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you've mentioned tractors.. what are we talking about? I imagined farm and utility tractors http://el34world.com/Forum/index.php?topic=17418.msg174500#msg174500 Technically a utility or industrial tractor.
Basically for road-work.
1967/1968 Ford 4500 tractor. 60 horsepower 3-lung Diesel. Close to 5,000 pounds bare.
Ford front-end loader, lifts 4,500 pounds to about 13 feet.
Ford backhoe, 24" wide 34" long claw.
Simms full-metal cab with glass all around, 2 seats, and heater.
17x24 rear tires 57+ inches tall. (18-wheelers only get 10x20.)
Weight on the ground must total 10,000 pounds.
While it is clearly a farm tractor, including Ford Blue paint under the backhoe yellow, it was not assembled to work the farm. It never had key parts for a plow lift. The rapid-reverse oil-drive transmission would be wasteful in plowing, but demanded in all-day loader work. (You don't replace a tractor transmission casually, like when you put a 4-speed in your PowerGlide 1967 Chevy... the axle tranny and engine ARE the frame, and it is major heavy lifting to separate them.)
These are the machines that built your roads and dug your foundations 1960s-1980s. A bulldozer would do the rough clearing and leveling, then backhoes came in to trim the level and move mounds of small stone semi-evenly along the road, and hew the ditches. Most of these were from Case, who had a dedicated backhoe; but in many farming areas Ford had the better dealers.
Mine shows 5,000+ hours on the clock, and it does not lie. The engine has plenty of blow-by. The hoe pivots slop all over the place. Not to mention 46 years of oil-leaks and dirt piled so high I could not see the shape of the transmission.
And funny things. The loader arms have bad patches, like they had been broken-off and put back together. And bulges on the bottoms... the patches leak rain into the arms, it freezes, bulges 1/4" steel plate. I drilled test-holes and one peed black mud for 20 minutes.
Being Diesel, once you get it started, it has no need of electricity, except to watch fuel and temperature. As a bare farm tractor it had optional headlights and maybe one tail light.
However I expect to be clearing snow around the end of the driveway. If daytime I *NEED* flashers to warn drivers on the road. Also at night (often the best time to work on this street) so I need good lights front and back. And maybe a dome light also. So that's wires. The cab has front and back electric window wipers. When I got it most of this stuff was dangling or broken and crumbly. I also got a pile of rust alleged to be a heater, which is pleasant for snow work. I'd also like a volt-meter and a cigar lighter outlet (the universal 12V power source).
Electrical fire is no fun. I'm taking a 50 Amp fuse right AT the battery terminal, run back to a 6-slot fusebox with my various 10A and 20A feeds. This is mounting inside an electrical box made for alarms, with E-Z access cover. Wires up and over will be #14 THHN (good small house-wire) run inside PEX tubing so it doesn't fall-down again.
The feed from main to sub fuses is #8 wire. The fusebox turned out to be six separate 1/4" lugs. Since I had the American Beauty, it seemed to make sense to flat-down the lugs, lay the #8 across, and glob solder. It'll work, but it made me wish I'd got the $38 fuse panel with one heavy input lug.