MORE RELAY SWITCHING

[TIMBO]

HI guys, I know that there is a truck load of info on this topic,so i'll chuck this in anyway.
The PSU is nothing special other that the regulator is rated at 3A and the PT rated at 2A.
The schematic for the relay circuit is from the Marshall Silver Jubilee that I built a awhile ago and worked very well. It didn't even have the DESPIKING diode across the relay coil and I had no noise problems.  
The jubilee circuit worked like this.......
When power is applied to the circuit as it is(with switch open) the LED is ON and the RELAY is OFF, this works well for Hi Gain circuits that the switching (relay)may cause noise problems.
When the switch is closed the LED is OFF and the RELAY is ON.
eg. An amp that has a CLEAN and OD channel can be switch via a relay and to reduce noise problems on the OD channel(when engaged) the relay can be OFF and to indicate the OD is engaged the LED is ON.

I have added another LED to the circuit. This is ON when the relay is ON, thus indicating that the circuit has switched from the OD to the CLEAN. "CONFUSED"........

In my circuit RELAY1&2 are paralleled, this also works well as there is a number of switching points that need to be switched at the same time. This is part of the OD channel the has a added gain stage indicated by the RED and BLUE LEDs.
Relay3 is the channel selector that will indicate the ORANGE LED(OD,relay off) and GREEN LED(CLEAN,relay on).

The foot switch is not quite what I wanted but I think that it will work using two stereo switched sockets, this will bypass the front panel switches when the foot sw. is in use.

The overall current of the LEDs(4) and relays(3) should be about 120mAs, this warned up the regulator a lot (to hot to touch) with added heat sink this was reduced a lot.
The regulated 12v will also power the pre amp tubes heaters(5x12AX7) so an added 750mAs will be added to the relays/LEDs for a total of 990mAs well under the 3A regulator and 2A transformer.
The heat sink required to control the temperature to the regulator may be a trial and error thing or just bolted to the aluminium chassis via an insulated bolt and mica disc.
With both relays on and the two indicator LEDs on, the PSU output measured 12.04v, so having the PSU on a separate PCB may allow me to make a adjustable power supply should the added heaters drops the regulated supply lower than 12v.

IF any one can think of a better FOOT SW. setup i'm all ears.Thanks

[TIMBO]

Hi guys, Just an update and all is good. I have installed the workings into the chassis and hooked up the tube heaters (5 tubes in) and checked their voltage and 12.07v was a great result as I was worried with that many tubes the voltage would drop.
Checked the relay functions working well.
LED indicators work as they should.
Regulator insulated and bolted to chassis is cool as a cucumber.

The two jack at the rear are for the foot switch as I could not think of anyway to switch out the panel switches when the foot switch is used. Thanks