First amp build (5F1) would anyone mind double checking my turret board layout?

[HexEnduction]

Hi there, first time long time! I've built about a dozen pedals in the past year and I'm really excited to be jumping into the amp world. I'm working off the 5F1 Mojotone kit and I just finished up adding all of the turret board components (still need to solder/add the offboard wiring). I checked over my work a few times but I'm paranoid that I'm missing something or that I messed something up... if anyone would be so kind, could you take a look and let me know if this looks alright? Open to any suggestions or potential improvements as well.

A couple of things to note: I moved the 16uf cap furthest left up a bit on the board as otherwise it would cover up the mounting hole (the hole isn't visible in the picture I snapped)... I didn't want to have the cap sitting on top of a screw. I also pushed that blue 10K cap at the bottom left upwards a tad so that I can more easily solder the turrets without inadvertently burning the resistor. I tested each component before installing them, everything is looking good on that end.

Wiring diagram:



My board:


Thanks so much!

[shooter]

don't forget the jumper 'tween the 2 8uF's grounds

[HexEnduction]

don't forget the jumper 'tween the 2 8uF's grounds

Ah! I meant to go back and add the two jumpers at the top... I got so focused on double checking the components themselves that I completely overlooked them. I'll be adding them. I really appreciate it!

[ac427v]

I would prefer to see a flameproof resistor for the 22k power rail dropping resistor.
Also a little more space between the 500 ohm/5 watt cathode resistor and other components to prevent possible overheating.

[HexEnduction]

I would prefer to see a flameproof resistor for the 22k power rail dropping resistor.
Also a little more space between the 500 ohm/5 watt cathode resistor and other components to prevent possible overheating.

The 22k power rail dropping resistor is 1/2 watt but searching around for ones I can only find 1w 22k metal oxide resistors so far. Just to double check, using a 1 watt resistor here would be no problem right?

And I'll add some more space between those components.

Thanks a bunch for the suggestions.

[sluckey]

Hoffman sells 22K 3W metal oxide. However, according to the schematic there is 45V dropped across that 22K. So, the power dissipation is less than 0.1 watts. A 1/2W resistor will last forever.

[HexEnduction]

Hoffman sells 22K 3W metal oxide. However, according to the schematic there is 45V dropped across that 22K. So, the power dissipation is less than 0.1 watts. A 1/2W resistor will last forever.

Gotcha, yeah I was just having some trouble finding flameproof 22k's that were 1/2 watt.

[sluckey]

Gotcha, yeah I was just having some trouble finding flameproof 22k's that were 1/2 watt.

There is a 22K 1/2W carbon comp resistor in the same position in my original 5F10 amp. After 70 years it still looks like it did the day it was put on the board.

[JPK]

More nit picky but I'd re-install the 10k resistor on the center of the eyelets like the 22k. Removing it in the future would be very difficult buried under the leads of the two caps. Plus I'm OCD and like things to line up so they look clean. The 2 68k's I'd create a little air gap between them so they don't transfer heat, better cooling. It was mentioned earlier to create gaps around components. I always try to avoid them touching if possible. It's not always possible, but it is in your case.

[tubeswell]

Fender layout
(The only thing likely to be ‘different’ from this in a modern reproduction is the heater filament wiring - where most people these days run twisted AC pairs)

https://el34world.com/charts/Schematics/files/Fender/Fender_champ_5f1_layout.png

[Platefire]

Some of us hike up the value of those power rail filter caps to get rid of the original Fender F51 humm. Think I went to 22/10/8 and it still remains a little humm