Hoffman Amplifiers Tube Amplifier Forum
Amp Stuff => Tube Amp Building - Tweaks - Repairs => Topic started by: dude on May 07, 2020, 04:26:32 pm
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The two sandwiched 1/16" proxy eyelet board and backer are bulky and uneven when together, too much room, IMO, for solder to flow connecting eyelets that are close. See Pic.
I thinking of sandwiching the two boards with "No" wire between and drilling holes where the eyelet underneath wires would go, maybe using small ties on eyelets not used to help secure the loose wire under the board..? Some short signal wire could be on top but the HV wires are long runs.
Open to suggestions.
{de-typo the subject -- PRR}
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use 22AWG PTFE insulated wire. none of those runs require anything beyond the ampacity of 24AWG by a very wide margin. stack 2 SS washers between the boards and one under the backing boards' standoffs. also, helps to have a center board standoff.
--pete
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Thanks, the washers would level the gap between boards, when putting solder on these small eyelets would the solder blob basically stay around the eyelet and not run under between the boards..? I've had wires between fiber bds and not an issue with hot solder running between, never worked on a thin proxy eyelet bd like this.
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What is "proxy"?
Hiding wires where they can't be seen seems a bad idea. Yes, it is very popular with factories who do not intend to fix the stuff they make.
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Epoxy is what l meant regarding board material, proxy is giving the authority to vote for someone else, sorry :laugh: .
Amp makers sandwich wires between fiber boards all the time and l agree problems can be hell to fix. Leo Fender did it on almost all his amps. If a wire breaks, gets unattached, trouble, big time fixing it. Just following most builders, maybe l'll just use 22 gauge solid core wire under "both boards", it should stay up against the bottom, could use a bit of silicone in a few spots to keep it tight up against the bottom board.
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You should do all board soldering ***BEFORE*** you sandwich the boards together.
Alternately, use standoffs to mount the component board to the chassis and throw the backer away.
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Only problem with not using the backer board is the two epoxy boards are only 1/16" thick each. Way to thin to use alone, and it's a long board. I probably should put the boards together as one bd. and run HV wire under them. If the eyelet epoxy top bd. was thicker, yeah, I'd toss the bottom but it's too thin, yes standoffs needed. The thinness is the reason I'm even asking questions, 1/16" and 14" long. But I hear ya.
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Six standoffs will sufficiently hold a 14" board.