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where exactly on this schematic would you measure the B+?Why do you care?
1) At the filter-caps, so you buy a good Voltage rating
2) At the power tubes, to see if they are OK.
315V AC will give a start-up surge near 315V*1.414 or 441V. 450V caps are nominally fine. This will quickly drop as the power tubes start to suck.
There is no significant voltage-drop from first cap to EL84 plates, and 440V is awful high for EL84. We need to investigate rectifier drop.
Rect drop depends on load current. 90% of the load in a power amp is the big bottles, the EL84s. We find "8.3V across 120r" in their cathode return, so 69mA, call it 75mA with little tubes.
GZ34 is absurd for a piddly little 75mA. As you say, 5Y3 is right-size.
http://www.mif.pg.gda.pl/homepages/frank/sheets/093/5/5Y3GT.pdfBottom of Page 4. 300V AC per plate at 75mA is around 340V DC. 315VAC is likely 5% higher, say 357V. Deducting 8V cathode voltage, 350V on tubes.
_I_ would not fret about 350V on any new-made "EL84". I think the "300V" rating was conservative, to cover cheap plate-stuff when mass produced for car radios. As their market moved to guitar amps, EVERYbody was over-volting them, better plate stuff was used to control complaints. They tried charging more for a "7189" with 400V rating, but only the hi-fi market took that up. Today they don't make enough to bother with cheap plate stuff. I did not think thrice before shoving "EL84" in a Traynor BassMate at 410V. Even though I would have to fix it if they blew-up.