Poll- Lets create some custom chassis here on the forum

[EL34]

Look up above - Vote for the chassis style you are interested in
You can to vote for more than one style
I can also go back and add more voting options
If you choose Some other shape - please explain down below


A chassis building company would like to hash out some designs that you guys think would be useful.
They will make them and have them on hand or I may stock them here

My idea is to:
Keep the designs generic so that many different amps could be built in the same chassis.
Maybe block off plates for tube holes not being used?

Maybe 2 to 4 basic shaped chassis?
A long chassis for building Fender/Marshall type heads and Combos?
A small chassis box for Stouts or single ended amps?
Maybe a tweed style chassis?

Don't split off in ten directions
Try and hash out something that many people would find useful for their projects.

Just throwing out ideas
Jerry (the manufactuer) will be checking into this post to help hash out the designs.
Some of the problems I see are transformer hole sizes being very different
You could have an over sized tranny hole and different block off plate sizes - Not sure how to solve this?
I have all the tranny hole sizes listed on the library page

Another issue is four power tube amps
If you make a chassis long enough for 4 power tubes, it will be too long for most other people.
I would say to stay with 1 and 2 power tube amp chassis for now and see how that goes?

Maybe set up the chassis to use the removable power receptacles and IEC cords?

Jerry can jump in and throw out ideas on how to solve any issues we may encounter


Here's a pic showing some popular chassis configs
Small generic box like a Dukane chassis or a PA amp chassis?
Long Marshall 18 watt style chassis?
Fender Tweed style chassis?
Fender combo style chassis
 

[EL34]

I am saving this post space for the manufacturer

[EL34]

reserved space - Please post down below the features you need on your amp chassis.

[rafe]

I like the fender combo but in a one channel like a champ (I voted other, should I change that to
Fender combo?) I'd like a slant face single champ or a little bigger 2 input six holes for pots

* EL34 Make sure you voted for this at the top.
Good point - I don't think too many people want the non reverb channel on a Fender combo chassis
It would make the chassis much nicer IMO to have just the reverb channel

BTW, a champ is not a combo
I am thinking the Fender combo chassis starts with Princeton reverb and ends with a large amp like a super or Pro reverb.
A champ could be built in a small box if needed

[John]

I chose the small box, and 18W/Marshall.


Not sure how difficult it would be to make, but the plates for different size trannies and socket hole covers is a good idea. Even would be nice if perhaps the socket holes were made for octal size with plates made to fit over to take the 9 pin sockets.
 

* EL34 Yeah, sounds like that may work.
Other wise you have 5 different chassis for just the Fender combo style amps and that is not gonna work for me.
Once we nail some things down we could have votes on the socket hole sizes and other small details

[tubenit]

Just reflecting my own thing here ......... but since I don't build clones,

I'd like to see two chassis blanks that are a reasonable thickness aluminum

One in the blank Marshall Tweedish 18 watt style  20" x 6" x 2.5"

(I have hacksawed those 20" tweed chassis blanks down to 18.5" in two builds)

The other blank with closed in ends like a box  that is 20" x 6.5" (or 7-8") X 2.5"

The latter one would be good for the Tweed Overdrive type amps.

With respect, Tubenit

[P Batty]

If doable a Princeton Reverb chassis plus a super-reverb chassis. Those two should cover most of the slope front style needs, with seven holes for pots on the front for the reverb channel.

[ernie_jr]

I vote for a blank closed end 20 x 6.5 (or 7) by 2.5 or 3
same as tubenit second blank

* EL34 - Well that's basically the Marshall chassis shown above without any holes. So what did you vote for?

[firemedic]

So many guys (& girls) seem to be doing multiple preamps into a single output, tube effects loops, tremolo, reverb, paralleled triodes, or whatever. A Super/Twin or 100W Marshall chassis seems more versatile in the possible builds & mods you can do.

[Cups]

How about a blank with just the holes for the tubes up top ( for  a head or reverse it for a combo)
Then the builder can decide what knobbage and drill what he'd like and the difficult part (octal and noval holes) are already done.

Basically anything that can be done at home with a drill wouldn't be included.

[ernie_jr]

Doug,
I voted for "other"

* EL34 - yeah, I guess we are just hashing out basic shapes, not all the little detail like holes. I think the Marshall chassis would be what Jeff and Ernie are describing, no?

[echuta13]

What about transformer mount options as well?  I for the most part don't use transformers that lay down.  

* EL34 - see the top post about block off plates

[EL34]

You can go back and change your vote and you can vote for multiple chassis shapes

All we are working out for the moment is basic shapes, not all the holes, etc

[TIMBO]

Hi guys, My idea is way outside the box. The chassis are made in three pieces front panel , back panel and deck. The front and back panels can be blank or ordered with pre-drilled holes etc. or sloped and supplied with printed face plates (because you know how hard they are to get)The deck could be ordered pre-punched as well.The three pieces are then bolted together to form the chassis  :think1:Thanks

* EL34 - That's an interesting idea - modular construction

[JayB]

A large style Marshall with five preamp holes?

[DummyLoad]

i voted other shape.

fender princeton sized combo w/ 3 octal and 4 9pin punched you can build just about anything short of a full blown dumble. front panel holes on a fender combo are a bitch to drill, so maybe full compliment of holes and let the builder cover the unused holes with a custom face-plate. i think it will accommodate deluxe, princeton reverbs, deluxe reverbs, and head style (AB165) bassman builds.

for "other" shapes - two would be ideal 17.5x8x2.5 and 24x8x2.5. either with just the IEC punched, and maybe 1/2" hole for the fuse holder. leave the tranny patterns to the end user or offer CNC machining services for the trannies you sell. charge a machining fee + buyer has to buy the trannie(s). 0.09" thick Al would be a big +.

i have my own CNC and vertical mill, so it's really not a problem for RicharD and i, however, the combo front panel is a different story altogether.

the final vote tally will be interesting since most folks here seem to be building smaller amps lately.

--DL

[tubenit]

Hi guys, My idea is way outside the box. The chassis are made in three pieces front panel , back panel and deck. The front and back panels can be blank or ordered with pre-drilled holes etc. or sloped and supplied with printed face plates (because you know how hard they are to get)The deck could be ordered pre-punched as well.The three pieces are then bolted together to form the chassis  :think1:Thanks

* EL34 - That's an interesting idea - modular construction

Brilliant!  I like that idea lot.

with respect, Tubenit

[shortfuse]

Large Marshall style chassis & 17 X 6.5 X 3.  Blanks

[LooseChange]

Everybody is into different stuff and it changes all the time.
I build all my amps using the Hammond chassis. I use the 12 x 10 and the 16 x 8 most often. I would love to have them drilled out for me but everything I do is custom.

I think it's going to be hard to get a consensus.

$0.02

[firemedic]

+1 for modular

[sluckey]

I think it's going to be hard to get a consensus.

I bet we can all reach a consensus on that statement!   

[SLW]

I would like to see tweed and Marshall styles in a couple different lengths.  Having the IEC hole punched would be handy.

[Madison]

"Some other shape"-
Modular-that could be broken down to fit into a padded envelope/flat box.Offer "L" pieces for right angles and assembly.Pre tapped-for flat head screws.
I think I asked Doug about offering this before.
But I do a lot of custom work too so it's endlessly changing.

I think it's going to be hard to get a consensus.

I bet we can all reach a consensus on that statement!    

I agree.

[EL34]

Not sure how strong a bolted together module chassis would be, but it's a cool idea

They do that sort of thing for rack gear with different front and back panels

[Heinz]

I have used this method with a 2mm aluminum sheet and 3mm U profiles for front and back. I used short screws to bolt it together and it is very sturdy.  In fact it is so sturdy that the open sides don't need reinforcements.

EDIT: replaced links with attachments

[Fresh_Start]

Heinz - links don't work.

IEC holes are a PITA to cut.  I bought a couple of blank chassis that had nothing else cut in them other than the IEC holes.

There are plenty of chassis options out there if you want to build an 18-Watt, Princeton Reverb, etc. with the stock number of tubes & controls. 

IMHO it would be great to have a couple of generic head chassis - large & "small" - with IEC, front panel and tube holes done precisely.  Opening for a lay-down PT is somewhat problematic, but that's an even bigger pain to cut yourself so offering a PT cut as an up-charge option would be perfect for me (but not for vendor).  OTOH Hammond offers a lot of different stand-up PTs.

Small chassis: 2 input jacks, 7 (or 8 control knobs), pilot light, four 9-pin & three 8-pin tubes.

Big chassis:  2 input jacks, 10 control knobs, pilot light (or Marshall switch), four 9-pin & four 8-pin tubes (SS rectification plus 4 power tubes -or- just use 3 of the 4).

To me, a generic back panel is virtually impossible.  Reverb/none, foot pedal(s)?, speaker jack(s), effects loop?, and I'm sure I've left some possibilities out.

I love the modular concept but would prefer to have end caps of some sort too, particularly for bolting chassis to cab/head box.

With deflation, that's 1 cent...

Cheers,

Chip

[kagliostro]

+ 1 for the modular construction chassis as Timbo told

simple but effective

Front and back panels + the aluminium sheet that Doug can pre-drill as from costumer order or sell without holes (or only with assembling holes + fuse hole and VDE Intake - square hole are always a problem)

Kagliostro

[EL34]

Sorry, I can't do any machine shop stuff

I am pretty much tied up with all the other stuff I have to do

[mresistor]

Heinz - that's pretty cool !

[EL34]

Heinz,
Those looks like simple aluminum extrusions which are very strong

You could take that concept and change it around really easy

Back panel could have switch, fuse holes, etc
Top could have tube socket holes
bottom could be solid or no bottom at all

[jlwhaley]

Hello, I represent the manufacturer that is considering production of a "standard" set of chassis for the amp building community, as if there is such a thing as a standard chassis. We currently build OEM enclosures for over 100 companies and no two are exactly alike. That being said, I can see that the 18W Marshall and the Fender Combo have a slight lead in the poll. That's a start.

I see some good "outside the box" ideas too. If possible, try to focus on 2 widths and 2 hole configurations. I can probably justify 4 chassis, beyond that I would be out on a big, long, thin limb with the top management here. I find the modular idea interesting, so I may have to look at some concepts and pricing in that area. Keep in mind that a manufacturer's product will be refined to have the best utilization of space (tight internally). A personal builder can afford to have more space (and first time builders probably need it). The hard part of dealing with a metal chassis is bending, and punching big holes. Keep this in mind if you think a minimalist approach is good. You can let us do the hard part and leave some of the work for you and your tools. A simple metal channel with the big holes punched may be best option. I don't really know. That is what I need to get from you, the builders.

We are not ready to define the holes yet, but I will throw one idea out there for your comment. I may be wrong, but it appears to me that dual small output tubes and dual large output tubes cover "most" designs, with covering up a hole being an option if only one output tube is used. A couple of big holes for the PS capacitors appear to be needed as well. The number of tubes before the output does seem to vary a lot. Consider having plenty and covering those not used.

I look forward to your comments and ideas.

PS - I'm new to the forum. If I am not "performing to spec" let me know.

Regards

Jerry

[TIMBO]

Hi guys, Heinz is on the mark of where i was going and i have done a similar construction on my first builds (flat pieces of alli fixed together with angle)

The front panel :-
It could have pot and switch holes pre-drilled to suit both Fender/Marshall standard face plates (on one panel) and the face plate is going to cover over the unused holes anyway and if it is a custom build then the required holes are used and the face plate is made to suit. The panel can be flipped to make a reverse chassis. Parts of this idea can apply to sloped front.

The back panel :-
1/8 holes could be pre-drilled in a way that if the builder required extra holes (foot sw,speaker etc.)he could drill the hole to the required size and the left over 1/8 holes would be great ventilation for the chassis.
IEC socket hole would be great

The deck :-
Standard tube spacing Fender/Marshall (on one deck)with supplied pre cut/drilled disc to cover unused holes.
Deck can be flipped for reverse chassis.
PT and OT Hoffman standard mounting holes could be pre-drilled (may applied to circuit boards as well)

A supplied angle piece of alli could be used for the Marshall box setup.

Overall :-
If holes are pre-drilled to suit Hoffman parts i'm sure a kit could be put together

Just some ideas, thanks

[John]

The more I think about it, probably the best compromise for everyone - builder and manufacturer - would be the blank chassis with the big holes done ( IEC also). If you stuck with big holes and IEC only, 3 or 4 different templates would be serve most needs. 

Even in steel,  3/8 and smaller holes are a breeze. It's the 3/4 -7/8 that are a pain.

Then again, if you end up with more holes in the face than you need, just fill them with important looking switches. 

[tubenit]

OK, if we are narrowing it down to 2 primary choices:

A tweed style chassis (open ends) 20"x 6.5" x 2.5"  

Back panel punched out for power cord IEC hole. Top of the chassis punched out for  four 9pin holes, two 8pin holes (with 9 pin plate adapters)  and one 8pin hole (for rectifier tube).  Nothing else punched out.


A closed end box chassis  21" X 8"  X  3"

Back panel punched out for power cord IEC hole. Top of the chassis punched out for five 9pin holes and three 8 pin holes.  Nothing else punched out.

Drilling holes and cutting out a square for the PT is not that hard.

With respect, Tubenit

[Madison]

Heinz' method rocks.
I use 2mm aluminum a lot.

[overtone]

Modular! There are so many standard generic options out there. Only when the box is really wide or long does the market thin out.

Recently I ordered enough 51mm U Channel and flat plate to do about 12 amps like the Heinz method / "out of the box" suggestion. I feel much better now seeing Heinz's results. I had already done one test-run and it was very sturdy. I saw the sections and plate in a friend's architecture office, they were samples for a facade, and he gave me a load but they were only about a foot long. Now I am trying for 645 x 265mm and a slope front. The Alu- plate is 3mm. I will probably add sides because of the size.

I voted for other because:

1. for a modular solution, as already mentioned, some kind of elegant connector, that perhaps could handle a slope front version would be really useful. With the fixings supplied you would get over any metric / imperial thread issues.

2. While walking the dog a while back I had an idea for a simple folded C shape, modular, but not very wide- maybe each section only 2 to 3", with different punched holes- to mix and match along the length. Have I lost everbody? (There is something like this for 19" rack panels, one piece for each cut out xlr, or whatever). I will try and sketch it later on today, but it way work out too complicated and pricey.

best, tony

[moody]

Can the under lip of these chassis be pre cut for cage nuts for easy attachment to cabinets?

[RicharD]

From a marketing standpoint, I'd suggest picking a couple of the most popular models and undercutting the competition by a few bucks.  For us re-inventors of the wheel, the modular ideas are very cool and that gets you a product that nobody else offers.  I'll burn a few brain cells thinking about something widely flexible -n- universal.

[EL34]

I already figured out how I would do it

A cnc jig that holds the U channel face up in long lengths.
You could cut any number of different front and rear panel configs
The machine would cut all the holes and shapes and trim both ends to perfect length

Mcmaster has a bunch of different widths
I think 3 inch wide x .125" thick would be the ticket

Fenders are only 2 inches high
You'd have to take 1/4 inch off the width for the thickness of the material and so you end up with 2.75 inch interior space on the U channel

[sluckey]

Doug, why not do it like your board material? Get a sheet metal shop to bend up some 8 foot long chassis using .08 aluminum. Use 6.5" X 2.5" with a .5" lip. Then all you have to do is crosscut to length. Sell by the inch. Keep it simple. Blank chassis only. DIY if you want holes.    

Here's a sample of what I mean. I cut this chassis to length from a 24" blank using a radial arm saw.

[EL34]

Sounds good, but I don't have time to take on anything more that involves shop labor.
If I wanted to take on more stress in my life I could open a machine shop and have employees and do all sorts of cool things.

Many years ago I started to dump everything that involved my labor so I could focus on just the parts business.
The way I like to do it these days is to design something and then turn it over to a machine shop.

The blank chassis idea is not a bad one, but I would have to have pre-made lengths on hand
I had blank chassis for sale many years ago, but they got too expensive to have made in small batches.

This whole thread is about a manufactuer that contacted me asking if they could design some chassis that I or you guys would be interested in buying
So I guess we should let Jerry soak all this in and see what his ideas are.
If he cannot come up with anything you guys would be interested in then so be it.

If anything comes out of this thread and what sticks in my brain from all of this so far, is the modular panel idea.

[tubenit]

the modular panel idea.

I think that would go well and the guys from other amp building forums would buy it also, IMO.

With respect, Tubenit

[TIMBO]

Hi guys, I talked to my sheet metal guy and his thoughts would be to have the front and back panels done in 1.6mm steel and the deck done in 2.5mm alli. The reason for this is that the steel has tighter bends and will bend better for the slope fronts ( can be painted ) and having alli for the deck tends not to twist as much ( also the octal when mounted under the deck sit nice and flush on top  )

He informs me that a laser cutter can be programmed to cut any shape and once programmed they then can be massed produced (i know EL that this is not what you yourself are wanting to do and the cost of the set up might be too much.

I do a lot of business with these guys at at times they do me a few favours and would do me a one off pretty cheep but who knows whether this idea will take off. Thanks

[kagliostro]

All those are nice and interesting ideas

I think that the more simple and effective is Sluckey's idea

only one or two very long chassis (different width) made by correct thickness aluminum that will be cut as from customer request

this will lower the cost to you and to the customer

if desired, as you use only two measures, it will be easy to have also a "C" alluminium profile pre cutted in the corners by the manufacturer to close the sides

Kagliostro

[bluesbear]

Box shaped chassis 20"x8"x2.5", closed sides, small lip (3/8" or 1/2") on 20" edge for strength, aluminum and/or steel. Matching faceplates of the same material would be important, also.
As I've gotten down to a single design, all the same except for the PT cutout, I'd love to order small (5 at a time) batches with all holes but the smallest holes precut. Doug, I know you can't do that... for the same reason I don't want to. Just too much time involved!
This comes at the perfect time. I just used the last of my Komboking chassis and I signed in just to ask where to find more (since Mike is not doing it any more). My local machine shop sold their equipment and went to strictly welding. I need 5 more... and soon!
Thanks!
Dave

[G._Hoffman]

Personally, I'd like to see a fairly large head sized blank chassis made of a fairly high gauge steel.  It's a bit harder to work with, but I like the feel of steel a more than Aluminum.  Kind of like the chassis used in Marshals, but without any holes, or even better with just the IEC hole cut.  I can drill round holes easily, and I kind of like stand up PT's, but that IEC hole is a pain in the butt.



Gabriel

[archaos]

I think it's going to be hard to get a consensus.

I bet we can all reach a consensus on that statement!   

 

[tubenit]

REPOSTED on the page 2

[EL34]

Nice drawings Jeff

[tubenit]

Reposted 2nd page