WIth the Hammond 290Cax I still have in the box I hope I can use this PT. Its 330-0-330 @ 115ma or (275-0-275 with lower B+taps)/6.3v @2A and 5v@2A.
I like the 5E5A for th3 15" can you hear me know speaker. The Rectifier on the 5E5A is the 5u4G and has the 6L6's instead off 6V6's(That could work?)
You have a BOM list floating around?
Sorry I wasn't clearer, I meant a list of things for the 5G9 you built.
I found your old thread :thumbsup: thanks mate.
Yeah Gatemouth was great!Would you believe that I played with him many times at a old blues club we used to have here in Atlanta. The place was called The Northside Tavern. Tinsley Ellis is a great friend and I played with him often in the old days and another guy I cant remember his last mane, but his first name is Johnny and he always played a Gold Glitter Telecaster.
I saw him up close (~25'?) in a club that held ~350(?) in the early 90's(?) playin on his Firebird. He still had it.
Brad :icon_biggrin:
I'll Be The Guinea Pig and hopefully we can get a 5G9 going. I will have about a $900.00 budget to start and I'd like to keep that here with Doug's business. I know he doesn't sell the chassis or cabinet and speaker but that's OK. I think I'll use the 5E5-A 1x12 or 15" because that chassis will work and its the narrow tweed cab and correct size speaker I believe. I'd love all the input like the Vox build, Between Sluckey, Ed, Doug, etc.... We got a legit AC 15 build with people building them now. This is what Id like to do again with the 5G9 :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: So I will contact Doug on making me a 5G9 eyelet board on the turret board material. Start a BOM(I will Gladly take all recommendations on Parts) keeping as much parts as possible this site. Time to go and do weekend things(errands) Tonight hopefully I'll do some ordereingNotice Brad made a different layout and used Panasonic radials. Very cool layout and a smudge :icon_biggrin: different from the original.
Would you believe that I played with him many times at a old blues club we used to have here in Atlanta. The place was called The Northside Tavern. Tinsley Ellis is a great friend and I played with him often in the old days and another guy I cant remember his last mane, but his first name is Johnny and he always played a Gold Glitter Telecaster.
I have a 5G9 I built
I dont know what the difference is in the tremolo hitting the front or mixed later in the circuit.
I have a 5E5 pro circuit I have put together on my bench right now. It is really nice I have to say. It has a 6K primary at 8 ohms on the OT and I believe this is the one that is 35 watts. I thought the 5E5a was the 40 watt.
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Notice Brad made a different layout and used Panasonic radials. Very cool layout and a smudge :icon_biggrin: different from the original.
The 5G9 handles humbuckers a LOT better in the stock form. Don't know why as I have never compared the schematics. The tone is more focused as the bottom is not as greasy. Smooth distortion and moves into distortion slower, more gradual.
Here is a Google doc spread sheet I start but haven't finished.
If you have part#'s you would like me to add from different mfr's (PT/OT/CHOKE)as an example, I will add it to list.
The Iron I used was an old Thodarson NOS 300-0-300, 120ma / 6.3 @ 2a / 5v @ 3
I used a OT from a Hammond tone cabinet. Don't know the Manufacturer, but it is 10K/8ohm and it had a great tone. I tried a Stancor 6k6 / 8 ohm, too much too clean.
I will write those numbers down and do some research today. My 4 year old daughter just got over being sick and in the hospital and my 8 year old daughter woke up in the middle off the night throwing up
I used the current calculator and your right, those numbers might be flipped. The 5y3 was less then the 5u4gb.
I believe enough amps for the 6.3 volt & 5 volt heaters.
So the -50v bias goes to a 1n4007(since sel rectifier) are no longer.
For the .03uf-400v capacitor in this build, what would you recommend to use? Schem shows +270vdc going through, I can only find Jupiter cap$$$ or I could stack .02&.01in parallel to get the .03. Also the .005 on the tone cap to ground. I'll will use a silver mica that goes from tone to vol pot thoughDoug has a .033uf/630v Orange drop.
For the .03uf-400v capacitor in this build, what would you recommend to use?
The 1 watt resistors on the sockets I'll bump up to 3watts........ and the 100k I'll be using in series with the IN4007
I didn't see a 50v bias tap on that 272dx, this one looks about right
http://www.hammondmfg.com/pdf/EDB372FX.pdf. (http://www.hammondmfg.com/pdf/EDB372FX.pdf.) It's 120$ at mouser
That's tight Wallibe mentioned that the 6.3 or the 5volt didn't have enough amperage.
to a 3mra
The only reason why I am changing that to a 3mra is because I cant locate one :cry:I know that. My answer pertains to your question about how to wire the pot.
Hammond 290Cax...
6.3v/2a is perfect for this amp.
5v @ 2a is fine too, just don't use a 5U4. Plenty of other 5xxx rectifiers to choose from.
The choice of which HT winding to use can be a plus factor.
If I choose to buy a PT then why not buy the one that's made to those specs and allow me to use a 5u4.
Back when I was building Hot Rod Chevy's and driving them sometimes I would come up to another Chevy and we'd swap stories. When we open the hoods I'd have my Chevy engine in my Chevy car and they'd have a Mopar Hemi in their Chevy. It's not a Chevy if it ain't 100%. It does makes one hell of a Hot Rod but it's different.
I was just reading up on a LouisElectric Tremolux based amp and he has the 5AR4/GZ34 Rectifier in it. hopefully today Ill pick up a OT and Chassis.I still am a little undecided on which Pt to get??? I will more then likely go with theI have a theory that has served me very well. When in doubt, lower the voltage. The trans you mentioned will work fine, but Edcor has one with a 50v bias tap. Just takes a little while to get it.Mojo768sp from here
I was just reading up on a LouisElectric Tremolux based amp and he has the 5AR4/GZ34 Rectifier in it.
so looking at how the PR does its bias off the intensity pot seems like to much work out figure out and I don't want to deviate off the circuitThe circuits are exactly the same! The bias voltage is fed thru the intensity pot on both amps. The only difference is the 5G9 uses a bias tap for it's source of AC voltage and the PR uses the HT winding as a source for AC voltage. That means you would use a big resistor (100K to 220K) between the HT winding and the bias diode rather than no resistor with the bias tap (or as I recommended, 470Ω like many of the AB763 amps use).
I would then not have to use that triangular portion, it's inly for the Bias.
I drew out two different ways and as I was drawing I could see how it might not work.
Thanks for those voltages, that will help me out when I get there.
Question? Your Vac&Vdc are the same for the 5Y3?
I did a 5G9 using a PT with a 300-0-300 HT (@150mA) and a 3A 5V winding. Using a 5U4 and 40uF reservoir, I got 580V B+.
I did a 5G9 using a PT with a 300-0-300 HT (@150mA) and a 3A 5V winding. Using a 5U4 and 40uF reservoir, I got 580V B+.You sure 'bout that? The maximum you could possibly get would be √2 x 300 = 424vdc. And that's with no load.
This time of year when humidity is at zero and that air is real dry I've encounted zaps touching metal and have had arcs jump out to the fingertip.
I want to make sure I get the right Mercury Mag. They don't show specs on site but I'm pretty sure its the FTTP/M,
and 1 of the heater wires sparked to the K sleeve,
Was it only happening when you would put probe on and off or happening as you kept probe on?
They go from $19-$150 bucks. You have any preference
Iron is hot and populating the board now, will post a progress pic later :icon_biggrin:Have you already drilled your extra holes in the board?
... Damn a.d.d. Sidetracks me
My concern is the way the windings are, if Install OT the way shown the windings are the same direction.
Hey Willibe check this out http://www.rareelectricguitar.com/Rory-Gallagher-Stratocaster-sale_794.html (http://www.rareelectricguitar.com/Rory-Gallagher-Stratocaster-sale_794.html)
If I wanted to keep the tremolo on and not use the foot switch I just put that wire from the 1M to ground instead of tip. I think that's how I did it on Sluckey's A/C 15.No. Don't confuse the AC15 and the 5E9A. They are different. The AC15 has to have a ground from the FS to ENABLE the trem. The 5E9A has to have a ground from the FS to KILL the tremolo.
Where should I tie the two pin 8's?? I was thinking those would just ground to chassisConnect them both to chassis using the same bolt that the PT center taps connect to.
will I have noise issues running it over there?I doubt it. But it's just one wire. Just put it there and see.
I posted a pic here in one of the older replies and will again. My Bias (white/red) wire is 0volts, NOT -50v(is that my problem)
My Bias (white/red) wire is 0volts, NOT -50v(is that my problem)
I noticed that when I tried to adjust bias pot I couldn't get voltage to adjust.
I am using the 5u4gb rectifier. On both pins 2&8 I get 10.31vac & 299vdc.
on the schematic where the -69vac comes in after selenium to 82k resistor I have -51vac.
With ground probe to chassis I measured pin 2 and got 10.31vac and then I measured pin 8 and got 10.31.
What I noticed on my PT, where the heater wires come out of pt the green 6.3 are a pair together but the yellow 5volts one comes out on one side of winding and the other yellow comes out of other side.
...With ground probe to chassis I measured pin 2 and got 10.31vac and then I measured pin 8 and got 10.31.Your meter is actually measuring the "ripple" voltage of the rectified B+. If your meter can also measure frequency, set it to do so and you'll see that 'AC' is really 120Hz, not 60Hz line freq.
My fluke can measure frequency, I should measure black to ground and red to B+ for that?Yes, but I was just presenting an explanation for that seemingly odd voltage reading. It's perfectly OK to have that much ripple straight out of the rectifier. There is nothing wrong with your PT. This is not part of your problem.
With the rectifir out I get 5.2 vac across pin 2&8. With ground to chassis and lead to pin 2 I get 5.2. With ground lead to chassis and red lead to p8 I get .9
on the schematic where the -69vac comes in after selenium to 82k resistor I have -51vac.
I hooked the wire straight to where it shows on schematic totally bypassing rectifier and 3watt 470 ohm resistor making the +53 volts I am reading right now on the bare bias wire.
Ok so look what I found so far. You this picture, I was supposed to hook up white/red to where it says CT. I didn't. I hooked the wire straight to where it shows on schematic totally bypassing rectifier and 3watt 470 ohm resistor making the +53 volts I am reading right now on the bare bias wire.Diode is backwards in this pic!
with the red/white wire disconnect from circuit I got +53volts on wire. I was supposed to hook that wire to the 3watt 470resitor which goes into diode which goes to 82k resistor(where original layout has it). You were red/white is hooked up now on board, I got -69vdc. Bias pot doesn't drop it more then that, maybe bigger resistor later or I'll see when I get a load on it. I'm gonna start with 5u4gb nowDiode is correct in this pic.
Cause you the man Sluckey, you made me spin it around
I set bias pot so I have 370vdcB+ off the rectifier p8.:huh: Say what???
475B+ with From rectifier with no power or oreamp tubes in it
I set bias pot so I have 370vdcB+ off the rectifier p8.