Hoffman Amplifiers Tube Amplifier Forum
Amp Stuff => AmpTools/Tech Tips => Topic started by: dude on November 04, 2019, 02:54:01 pm
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Did a search here on this subject, seems a split on the wet sponge vs balled-up stainless steel pot scrubber. Any thoughts about which is best? Some say the wet sponge cools the tip but I find in five seconds it hot again, never tried the balled -up steel. Also, what is the desired best temp for soldering components and wire to turrets and general tip temperature for tube pins...?
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I use wet sponge because that's what comes with my Weller station. And I use 800° tips for turret boards and general amp work.
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+1. A good regulated soldering station will keep the tip hot. Also a very hot iron works best IMHO, but don't linger. I think a wet sponge is best for when actually working with the iron. I think a scrubber & re-tinning the tip is better if & when the tip gets too dirty.
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when the tip gets too dirty.
it's one of the keys to a good build, get a new one
I've found levis' to be best tip cleaner for me, polyester not so much :icon_biggrin:
since the PACE days I've found 25W for pcb work, 35W for turret, general stuff, 150W for the fat wires, Weller of course :laugh:
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I have the older Hako 936 station, came with a sponge so that's what's I've been using, decent results. There a lot of Hako marked tips out there, especially on E bay that are junk. The real Hako tips are more expensive and come with blue lettering on the cellophane plastic "on the back of the cellophane", the fake one's have yellow on the back. I've been running my tip at 650*, I think that's part of my problem. 800* seems hot but trying it, works much faster and just used less time, thanks for that tip. I have a calibration adjustment on the Hako 936, I used a temp probe on my meter, not sure how accurate that is but every time I change the tip I have to calibrate again. Now I just leave a D 1.2 tip.
BTW, what is the best hako tip to use for general purpose amp, turret and pin soldering.?
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for general purpose amp
my preference is a 1/8-3/16" chisel for general stuff and a 1/16" chisel for pcb work
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Got the same Hako. Works for me. I use the pointy, conical tip. Have other tips but don't use them: rectangular solid, and a slanty conical.
Also have a Radio Shack soldering station on another workbench which works well.
The wet sponge works well form me. I must remember to use the sponge often; then re-tin the tip before turning it off.
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I will not go back to the wet sponge, glad i got metal wool or how you call it. Maybe i dont know how to solder but this just works better.
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NASA says to use the golden curls type things AND a sponge. You just tap it on the sponge after cleaning it on the curls, and it shocks off the last bits of oxides.
Myself, I just use the golden curls. I like that it doesn't drop the temperature of the iron while I'm using it. For most things I use a hoof tip, and I almost always keep it set too 650ºF.
Gabriel
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I use a PACE PS-90 Sodr-Pen with PPS15A Temp controlled Base. I believe the handpiece is rated at 51W and I run it at approx 340deg C (or 650deg F) with a concave tip. I use the supplied Foam sponge but if too grubby, I do have a Hakko 599B goldencurly metal scrubber.
I always tap on sponge before soldering and load the (concave) tip before making a joint. I might wind the temp up for heavier work BUT I find the flux splutters ie too hot and you may get poor quality joint. This occurs above 400C/750F. The sponge MUST be washed regularly to comply with NASA guidelines and preferably with Sterile water as domestic water has Fluoride added (in Australia).
I also have a Weller 175Watt job for chassis soldering, making tin boats :laugh:
Kind regards
Mirek
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I use stainless steel scouring pad (of those to clean the pots)
and I'm happy with it, before, I often put the soldering tip on deoxidizing paste but this way the tip life was too short
Franco