Hoffman Amplifiers Tube Amplifier Forum
Other Stuff => Cabinets-Speakers => Topic started by: vintasonic on February 09, 2026, 02:18:07 pm
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Not even sure that's the correct term.
I have a Peavey Mace Combo on the bench, the speaker baffle is plywood and has been water damaged, the layers of the plywood are separating. Despite this, the baffle seems fairly solid, the speaker are mounted securely, most of the damage is at the top of the baffle.
This is not a screw mounted baffle, it is mounted in routed channels in the sides and bottom of the cab - so is integral the proper term?
It seems - outside of trying to re-glue the layers - that the only way to repair is by dis-assembling the cab and replacing the baffle with a new one. I am not a woodworker and although I have been very successful in repairing many, many damaged cabinets, this, is not really in my wheelhouse and I am at a loss on where to start.
Interestingly, this is one of two Maces I am repairing. The other has a screwed in baffle made of MDF, both seem factory original
Any suggestions, info, your experiences welcome
Thanks
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Could you provide some photos? It's easier for me to visualize solutions that way. It would be a major project to disassemble the whole cabinet to replace a baffle like that.
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I'll post a few pics in the next couple of days. The amp/ cab is off the bench for the moment while tend to other repairs
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I've had a Peavey Mace and a Classic, they were screw in types, I remember thinking about changing the 2x12 to a 1x15 but then got rid of them but that sounds difficult if it is fitted into a channel around the edge
Would it be easy to cut the entire baffle out? is there room to get a jigsaw from the front without damaging the sides too much, then redo it with strips around the edge for a screw in baffle
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Would it be easy to cut the entire baffle out? is there room to get a jigsaw from the front without damaging the sides too much, then redo it with strips around the edge for a screw in baffle
That's pretty much what I'd do. If the baffle is fitted into channels on three sides, you'd need to cut it so you could remove it without taking apart the whole cabinet. Then put strips of 3/4" wide wood along the bottom and sides to screw in a new baffle or space some cleats along those sides to serve as places for attachment. Also might want to fill in the bottom channel with another strip of wood so the new baffle sits flush on the bottom rather than going down in the channel (you could also just put a few small blocks spaced in the channel rather than filling the whole thing.
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One of them oscillating multi tools may give you a cleaner cut over a jigsaw.
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outside of trying to re-glue the layers
I would not give up on this idea. If you use a glue like Titebond it would need to be clamped. If you use an epoxy it will not need to be tightly clamped.
I would think you'd be able to get some clamps in there - a clamping cleat covered with something the glue won't stick to would allow spreading the pressure.
Of course, I might change my mind after seeing the photos.
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Apologize for not responding sooner, hella busy
I would not give up on this idea. If you use a glue like Titebond it would need to be clamped
So my plan is still along the lines of repair as opposed to replacement, the baffle is separating at the top but is still kinda solid and the speakers help hold it together as well. I will use either Gorilla Wood Glue or Original Gorilla Glue; I have had a lot of luck lately repairing with the Original, it's polyurethane based and fills gaps nicely but the Wood glue might flow between the layers better.
Would it be easy to cut the entire baffle out?
I could but it's more work than I want to put into it at this time. I could also possibly cut away most of it and leave about an inch of the existing baffle in place to attach a new one. But that also means getting or creating a new baffle - the owner is OK with repair if I can make it work
So I think I will start with gluing and clamping and see how it goes. I have done a bunch of cabinet repair lately, it seems feasible and a lot less work. This amp is road worn and not going anywhere soon, so repair may be good enough. Glad to hear your opinions before I start & I'll post after it's done.
Thanks
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another pic
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That's not bad at all. Do you have a glue syringe? That would help. Even pressure with the clamps and Titebond should work fine. I think Gorilla Wood Glue is similar to Titebond. I would agree with you as to not using the Polyurethane glue. Let us know how it comes out!
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So in looking around the internet and trying to find a real site about Gorilla vs Titebond, it seems they are about the same, the Titebond may have a little more holding strength with heavy loads.
This site seemed to be real info so either should work https://ralphsway.com/gorilla-wood-glue-vs-titebond/
I don't have a glue syringe but I do have some small plastic bottles with metal syringe tips, about 1/2 long. I may thin the glue a little to help it run down in the layers, then clamp it in a few places.
Thanks for the input, if it fails then I will have to put in a new baffle but I am pretty confident this should work.