Hoffman Amplifiers Tube Amplifier Forum
Other Stuff => Other Topics => Topic started by: Ritchie200 on March 05, 2018, 01:24:51 pm
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Ok JJ, I'm gonna need your input! Going to do an 80% lower build as I can do all the milling and drilling - should be fun! Billet upper. Anodized or cerakote? Barrel will be 5.56 mil spec in steel with chrome 16". Still unsure of twist? 15" floating rail. Magpul lower and stock furniture. Nickel boron bolt carrier (These coating prices are ridiculous. I know what this costs because I used to send out tooling for all sorts of coatings and they are easily posting a 1000% upcharge on coated carriers...). Got a question on triggers. Are single stage Timney and CMC - type really necessary? A little stone and polish on a stock mil spec might be good enough maybe? Want to do an economy build, but with some quality parts where needed. See anything I missed? Suggestions?
Jim
BTW, have you seen this? Interesting...
http://blog.cheaperthandirt.com/ar-15-223-mil-spec-5-56mm-chambers/?utm_source=newsletter&utm_medium=social&utm_content=chronicle0315&utm_campaign=20140315-social-newsletter-ar15-223-vs-milspec-556-blog-post
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Sounds like a fun project! I'll help all I can.
Going to do an 80% lower build as I can do all the milling and drilling. Make sure to comply with Federal law & the law of your State when you have a finished lower. Note that it's the finished Lower that constitutes a firearm even if there's nothing else attached to it. Law abiding citizens can get themselves in criminal trouble by inadvertent violations of firearms laws.
Billet upper. That's fine but quality uppers & lowers may be either machined or forged.
Anodized or cerakote? Personal choice. Try to come up with a total design, including appearance, so the metal finish and "furniture" choices match and look good. If you get it wrong, don't worry. The extra parts will just have to go to the next build.
Barrel. This is a significant choice in terms of performance, appearance and price. You have to decide if you want a serviceable rifle, or match quality. For top accuracy you need a barrel that's designated Match, Varmint, or a custom or semi-custom barrel.
AR-15's are accurate. For more accuracy the rules are to upgrade: barrel, floating rail, optics, trigger. You have to decide if you want iron sights, scope or both. There are upgraded iron sights and numerous choices all around.
If you intend to shoot offhand I recommend a tapered, lightweight barrel. My son's first AR-15, before we started building, was a Rock River Arms. Good rifle but too forward heavy & too heavy overall.
If you will be shooting from a rest, then: i) weight is far less important; ii) maybe consider a beavertail (flat bottomed) for-end.
Still unsure of twist? You have to decide on bullet weight first, which in turn requires a specific twist rate. 5.56/223 bullets come in weights measured in grains such as about 35; 55; 65 - 70; 80 - 90. Stay away from the 80 - 90 at least for now - very fussy & demanding to shoot well. Those different weight ranges each require their own twist rate; info available on-line.
15" floating rail. As stated a floating rail is required for better accuracy.
Magpul lower and stock furniture. Good stuff.
Nickel boron bolt carrier. Good stuff.
Got a question on triggers. Are single stage Timney and CMC - type really necessary? This question indicates that you need to get a clearer picture of your build. There's no point in a top quality trigger, paired with, say, an AR Stoner barrel. E.g., no sense putting an $800 tone arm on an ordinary record player.
Personally I'm a 2-stage guy, but this is a personal choice. Remember you can always upgrade later. My son & I wound up building a run of the mill AR with most of the parts left over from other builds and mods.
A little stone and polish on a stock mil spec might be good enough maybe? Should work, but be careful & checkout video's. Always be concerned about runaway fire. Google that if necessary!
Want to do an economy build, but with some quality parts where needed. Design concept again. No "quality parts" are needed to build a good serviceable AR-15 rifle. I.e., standard parts are way good enough. Isolated quality parts here and there cannot deliver on their promise without all the other quality components. So for an economy build, I would recommend buying the standard barrel, and upper & lower kit components. It's cheaper to buy the kits, and you'll have all the parts.
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Check out https://www.bearcreekarsenal.com/ or https://www.aimsurplus.com for parts you may be needing. For the 5.56 or 223 barrel twist depends on bullet weight. If you intend to plink with 40 to 55gr bullets use a 9in twist, if you want to go with heaver bullets for some hunting over 55gr go with a 7in twist. The fancy triggers are not necessary unless target shooting or varmint hunting. Having such a gun around for home protection go with as close to stock trigger as you can get. Even though we AR shooters can't wait to drop in a new trigger, there's a lot to be said for the plain-Jane, factory original. Lots of good medium cost triggers out now, look into a HIPERFIRE HIPERTOUCH EDT Performance AR Trigger, cost around $60. Then as to the coating, personal preference. But there are DIY coatings such as http://www.duracoat-firearm-finishes.com, ch out .midwayusa.com, https://www.brownells.com for other coatings in the DIY catagory. Hope this helps some. Don't be afraid to ask.
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+1. But for self defense use of a firearm, revisit slukey's thread on the 357.
If actually used in self defense your firearm will likely be confiscated at least until the matter is resolved. Hence it's best not to use a favorite firearm or heirloom for self defense.
Know the psycogical rigors and legal conundrums. Best to take a course specific to your State and location.
You can wind up on the wrong end of charges for both civil (money) damages and crimes. This can be disastrous even if you eventually win in court .
You may inconsistently be accused of both negligent or unintentional firing of the weapon, and of being a homicidal gun nut whose been waiting for a chance to shoot someone. A lightweight trigger will work against you on both counts.
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+1. But for self defense use of a firearm, revisit slukey's thread on the 357.
Please don't! Just move to Alabama. :l2:
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Where the skies are so blue. . . :guitar1
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... n the rednecks will shoot you :icon_biggrin: