R16 value doesn't look right. I'd be curious to see what wattage values you are using in some areas as well. R22 should probably be a bit beefier. Have you thought about led biasing the trem triode? I think the .02 on the coupling cap is a good move. :0)
That's fine as far as the value goes, but I would spec a 3-5 watt resistor there.
R22 is taken directly off the guitar.com article in the OP.
I've had some bad run ins with board layouts. Hoping to do a tweed/blues deluxe/blues jr style chassis layout with controls on top and the tubes and controls went smoothly. Made a template for the PT and dropped an eyelet board in. The spacing is out of control for 29 eyelets. Whats a good remedy for this? Terminal strips? The donor amp board is there for reference.. 20ish terminals in half the length.There's nothing like experience to know what you can pull off in the required amount of space available. It is a specialty for some of us. The best advice is to get out your pencil, paper, and a good eraser along with stencils to create actual size drawings for all of your parts you plan to use. This could include actually getting your parts placed in front of you to know what their actual sizes are that you'll be using. Space your eyelets/turrets/tag strips accordingly. Try all methods and combinations of methods to achieve what it is that you want to do. Always plan ahead and there will be no surprises during your actual build.
well now im glad i asked! that couldve been bad.
Since im not really looking for a voltage drop between those nodes should I look at a small-ish resistor? 10K? or is it a hunt for an appropriate value?
jojokeo: a major component of the 5E3 is the voltage sag generated by the combination of slightly underrated PT/Power supply in combination with the high requirements to amplify so much bass. This does not appear to be a major requirement for all tweed amps though. Chokes are obviously much more efficient in their filtering task.Thanks so much for educating me on what a Tweed amplifier is all about, I didn't even know their was such an amplifier? :l2:
I think that folks took the tonal differences between say the brownface deluxe and the blackface deluxe and attributed it to the choke in the blackface when thats only a small bit.
Im after a tweed sound. Thats why I was investigating, and after finding a video comparing the 5E3 and 5E4a Ive decided the choke is fine.
Motorboating is not usually rectifier.
fwiw;
I went duckin on "motorboating" n found a thread where swapping OT primaries "fixed it" ya get what ya pay for :icon_biggrin:
That "fugly" part of the build could be the part of the problem (wire routing issue?) Site unseen it's hard to say. You might want to chopstick some of your leads and move them around to see if that helps or exacerbates your problems.
Sounds like a good time for beer worse case! :d3:
You have made a lot of changes. I've lost track of what the circuit looks like with the power supply change. Can you update your schematic for us? and include the bias circuit and show where you disconnected the trem? Of course, I would love to see the final implementation of that reverb too! I'm always looking for something new to try.
I call the ohms normal
the 6V6, not.
blue isn't so much a problem, increased current is
More resistance for my cathode bias resistor will drop current and raise voltage
to think of a use for this single 6v6put it in a box labeled "shop spare", that way next time you don't have to wait on parts :icon_biggrin:
R9 and R11 are usually the same value. The values you used will cause a big difference in drive voltage to the 6V6s.
theres different schematics with poor revisioning history