Hoffman Amplifiers Tube Amplifier Forum
Amp Stuff => Tube Amp Building - Tweaks - Repairs => Topic started by: Sonny ReVerb on September 07, 2018, 09:35:58 pm
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Thought I'd give y'all a chuckle at my expense...
:BangHead:
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Thought I'd give y'all a chuckle at my expense...
:BangHead:
I feel your pain!!
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They make a plate for that.
I think Doug sells them?
Yeah, here; https://hoffmanamps.com/MyStore/perlshop.cgi?action=template&thispage=MiscHardware&ORDER_ID=760127690 (https://hoffmanamps.com/MyStore/perlshop.cgi?action=template&thispage=MiscHardware&ORDER_ID=760127690)
Scroll down to; 8 Pin to 9 Pin Tube socket adapter
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They make a plate for that.
Scroll down to; 8 Pin to 9 Pin Tube socket adapter
Oh if it were only that simple. Look closer and you'll see the bigger error. I'd just start all over with a new chassis. You're not the first to make that mistake.
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Don't use single socket adapters
simply cut an alluminium 2mm thick rectangular plate large as the chassis is and deep as to cover the socket holes and a bit more, fix it on the top of the chassis (with rivets) to cover all the existing socket holes
then drill a new complete set of holes
this will give a more professional look to the chassis than using single socket patch and you save the chassis
Ciao
Franco
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Yes, you got it. I made a $60 paper weight. To add to the pain, the vendor I bought it from took a month to ship and packaged it very poorly. I don't think I'll be buying from him again. They can't all be as good as Doug!
[My circuit is a mod of the layout pictured. The octal preamp cutouts (at least) were intentional.]
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simply cut an alluminium 2mm thick rectangular plate large as the chassis is and deep as to cover the socket holes and a bit more, fix it on the top of the chassis (with rivets) to cover all the existing socket holes
That's exactly what I'd do! It works fine, IMO.
With respect, Tubenit
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Did you get a bottom plate with the chassis? If so, you may consider using a jigsaw to cut the entire top off the chassis, leaving about 1/2" lip on all sides. Bolt or rivet the bottom plate on top and then re-drill. Don't make the same mistake!
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Oh if it were only that simple. Look closer and you'll see the bigger error.
Oh, the PT.
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The layout shows the view looking at the BOTTOM of the chassis. Every hole on the top is drilled wrong. Unless he wants to put the tubes under the hood and mount the boards and components on the outside of the chassis. Would be easier to wire up and work on that way. :icon_biggrin:
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.... consider using a jigsaw to cut the entire top off the chassis, leaving about 1/2" lip on all sides. Bolt or rivet the bottom plate on top and then re-drill.
+ 1 good idea if the whole thing is drilled wrongly
Franco
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The layout shows the view looking at the BOTTOM of the chassis. Every hole on the top is drilled wrong. Unless he wants to put the tubes under the hood and mount the boards and components on the outside of the chassis. Would be easier to wire up and work on that way. :icon_biggrin:
It maybe backwards from the drawing, but, he could still wire it up. As long as he hasn't made the turret/eyelet boards yet. (And I'd rather remake a turret/eyelet board than redo a chassis any day.)
If it goes in combo cab, then input will be on the right and if it's a head, input will be on the left.
Marshall did the same thing with their copies of the Fender tweed Bassman. They inverted them.
And the PT looks like it's rotated on the chassis 90deg. from the drawing.
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the vendor I bought it from took a month to ship and packaged it very poorly
Which vendor so we can avoid?