Hoffman Amplifiers Tube Amplifier Forum
Amp Stuff => Tube Amp Building - Tweaks - Repairs => Topic started by: p2pAmps on November 08, 2015, 05:11:22 pm
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I almost hate to keep posting the Princetons I am building but maybe the pictures will help anyone doing their first one. This one is in progress...
http://p2pamps.com/ml/ (http://p2pamps.com/ml/)
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Looks good. Got one hand tied behind your back? :wink:
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Looks good. Got one hand tied behind your back? :wink:
Ha! Nah, my hand is feeling much better so I'm back at it. Got this PR to build, and a 70s Twin to service and blackface up... I'm also expecting my 5e3 cabinet soon so I can fire that up... OH yeah, there's my day job somewhere in there LOL
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Looks good
One word on the reverb tank board
Hopefully it does not start feeding back
The cardboard may have been used as a dampener, just like the soft vinyl bag is used
Have to wait and see on that one :icon_biggrin:
I have had many a tank that starts to feedback and then grows and grows on the resulting cabinet vibrations
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Looks good
One word on the reverb tank board
Hopefully it does not start feeding back
The cardboard may have been used as a dampener, just like the soft vinyl bag is used
Have to wait and see on that one :icon_biggrin:
I have had many a tank that starts to feedback and then grows and grows on the resulting cabinet vibrations
That logic does seem right except I spent some time with my first one trying different materials just to see the results. No baffle was bad, reverb was in and out and kinda acted crazy. Cardboard was ok, Foam was ok, indoor/outdoor carpet ok. I finally decided to use the 1/4" as it was easy to attach the tank and looked to be the strongest of them all. I know, how strong does it really need to be? Well, since I have plenty of 1/4" around to shop I used it...
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And by the way, DO keep posting your PR builds :icon_biggrin:
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And by the way, DO keep posting your PR builds :icon_biggrin:
Ok, Doug. I just didn't want to bore everyone with the same ole stuff...
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Ok, so here is something the guys here on this forum taught me. I wanted to slow down my tremolo and also get more intensity. Worked great for me. The 220K replaced a 1M resistor. I also tried a 470K but ended up liking the 220K better.
(http://p2pamps.com/trem-mod.jpg)
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COOL :icon_biggrin:
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Ok, so here is something the guys here on this forum taught me. I wanted to slow down my tremolo and also get more intensity. Worked great for me. The 220K replaced a 1M resistor. I also tried a 470K but ended up liking the 220K better.
(http://p2pamps.com/trem-mod.jpg)
Yes. The .022 really get a nice hold of usable (Sane) tremelo. I love Princetons. Got a real 64 here 3 years ago for $100.00 that was painted blue & pink. Go figure. My friend just pulled his baffle board and put in a 12" 1962 Jensen P12Q. I haven't heard it yet cause i have been busy with other things. He has it miked and he claims it is on par or better than his 1969 Deluxe reverb/
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(http://www.emike.net/ml/13.jpg)
(http://www.emike.net/ml/14.jpg)
(http://www.emike.net/ml/15.jpg)
(http://www.emike.net/ml/16.jpg)
(http://www.emike.net/ml/17.jpg)
(http://www.emike.net/ml/18.jpg)
(http://www.emike.net/ml/19.jpg)
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Alright, now you are just showing off. :icon_biggrin:
Looks like you got some teflon tubing. McMaster-Carr?
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Alright, now you are just showing off. :icon_biggrin:
Looks like you got some teflon tubing. McMaster-Carr?
The Teflon spaghetti tubing is from evilbay :dontknow:
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You've become a PR factory!
Nice work.
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You've become a PR factory!
Nice work.
Man I hope not... Nothing worse than turning a hobby into a job to suck the fun right out of it.
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Your work is so meticulous and clean, very impressive. :worthy1:
I really don't see much of this type of craftsmanship.
Some old Govt lab gear from the 40's or 50's had good build quality.
But your work is on a whole different level. :worthy1:
Alright, now you are just showing off. :icon_biggrin:
Looks like you got some teflon tubing. McMaster-Carr?
The Teflon spaghetti tubing is from evilbay :dontknow:
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Your work is so meticulous and clean, very impressive. :worthy1:
I really don't see much of this type of craftsmanship.
Some old Govt lab gear from the 40's or 50's had good build quality.
But your work is on a whole different level. :worthy1:
Alright, now you are just showing off. :icon_biggrin:
Looks like you got some teflon tubing. McMaster-Carr?
The Teflon spaghetti tubing is from evilbay :dontknow:
Well that was a pretty nice thing to say, thank you...
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Your labor of love clearly shows in your workmanship.
Please don't ever let this become a job where you need pump it out in pursuit of another $.
It almost appears that when you have this all hooked up and powered on on your bench,
that you could accidentally spill a bin of washers in there and come out unscathed. :blob8:
If you have some experience, you know when you are witnessing an exceptional performance.
If someone wants to see what a quality amp build looks like, I will point them to your pictures.
Keep up the good work! :icon_biggrin:
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Your labor of love clearly shows in your workmanship.
Please don't ever let this become a job where you need pump it out in pursuit of another $.
It almost appears that when you have this all hooked up and powered on on your bench,
that you could accidentally spill a bin of washers in there and come out unscathed. :blob8:
If you have some experience, you know when you are witnessing an exceptional performance.
If someone wants to see what a quality amp build looks like, I will point them to your pictures.
Keep up the good work! :icon_biggrin:
Thanks again for all your very kind words...
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What is the red coloring on the fasteners and also something similar on the solder connections? What is it and why do you add it? I think it looks cool, but is there a functional reason too? Thanks.
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What is the red coloring on the fasteners and also something similar on the solder connections? What is it and why do you add it? I think it looks cool, but is there a functional reason too? Thanks.
I don't see any fasteners? Turrets?? I see a little flux residue on some of the solder joints. I am sure with the quality workmanship displayed so far, he will clean any of that excess flux residue off with a solvent before he deems his build complete. Most others don't bother to clean that off. It helps make a good, clean and shiny and not cold, solder joint.
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What is the red coloring on the fasteners and also something similar on the solder connections? What is it and why do you add it? I think it looks cool, but is there a functional reason too? Thanks.
The red stuff is called Dykem. It is a red lacquer of sorts. It is my own way of doing a QA at the end of the build to make sure I didn't miss a solder joint. Also, when and if the amp sells and someone brings it in for a repair I can se if my work had been disturbed. Other than that I don't think it serves any purpose what so ever.
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What is the red coloring on the fasteners and also something similar on the solder connections? What is it and why do you add it? I think it looks cool, but is there a functional reason too? Thanks.
I don't see any fasteners? Turrets?? I see a little flux residue on some of the solder joints. I am sure with the quality workmanship displayed so far, he will clean any of that excess flux residue off with a solvent before he deems his build complete. Most others don't bother to clean that off. It helps make a good, clean and shiny and not cold, solder joint.
The flux will most certainly get cleaned up at the end...
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> red stuff is called Dykem. It is a red lacquer of sorts. It is my own way of doing a QA at the end of the build
Historically: Alice soldered the radio and Betty inspected it, marking approved points with red nailpolish (or Dychem). If Betty got called away and Carol took over, Carol could see what Betty did or missed. Dave could spot-check production inspection by looking for the red dots.
You see it in LOTS of old gear.
mscaggs may not have a large staff cross-checking each other, but he knows it is a good idea.
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If you ever get a chance to closely inspect any ultra-light aircraft engine and control mechanisms you will often times see the same type of (locktite/Dychem/nail polish) markings.
It helps to quickly identify if any of your critical components have vibrated or broken loose somehow.
Something you definitely want to discover before taking to the air. :icon_biggrin:
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Hiwatt used to do the same in guitar amps.
(http://hiwatt.org/images/DR504_gutsCl.jpg)
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All done and shipped. I built this amp for an old band mate (Mike) in a group I played in out in Northern CA called Silver Creek. Man did we have fun! On one hand I miss those days, on the other hand I'm sure glad I'm not playing till 2am anymore :)
(http://p2pamps.com/ml/pr-ml.jpg)
(http://p2pamps.com/ml/d120f.jpg)
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Nice work indeed. And thanks to Hot Blue Plates and Doug for making the Hoffman PR a reality! Such a nice layout to work with.
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You did the lion's share of the work to make the layout drawings palatable! I felt like I just got the ball rolling back then.
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Well, who ever did what is appreciated by many I' m sure.... Thanks guys, love me some PR
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HBP you're being modest. You were the brains behind the project, I threw in some mistakes on the layout :l2: And then Doug and Sluckey made it all correct.