WIMA's for pedal upgrades?

[jjasilli]

Am getting into pedals.  E.g., just got a BBE Orange Squash.  Works as advertized but seems a bit muddy.  Has creepy green caps and even electrolytics in the signal path.  I'm thinking that upgrading the caps will improve tone.  But there's limited space and tight PCB layout.  So I'm thinking mini WIMA's with proper lead spacing might do the trick. 

Any thoughts?  Suggestions on suppliers?

[OldHouseScott]

I'm thinking the greenies are fine, but you might want to reverse the circuit to see if you can eliminate electros. I bought some Belcat brand ODs which are clones of the TS and bluesbreaker and found several electros added in the audio path (compared to original schematics) and was able to direct couple in most instances. Also changed some values around the tone pots. Before, the pedals were thin and weak sounding, now they sound fantastic. If you can't direct couple, maybe you could at least switch to a film cap in places.

If you're still intent on switching to WIMAs, check out Mouser, Newark, and DigiKey. I once ordered a bunch of WIMA style box caps for a Pultec clone project, all in different values and sizes from Newark. Several came shipped together, but often they would come one or two at a time. It was funny (but sad given the waste) to get a cardboard box the size of a VHS tape in the mail with only one tiny box capacitor in it.

[jjasilli]

What do you mean by direct couple?

I can't find a schematic of my BBE Orange Squash (formerly known as the main Squeeze).  But, the BBE is based on the old Dan Armstrong orange squeezer compressor.  A schematic of the Armstrong pedal is attached.  I'm not sure which electrolytics in the BBE pedal are direclty in the signal path.  But my smallest electrolytics are 2X 2.2uF (then 10uF).  I doubt I could fit film caps of that size in the pedal box. 

[OldHouseScott]

Well, in my case, there were two opamp sections that were connected by resistor in the original version. On mine, the clones had two electros on either side of the resistor. No reason for them to be there, so out they came to be replaced by jumpers.

In your case, the only electro in the path looks like the one after the opamp, although you could say the one in series with the resistor to the negative input is part of the audio path. The other big electros are part of the side chain and shouldn't affect the sound quality, just the attack and release times. Yeah, at those values, it may be tough finding small enough parts to fit.

[jjasilli]

OK, thanks for the input.  I'm gonna hold-off on any mods to the pedal.  It sounds good enough, and I have other tube amp projects, where at least I have a clue.   

[jjasilli]

On second thought:  when I get around to it, I'll map out a schematic for my BBE pedal which is a tad more complex than the original Dan Armstrong.  Then I'll know which electrolytic cap is coupling the IC > vol pot > output Jack.  You're right about that being the most important component to upgrade.   There is room on the footswitch side of the pedal box for a large film cap. 

Maybe I could repoalce that electrolytic, or at least bypass it with a film cap to shoot for some tonal improvement.  That could add noise due to long signal leads.  If so, then maybe shielded cable for the film cap.