Lego's spin on Sluckey's spin of Hoffmans Revibe

[lego4040]

Since I was floored by Sluckeys AC/15 I decided to build his Revibe   I don't need another amp but who couldn't use a tube reverb all by its self. I gave Sluckey a shout out and he asked me to post it cause lots of guys are interested in this stand alone. So here it goes: My first lesson was order as much as possible from as few sources as possible, saves on shipping( I could have gotten a few nos tubes on last build for excess shipping) I ordered all my caps, resistors, trannies and sockets so far. Board and turrets tomorrow, Im wiped out

[sluckey]

Glad to see you going for it. I had more fun with this project than any of my other stuff. After doing the AC15 this will be a breeze. You should see a lot of similarities between the two layouts. If you are going to mount the reverb tank on the chassis as I did be sure to get a 17" x 6.5" x 2.5" chassis. You know where to get it.

[sluckey]

Lego, I've updated the website to show the minor changes due to me rearranging the power supply nodes. Hopefully the pics and my pdf are in agreement with each other now. Be sure to download the this latest version of the pdf. It'll save you 4 turrets.

[sluckey]

I just paired the Revibe with the AC15. You're gonna like it!

[lego4040]

  EVERYTHING ordered for this project and all parts on the way, Sluckey thanks for the updated PDF but I'll have reprint since I printed this one out on Monday. For tubes I went :12AX7 / 7025 Japanese made.
 Nice tube, similar to Mullard in construction. Many different brands, most made at the Matshushita factory, which was set up by Mullard U.K. Some late 1970s types also. All better than the junk being made today, at a lower price!
SPECIAL PRICE! RARE SQ Type Philips label Amperex E180CC (7062 / 12AT7 premium tube), military stock

New Old Stock in original military boxes. MORE STOCK JUST IN! A very nice Amperex made 7062 tube, which is nearly identical with the 12AT7 and 5965 type, which has just a bit lower gain than the 12AT7. These are the low noise audio screened, 10,000hr. rated heater life tubes. Sweet sounding and smooth, add to that the extra quiet and sonic focus of vintage Amperex manufacture, and you may never go back to a 12AT7 once you hear these.
7408 Industrial grade 6V6GT, various brands

New Old Stock whitebox. Nice heavy duty 6V6GT on par with the GTY and VT107A military types.

[lego4040]

Looked at your update, when your adding the led you say to omit the 22uf/4.7k on those lugs. I kinda understand since the led only let's voltage thru one way. You don't loose the operations that those two were doing? You also omited the 22uf next to it that was connected to the 1.5k

[sluckey]

Looked at your update, when your adding the led you say to omit the 22uf/4.7k on those lugs. I kinda understand since the led only let's voltage thru one way. You don't loose the operations that those two were doing?

The LED also provides fixed bias for the oscillator since it has a constant voltage drop across it. The LED completely replaces the resistor and cap and allows for a more constant (within reason) LFO signal amplitude across the entire LFO frequency range.

You also omited the 22uf next to it that was connected to the 1.5k

Remember I rearranged the B+ nodes? When I did that I had to lower the gain of V5A to compensate for the higher B+ that was feeding it. The easiest way was to just remove the cathode bypass cap for V5A. All this was done to balance the amplitudes of the dual phase LFO signals. You no longer need that cap.

[lego4040]

Ah, I left first print out at work and couldn't compare. First bunch of parts came in today when I got my mail, I ordered the 17.5x6.5x2.5 chassis for this and I have beautiful unfinished redish mahagony flooring for sides.

[lego4040]

Sluckey, how much work involved into adding another 6v6 and turning this into Princton Reverbish amp? out of curiosity

[lego4040]

Page 3&4 are two different wiring setups, in your picture I see you are using page 4 but not using the 100ohm resistors to lamps, your using the green/grnyellow tap to ground. I know you use can use either way but not both at same time, you just put them on the board and didnt use them

[sluckey]

Sluckey, how much work involved into adding another 6v6 and turning this into Princton Reverbish amp? out of curiosity

The PR is a total new project. Just build this project as is.

[sluckey]

Page 3&4 are two different wiring setups, in your picture I see you are using page 4 but not using the 100ohm resistors to lamps, your using the green/grnyellow tap to ground. I know you use can use either way but not both at same time, you just put them on the board and didnt use them

Page 4 is not a wiring diagram. It is used to show how to physically place the components on the chassis for drilling purposes.

RE: 100Ω resistors... I had not chosen a PT when I designed the board so I put the resistors on board in case I needed an artificial center tap. If you use the same PT that I used, you can eliminate the resistors and those 4 turrets..

[lego4040]

hence thats where I will save those 4 turrets for next project, Im super physced that the revibe sounds great with the ac15. I was looking at those avatars and trying to figure out a way to stuff both of those inside   Maybe the Revibe inside and the vox on top

[sluckey]

I'm gonna keep my revibe as a separate unit. That way it's easy to use with any amp.

[lego4040]

  Three Boxes of parts came in today including the tubes. Ive been buying my tubes from audiotubes.com and they are the nicest people I have spoken to: Thats a El80ccsq version of the 12at7, I was blown away at how much nos 12ax7s cost. Im waiting for one more box from Ken over at Turretboard, its on its way tho. I can start laying out drilling template on the chassis hopefully tomorrow. I still need a head for the Sluckeys vox, but I did swap in some Nos tubes

[sluckey]

I can start laying out drilling template on the chassis hopefully tomorrow

I have updated the pdf again. Last time, I promise! The chassis layout now includes my real dimensions. May be helpful when laying out your chassis.

The very first thing I mounted on the chassis was the reverb unit. Next came the row of tubes, caps, and OT across the back. Then the board. You may have to slightly reposition the board to clear the screws for the reverb unit. Once these are in place you will see how to drop the PT in.

[lego4040]

You are a scholar and a gentleman

[moonbird]

I just paired the Revibe with the AC15. You're gonna like it!

Hi Sluckey!!


Just lurking here . What did you mean by this? I plan to build both the AC15 and Revibe so I would be interested. Thanks much for these great projects!!!

[sluckey]

I plugged my guitar into the revibe and plugged the revibe into the ac15

[lego4040]

Busted out the board and got this done

[lego4040]

Weber parts came in and that's the last of waiting for supplies

[sluckey]

I do like black. Is the board 1/8" G10 fiberglass? Hope you have some pretty colors to load on it. Blue is my favorite. 

Take a look at this pic....   http://home.comcast.net/~seluckey/amps/revibe/revibe_03_big.jpg

Notice the screw head about the center of the board directly above that blue e-cap? That's a fifth standoff that was not on the drill guide. I added that after drilling the board for extra support. Probably overkill. Now is a good time to add that standoff hole if you think the board may flex too much.

[lego4040]

Here are some of the parts on board, they are just to show, not actual spot. I don't like the blue cap but I can live with it. I just have a couple more under board wires, go over top side again to check correctness and I'll start populating.
 

[lego4040]

almost finished board, I've been in slow mode lately

[sluckey]

You don't need that cap and resistor. Look at my completed pics and get the updated pdf.

[lego4040]

You were reading my mind Steve, I was gonna write earlier about that when I realized I was still building of of old plans. The under board wiring has changed as well I see

[lego4040]

Made the change, thanks for the heads up

[lego4040]

Started marking out chassis for all the holes

[EL34]

geez, with all those parts, I hope you order something from me?

[lego4040]

I do Doug I do. This project I ordered the all two trannies, resistors, plus others. I will need a Faceplate to be made so before I drill my holes I need to make accurate measurements. Anyone have a good source for faceplates?

[EL34]

Thanks, I appreciate your business 

[sluckey]

I will need a Faceplate to be made so before I drill my holes I need to make accurate measurements. Anyone have a good source for faceplates?

I've got some artwork for my layout. Does this appeal to you?

EDIT... Is this better? This fits my chassis exactly. The background size can easily be changed to fit another size chassis. I'm guessing yours is 17.5 x 6.5 x 2.5?

[lego4040]

 :bravo1:That is awesome, are you gonna make that print out available with measurements??????? I would go with another color scheme besides yellow. I would like to see forest green with white lettering maybe. I have a program that I barely know how to use that lots of guys over at BYOC use. I should learn it again and print out and try to make my own

[sluckey]

This plate was made with Visio. I can convert to full scale pdf format just like I did with the AC15 plate. Does the cream on green look better?

[lego4040]

That's what I'm talking about Sluckey, awesome work. I have some wood for sides now, a few different mahagony boards and some other African board I don't remember. PDF would be awesome and I know I've seen a few companies out there that make plates, one was on Mojotone to

[lego4040]

Hey Steve, my chassis face is 17.50" long. I would need .250 green longer on both sides of pdf if you convert that for me. if I use the wood sides like yours. If I put it in a head with a 16 1/2" chASSIS cut out I think it'll fit like that.
 

[lego4040]

Got some holes done I did oversize first main cap a hair by accident,

[lego4040]

Ok so I messed up on my arrangement when I was marking holes for tubes I had marked them on wrong side. So in this picture you'll see tubes on the opposite side of board so now my choice is flip board 180* or run tube wires under board then pot wires over top. Anyone have a suggestion? Will I have excess noise or will I be alright since it's not a high gain amp

[sluckey]

OUCH!

Don't flip the board upside down. Even if you manage to make all connections correctly, you'll hate yourself when you have to troubleshoot, replace a component, or do some simple mod.

And don't criss cross wires like you are thinking either.

The cheap way (and this ain't my choice)... Strip the chassis and drill it properly. The board and the reverb tank will hide the tube holes. No, forget this idea. The more I think of this idea, the more my head hurts.

I would just get a new chassis (They are on sale). Measure twice, cut once. That's the best I got buddy. Sorry.

[lego4040]

I ment flipping so the rectifier on other side of chassis not so the components are hidden. Man I'd hate to have to redo chassis

[lego4040]

Oh ok, btw who has them on sale?

[sluckey]

Oh ok, btw who has them on sale?

watts

[lego4040]

On his site now, will order. I can't believe I did, will leave it next project. I palm sanded it today and got a really nice brushed aluminum shine.

[sluckey]

I wish I could come up with some workable idea to salvage that chassis but every idea I have is just butt ugly.

[lego4040]

Yeah, I appreciate the help. I'll just be more careful about it next time 

[lego4040]

Steve, What if I ran tube hookup wires under turret board very tight and neatly and pot wires over turret board neatly? I'll still order a new chassis for a back up. There really isnt a lot of wires on this build

[sluckey]

If you don't care how it looks give it a try. You may get lucky and not have any noise issues.

It's not something I'd do. I have a lot more time invested in designing the layout than I did in actually drilling a chassis. So it's a no brainer decision for me, but I do understand your position too.

[lego4040]

I put the leads on the board and stared at the chassis not wanting to have to take apart. I'll order new one tonight and make all corrections when it gets in. Maybe I can salvage that for a future project  I still want my princeton reverb, 5E9A or Gibsons version of the Tremulox and this site has all the info I need

[lego4040]

Steve, do you use bottom plates on your chassis? The chassis from watts sells those but they are seperate

[sluckey]

I don't have one on my revibe but I've just been too lazy to cut one. I highly recommend using one.

If your unit will get mounted in a cab you can skip the bottom plate and just use a foil shield or screen in the cab.