http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v227/zachsdad/footswitch.gifis the link to Les's drawing.
Here is some text from the post:
Re: the light bulb trick
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I think this will do what you want. All the signal is kept in the chassis. You can put more that one switch in each pedal if there is room. Just need one more wire per switch since ground and "hot (about 4.5VDC)" are already there. Use a relay with a 5 VDC coil and choose the resistor value for the brightness of the LED.
Good luck
img.photobucket.com/album...switch.gif
TryingToDo613
Junior tube assistant
Posts: 74
(5/25/05 10:49 pm)
Reply Decoding
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Hi Zachsdad. Your posts are always amazing, thanks. I'm going to try to translate and see if I have it.
Put a diode on each of the filiment leads coming out. The diodes terminate at a common point. That common point is joined to the back end of the coil and the minus (shorter) end of an led. The plus end is connected to a resistor that will vary brightness and other end of the led run back to the trip side of the coil. There is also a diode across the trips of the coil. At that plus end of the led I run the tip of the foot pedal. The sleeve is run back back to the ground of the center tap of the filiments.
Am I close? Do I use the little IN4001(??) diodes?
Also, can I use a 24vdc coil that the guy says trips at 6v? -613
zachsdad
Senior tube assistant
Posts: 182
(5/26/05 6:02 am)
Reply Re: Decoding
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The 1N4001 diodes will work. I doubt the relays will. In your explanation you have the LED reversed. It has to be forward biased. I left a component out of my drawing. Put a 4700 ufd
16V or higher electrolytic in the circuit with the positive side going to the commom point of the two diodes and the negative side going to ground. This filters the low voltage DC. A large capacitor is necessary to eliminate any hum from being injected into the audio circuits. Also I would probably stay with a 100 ohm resistor. This will keep the LED forward current in the 25mA neighborhood.