Just a few things to help:
I have a whole slew of germanium transistor types, too many to name. But, one thing I've found is that there's no "magical" transistor by itself. That goes for all of them even the old (EXPENSIVE) glass Mullards, etc... Yes, they do have sound characteristics between them but in the big picture what matters most is what sounds the best and/or is most versatile for the circuit and/or situation that it's in. In all of my testing and playing there's a number that work well in the Afterburner circuit. What's also important to know is that the true gain (gain-leakage) is also very important. This is what gives a clarity/more transparent/brighter/reactive tone as opposed to a darker/gainier side of the spectrum. Don't mean to get overly detailed & informative but want to put it out there to give a better understanding on germanium transistor behavior/characteristics.
So it's not as simple as saying, "I have an NKT or OC or AC type of tranny and it's therefore the best one to have" or "this sounds the best - get these."
One other thing, I think when people talk mojo in the guitar world you have to take things with a grain of salt. Same applies here in whether to use a carbon battery or having an LED and things like that. What bullshit! Using any battery type or ability to put onto a pedal board w/ the inverter chip makes no difference in sound, tone, and/or response all things being equal. Obviously, if you are running only battery powered and it's very low in voltage it will make a bit of difference just as it would in biasing your tube amp's voltages differently.
I use all NOS trannies like American 2N404/2N414, CV7355, 2N1307, 2N1309, Russians such as MP14, MP20, MP2, GT309, SFT308, SFT307, ASX12D, English/British, AC125, ASY27, Japanese, etc... and many others not listed here (but that's more than enough to choose from for this pedal). You can always change it if you ever wanted or needed to so don't fret> (yes, that was a pun, lol)
Topic: AfterBurner (Read 7147 times)