This amp runs over 450V (peak 520V) so it needs stacked caps.
Then you need a way to force the stack-caps to share near-equal. This can be two fairly large resistors, or a part-voltage tap on the supply.
(An option is to just buy 600V caps. However the AlOx film in electrolytics breaks-down slightly over 450V, 500V at a premium. "600V electrolytics" were two 350V in one sleeve, so you pay for two just already assembled. 600V film caps are a LOT more expensive, especially before modern plastics.)
There's two (three) "full wave" rectifiers. Two diodes with a high volt CT winding, or one winding (optionally CT) and four diodes in a bridge. (There's also 1 winding and 2 diodes to 2 caps, two half-waves making full-wave.) The voltage and current specs are different. The 2 diode and CT form will require >900V diodes, which used to cost more. (The 2-half-waves has very low diode V specs, and was seen a lot when Silicon diodes first appeared.)
> Probably came down to economics.
EXactly!
So you do *complete* plans for the several possible implementations. (I count at least four.) It comes down to the relative costs of more windings, added CT, several-Watt resistors, and how diode price scales with voltage. Abstractly the cost difference may not be large. However talks with part suppliers may turn-up "special opportunities" like over-stocks. Or they already have a suitable part in production for another customer and would rather keep running that product at marginal cost than stop and idle the line while re-jigging for a different specification.
For YOUR builds, the economics of 1971 are different today, and 7 pence loss/profit either way makes no real difference in DIY work. You do NOT want custom-winding for a one-off. You buy whatever clone/replacement PT suits the build and assume the original rectifier and cap arrangement still "makes sense" (it does).