Hoffman Amplifiers Tube Amplifier Forum
Other Stuff => Guitars => Topic started by: tubenit on March 05, 2015, 10:10:03 am
-
I ordered a semi-hollow body 335 type guitar kit. Never built a guitar from a kit before so this will be a new experience. I don't have high expectations of this. I'm guessing this will be comparable to maybe an old Silvertone or Kay semi-hollow body from the 60's which can be a fun guitar.
The kit was pretty inexpensive, so I am anticipating "you get what you pay for" type quality.
Having said all that, ............. it was not until AFTER I ordered it that I saw that it comes with a 1&5/8" nut. I usually play a 1& 11/16 and even like a 1& 3/4".
Anyone ever play a 1&5/8" nut width and like it OK? I think maybe some of the Gibson Melody Makers had that? So maybe it will be tolerable.
I am planning on finding a way to have the neck be a bolt on instead of glued in. That way if after a few months, I don't like it .......... I can just build a new neck for it from scratch.
With respect, Tubenit
-
Looks like some Music Man and G&L guitars have 1&5/8" nut
http://www.glguitars.com/instruments/USA/options/guitar.asp (http://www.glguitars.com/instruments/USA/options/guitar.asp)
http://www.music-man.com/instruments/guitars/axis.html (http://www.music-man.com/instruments/guitars/axis.html)
And Schecter guitars and some old Gibby SG's?
Tubenit
-
Smaller necks or narrower necks don't bother me so much because I have small hands--sometimes it makes it better for me. It's you large hand/long finger guys that have the wider fatter necks. So tubenit what is your hand situation?
-
I have hands more like a boxer then a guitarist unfortunately. Wide hands with shorter fingers. Fingers aren't real fat though. Problem is I've inherited ALOT of arthritis in my hands. I think maybe I am 2 yrs older then you are?
Best regards, Jeff
-
I usually make a nut and widen it some on the 1-5/8 nuts. Usually there is plenty of room to get s smidge more. I think in the late 60, like 68 and or 69, Gibson made the 335 with a smaller nut width and it makes the guitars not as collectable for this reason. I believe that says it all.
I prefer a wide nut myself when playing clean and finger style. Wide open distorted rock, doesn't matter as I am barring most of the cords or only playing 3 of the notes. in a 1 and 5/8 nut it is almost impossible for me to play a C chord in the first position cleanly. I do not have those little Eric Johnson fingers.
-
Ed,
Thanks for your thoughts and comments! I appreciate hearing your perspective.
I actually had not considered that there might be some room for a slightly wider nut? I think I actually have a graphite blank nut for a Gibson at home? I'll check and see about that. I've been successful at making a good nut in the past on acoustics. It would be encouraging to me if I can go from 1& 10/16 to 1 & 11/16.
Thanks! Jeff
-
Ed,
Thanks for your thoughts and comments! I appreciate hearing your perspective.
I actually had not considered that there might be some room for a slightly wider nut? I think I actually have a graphite blank nut for a Gibson at home? I'll check and see about that. I've been successful at making a good nut in the past on acoustics. It would be encouraging to me if I can go from 1& 10/16 to 1 & 11/16.
Thanks! Jeff
Thanks for the kind words.
Yes, I have used graphite, but on a Jazz box I believe I might use bone. I began using corian a while back. I have a sheet of the white corian and I just cut it on a table saw and sand it smooth. I can hear a little difference, but not much.
I have a friend who is a Luthier (a well known one). What he does is get the sample corian squares at Home Depot and cuts his nuts from them. Actually kind of cool with the colors available, but the price is great as they will give you them if you ask.
-
My Guyatone LG-200t has a 1 9/16 nut and I can see where a narrow nut would be a challenge if you had big hands. My hands are about average and I can manage.
Ry Cooder plays one on this track (with Manuel Galbαn on Tele) and he does alright:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UguMsdpk2_g (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UguMsdpk2_g&list=RDUguMsdpk2_g#t=347).
-
I am reading Brian May's book on how he and his dad built the "Red Special". They came up with a very ingenious design for the nut as they were trying to make a friction free setup for the wang bar. They used an ordinary fret for the nut position where the strings break over and used a real nut behind it for spacing only as the strings did not touch the bottom of the string slots. Pretty cool! The wang bar design is equally incredible. The book is about the guitar but also a heart-felt story about his dad. I am really enjoying reading it.
Sorry, somewhat off topic. However, if you wanted to do something a little different.... :icon_biggrin:
Jim
-
Here ya go...
-
... I saw that it comes with a 1&5/8" nut. I usually play a 1& 11/16 and even like a 1& 3/4".
Anyone ever play a 1&5/8" nut width and like it OK? I think maybe some of the Gibson Melody Makers had that? So maybe it will be tolerable. ...
It seems a lot of early Fender guitars were 1 5/8". The Warmoth neck on my Tele is 1 5/8" (which I didn't fully understand when I ordered it).
It is fine and feels good for smaller hands... until you try to do any clever fingerpicking stuff, then the close spacing of the strings down in the first 4 gets claustrophobic very fast. I'd like to at least try a Tele neck with a 1 3/4" nut, and maybe wider.
Bottom-line, nut width and neck thickness can be a personal feel preference and anything other than what you use often will feel weird. That said, it's not hard to get used to switching between various guitars with different measurements, but you may find you prefer playing certain things on one guitar over another due to the feel differences.
-
Cool a hollowbody guitar kit!
and that Ry Cooder Guyatone is one pretty guitar!! I want it!
The Aria Fa-71 I just finished fixing up and hot-rodding had a narrow nut spacing making for a cramped left hand
There was room to widen the spacing so I did and it works fine
That would be my vote, easy to do, easy to reverse if you want etc.
I like zero frets (Like the one Brian May used) (my old Gretschs have them it was Chet Atkins idea) but the Guitar has to designed that way from the get go
It's not something you could easily add to a non zero fret guitar . You'd likely need a new or longer fretboard
-
Thanks to everyone for the information and comments! HBP, I didn't know your Tele was 1&5/8". I remember that being a very nice guitar to play with great tone!
Reading about the difference between the 1&5/8" vs. 1&11/16", I actually found quite a few very positive reviews of people liking (& even preferring) the 1&5/8" nut over the 1& 11/16" nut.
http://www.strat-talk.com/forum/stratocaster-discussion-forum/68892-1-5-8-nut-vs-1-11-16-nut.html (http://www.strat-talk.com/forum/stratocaster-discussion-forum/68892-1-5-8-nut-vs-1-11-16-nut.html)
It appears that a 1.65" nut seems to be well liked by many and that is in between 1.625 (1&5/8") and 1.6875 (1&11/16").
So, in light of that and several comments about just cutting a wider nut for the guitar neck, I am thinking I will probably just do a 1.65" nut and be done with it. I have a blank Gibson style graphite nut already and a preslotted Gibson TUSQ style nut also. Not sure what size the TUSQ preslotted one is?
I should get my guitar kit either today or tomorrow. Hopefully it will arrive in decent shape. I will post some comments about how the kit appears after I look at it and see how well the neck fits etc......
Thanks guys! With respect, Tubenit
-
@ Ritchie200: They used an ordinary fret for the nut position where the strings break over and used a real nut behind it for spacing only as the strings did not touch the bottom of the string slots. Pretty cool!
This is called a Zero Fret. (Personally I can't use them. The sight picture completely throws me off. By the 5th fret I'm lost.)
I have big hands, thick fingers and finger tips. 1-9/16" is unplayable for me. I have a few electrics @ 1-5/8; this I think is the old standard. Barely OK for rock & blues for left hand string muting for me. But I can barely play chords with clean notes. OK for slide. 1-11/16 is good for me; seems to be more standard these days. 1-3/4 good for acoustic finger picking, but I don't have such a guitar.
Also neck radius. Can't get a clean barre @ 15" - flat radius. This includes my Martin D28. :BangHead: 12" - 14" is good for me. By 9.5" I tend to fret out bending strings past the 12th fret. 7.25" is unplayable for me.
-
OK, here is the 335 type kit that I bought:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Semi-Hollow-Body-DIY-Electric-Guitar-Builder-Kit-with-Mahogany-Unfinished-New-/111454583141?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19f335f965 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Semi-Hollow-Body-DIY-Electric-Guitar-Builder-Kit-with-Mahogany-Unfinished-New-/111454583141?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19f335f965)
There is not much sanding to do at all. I will sand highlighting the flame maple on top and that's about it. The flamed maple is actually
pretty decent appearance quality & pretty much like in the picture, but it is a veneer that is just incredibly thin. Not much thicker then thick computer paper. It would be very easy to sand thru it with an electric sander.
The middle of the nut on my good Tele's are about 1.675". The nut on this guitar turned out to be 1.647". It does look like I can replace the nut and have a little bit to work with to widen the string spacing, so I am anticipating the neck will work out just fine for me.
At first fretwire: Tele 1.719" 335 1.689"
At second fretwire Tele 1.749" 335 1.735"
At third fretwire Tele 1.781" 335 1.774"
The pickups are 9.56k for the neck and 10.25k for the bridge. I wish they were less resistance. I ordered some replacement Alnico II magnetic bars for $7 total and will replace the magnets for each pickup. I think this will head the tone more the direction I want.
I am thinking the guitar will need the tuners upgraded but I am not planning to do anything else at this point but that.
Hopefully, I will dye and sunburst the guitar body this weekend and then start the lacquering. I'll use urethane on the neck.
With respect, Tubenit
-
@ Ritchie200: They used an ordinary fret for the nut position where the strings break over and used a real nut behind it for spacing only as the strings did not touch the bottom of the string slots. Pretty cool!
This is called a Zero Fret. (Personally I can't use them. The sight picture completely throws me off. By the 5th fret I'm lost.)
I thought with the Zero Fret the strings break over at the fret AND the nut? That is how my first electric guitar is set up (Japanese Audition from the 60's). After looking at that for so many years, I guess I just never thought of using the nut to only space the strings. Probably another misinterpreted definition by me! I learn something new every time I come here! Thanks!
Jim
-
Hey, a Zero Fret is a Zero Fret. . . what you do with your nuts is another story! :l2:
-
@ Ritchie200: They used an ordinary fret for the nut position where the strings break over and used a real nut behind it for spacing only as the strings did not touch the bottom of the string slots. Pretty cool!
This is called a Zero Fret. (Personally I can't use them. The sight picture completely throws me off. By the 5th fret I'm lost.)
I have big hands, thick fingers and finger tips. 1-9/16" is unplayable for me. I have a few electrics @ 1-5/8; this I think is the old standard. Barely OK for rock & blues for left hand string muting for me. But I can barely play chords with clean notes. OK for slide. 1-11/16 is good for me; seems to be more standard these days. 1-3/4 good for acoustic finger picking, but I don't have such a guitar.
Also neck radius. Can't get a clean barre @ 15" - flat radius. This includes my Martin D28. :BangHead: 12" - 14" is good for me. By 9.5" I tend to fret out bending strings past the 12th fret. 7.25" is unplayable for me.
All I can say is +1.
I have an old Tele with 7.25" radius and the high action is ridiculous. I do like a "0" fret as third intervals sound better (tune) and I am usually playing clean.
Jeff, I look forward to seeing what you come up with.
-
OK, here is the 335 type kit that I bought:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Semi-Hollow-Body-DIY-Electric-Guitar-Builder-Kit-with-Mahogany-Unfinished-New-/111454583141?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19f335f965 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Semi-Hollow-Body-DIY-Electric-Guitar-Builder-Kit-with-Mahogany-Unfinished-New-/111454583141?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19f335f965)
There is not much sanding to do at all. I will sand highlighting the flame maple on top and that's about it. The flamed maple is actually
pretty decent appearance quality & pretty much like in the picture, but it is a veneer that is just incredibly thin. Not much thicker then thick computer paper. It would be very easy to sand thru it with an electric sander.
The middle of the nut on my good Tele's are about 1.675". The nut on this guitar turned out to be 1.647". It does look like I can replace the nut and have a little bit to work with to widen the string spacing, so I am anticipating the neck will work out just fine for me.
At first fretwire: Tele 1.719" 335 1.689"
At second fretwire Tele 1.749" 335 1.735"
At third fretwire Tele 1.781" 335 1.774"
The pickups are 9.56k for the neck and 10.25k for the bridge. I wish they were less resistance. I ordered some replacement Alnico II magnetic bars for $7 total and will replace the magnets for each pickup. I think this will head the tone more the direction I want.
I am thinking the guitar will need the tuners upgraded but I am not planning to do anything else at this point but that.
Hopefully, I will dye and sunburst the guitar body this weekend and then start the lacquering. I'll use urethane on the neck.
With respect, Tubenit
Dang it, now you got me interested. Looking at the kits, most do not even give nut width. I do like the one with tuner pegs inline with the nut, but still has enough room to make a Gibson open book headstock. How cool is that?
-
OK, I got the sunburst done on the guitar body. AND I put a veneer of quilted maple on the headstock.
The body kit came with too much glue on the outside of the wood in places. That's a real challenge on this guitar as the maple veneer is so super thin. Having said that ............... so far I am reasonably please with the guitar.
I ordered some Gotoh tuners and a Gotoh bridge and a different strap button. And I plan to replace the humbucker pickup magnets with Alnico II. So, some minor upgrades to the original kit.
When the smoke clears, I should have about $230 to $250 total in the guitar. The kit was $161 shipped.
I should mention, I am planning to bolt the neck on using 5 bolts. There are some T-nuts on the base of the neck tenon.
With respect, Tubenit
-
Looks real nice!
Brad :icon_biggrin:
-
Looks Good Tubenit! Kinda Ice Teaish.
-
Nice job on the sunburst!!
I like them like a nice lighter sunburst
That looks like a lot of fun!
Bravo!
-
Thanks for your nice comments!
I am using a new lacquer that I have never used before spraying this. It's this new Min-wax lacquer. If you count bass guitars & acoustics also ........ I've built 23 guitars (IIRC). I've always used Deft Clear Wood finish before which has given me a very high gloss and VERY clear transparent finish. The Deft polishes extremely well in my experience and a few months out has been very durable. I think the Deft lacquer has some urethane or something mixed in with it?
This new Min-Wax lacquer seems to be a thicker lacquer and so far is leaving a very smooth finish. Not sure yet how transparent the lacquer will eventually be. Will keep you guys posted about this.
I will say after 4 spray coats of lacquer, the flamed veneer is really popping out more.
With respect, Tubenit
-
You got the color of the sunburst just perfect! Looking forward to seeing the shiny finish.
-
Great finish! Could we cajole you into a tutorial? :worthy1:
-
Tutorial condensed version. Dan Erlwine has a great book on this.
Sand body down to 220 grit.
"Pop" the flame by applying water based analine dye to top. Sand off the dye. Repeat 2-3 times. The flames now start looking MUCH more pronounced.
If open grain wood like mahogany and you want it filled: I prefer to dye the back and sides, then add wood filler, sand smooth and dye it again. Others will fill, sand and dye. Sometimes I leave it open grained & just dye it.
I only use a t-shirt rag for the sunburst as I like the burst to be subtle and fade from one color to another and NOT have a crisp spray line. I've sprayed a burst and did not like it and sanded it off and started over. I don't like the crisp line type sunbursts on Fender guitars or on some Carvin guitars. Particularly the black edged sunbursts. Look at PRS or Tom Anderson guitars for an idea for a good sunburst. Print off a picture and have it displayed near your work bench as a reference.
I mix up my water based analine dye to my preference and have tested it on scrap wood. I simply dip the rag into the dye and wipe it on to the wood gently using a circular motion. (I only use alcohol analine dye for a solid red guitar)
To do the bursts like I do them. You need yellow, amber, red, and a brown (with some red in it). Those 4 colors will give you lots and lots of options to mix.
The sunburst: Analine dye with weak yellow dye. Lightly sand. Analine dye with amber. Sand again and then reapply amber a 2nd time. These are across all the top. This is part of the "popping" the flame stuff I refered to.
Mix your accent darker color to taste. Do a first pass application around edges of about 1 inch. Now take a t-shirt rag and gently fade that from inside to outside edge. Now do a 2nd pass about 1.5" - 2" and fade from inside to outside again. This will leave you a color change that darkens as it moves to the edge with the yellow/amber burst in the middle of the top.
Now take a slightly water dampened t-shirt rag and soak it with Windex. Yes, Windex! Start in middle and wipe to edges. Continue doing this until you have a gentle sunburst fade that is subtle. Then you look at it and wipe and fade wherever you feel like it helps the appearance to get a finished sunburst that you like. Let it dry for about 20 minutes and come back with a slightly water dampened rag & apply Windex again and wipe down the entire guitar starting with the top in the middle to edges.
I use two rags for two colors on the top and a different rag (for a total of 3) for the side/backs. I use several more rags for the water/Windex wiping.
This is NOT hard to do. You just have to use your eyes to shape the sunburst to what you want. It takes me about 15-20 minutes to dye a guitar with a sunburst top using a rag.
Let it dry overnight. The next morning it will look pretty washed out, faded, 1 dimensional and like a failure. It's not !
(if you did it right). It will take about 4-7 coats of lacquer to restore the brilliance and intensity of the color and figured wood.
I use Deft Clear Wood finish and after 7 coats sand very lightly with 320-400 grit. Add 7 more coats and same thing.
Add 7 more coats for about 21 coats total. This takes 2-3 spray cans.
At 21 coats I start sanding with 800 grit and go to 1000-1200 grit using a block sander which is very critical. A good flat orbital sander will work as a start. Then I use blocks of wood with sandpaper. This is ALL done wet sanding. You must stop and wipe the top numerous times with a dry towel to check the sanding.
When the "orange peel" is sanded out, you will probably have about 12 coats of lacquer thickness left and half of the initial lacquer has been sanded off.
By hand, I use blocks of wood covered with t-shirt rags and McGuire's auto polish. And I polish very very very gently in circular motions until a glassy super high gloss that looks wet. It takes about 3 hrs minimum to polish a guitar top for me. I do very little polishing on sides and back. I don't care if they look more semi-gloss.
With respect, Jeff
-
Thanks for this info! Didn't know a burst could be done with wiping. I've been totally intimidated by spraying: technique, equipment, fumes, spray booth, etc. I have none of these things! Guess I should get the Erlewine book.
I've been putting off a refinish on an Ibanez Blazer strat-like body. I've got a dark burst Carvin neck for it. So I need to strip the body and dark burst it. The water based method should be free of fumes; home & wife friendly, I guess.
If I understand this: you apply water-based dye with only a wipe-on method, no spraying.
I assume you're using water based Deft. How do you apply the Deft?
-
Yes, all analine dye I've used on 21 electrics were done with wiping with a rag. Only spray attempt was sanded off and I redid it with a rag. Analine has no more odor to me than root beer or ice tea. Much less odor then the Windex. No mask needed for it using a rag. I suspect it is the same stuff as Rit Dye for T-shirts and such.
I use aerosol cans of Deft Clear Wood Finish. My understanding it is some type of nitrocellulose lacquer that something added to it? IIRC, at one point the lacquer cans had nitrocellulose lacquer written on the label. Possibly some type of urethane is what I was told might be added. Don't know if that's correct? It is NOT water based at all to my understanding.
ON this semi-hollow body, I am trying Min-wax lacquer for the first time. Not sure it is as clear as the Deft Clear Wood Finish and it seems to be thicker and may need fewer coats.
With respect, Jeff
-
OK, I took the humbucking pickups and changed out the magnet on them for Alnico II magnets. Pretty easy to do & I checked them for resistance after the process and everything is showing successful. Magnets were $5. Thought I'd try that before replacing the magnets.
Now that I know how to do it, I could probably do it again in maybe 30 min or less.
with respect, Tubenit
-
Thanks for that awesome writeup on how you do your sunbursts! I've also always been intimidated to try this because, like jjasilli, I thought it all needed to be sprayed also!
It really looks to me like the hardest part is really the clear coat. That looks like a lot of work but based on your photos, it really pays off.
When you spray on the clear Deft coats, do you mask-off the neck pocket and the pickup/control holes so you don't fill them with goop?
What about the binding? Did you mask that off or does the dye not stick to it?
-
On bolt on guitars, I do not mask off the neck pocket. You would mask off on a glue in neck.
No, I don't mask off the pickup cavities.
No, I don't mask off the binding. It will be carefully scraped clean. There are some excellent YouTubes showing how to do this.
With respect, Tubenit
-
Awesome thanks. This thread is filed-away in my memory banks for when I finally decide to tackle a guitar kit!
-
OK, I spent some time scraping the bindings. It actually went quite quickly and was fairly easy to do. Maybe 25 min?
Just have a few more coats to put on, then I'll let it sit for a few weeks and then polish it out.
Tubenit
-
On bolt on guitars, I do not mask off the neck pocket. You would mask off on a glue in neck.
No, I don't mask off the pickup cavities.
No, I don't mask off the binding. It will be carefully scraped clean. There are some excellent YouTubes showing how to do this.
With respect, Tubenit
FWIW: I built a "Strat" with a licensed body, finished. With the extra thickness added by finish overspray in the neck pocket, the neck wouldn't fit. I contrived a jig and used a sanding drum on a dremel tool mounted in a router-like base to remove the finish in the neck pocket. PIA. I wish they had masked it.
-
Looks great. Dang, you've built 23 guitars :worthy1:
I "built' a Tele a few years back and nitro'd it. No kit. By built of course I mean somoene gave me a precut poplar Tele body, I sourced the parts and installed them but this is not to be confused with building a neck, gluign and leveling frets etc... I only mention this for I typed up a tutorial on the painstaking process. I about tore my rotator cuffs it seems while nitroing that thing and I probably will never do another but it was fun....most of the time anyway. If anyone were to want me to post this I'd be happy to. As usual it is the errors one learns from the most vesus the success. What not to do is almost as important as what to do.
At any rate, it looks fantastic Tubenit.
-
Yes, please post the nitro process.
-
Started polishing the lacquer today. I don't think the min-wax lacquer is as transparent as the Deft Clear wood finish. It does spray on smoother and it builds up quicker. So, it is something of a trade off. I don't think it will have that totally clear wet look that the Deft does.
I did get it worked out to bolt the neck on and it seems to be quite sturdy!
With respect, Tubenit
-
OK, it's finished except for a new graphite nut and I am going to use.
I like the tone of the pickups very much. I replaced the magnets with Alnico 2. This was maybe a $7 mod? IIRC
I replaced the tuners & didn't even try the originals. I replaced the bridge with an adjustable Gotoh.
I bought an inexpensive hardshell case for it.
Original kit was $161. I probably have a little less then $300 into it with the new graphite nut.
I made it a bolt on neck because I wasn't sure if I'd like the neck or not. However, I love the neck! It has a super nice feel to it and frets out just fine with good intonation. Surprised me quite a bit. It's a 24& 3/4 scale, so bending strings is very easy.
I may reposition one pickup to sit under the strings a tiny bit better. I need to hide the wiring in the f-hole.
Overall, I am very happy with the guitar. Only downside is that it has a tiny buzz similar to a single coil guitar. This may be because of an unshielded cavity?
With respect, Tubenit
-
OK, and now for something totally goofy .......................
This is how I bolted on the neck. On the back side, I had to make my own steel neck plates. (yes, two of them). It looks very Silvertonish, Airline-ish, Teisco-ish .................... but it works well!
With respect, Tubenit
-
Only downside is that it has a tiny buzz similar to a single coil guitar. This may be because of an unshielded cavity?
amazing work - its a credit to you!!
What wiring scheme are you using? Sometimes it takes a few attempts to quieten these down, and (imo) they are my least favourite body to re-wire - tweezer central!
I had one epiphone i must a done 5 or 6 times and it buzzed like crazy until in the end I made up two shielded boxes for the pickups lined with copper tape - it wasnt silent but seemed to help. other than that make sure there;s no ground loops, give it one way out only.... but you probably already did that!!
nice job
-
Thanks for the comments and thoughts about buzz.
I did NOT use any shielded wiring except from the pickups to the pots. I think I am going to add shielded wiring from switch to output jack and maybe one other spot and see if that makes a difference.
For those who followed the info about sunbursting and lacquering on this thread. I used the Min-wax lacquer and I don't know what type of lacquer it is. It did spray very smoothly. I used 400 grit sandpaper to sand after about 7 spray coats. 7 coats - sand- 7 more- sand- etc...
When it was done, I waited about 3 weeks to sand and polish. It probably took me less then an hour to sand the top using 1000 grit paper. I polished for about 20 min and then waited til next day and polished it about 45 more minutes. It was glassy smooth, but the finish was not super clear with the wet look which I think was an issue with the lacquer. The Deft clear wood finish is a clearer lacquer, IMO.
The Min-wax lacquer is less work then the Deft clear wood finish. Easier to use too.
with respect, Tubenit
-
NIce!
Must've been fun and very gratifying!
-
Tubenit - Beautiful burst!
did you mask the f-holes? I'd think scraping those would be difficult.
Chip
-
No, I did not mask the f-holes. Not an issue at all. Remember I was using a clear coat. And the analine dye wiped off without a problem.
I've replaced the nut with a graphite nut and set the intonation. The guitar plays like a dream! Unbelievably nice quality tone and feel to the guitar for about $250 or so with upgrades.
Changed pickups magnets out
Installed Gotoh tuners
Installed Gotah bridge
Installed graphite nut.
With respect, Tubenit
-
Personally
I'm not so surprised it turned out nice
You did a great job!!
(oops had to edit, I was riding my hobby horse!)
-
Haven't checked-in on this thread in a while and I have to say, Tubenit, you did a mighty fine job on that guitar.
-
Loaned my semi-hollow body out to a pro musician I know & he wants one ................ so I ordered another kit and am building it for him for parts cost only with free labor since he is something of a friend and really decent guy. He is really a great player & an amazing vocalist! Can play numerous instruments quite well.
Using waterfall bubinga veneer on the headstock. It's got that iridescent cracker jacks toy "winky" thing going on with the quilt in it where it shows up and disappears in the lighting.
That guitar has quite a bit of figuring in the maple (over mahogany body) for a $170 (free shipping) guitar kit.
Only have a couple of coats of lacquer on it. Going to do this one as a bolt on neck also.
With respect, Tubenit
-
Hay tubnit, your work is Beautiful! Great Job. What I'm wondering now that you've had it a while and had opportunity to tweak it to your likings----how do you enjoy playing it? Can you do your thing successfully on it? Platefire
-
I've played the guitar in post #38 quite a bit and love it. Fun guitar.
I am more used to a 25.5" scale and so playing a 23.75" scale has been an adjustment for me. In some ways, I think I am a little bit more creative in my playing with the 335.
Best regards, Jeff
-
Being a cabinet maker, I'd say you did a great job. I use dye stains all the time but your method of applying is a little different then mine for a sunburst, I think you just taught an old dog a new trick. I usually spray the dye, let it dry then rub it out a little. I usually have the problem of dry lines between the coats (if I use a rag where the dye stain dries), leaving a slight line. You have a good touch. Very nice finish.
I usually thin the lacquer a little more for the first few coats with lacquer thinner or a slow drying solution. I use a per-catalyzed lacquer, not as hard as a catalyzed (where you add hardener and use in 24 hours). There is a brand made by "M.L. Campbell", called "Magnalac", it's a pre-catalyed lacquer, just thin it and use right out of the can (it's actually pretty thick so you thin it a little more than usual). Comes in various glosses. the more gloss the harder the finish. Takes around 30 days to fully cure but in 24 hours it's 80% as hard as it gets so put the guitar together a few days after spraying.
Adding a slow drying agent gives a better finish, no fish eyes, no dimples, levels nice and dries a little slower giving the lacquer a chance to even out.
As far as the neck width, I'm with Ed, use the 1 5/8" width but cut a new nut cheating a bit on the width, this gives me the room to get my bigger fingers down the neck, I never had a problem with the strings falling off the board either as long as I didn't get too extreme.
You probably already did all this, so for a guy who is used to 1 11/16, how was the new nut on the 1 5/8?
al
-
so for a guy who is used to 1 11/16, how was the new nut on the 1 5/8?
Worked great with new nut spreading the strings a little wider. I like it just fine.
As an FYI, I use T-shirt rags for the different colors and wet rags and Windex to blend the color changes.
With respect, Tubenit
-
Updated photo. got about 5 more coats of lacquer to put on and then polish.
Tubenit
-
Oh man, look at those huge finger marks at the bottom of the guitar!!! What did you do?!?!
Jim :icon_biggrin:
-
look at those huge finger marks at the bottom of the guitar!!! What did you do?!?!
:think1:
What!!! This is from a guy whose avatar shows someone flinging a broken guitar into a crowd?? :l2: :laugh:
We need to start a new line of insults since the Tele - strat thing has grown to old.
How about I take 335's as the "good" guitar and you can have the Fender Starcastor as the "other" guitar?
Best regards, ................ Jeff
-
Well it could be a shadow from when you took the picture....I guess. I, however, would like to think it is a handprint from a guy who insists on playing a guitar (a tele) that forces you to be ham-handed in operation and that muscle memory probably overlaps into your daily life! You haven't realized it yet, but I have been trying all these years to put you on the path of recovery!
Jim :icon_biggrin:
-
Oh, and how DARE you call the person in my avatar "someone"!!!! I thought I taught you better, Grasshopper!
Jim :BangHead:
-
So, ............. is the guy like "famous" or something? :dontknow:
:m8
-
I think that's Bob Dylan at his first show during his electric daze!
-
Back to tubenit's guitar photo, looks to me like he caught a fleeting glimpse of the shadow of the Mojo Hand! :blob8:
-
:laugh:
-
Got the guitar done for my friend. It sounds fantastic! Very warm resonant tone. Tonally and appearance wise, this one turned out better then the first one.
With respect, Tubenit
-
It's beautiful! :bravo1:
-
Love it Jeff, great work as usual. :laugh:
A 335 is really a versatile instrument and I love to feel them howling.
-
Wow that looks GREAT! Man you do some fine work (on your amp heads, cabinets, and THESE guitars only....)! How about some sound clips?
Jim :worthy1:
-
Beautiful! That just makes my old '72 walnut stained flat sawn maple 335 look ho-hum plain.
-
Thanks to all of you for your kind remarks! My friend is pleased with it. Keeping in mind it was a CHEAPO kit, it turned out pretty good.
He played some jazz on it for maybe 30 minutes thru the Tweed BluezMeister. Sounded incredible. I did not know he could play jazz? :icon_biggrin:
Only changes were graphite nut, Alnico 2 & 3 magnets, roller bridge and oval strap buttons. Pretty low cost upgrade. The tuners that came seem to be pretty comparable to the Gotoh tuners I have on a guitar. And I put waterfall bubinga veneer on the headstock. That's it.
Sprayed it with spray cans of Min-wax lacquer from Home Depot.
with respect, Tubenit
-
@tubnit, Where did you get the kit from?
I tried to build a guitar a long time ago but I didn't know what I was doing at the time and it turned out so-so. I got all the parts from Carvin (except for the body that I made from an old counter top). I have a neck, two humbuckers, the Gibson style bridge and all the pots/switches/jacks.
I'm thinking of trying again but I need to find a body that will work with the parts I have. I'm thinking that an SG style body might be perfect for what I have.
Thanks.
-
five star products on ebay
-
Wow tubenit, :worthy1:
Awesome thread, really inspiring.
Both guitars look great!!
-
Franco,
Thank you for your kind remarks!
Best regards, Jeff
-
Update and upgrades
I added a "string butler" for $46 and now this guitar stays in tune as well as my Tele's do.
https://www.amazon.com/String-Butler-Guitar-Tuning-Improvement/dp/B074CNX799/ref=sr_1_1?crid=340TL4ZXNEFCY&keywords=string+butler+v3&qid=1563047933&s=gateway&sprefix=string+butler+%2Caps%2C145&sr=8-1
And I got some new Alnico 2 pickups for the guitar that had lower resistance values and provide a cleaner tone. $35
I've used these on 3 guitars now and like them as well or better then the DiMarzios and StewMac pickups I've used. I've wired the neck pickup on a switch from series to parallel. I play the parallel setting the most.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/HUMBUCKER-PICKUP-SET-CREAM-ALNICO-2-MAGNETS-VINTAGE-OUTPUT-FOUR-CONDUCTOR-WIRED/362596032906?hash=item546c68618a:g:~GYAAOSw6~pcUg7V
So
. for $81, I have a guitar with a cleaner more transparent tone that stays in tune significantly better then it did. I just finished playing the guitar for about an hour and never had to retune at all. That would be unusual for this guitar.
Just an FYI. Jeff
-
Jeff, WOW...those are simply beautiful. It's crazy you have transformed these inexpensive kits into such exquisite and classy looking instruments, and I will take your word for it how they sound, I know you've got a great ear for tone. And thank you for all of the accompanying info on the finish and upgrades, an interesting read. Well done my friend! Craig
-
I was looking at that string butler for my Gretsch Falcon, because of the wide 'split wing' head stock and Bigsby. The D and G string would go out when I used the Bigsby.
It looked like it would work. :icon_biggrin:
But I went with this zero fret, because I didn't want to drill into the head stock face.
https://goldtonemusicgroup.com/zeroglide/
Works great on my Falcon. :icon_biggrin:
-
I have never of that product before this post! Pretty nifty idea. If it works as well as they indicate, it would be a great investment. :thumbsup:
Did you find it relatively easy to install? How long did it take you?
As an FYI, I had NO drilling on my headstock for the string butler.
THANKS for sharing this! Jeff
-
I have never of that product before this post! Pretty nifty idea. If it works as well as they indicate, it would be a great investment. :thumbsup:
Well, doesn't go out of tune when I hit the Bigsby now. :icon_biggrin:
They now sell a S.S. zero fret.
I had a guitar shop guy put it in. They make some that are already set up for certain guitars. They leave them just a little larger, so you have a little to fine tune with.
They also make a 'blind' head nut, so you can't see the zero fret ends, like on a bound guitar neck. I have the blind nut, looks better.
As an FYI, I had NO drilling on my headstock for the string butler.
Nice. :icon_biggrin:
I forget now, but there was some reason I would have had to drill the face on the head stock to put it in.
I think it was either the width of the headstock/space between tuners or my tuners didn't have enough thread height sticking above the face of the headstock to slide the string butler under and tighten it down? I think it was the tuners? Their Grover Imperials.
In the pic below you can see how the strings are splayed out to the sides, D and G were the problem strings, they go furthest out. (Not my guitar below.)
On a Strat or Tele the strings go straight through to the tuners from the head nut. So vibratos don't get hung up any where near as easily when the strings splay outward.
-
I have never of that product before this post! Pretty nifty idea. If it works as well as they indicate, it would be a great investment. :thumbsup:
Did you find it relatively easy to install? How long did it take you?
As an FYI, I had NO drilling on my headstock for the string butler.
THANKS for sharing this! Jeff
+1. Seems very cool. I'd do anything to brighten my Martin D28.
-
OK, I added the zero glide nut also along with the string butler. Guitar easily stays in tune as well as my Tele's do.
I thought it was a little bit of a challenge getting a good fit initially with the nut on the guitar. Was more like an hour + project then a 15 minute project to do. Sand the bottom of the nut truly flat & perfectly parallel is not all that easy, IMO.
Once getting it installed, it really is a nifty system and it makes sense why it works well. You have to look carefully to see that fret wire at the nut. It is there, the picture simply doesn't show it well.
With respect, Jeff
-
Nice. :icon_biggrin:
-
Very interesting and well done project.
I just came across this post.
About the String Butler that I did not know, an unusual and original gadget.
To adjust guitars for a very long time, my opinion is that this gadget is useless if the nut is well trimmed on the string sluts.
From the photos I see, there seems to be room for improvement and the String Butler would become useless.
I have a 335 Gibson Custon Shop and have had several copies before.
-
To adjust guitars for a very long time, my opinion is that this gadget is useless if the nut is well trimmed on the string sluts.
Disagree.
Depends on how much and how far you bend the strings.
Any guitar that has the strings splaying out on an angle from the head nut to the tuners, no matter how well done the nut is, the strings will bind.
Even more of a problem if the guitar has a vibrato bar.
That's at least 1 of the reasons Leo Fender designed his guitars head stocks so the strings would go straight back from the head nut to the tuners.
Gibson Les Paul's are well known to have tuning stability problems because of how their strings splay/angle out from the head nut to the tuners.
-
newbie here :icon_biggrin:
Depends on how much and how far you bend the strings.
as in playing, or angle to tuners :dontknow:
-
How can you explain since more than 50 years ES -335 guitar style exist, I never saw serious ( and hard bending ) guitar players use this gadget.
Don't get me wrong Tubenit do a very nice job with building this guitar.
You have the right to buy any gadget you want to work around the problem instead of fixing it.
IMO since fews years many people like to fix their own guitar and amps without luthier tools or skill.
This gadget may do the job if you don't want to work on nut sluts.
-
Here is what method I use to cut the nuts slots.
From the book; "how to make your electric guitar play right" by Dan Erlewine, pages 29 to 36.
If you size your slots this way, I would be very surprised if you have problems bending strings.
It is very rare that I saw well-cut nuts, but most of the time it does not matter if we do not push the bending too much
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50029049287_27a8504008_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jdTXni)DSC08043 (https://flic.kr/p/2jdTXni)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50028252018_ac2355fb7c_k.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2jdPSnh)DSC08044 (https://flic.kr/p/2jdPSnh)