Soldering on eyelet board - is there a recommended way?

[Tbone55]

I'm soldering on an eyelet board for the first time and was wondering if there's a recommended way to solder the components to the board. Are the components just laid on the board or should they be elevated a bit? If so, what do you use?

Thanks!

[kagliostro]

There are NASA indications for a lot of solder joints but I don't remember a particular way for eyelets

https://nepp.nasa.gov/DocUploads/06AA01BA-FC7E-4094-AE829CE371A7B05D/NASA-STD-8739.3.pdf

you can consider it as a PCB (only strongher)

https://stevenjohnson.com/soldering/instruction.htm

Franco

[Tbone55]

Thanks kindly for the information.

 

[kagliostro]

I remembered that DummyLoad postd an interesting NASA document link

https://workmanship.nasa.gov/lib/insp/2%20books/frameset.html

read: SECTION 6 THROUGH-HOLE SOLDERING (PWB)

http://el34world.com/Forum/index.php?topic=23207.msg249216#msg249216

Ciao

Franco

[shooter]

fwiw, the Navy sent me to a 3 week NASA soldering school, 40+ yrs later that was by far the hardest class I EVER took 

[Platefire]

No special knowledge on eyelets. I started off using turrets and because of that avoided eyelets at first but eventually had to face up to them but---after working with them several times, I feel perfectly comfortable with them. I think of the eyelet as a common conductor ring and try to put a slight hook in the end of the lead to grab the ring so to speak to get somewhat of a mechanical connection. If all your leads entering the ring slightly grab the edge, they are all connected to the common conductor ring/eyelet. So the solder is to permanently hold the leads in position.  So I always go for a mechanical connection first, then double check it with a multi meter for continuity to the other adjoining component leads, then if OK---then nail it with solder. Of course good solder practice is to heat up the leads & eyelet with your iron and touch the leads/eyelet to with your solder wire. Your iron and solder wire should be separated(not touching). When the leads/eyelet is heated to melting the solder will be drawn into the joint. Trick is to withdraw you solder wire, then your iron with just enough solder to secure the joint and not have a big blob. A nice shinny joint is a good sign that it's not a cold solder joint. Platefire 

[Tbone55]

Thanks for the advice. I did as you mentioned, created a small loop to get a mechanical connection, checked it for continuity and then applied the solder. I then re-checked the connections for continuity. You can't be too safe. Once I had all of the connections in the eyelet that were required I soldered the eyelet hole shut and rechecked the connections again for continuity. It may be overkill but there's nothing worse in my mind than having the amp not work after all the work put into it. I guess you won't improve your troubleshooting skills if everything works out but it sure is a lot less stressful. 

[shooter]

won't improve your troubleshooting skills

you can hone those skills on things already broke 

[Platefire]

I consider myself a pretty good trouble shooter to the older amps. I think working on old PA, hi-fi, reel to reel amps to convert them to guitar amps helped develop my TS skills a lot. i always thought picking up an old dilapidated amp and bringing it back to life was a fun challenge but now I'm overrun with amps. So now I just maintain, mod and tweak what I got and just enjoy playing them. Platefire

[kagliostro]

I've find this image and as I think it will be of some utility I post it here





Franco