Hoffman Amplifiers Tube Amplifier Forum
Other Stuff => Effects => Topic started by: tubenit on August 24, 2017, 04:55:43 am
-
I've built maybe 6 FX pedals over the years and they all worked just fine.
I bought this FX Velo board "kit" & ironically, it did NOT come with a full layout meaning showing wiring from board to pots, switches, jacks, etc.....
So using Windows "PAINT", I drew this up. I think it is correct except I'm not sure for: 1) LED wiring and 2) the 9V DC wiring ????
Can someone please help me with this and either confirm it's correct ......... or EDIT for me showing the correct wiring there. Also if anyone notices any other mistakes, please let me know.
Here is a link showing information about the board:
http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2012/03/paul-cochrane-timmy.html (http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2012/03/paul-cochrane-timmy.html)
Thanks for the help! With respect, Tubenit
-
Looks OK to me. You don't need the 2.2K current limiting resistor (CLR) for the LED. There's already a 2.2K CLR on board. 9V DC looks fine, but if you really plan to power with a battery you may want to use a stereo jack for the input and wire the battery through the jack such that when you unplug the guitar the battery will be disconnected.
-
Steve,
THANKS for taking the time to offer some direction and help! I am understanding this correctly ...... that the layout will work as drawn and I can probably just eliminate the CLR to the LED.
The thing that was throwing me off was the LED wire coming off the board. I think in the past, I just had the LED positive connected to the 9v + terminal? And I was thinking maybe I should do that with this board.
While I didn't draw it, I am going to use a stereo jack and a 9v battery option.
Always appreciate your help, Steve! Thanks so much! Best regards and respect, Jeff
-
I've highlighted the path from the LED to the 9V. Since the CLR is included on the board I'd use it. Then you don't have to dangle a resistor off the flimsy LED leads. But you can certainly use an off board CLR connected between the battery positive and the LED anode if that's more convenient.
-
Got it! Your drawing totally makes sense and the light went on! :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
This is my first foray in vero boards and I wasn't catching the pattern like I needed to. I'll use the layout board wiring with the LED.
Best regards, Jeff
-
T - I think that you have everything reversed? In the "effects world" they number the pots opposite than in the "amp world". Also it's not important to wire your lugs together they way they show or that you have. They're simply a variable resistor. Dealing with low voltage in pedals is not the same as a LARMAR ppimv for example. One shouldn't have any worry in the event of the very unlikely possibility of a wiper not making contact and doing harm to anything important. Save yourself the time and trouble here...
-
Joe,
THANKS! Helpful info to me that I'll use.
Best regards, Jeff
-
My pleasure! Every once in a while an amp or effects build will have the lugs numbered incorrectly (depending on your perspective looking at it) and you can understand how easily it happens? A simple way to confirm your suspicions either way is to look at a Volume pot's wiring and that'll tell you the person's system used (and maybe which world they came from? :laugh:)
-
My pleasure! Every once in a while an amp or effects build will have the lugs numbered incorrectly (depending on your perspective looking at it) and you can understand how easily it happens? A simple way to confirm your suspicions either way is to look at a Volume pot's wiring and that'll tell you the person's system used (and maybe which world they came from? :laugh: )
I have noticed this. Do you know why?
-
Even the data sheet for the 16mm alpha pots number them as 3-2-1 looking from the back.
-
Better? This look right? Lots of cut and pasting from different sources to make this plus Windows PAINT.
Thanks, Jeff
-
I am not sure what your final goal is. I do not see any pull down resistors on your input and output to deter any bypass switching popping.
-
I am not sure what your final goal is. I do not see any pull down resistors on your input and output to deter any bypass switching popping.
:dontknow:
I'd have to go back and check, but I think I've wired all my homemade FX pedals that way? They seem to work fine. I don't remember any popping?
I don't know what a "pull down" resistor is?
With respect, Jeff
EDIT: OK, I looked it up and found this: http://www.muzique.com/news/pulldown-resistors/ (http://www.muzique.com/news/pulldown-resistors/)
Maybe my other pedals didn't need this for some reason? Since this one is similar to the TimZee that I built, maybe this pedal will not need it either?
It appears some people are suggesting with the input to the board being grounded in "bypass mode" (as I have in the last posted layout) that this may not be an issue?
-
No problems with "popping" when switching at all. Very quiet. The LED worked like Sluckey said it would. THANKS! I did not add an extra CLR and used the one already on the board.
With this being my first effort at a Vero board, I was expecting some problems? However, everything worked with first attempt. :dontknow: :thumbsup:
Pedal sounds great! Next to the TimZee, it's the most transparent pedal I've done. I can use it like a slight clean boost or a very smooth overdrive.
I will say that I sure like a PCB board for pedal building better then the Vero board. However, the Vero boards are actually pretty easy to solder up.
Jeff
-
Sound clip? It's been a while young man! :icon_biggrin:
Jim
-
OK, I'll post one right after you get your next one up. :dontknow: :icon_biggrin: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
I may try to get around to it in the next few weeks if I have time.
Jeff
-
There is a pull down resistor on the input. It's the 2M2 on the board going to ground at the point where the signal goes through the input cap to the op-amp.
I am a little bummed that I continue to not receive many notifications on various threads - still and ongoing issue on this site. I've used various emails yet it continues to occur for some reason? Between msn, yahoo, and Gmail - they all work normally for everything else but this site has major difficulties with all of them. By the time I get one - if I do at all - it's way too late and the issues are no longer current or appropriate.
-
There is a pull down resistor on the input. It's the 2M2 on the board going to ground at the point where the signal goes through the input cap to the op-amp.
I am a little bummed that I continue to not receive many notifications on various threads - still and ongoing issue on this site. I've used various emails yet it continues to occur for some reason? Between msn, yahoo, and Gmail - they all work normally for everything else but this site has major difficulties with all of them. By the time I get one - if I do at all - it's way too late and the issues are no longer current or appropriate.
JoJo I cannot get them at all. Tried numerous ways. I simply ended up bookmarking the new topic section.
-
I see the pull down now. Not good at looking at layouts. On the schematic they are obivous.
-
JoJo I cannot get them at all. Tried numerous ways. I simply ended up bookmarking the new topic section.
Well this time I changed to a more "secure?" email account which makes it the 4th one. I did receive it this time so I'll leave it and see what happens? Times are a changin' I guess? With all the adds, scams, and other types of garbage always trying to inflict harm or bombardment of email crap all in the attempt of getting people to click onto their links of "electronic quicksand" taking advantage in any way possible? I call it "click bait"
I see the pull down now. Not good at looking at layouts. On the schematic they are obivous.
Tubenit says he's not sure about vero also but so far has had no issues with using it. I personally LOVE it! To me it's as easy as working with turret & eyelet boards and almost like breadboarding too. To have "lanes" with which to work within and being similar to a breadboard.
When I build my amps and effects both - most times I find the need to improvise on various changes and adjustments to a circuit by adding or eliminating or enhancing various parts of something to achieve more desirable outcomes. This also involves faceplate changes for controls too - and why I will not make a faceplate on designs until I am completely finished with a project. It's been this way for me for a long long time.
So veroboard gives me total freedom over making changes at will that you just cannot do using circuit boards. Making DIY circuit boards a very constricting in this way and they are a pain in the butt to make: very time consuming, labor intensive, and the possibilities of making mistakes are much much greater. I can also say that I can get my boards down to a physical size that takes up almost no more room than a regular circuit board too. I grew up loving to work crossword and other puzzles and creating and consolidating an amp or effect layout with what you have available to work with is very similar and just as much fun. My grandmother, as I remember her, was always in her favorite chair drinking coffee, smoking, and working the daily crossword puzzle in the newspaper. This must be part of where I get it from?
I keep watching all the storms out back East and all of the rain and flooding going on. I do this also with a "concerned eye" because I have had a vacation scheduled next month to be sailing on a private luxury boat in the Lesser Antilles with a group of family and friends with five couples. We're to spend our entire time on the water and island hopping around. It should still be safe and it's been said there's been no hurricane issues they've had since they've been doing this. So if you don't hear from me I may be stranded on a deserted island somewhere trying to make an amplifier and radio out of coconut shells and recovered boats parts? (thinking Gilligan's Island :l2:)
-
quick question on the vero board layout's I've seen. Is the red square with a dot in the middle a sign of a 'cut here' type thing? It seems so but I'm not sure.
~Phil
-
Yes. Sorry thought I had already replied. It can also be white with a red dot but you get the idea. One more is blue circle - it means a double wire point/connection.
-
Cool thanks!
-
I'll throw my fifty cents in here just because I like the whole effects field of ideas and because Commander JOJO is on deck. I have not had good luck with vero board personally. My issue is that it's too small to work on for my poor eyesight, clumsy hands and wrong temp solder irons.....with too big a tip also. I bought a laser printer so I could try out the pcb transfer method but have been fixing amps and cars lately so nothing to report on the acid washing copper clad board. I know JOJO is a master of the vero brd but I really need to get my feet wet producing pcbs. That's all I have on this subject. Check out my post on Solid State and give me some help!
adios amigos, Jack :icon_biggrin: