Poll- Lets create some custom chassis here on the forum

[moonbird]

Tubenit --

You are so responsive, organized and sharp -- why don't YOU run for Pres!!

Another benefit of the modular chassis would be during assembly, repairs and mods. I have often wished I could take off one of the sides of a chassis to tough-up a nasty solder joint or rescue a dropped nut or washer. Wiring up pots would be great if you could lay down the side of the chassis and then bolt it on.

It would be easy to add/subtract a socket or pot. Maybe have testing panels that would include ports that may not be on the final design.

Hope this happens -- I think Tubenit is leading the way!!!

[tubenit]

Here is what I have in mind.

3 chassis

Various front plate panels for different models

With respect, Tubenit

[tubenit]

Reposted from the first page so they can be viewed along side of the post above this one.

IF we are going the modular route where we will punch our own holes for tubes or drill for pots (on some of the designs) ...........

then I strongly would prefer Aluminum chassis with a sturdy thickness to them.

Tubenit

[tubenit]

Type 1 would be a tweed chassis with on/off on front panel.  It would have room to punch out four 12AX7 holes (preamp/LTPI) ...........BUT only two would be punched out for two 12AX7 and three 8 pin holes.  You'd need a 8pin to 9pin conversion plate.  That would allow 5Y3GT or 5V4 rectifiers.  18.5' x 2.5" x 6"

With the possibility of four 12AX7 holes, you could build a Tweed BluezMeister (which I have done with that size chassis) ........... OR a 56T .......... OR a Little Wing.......etc.....

Lots of options.

Type 2 would be a box chassis that could be a head or combo.  18.5" x 3" x 6.5"   It would be punched out for four 12AX7's and three 8 pin holes. Again there would be 8pin to 9 pin conversion plates.  

NOTE: You'd need it punched out in a way that could allow two more 9 pin holes for the four EL84's punched out for the AC30

Type 3 would be a box chassis  20" x 3" x 6.5"-8" (either is OK for me).
It would have 5 12AX7 holes and three 8 pin holes.

You could offer 3 chassis & (if possible) 10 faceplates to get it all covered. If you sold the faceplates, then you could punch out ALL the options of the front panel since the faceplates would cover NOT used holes.

With respect, Tubenit

[punkykatt]

I would leave a bit more space between the PT and the OT for a choke. Great ideas Tubenit.

[TIMBO]

Now ya COOKIN    

[terminalgs]

The magnatone custom series (m10, m15, etc) had a very scaleable chassis.
The design allowed small amps with 4 tubes up to stereo amps with 13 tubes
And 2 output transformers (13 novals), stand up OTs.  The front had a grid
Of 45 holes (3x15) that could be used for pots, switches or jacks.  Different
Amps got different face plates the covered all the holes. The chassis was heavy
Gauge (maybe 18gauge"") the face plate was light gauge,  maybe 24 or 26.

It might be worth looking at some of sluckey's m10 gut shots to get an idea.
The manufacturer could make a strong heavy gauge chassis with the matrix
Of control holes, and a blank faceplate with no holes drilled, but with a small
Guide hole drilled on the back for each possible hole that the home builder
Could drill with a hand drill.

On top,  i'd punch 4 octals and maybe 8 novals.  An optional cover plate with four
 novals that would lineup over octals could be included for all noval amps.
Extra holes for grommet access, no transformer holes, use standups (or) one
Large hole (maybe for a bassman PT?) with a cover plate.

On back nema c14 power and 8 or so holes for fuses, output jacks, switches etc

[PRR]

> focus on 2 widths and 2 hole configurations

Here's the thing. Fender had one style in the 1950s, in maybe 2 widths and several lengths and hole-counts. Then another style in the 1960s, couple widths and several lengths.

Then Marshall did about the same thing but different "standard" width and detailing.

And VOX.

Most of these, you can see they re-set the press-brake stops only a couple times a year, as seldom as possible without sitting on heaps of bent metal inventory. Many are not box-brake but use stamped end panels.

> a manufacturer's product will be refined

Conversely, a "copy/tribute" amp "must not" be refined to actual need. The mojo is in (so buyers think) the historic shape and detailing. And building a 3-knob amp on a 10-knob chassis is awkward; a 50-watt chassis won't fit a combo-cab for 8" speaker.

And if you do tool-up for a range of copy-chassis you will learn that Weber and CeraTone and several others, some working in low-wage areas, already have the more-popular chassis covered.

OTOH, some builders and buyers accept non-historic chassis. Actually the Bud and Hammonds are "historic", just not what Fender/Marshall used. Worked well for me. I would have liked more choice of depths; but if Hammond can't afford to stock many H*W*D combinations, you can't either. And moreso than historic chassis, on a non-historic chassis the PT and tube and knob positions can't be standardized.

There's also cost. The full BOM for even a little Champ is a lot of bucks. Buyers are musicians and few of them have a lot of money. So builders are forced to lowest-price chassis (unless they can promote a super-sexy chassis to a higher price for a weathy dentist).

One specific "need": everybody hates the IEC. How about a 5-side dog-box which screws down on the top surface of any chassis and has the IEC hole in the end? Not a high-cost part, but perhaps high-value for many buiders.

[overtone]

Some very good points there PRR, especially about the IEC.
Even a flat plate with the IEC stamped out and four holes to screw it over our wonky IEC holes would be a great help!

[mresistor]

very nice work Tubenit and I love the modular idea...very flexible.......
this would work well for the back and front panels  alu channel

[EL34]

I guess you guys scared Jerry away   

[John]

Nah! He's just busy working up the PowerPoint presentation. 

[Tom_Hull]

only two cents ,,maybe i missed reading a post  



can you use the idea of push out metal holes ..

similar to an electrical box .or similar press out design holes

square .triangle ..round holes .

pressout circles,,, on top of each other small to large where needed .. push or press out the size one needs  ..

tom

[stingray_65]

One specific "need": everybody hates the IEC. How about a 5-side dog-box which screws down on the top surface of any chassis and has the IEC hole in the end? Not a high-cost part, but perhaps high-value for many buiders.

I like the IEC.

It makes sense, when the cord is yanked on it can pull out of the back of the amp. and there is a spare cord on the back of every computer too!

what I dont like is IEC w/ fuse

an IEC plate w/ a DD hole for a buss fuse holder would be very attractive

[jlwhaley]

I have not been scared off yet, but it is getting a little hairy. Sorry it has taken so long for me to post, but we have been very busy lately -- that is a good thing for the people who work here. I'm looking at all this excellent input and beginning to wonder if it is possible to build a "generic" chassis since everyone's needs are so specific. Here are a few points that seem to be generic from what I am reading.

1) Punched IEC (Power) connector hole is very much desired.

2) Two or three 1" (?) punched 8-pin tube socket holes desired (with 8-pin to 9-pin hole adaptor plates also desired).

3) Three to six 3/4" punched 9-pin tube socket holes desired (with tube hole cover plates also desired).

4) The two most common lengths mentioned are 18" and 20"

5) Depth needs to be at least 6.5"

6) Height of 3" would work for most designs.

If I incorporated these items into a 0.080" channel chassis, box chassis, or modular chassis that has a light textured black powder coat finish on the outside surfaces and small pilot holes in place for the rest of the (sometimes) necessary, or (sometimes) optional, openings that the builder could drill to their individual preference, would I be headed in the right direction for a "generic" chassis? 

[John]

Yes. Actually that should be more than enough options for 3/4 of what is needed. I think those chassis would go over great with the less experienced guys like myself. The IEC hole is the biggest "cool thing".

Speaking only for myself, the blank I used on my first timer was 8" wide (or deep) and had the lips on the ends, not the front and back. Once I got past the aesthetic part of that, I really appreciated it with all the tweaking on the pots and everything else - that is, not having to work around a 1/2" lip. FWIW, the corners were not welded either, and it's plenty stable for my use.

Just my 2 pennies.

[tubenit]

If I incorporated these items into a 0.080" channel chassis, box chassis, or modular chassis that has a light textured black powder coat finish on the outside surfaces and small pilot holes in place for the rest of the (sometimes) necessary, or (sometimes) optional, openings that the builder could drill to their individual preference, would I be headed in the right direction for a "generic" chassis?   

That sounds reasonable and headed the right direction, IMO.

With respect, Tubenit

[tubenit]

The two most common lengths mentioned are 18" and 20"

I did not catch that you said 18".  It's NOT a big deal, but I would prefer 18.5". Sometimes that .5" extra is useful.

I build my own cabinets and typically used 3/4" boards. Doing it that way gives me a 20" width cab.

19.5" cab would be OK, but just sort of an odd dimension?

With respect, Tubenit

[overtone]

sounds all good & I think the small pilot holes would be really very helpful.
Some of the aluminium stock channel that I was using had a small groove running all the way along the inside center of the extrusion. I appreciated that.
Best, tony

[John]

Sometimes that .5" extra is useful.

I gotta hear it from my wife, and now here???

[moonbird]

Bump

Any news on this front!?!?! 

[navdave]

I'm with tubenit except I build amps 50 watts and bigger. An
ideal chassis for me would be a blank 24"x7"x2.5" boxed ends with
and inward mounting lip.

[duke of earl]

I like the Fender black/silverface chassis but not angled in the front-just straight up and down. This makes cabinetmaking easier.

[EL34]

Jerry the manufacturer sent me another drawing based on all the feedback here

It's a generic chassis with block off plates, etc

I can't tell much from the hand drawing he sent
He is going to send me a sample when they get time.
They are really busy right now so it may be a while till I see what they came up with

[quayhog]

I'd like to see a basic Ampeg B-15 style chassis with tube cage.  Thanks for asking.