Why don't anybody ever use Mallory 150's on guitar wiring?
I feel that the Bourns pot is just a better part made from better material hence the premium price. Having said that I have never used them. I use Alpha pots in all my guitars and have had very good results across the board. I can only recall one pot that ever failed and it did so very quickly - within a few months. I bought it from GFS. None of the pots I have ever bought from Doug have given me a moment's trouble.
I honestly rarely or never use the tone controls on my guitars so in that scenario the tone control itself is basically just a load on the circuit as I understand it. I will disconnect the tone controls or install no load pots on darker guitars that I am trying to brighten up. Since I rarely use the tone controls I have never noticed much difference between caps. People who use PIO caps seem to swear by them.
2-I've got coil taps/4 conductor wiring with my SD SH-1's/59's. The only pots I've seen with DPDT switch is Alphas--would those fit through a 335 F hole? Also seems like on about a 7K Ohm PAF pickup the coil tap for a single coil would be at most about 4K---seems too weak to be real value for tapping?
That's a good question. I have pulled Strat pickups that I thought sounded too wimpy only to find that they were 4.0-4.5 K ohms. My instinct is that this is too low to be useful to me but as always that's a personal preference. I just installed a GFS Fat Pat in the bridge of one of my Strats and coil tapped it and it sounds great but that pickup is wound to 14 K ohms so tapped it's still about 7K or so. Given the PITA involved in wiring a hollow body guitar I might just rain check the idea of coil tapping that particular pickup.
3-A lot of kits come with all Audio taper pots. I see where in a lot of cases folks use Audio taper for volume and linear taper for tone pots. Which is best?
Many pickup wiring diagrams don't even stipulate audio vs linear pots. The same logic applies to their use in amps. It won't make the circuit behave differently per se but it will respond a bit differently for a given amount of rotation of the pot. Most of the guitars you already own probably have audio taper tone pots so that is probably what you are used to.
4-There is a You Tube video that I think is very good showing the difference in sound between the sound of modern wiring and vintage wiring. I think the modern hads the tone bleed cap and resistor where vintage doesn't. On the video the vintage sounded more warm and organic and the modern sounded more bright edge. Any opinions which is best.
I tried that treble bleed circuit once. I didn't like it and immediately removed it. It's supposed to retain treble as you roll off the volume pot. The guitar in question was a single HB pickup Strat with a GFS VEH pickup and a maple neck/fretboard and a single 500K volume pot. Already bright as hell. With a single pickup, maple neck and no tone control I didn't need it. You guitar is a different animal and it might be useful.
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Thanks, always helps to have someones Else's perspective when your trying to make a decision. Nobody else could understand this kind of deliberation on a thing like this other that another dedicated guitar player.
At this point I seem to be leaning toward vintage wiring and no PU tap switches. I really would like to get as close as possible as if it was the year 1959 and I walked into a guitar store and purchased an ES-335 stock---or at least a close as you can get with a ARIA clone 335. In fact I'm considering the possibility of ordering this pre-wired harness that has pretty much everything I want for my modification for $50.00 free shipping. You can't even buy the parts from StewMac for this price!! So please have a look and please tell me if I'm missing something?? I can't see buying all the parts and putting it together myself when it will cost me $25 to $40 more to do so. The only possible issue I can see is making sure you can get it all through the f-hole in place but I don't seen anything in the picture that would prevent that(follow attached Link). Platefire
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Prewired-ES-335-Wiring-Harness-for-Gibson-CTS-Switchcraft-PIO-Paper-In-Oil-/111483076236?pt=Guitar_Accessories&hash=item19f4e8be8c (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Prewired-ES-335-Wiring-Harness-for-Gibson-CTS-Switchcraft-PIO-Paper-In-Oil-/111483076236?pt=Guitar_Accessories&hash=item19f4e8be8c)
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I prefer vintage and I use PIO caps. My tone pot is almost never dimed, especially on a Telecaster. I got some PIO caps off ebay that are the same as LUX. Here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/015-uf-Vintage-Russian-Paper-in-Oil-Capacitor-K40Y-9-LP-335-SG-NEW-OLD-STOCK-/221635091787 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/015-uf-Vintage-Russian-Paper-in-Oil-Capacitor-K40Y-9-LP-335-SG-NEW-OLD-STOCK-/221635091787)
These are nice and the same guy has the .22 as well. Check out his other things. He has some nice items.
I prefer the CTS pots because I am familiar with the taper. I use 50's gibson wiring which is brighter than the Modern wiring or should be. I do not like resistors because I am not looking brighter. We are speaking Humbuggies here.
I do not like coil taps. To me they never really sound good and I have spent too much time trying when grabbing a single coil guitar is easier. I have tested all kinds of caps and resistors. Even the bumblebees. I do loosen the pot up first by bending the tabs up a little so they spin easily. I used to get the EVH versions till I found out they are just loosened.
I do have Les Paul and 335 wired so the top pot is the bridge pup volume so I can ride it to do swells and the 50's wiring allows either volume pot to kill the volume.
If you want to try something different, put a cap in series with a 470 ohm resistor. This will keep the treble up some when you roll back and avoid a volume hump.
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Thanks Ed
I got a pot question?? I've done some research but can't come up with an answer so far.
On all CTS pots that I find for sale individually have an indention on the back like in the pix below and you can see what appears to be the end of the rear of shaft in the indentation. Some of the pre-wired harnesses I'm looking at advertise CTS pots but if you look at the pots, the back side has a CTS stamped in it but the back is completely flat(no indentation) that is shown in the pix of the harness below. What's up with this??? are these cheap fake CTS pots in the harness?? Platefire
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Thanks Ed
I got a pot question?? I've done some research but can't come up with an answer so far.
On all CTS pots that I find for sale individually have an indention on the back like in the pix below and you can see what appears to be the end of the rear of shaft in the indentation. Some of the pre-wired harnesses I'm looking at advertise CTS pots but if you look at the pots, the back side has a CTS stamped in it but the back is completely flat(no indentation) that is shown in the pix of the harness below. What's up with this??? are these cheap fake CTS pots in the harness?? Platefire
Cheap, yes. Fake no. CTS makes quite a few versions.
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OK, Thanks Ed
Trying to resist the urge to order any electronics until I pull existing out first. I think I could have a lot better idea what to go back in with after seeing that. I know that taking my time and being patient is the best practice, I just find it hard to perform it. Platefire
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Well I had to pull off of this until after Christmas/New Year but all the company has gone home, took all the exterior lights and ornaments down and put them up and kinda getting back to normal sorta. So I'm getting back to my 335 wiring.
I picked up some aquarium air lines from wally world to use to fish pots/switch through F hole. I found the hose fits the old Chinese 3/16" shafts ok but the CTS 1/4" shafts, they were too little and couldn't force them on. I ended up going to Auto Zone and got some vacuum hose that fit the 1/4" shafts but latter found the outside diameter is too big to get the nut/washers over.
I went back and did some experimenting and found if I used the tapered shaft of a nail punch and slightly heat it up under the stove cook top flame, I could stretch the aquarium plastic tubing enough to fit over the 1/4" shaft. I also took an old guitar cord and made a puller for the 1/4" jack. Had to grind on it a little off the jack sleeve to get it small enough for the bolt to slip over.
Also I used some vacuum hose to go over the switch shaft with plastic tip on and think it will work with the bigger switch hole. So I think I'm ready to pull all the electronics out. I decided I wouldn't order the new electronics until I pulled the old out and looked at it and get a feel for the situation. I want to re-read this thread and all the tips and advice before I go any further. I really want to do a good job on this 335c so I'm trying to take my time and do it right. Platefire
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Dan Earlywine was using surgical tubing just like your doing.
Great minds think alike!
Brad :icon_biggrin:
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Well I admit I got the idea from a tip from a friend. I've been told several different methods and this one I liked the best----we will see how it goes! Platefire
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OK, here is some pixs with everything pulled.
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For some strange reason I'm reminded of the joke about the monkey that was told "do not to pull the cork out of the elephant's ass." I know. I'm sick! :l2:
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:l2:
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So you think I did it anyway :dontknow: All I can say without any Battle there can't be no Victory. Its like the man trapped way down in the well, they kept throwing manure on him till finally he walked out :happy1: :happy1:
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No reflection on you at all Platefire. That's a good idea. Seeing those pics though triggered a 40 year old memory and I just thought I'd share. I see some others have that memory hidden away also. The image of that monkey trying to put the cork back in is pretty unforgettable! :icon_biggrin:
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Man! You hurt my Feelings :sad2: cry--cry--cry. Shame on you for 30 minuets or even maybe 45 :cussing:
I'm pretty old and never heard about no cork and elephant??? Sounds like a dangerous proposition!
FWIW---I needed to make some kind of decision to proceed so I ordered a new pre-wired wiring harness
with Bourns pots and PIO vintage Russian Caps. Sounds good anyway, we'll see how it works out!!??
http://www.ebay.com/itm/191483835629?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT (http://www.ebay.com/itm/191483835629?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)
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There are several slightly different versions of this joke. They all have the same punch line. Do a google search for "monkey and constipated elephant".
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Well I got all my parts in but-------- :dontknow: tell me, how do you ream out the pot holes with all these tubes struck through them?????
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Pull all that spaghetti out of the way. Ream holes. Reinsert spaghetti. Start with the spaghetti hole farthest from the f-hole.
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You could use markers of different colors on the spaghetti tubes to know which hole they go back in if you take them out?
Brad :think1:
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Yeah your right! Nothing else to do but pull out the tubing, enlarge the holes and feed it back through buy hook or crook.
It will be easy figuring out which hole the tubing came from, just blow through the tubing and where the air is coming out is the one :l2: :l2: just a lot of hot air. We'll get their sooner or latter---slow boat to china :offtheair:
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My solution has been to use string (not tubing). Use a long enough string(s). Put a string down the hole into the guitar body. Grab it with an appropriate tool and pull it up through the f-hole; then tie it to a component. I use a slip knot around the shaft of a component. Drop the component into the f-hole. Pull the string on the other end to pull the component to its hole. "Monkey" :icon_biggrin: the component up though the hole & undo the string.
I've done this one component at a time. But I guess you could do all at once. I'd tie something to the "pull" end of ea string so it can't fall though its hole into the guitar.
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Well I accomplished it today but I had a dickens of a time. The first time would have been good but somehow the input jack was too small, so I has to pull it all out again. I had problems every time I put the electronics in for several times. After about the fourth time I finally made it. I tell you what, it wasn't a good experience at all but I'm glad it's back together and working. The pre-wired harness I bought for it was well put together. If it wasn't it would have been destroyed after all I put it through today. What testing I've done on it. I'm real happy with the sound. Of course after what I went through today, I feel like I been through the meat grinder. I will much be able to better analyze the results after I've put some space in between this experience and a good nights sleep. Platefire
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Yeah, I would NOT want to pull out and reinstall a wiring harness in a 335 type guitar.
Good job Plate!!!!!!
Brad :bravo1:
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Thanks! I think I'm up for the "I rewired a 335 and Lived" T-Shirt. After a good nights rest I fired it up this morning. What an improvement in sound. I was noticing this morning on the neck pickup where I had some low end flab on the old pickups when playing around the open big E/A low notes/strings--it's all gone, just clear notes. I was concerned that the SD Sh-1 59's might be a little bright and harsh from some of the reviews I've read but I've tried them on a couple of amps and not brash at all. I was wanting a big, fat and round vintage sounding 335 and it appears I may have it. Platefire
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Thanks! I think I'm up for the "I rewired a 335 and Lived" T-Shirt.
:laugh:
Glad they are sounding great to you.
Brad :icon_biggrin:
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We'll I played with my Church Praise Band today and am just really impressed with the SD SH-1's. They are even more than I expected. There is no quirkiness, harshness, flabby lows or treble peaks, just good round clear tone with enough edge to cut through. I thinking these are the best sounding humbuckers I've played over in my experience.
This really makes me question the performance of the Golden Age Parson St pickups. The were kind of quirky and did have treble peaks. Just wasn't smooth and round as the SD's.
I do think I know why I got them for so cheap. I think they were manufactured incorrectly and the seller got a good deal on them. The leads I think were cut incorrect length. The bridge lead was longer than the neck lead and it should have been the other way around. I just barely had enough lead to hook it up to the neck volume pot. No slack left what so ever. Platefire
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We'll I played with my Church Praise Band today and am just really impressed with the SD SH-1's. They are even more than I expected.
Hey Plate, just stopping back to say thanks for the update.
I'm still sitting on mine, but now I'm itchin to get em in, after reading your results.
Glad to hear your work paid off!
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Hay your welcome! I know it's just a ARIA Chinese copy, boy when I play it now, it's like the real thing. From the real 335's I have come in contact with over the years, this seems to me like a close runner up.
Need to say thanks to Ed because of his his input along the way to help steer me in the right direction on pups,caps, wire & pots. Thanks Ed!
Platefire