Hoffman Amplifiers Tube Amplifier Forum
Amp Stuff => Tube Amp Building - Tweaks - Repairs => Topic started by: lego4040 on March 26, 2014, 03:04:48 pm
-
the last picture is why Im building the Vox, it needs somthing other then a fender amp. I swtiched the pressing around so the turrets wont fall out when trying to press :cussing: Otherwise thanks to all you guys on this forum and others Im enjoying and not stressing on this build. I havent choosen a chassis yet but the 20" i believe it is might be the one, I cant locate a good 17".
EL34 Edit:
Guys, please keep your image sizes as small as possible.
See this post about file sizes
http://el34world.com/Forum/index.php?topic=464.0 (http://el34world.com/Forum/index.php?topic=464.0)
This message has over 6 images that were huge
Please crop down your images and keep them to a decent size
-
Thanks for the photos, looks real nice.
I use a lot of Dale resistors, what made you decide to use them? I like them because I don't have to read ring colors and brown rings are very difficult for me to see. Alsi, they are really nice. Are they all 1 watt?
You must not buy into the notion you need the old carbon comp resistors to get that old vibe. I don't either, I like an amp quiet and not drifting.
Looks great.
-
The Dales are 1/2 watts and I got them for those same reasons. I was going to get 1 watts but when reading Doug's BOM he has 1/2watts down, so that's what I went with. I was debating but now I hope I won't regret. My friend says my trannies should be at his store in a week, I am stuck on chassis and cab :BangHead: I'm really digging RJ's chassis and heads. I need to email him to see if he has blanks. Once I'm done with this I'm gonna take a shot at express
-
The Dales are 1/2 watts and I got them for those same reasons. I was going to get 1 watts but when reading Doug's BOM he has 1/2watts down, so that's what I went with. I was debating but now I hope I won't regret. My friend says my trannies should be at his store in a week, I am stuck on chassis and cab :BangHead: I'm really digging RJ's chassis and heads. I need to email him to see if he has blanks. Once I'm done with this I'm gonna take a shot at express
Yea man, an express would be cool just because of Ken Fisher. He was very influential even if you do not like this amps. The statement there is nothing new in tubeland did not apply to him. I think he was a lot like a couple guys here. Tubenit is one of those guys that continues to attempt to improve on designs, of course there are many others here like out new puppy Silvergun.
I say this to get you over here as I need a lot of help :icon_biggrin:
So far as the Vox AC15, I have decided to go completely away from the original look. I am going head and cabinet and not decided the overall look, but I am thinking I will mesh Marshall and Hiwatt. Anyway, just wanted to say again it looks great ever the guitar.
-
That is quite impressive!! Thanks for sharing the photos.
With respect, Tubenit
-
That is quite impressive!! Thanks for sharing the photos.
Double yep! Very nice indeed!
Brad :icon_biggrin:
-
Nice work! I look forward to following along.
-
Thanks guys, I tried my hands at dovetails today on some scrap wood :laugh: something I haven't done since highschool wood shop 30 years ago. I still love woodworking but might leave the cabinet making to Someone else. I tried getting some more things ordered but works been busy and everyone has been sick or getting sick. I will gladly take suggestions, pointers if you see something that might not look right, please let me know. I will take better shots of board. I might go with British style combo, of coarse I'll spend 4 weeks trying to pick a speaker size and type.
-
I just love this stuff.....GREAT pictures!
I can't say I've ever heard an AC15 (that I know of), but because all you guys are making a fuss over it,,,I now feel the need to start looking closer.
I'll keep watching and put it on the list....it's like #11 at this point :wink:
It was pretty cool to watch Chambley post the question, Sluckey point to your build, and then you show up and share the goods.
Once you get done with this, an Express is gonna seem like a Champ build :icon_biggrin:
Please stick around and help Ed.....we hate to see him suffer
Thanks guys, I tried my hands at dovetails today on some scrap wood :laugh:
I picked this up last year and it has come in very handy....I hate buying Chinese crap tools, but this thing is a necessity for easy/inexpensive dovetails
http://www.harborfreight.com/dovetail-machine-34102.html
-
WOW - Das ist wunderbar !
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/EA11C4E1-FBFC-456D-9B8E-C09053E71D65_zpswq8agnux.jpg)
We found the Andy Warhol of amp porn
Really nice photos :grin:
K
-
I just love this stuff.....GREAT pictures!
I can't say I've ever heard an AC15 (that I know of), but because all you guys are making a fuss over it,,,I now feel the need to start looking closer.
I'll keep watching and put it on the list....it's like #11 at this point :wink:
It was pretty cool to watch Chambley post the question, Sluckey point to your build, and then you show up and share the goods.
Once you get done with this, an Express is gonna seem like a Champ build :icon_biggrin:
Please stick around and help Ed.....we hate to see him suffer
Thanks guys, I tried my hands at dovetails today on some scrap wood :laugh:
I picked this up last year and it has come in very handy....I hate buying Chinese crap tools, but this thing is a necessity for easy/inexpensive dovetails
http://www.harborfreight.com/dovetail-machine-34102.html
While I am suffering badly, I can take a break for a moment you Smart one you.
So you fancy yourself a rock fan of up-most proportions, but you fail to follow the history of what came before to to bring about some of your favorites like Toni Basil or The Flock of Seagulls. Not to mention the crowning achievements of your metal friends like Ratt and Winger.
Just think for a moment why would Pete Townsend ever have slashed his speakers to have them move side to side and Distort? Why is there a Vox tone people refer to? I can assure you it is not from what Korg is doing with Vox. Historically, there have been only a handful of amplifiers to reign in this category and this little baby invented the Vox tone and is the only amp to truly have it.
Even the popular AC30 loses some of the Vox sound which is commonly referred to as the Class A sound which we know does not make a particular sound and the truth is Class A is usually very clean. The fact that there is so much untrue folklore around an amp says something in itself. When you hear it after it is built, you will be absolutely amazed how many times you have heard it in recordings. If it were built today exactly the same no one would buy it because Korg makes a particle poard, PCB 12Ax7 Voxish amp that sells cheap.
A great builder and a hellova nice guy Binwitt started this idea of an AC15 in a Marshall chassis and Sluckey took up with quickly. Binwitt is working too much these days, but had the intention of building a few exact clones for his studio. The idea is to make the AC15 run cool and to be able to place it into a combo like a tweed whereas access to insides is easy and to make an amp that was poorly ventilated and difficult to repair much better.
Sluckey's revision he is calling the long version even does more of this and is a great learning strategy for me. To take an already great build such as Lego4040 is doing to even placing everything on the board except one cap can where the B+ is traveling through the cap and choke and then has one connection to the board for everything else. What a potential reduction in manufacturing costs.
I will be using a Celestion Blue and for the first time I plan to make a clone, if you can call it that. I usually travel off the reservation on builds, but the original Vox deserves to run cool and sound great.
No other company protects the Vox brand as much a Korg has and the mention of the word Vox conjures up in the mind of every player a tone. Whether the tone is correct is debatable, but this tone is more specific than any other amp in the minds of players. Tom Petty digs them and who am I to say he is wrong.
I want one because they preform well with open string scales and chicken pickin and all is need is one more amp and I am done. They sound OK if you are playing themostoverratedbamndinhistory's music, the Beatles. Don't really know Why Ritchey says that, but it is funny.
-
Here is a video of the AC-15 handwired if you're not familiar with the tone:
With respect, Tubenit
-
35 dollars for a dovetail jig, I got bits and a router but need the bushings. I will watch the video to see how to use. I've never used one and I hear they are tuff setting up. Thanks for the link
-
So you fancy yourself a rock fan of up-most proportions, but you fail to follow the history of what came before to to bring about some of your favorites like Toni Basil or The Flock of Seagulls. Not to mention the crowning achievements of your metal friends like Ratt and Winger.
Please don't ever mention Ratt OR Winger again.....I can't stop laughing
Let me remind you of where I came from....
When I was 19 I bought this rig (pictured below) and never played any other amp on stage until I was 35.....I thought "I" had the greatest tone ever, because Mesa told me it was, and I was so busy trying to keep up with top 40 radio that I had no real ear for amps.....
Mine was 95 watts in stereo, so I couldn't hear anyone else's amp if I wanted to :icon_biggrin:....I laughed at AC15's....they were adorable :undecided:
Don't pay any attention to us old washed up guitar hacks lego,,,
And don't worry about me Ed,,,,I'm gonna have to do enough explaining when/if I get to the pearly gates. :wink:
I watched about 5 videos, including the one T linked, and I'm starting to get it......I think a big part of getting it would be sittng in front of one
I would be very tempted to just use sluckey's guide and stay the course....pretty involved stuff there, and I would just take advantage of all the hard work he put in.
35 dollars for a dovetail jig, I got bits and a router but need the bushings. I will watch the video to see how to use. I've never used one and I hear they are tuff setting up. Thanks for the link.
It was tough for about an hour and a half of setup and wasting some scrap pieces, but once I got it, I built 2 head cabs and a 1x12 in 2 days.
Below is a pic of how my first head came out....I was pretty impressed with myself. Much easier than I thought and I was kicking myself for waiting so long to try it.
-
looks incredible.
That Gretsch plus a Vox might be good Dave Davies territory.
-
I use one like this. I think I paid $39 for it. I've used it on all the amp cabs that I've built. I don't think it's a very high quality but overall I've been happy with it.
http://www.amazon.com/MLCS-6406-Tails-Blind-Dovetail/dp/B000GG1M2S/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1395925640&sr=1-1&keywords=Half+Blind+Dovetail+Jig
With respect, Tubenit
-
So you fancy yourself a rock fan of up-most proportions, but you fail to follow the history of what came before to to bring about some of your favorites like Toni Basil or The Flock of Seagulls. Not to mention the crowning achievements of your metal friends like Ratt and Winger.
Please don't ever mention Ratt OR Winger again.....I can't stop laughing
Let me remind you of where I came from....
When I was 19 I bought this rig (pictured below) and never played any other amp on stage until I was 35.....I thought "I" had the greatest tone ever, because Mesa told me it was, and I was so busy trying to keep up with top 40 radio that I had no real ear for amps.....
Mine was 95 watts in stereo, so I couldn't hear anyone else's amp if I wanted to :icon_biggrin:....I laughed at AC15's....they were adorable :undecided:
Don't pay any attention to us old washed up guitar hacks lego,,,
And don't worry about me Ed,,,,I'm gonna have to do enough explaining when/if I get to the pearly gates. :wink:
I watched about 5 videos, including the one T linked, and I'm starting to get it......I think a big part of getting it would be sittng in front of one
I would be very tempted to just use sluckey's guide and stay the course....pretty involved stuff there, and I would just take advantage of all the hard work he put in.
35 dollars for a dovetail jig, I got bits and a router but need the bushings. I will watch the video to see how to use. I've never used one and I hear they are tuff setting up. Thanks for the link.
It was tough for about an hour and a half of setup and wasting some scrap pieces, but once I got it, I built 2 head cabs and a 1x12 in 2 days.
Below is a pic of how my first head came out....I was pretty impressed with myself. Much easier than I thought and I was kicking myself for waiting so long to try it.
Oh, I know you get it. 95 watts stereo and you can still hear?
I don't wat to hijack this thread anymore, but you cannot find an original 60 AC15 on youtube except for a 2 12 version. The Handwired series is a tad brighter and a little more harsh.
-
35 dollars for a dovetail jig, I got bits and a router but need the bushings. I will watch the video to see how to use. I've never used one and I hear they are tuff setting up. Thanks for the link
Lookin' good Lionel.
And you don't want to know what I paid for my table saw box joint jig (INCRA)
-
I may stop at my lumber yard and see what they have on stock. Ill find a head plan and have them ri boards to width and length. I dont trust my old saw for fine carpentry.
-
Here is a link to the best original I can find. Good demo, dudes are German and look very happy. It is a 2, 12
-
I don't wat to hijack this thread anymore, but you cannot find an original 60 AC15 on youtube except for a 2 12 version. The Handwired series is a tad brighter and a little more harsh.
J Mascis of Dinosaur Jr. recorded all his leads with a 58 tele into a '59 AC15 for their last album 'i bet on sky', the album before, it was the tele and a 60's Vox Super Berkeley. Rhythm guitar was a LP Jr and a tweed deluxe.
-
I am about to order some parts< want to keep the resistors to the brown dales look and the closest I can get to a 220k is 221k at 1% tolerence. Is that close enough, I iknow in most cases it is when Im building pedals but this is a amp and it s 1/2 watt :help:
-
the closest I can get to a 220k is 221k at 1% tolerence. Is that close enough.
absolutely Yes.
-
Finally ordered my last board components, I hate forgeting and having to pay shipping costs again :cussing:
-
I am about to order some parts< want to keep the resistors to the brown dales look and the closest I can get to a 220k is 221k at 1% tolerence. Is that close enough, I iknow in most cases it is when Im building pedals but this is a amp and it s 1/2 watt :help:
Really 20% is close enough and the old amps with Carbon Comp resistors usually drift high with heat and use. Sometimes it creates a tone like no other that is very pleasing. Then again the things are a tad noisy.
Look at any old fender schematic and it states 20% which seems like a lot, but close enough fro rock and roll.
Seriously, I would use the RN Dales if I had enough, but I am using BC Vishay which I have found to be very quiet. They are 5%. Building an old Vox I promise if your tolerances are within 5% it will be tighter than when a 1960 AC15 was initially built.
-
My transformers are ordered and on the way, I am using the Hammonds from SLuckeys BOM. My next order this weekend is chassis, pots and tube sockets. Anyone have a preference to chassis with extended lips or not? If I go with a Marshall style cab then I believe I will need lips, Also sockets I believe are all pins, Any preferences out there? Those PEC pots are$$$$$ so Ill stick with ALphas
-
My transformers are ordered and on the way, I am using the Hammonds from SLuckeys BOM. My next order this weekend is chassis, pots and tube sockets. Anyone have a preference to chassis with extended lips or not? If I go with a Marshall style cab then I believe I will need lips, Also sockets I believe are all pins, Any preferences out there? Those PEC pots are$$$$$ so Ill stick with ALphas
If your plans are to use a switch for the tremolo instead of a 3MRA pot with a series 100k, then Alpha pots should be fine. I have had much bad luck with them and will not use them anymore, but that is just me. I do not like the audio pots either as all the volume is quick. I am snakebit with them as they say. I prefer in order, PEC, Bourns, and CTS. Also, Steve at http://www.apexjr.com/ has some great prices on NOS pots and carling swithces. He has a lot of things not on his website and all is that great stuff made years ago and also nice Teflon wire.
I usually get stock items as you can never know what he has. Sort of surplus. I restore old radios and he has been very beneficial. If it is not on his site email or call. Very helpful guy and just getting a few items saves enough where additional shipping is not a concern.
I am using a lip chassis so I can put it into a Marshall headbox.
-
I am using a 3ma for the tremolo and will take note of the pots and will buy the ones preferred
-
So instead of using A pots your using B? Thanks for the tips, lip cassis it is
-
So instead of using A pots your using B?
Huh? Are you talking about the pot taper?
I will be using all Alpha pots with audio taper except the CTS 3M-RA speed pot. I like Alpha pots and have never had a problem with them. They have a nice feel too.
I think Ed turned against Alpha when he discovered a dual ganged 250K pot was not perfect. The resistance of the two pots did not track perfectly.
I prefer a chassis with the lips turned inward rather than sticking out on the ends.
-
So instead of using A pots your using B?
Huh? Are you talking about the pot taper?
I will be using all Alpha pots with audio taper except the CTS 3M-RA speed pot. I like Alpha pots and have never had a problem with them. They have a nice feel too.
I think Ed turned against Alpha when he discovered a dual ganged 250K pot was not perfect. The resistance of the two pots did not track perfectly.
I prefer a chassis with the lips turned inward rather than sticking out on the ends.
Not the tracking of the pots. I really did have problems one after the other with some of them. Just checked and it was 6 I replaced due to failures, but I am sure it is me. Dead spots in the carbon track. As I said, loads are sold and many amp builders use them with great success. Since I have never had a CTS (and have some in amps that are over 50 years old) or Bourns pot cause me problems I use them. It is true the tracking of the pots are sometimes wildly off, but others are as well. That is the reason I use PEC for Master Volumes as they track much better. If I have a 3mRA for Tremolo I use all CTS because they are all the same and my punch holes for them are the same. Alpha punch holes are smaller. Most Boutique builders use Alpha. Just preference. Fender uses them in their new amps and I assume most others do as well.
The last chassis(s) I made I turned under because the outer lip can scratch the crap out of you arm so I usually file off the corners. After doing this I learned the benefit of a outer fold/lip is they sit on an ampstand and are visually more open and that is why the next batch I make will have outer fold/lip.
Follow Sluckeys advise, he knows much better than me. I am just stating my preferences and why I have them.
-
Alpha punch holes are smaller.
Not if you buy the ones with a 3/8" bushing. I don't like those small bushing Alphas that Doug sells.
-
Hey lego, did you find a replacement for the Mallory 150 0.01µF cap that doesn't fit neatly on the board? If so, which brand? Xicon?
-
Alpha punch holes are smaller.
Not if you buy the ones with a 3/8" bushing. I don't like those small bushing Alphas that Doug sells.
Yep, AES has them if someone is reading this and wondering. A lot of other places do as well, but I like AES.
Antique Electric Supply or tubesandmore.com. Same people and also same as CE distribution I believe if you buy a lot for distribution.
-
Hey lego, did you find a replacement for the Mallory 150 0.01µF cap that doesn't fit neatly on the board? If so, which brand? Xicon?
Where? I missed this comment. Where does it not fit? Did lego404 make this comment here? Inquiring minds want to know.
-
It's the cap that connects to V5-1. The new M150 is just slightly longer than the old yellers. Xicon should fit nicely.
-
It's the cap that connects to V5-1. The new M150 is just slightly longer than the old yellers. Xicon should fit nicely.
Thank you, I see it. I had planned to raise it and just use a "t" bend.
I hate to ask you as you have been so good in sharing your stuff with me, but how you coming with the long version? :icon_biggrin:
Also, I have not received and materials yet, I can start with the cabinet if you are close. I still have to get a choke and a OT. Are you planning to use Hammond OT? I have always been pleased with Hammond OT's.
I am also using ceramic instead of silver mica. The only thing I am changing is the resistors as I cannot hear any additional warmth or distortion from carbon comps. Maybe a job for the Mythbusters. :think1:
What do you think about elevating the heaters since the Hammond PT has a CT on the heaters? It should be easy.
I am going to use the standup version of the Mercury Toneclone. I plan to start a new topic to see how many are interested in building this to see if we have enough interest to get a discount an order from Mercury. I get a fairly decent price break from them, but not like the some of the heavier users we have on the forum I am sure.
HBP made mention of this. I am sure he know someone that gets much better pricing from Mercury. All the amp shops around here use Heyboer and a lot are starting to use Classistone so I cant get any of them to get a discounted one. Really, it doesn't matter that much, I am not really doing this to save money, but it is always nice.
-
I hate to ask you as you have been so good in sharing your stuff with me, but how you coming with the long version?
I'm probably through tweaking the board layout. The whole package still needs a couple of rainy days. The board will be 13.75" x 3.125".
Are you planning to use Hammond OT?
Yes. But Hammond has had a huge price increase since I last bought an OT. The 1650F will now cost $104! In fact, all Hammond iron that I spec'd will cost $203!. The ClassicTone will cost $170. I don't even want to know what MM wants for their iron.
So, my Matchless Lightning will become a donor. Never did bond with that amp! :icon_biggrin:
What do you think about elevating the heaters since the Hammond PT has a CT on the heaters? It should be easy.
I'm not planning on it.
The only changes I am considering is a speed pot rather than a switch, a front panel depth pot rather than the internal depth preset, and a 5V rectifier rather than the EZ81. Possibly a 6 position rotary switch, but that's an easy mod so I'll start with the simple on/off brilliance switch.
All my parts have been ordered. I using the 20 x 6.5 x 2.5 inward lip chassis from Watts.
-
Sluckey I got this http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=1429-6103virtualkey21980000virtualkey1429-6103 (http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=1429-6103virtualkey21980000virtualkey1429-6103)
for the .01 uf. Im ordering more of my parts as I write and will post them. A mock of the chassis to start laying out components
EL34 edit
Please crop your images down a to normal size
-
:dontknow: What switch was used for the Brilliant switch?
-
I'm just gonna use a mini toggle. I like the cardboard idea. If you're gonna put the cap board inside the chassis, you may consider butting the two boards end to end.
-
:sad2: Thats why when your single board came out I almost died, I wanted to that. I will butt those two together anyway. I have order going know at turretboard.com $150 dollars i and i didnt even get to tubes. Any special size or rating? 250v and higher I bet
-
The cardboard trick I learned over at BYOC
-
Any special size or rating? 250v and higher I bet
You mean for the brilliance switch? There's no dc voltage on it and the only ac voltage is a small guitar signal. Any rating you find for a toggle switch will be fine. If you should find a cheap two position rotary switch let us know.
-
Lots just ordered from Turretboard. $195 worth. I ordered the 20x6.5x2.5 chassis+shielding cover. Ceramic sockets, switchcraft L12A jacks, Carling switches, fuse holder & fuses, dial indicator lamp/bulbs and jewels, nuts/kep nuts. CTS pots
-
Very nice planning. The cap board will work well, but I do like the idea of getting the caps on the board. If you have been building pedals a while, I bet you have enough parts laying around to build one without ordering anything.
Amp building is the same. Any part I have on hand I consider it costs me nothing. :laugh:
Like this build, I have everything, even an Output Transformer, but I am not using it. I gonna buy me a Mercury. :l2:
I am very interested in how the Hammond Iron works. I have 2 builds with old hammond iron and really like them. You guys will get finished way before me and I have no reason to order the OT yet. I have some nice OT's I pulled form a few Baldwin organs that will run nicely if i get that close.
The rotary switches are hard to come by. I have one, but I have a vox amp and I am keeping it for the original. I saw one on EBAY, but they sell for way more than a mini toggle and what is the difference really?
Love the cardboard. You bring some good work to us. Thanks for that.
-
Tubes ordered from AES as well as few different size rubber Grommets tube selection goes like this:
JJ TUBES: EZ81 for Rectifier, ECC82 for the 12AU7,(3) matched ECC83-S for the 12AX7's, EF806-S for the EF86( low micro phonics)and a matched pair of EL844( these are lower output 84 and break up earlier with same creamy distortion) I also got a regular matched pair of JJ EL84(forgot to take out of cart) oops. I'll use them for my next build
-
Ed did you see the T bend on the .01uf in the pic? It's in lower portion just left of the big red chicklet. Shoot Hammond went up? I don't know what my source is paying, classictone is cheaper now :think1: I'll keep that in mind for wreck build. MM wants your first born, one kidney and liver. The OT From MM is more then All the Hammonds together
-
Ed did you see the T bend on the .01uf in the pic? It's in lower portion just left of the big red chicklet. Shoot Hammond went up? I don't know what my source is paying, classictone is cheaper now :think1: I'll keep that in mind for wreck build. MM wants your first born, one kidney and liver. The OT From MM is more then All the Hammonds together
I did see how you fit the cap. It looks just fine to me. Actually, your work is much cleaner and neater than mine. With you and Sluckey working on this, I am going to have to step it up. Normally I just want it to work and be quiet.
Weber has the Mercury iron for $177 for the OT I think. With Mercury, the more you buy the cheaper they sell it. I am going to email Patrick and get a price. I am sort of reluctant at this point as I have a LOT of OT's suitable for well over 15 watts with primaries from 8K to 10K. I could try 10 or so to check, but like I mentioned Hammond Iron is really good. Not cheap.
I have had a lot more people who have built them tell me to use the Mercury, but I think it is because there is no risk. Mercury makes good stuff.
The classictone is a 6k primary and Vox did use a 6k3, but did not stay with that winding. I use Classistone Power Tranny's and have one OT I had in a sort of Tweed Deluxe, but modified cap values and a 6G3 tonestack. It has a 12 inch Celestion Blue. I tried a few others and kept the Clasictone. It sounds good to my ears.
I got an order in of some parts and board material, but I am going to make the headbox and a 1, 12 Cabinet. I will use tolex as I think this build will be a very nice to carry around and wood finishes look great, but do not travel well. Since we are essentially building a Vox I am going to use something different and somehow get the diamond pattern. I use mostly Fender Rough Blond Tolex. These decisions are tough as it is a lot of work and I want it to be special in some way. It will be I believe.
The cost of material and parts add up quick, but if you want a 60's Vox it may cost you a little more I believe. You are going to have a really nice amp with a wicked cool Tremolo. I just hope I can make decent time on my version.
-
I will pass on my own cabinet building, I ordered the chassis with the lips so I can go Marshall style cab and have it dressed up in Vox style. Ill probably have Mojo do it unless I came across something different on the net. Im reading some tranny chat over at ampgarage now. talk about rocking class electronic trannies and Pacifics. I myself hope my amp fires up, not literally :l2:
-
Anyone use Edcor Trannies? Very resonable and Ive read really nice reviews.https://edcorusa.com/
-
:sad2: Now that I have rest of parts coming in to finish amp, I am at the mercy of putting notes together again for checking volts and the bias. I know this is a cathode bias so it does it itself basically as long as I built it correctly. I spent months researching a creating a manual on this subject for the Blackface Princeton Reverb I was going to build but I went way of the path. Can some one point me in a direction of source for checking this amp? I drew out the pinout for the EL84 so I have a visual, Am I using this as a triode or pentode push pull? can i still put a 1ohm from cathode to ground to measure ma? I seen the other thread hear about the el34 biasing..OH MY ACHING head.
Muchas Gracious
-
:sad2: Now that I have rest of parts coming in to finish amp, I am at the mercy of putting notes together again for checking volts and the bias. I know this is a cathode bias so it does it itself basically as long as I built it correctly. I spent months researching a creating a manual on this subject for the Blackface Princeton Reverb I was going to build but I went way of the path. Can some one point me in a direction of source for checking this amp? I drew out the pinout for the EL84 so I have a visual, Am I using this as a triode or pentode push pull? can i still put a 1ohm from cathode to ground to measure ma? I seen the other thread hear about the el34 biasing..OH MY ACHING head.
Muchas Gracious
You will be using the pentode push pull. In triode mode you would not have but about half the wattage. Lots of people actually make it switchable. The triode pentode switch. In triode is great for hifi, but does make a nice half watt switch.
Cathode bias is very simple and there is no need for the 1 watt resistor.
The fixed bias EL34 is not as difficult as reading it seems. Do it once and you will completely understand how and why.
Then again, I usually bias to sound, but I have ruined a few EL34's doing this. :icon_biggrin:
On the Edcor, I have worked on a low power twin a friend has and it is built with Edcor trannys. The amp sounds killer. Very much tweed and he plays a lot of the Stones music and it sounds right to me.
Here is something I had, but let someone else confirm
1. Connect the black meter lead to chassis and leave it there. Then connect the red lead directly cathode of the output tube. This will be the cathode voltage.
2. Divide this voltage by the value of the cathode resistor. This gives you the amount of current being drawn by both power tubes in milliamps. Write this value down.
3. Measure the voltage on the plates of the power tubes to ground. Write this down.
4. Now, subtract the voltage from the cathode resistor in step 1 from the voltage measured on the plates. Write this value down. Take this value, and multiply it by the current (milliamps) from step 2. This will give you the dissipated power (in watts) of both power tubes. Write this figure down.
5. Take the figure from step 4 and divide by 2. Write this figure down. This is the power dissipation (in watts) of each tube. For 6V6s, if it is over 12 watts, then you need to install a higher value cathode resistor. If it's 10.5 watts or less, you need to install a lower value cathode resistor.
6. After installing the new cathode resistor, do ALL of the steps again to see what you now have. You may have to repeat this process several times to get it dialed in, but it is worth it, and your ears will thank you.
-
Thanks Ed, for step 1 you would measure volts before resistor then after and get your drop from there. Not put leads in front and back of resistor( that would be where u were using a 1ohm resistor say in a fender). If so, got it. The rest of the steps I can follow but will surely ask if stuck. I read somewhere on net when boasting a cathode biased amp the guy used a appropriate potentiometer instead of cathode resistor. When he was happy with the way amp was preforming he shut it down and measured reading on that pot and put a cathode resistor of that resistance. My question would be why not just use a pot there instead? Find sweet spot, put some locktite on it when done and forget about it. If you change tubes then you can tweet again. BTW , UPS screws up my part package and sent it to PA when it was on my normal truck yeaterday :cussing: I might Rethink the way I have leads thru turrets and do the mil spec way after reading a thread here about to many leads thu turrets
-
Here's Uncle doug a explanation of push-pull biasing
-
for step 1 you would measure volts before resistor then after and get your drop from there.
You don't have to make two measurements because one end of the cathode resistor is connected to chassis ground. Just connect the black meter lead to chassis and leave it there. Then connect the red lead directly to pin 3 (cathode) of the output tube. This will be the cathode voltage and it's the same as measuring across the cathode resistor.
My question would be why not just use a pot there instead?
A 10W resistor only cost a dollar. A 10W pot would cost 20 or 100 times that!
-
Thanks Ed, for step 1 you would measure volts before resistor then after and get your drop from there. Not put leads in front and back of resistor( that would be where u were using a 1ohm resistor say in a fender). If so, got it. The rest of the steps I can follow but will surely ask if stuck. I read somewhere on net when boasting a cathode biased amp the guy used a appropriate potentiometer instead of cathode resistor. When he was happy with the way amp was preforming he shut it down and measured reading on that pot and put a cathode resistor of that resistance. My question would be why not just use a pot there instead? Find sweet spot, put some locktite on it when done and forget about it. If you change tubes then you can tweet again. BTW , UPS screws up my part package and sent it to PA when it was on my normal truck yeaterday :cussing: I might Rethink the way I have leads thru turrets and do the mil spec way after reading a thread here about to many leads thu turrets
Sluckey beat me to it, so yea, what he said. I will revise my instruction sheet as this is much clearer.
Anyway, I have done this only to find the suggested resistor to be very close. I also am a tube roller and only have 2 cathode bias amps. One I am going to disassemble this weekend as it had the PT on it I plan to use. It is a TMB 18 watt Marshall preamp with cathode bias EL34,s it only distorts. Cannot get much clean at all.
The learning has great value and it is interesting to see how much the tube is dissipating. Remember, this is all at idle and really does not have much to do when playing, especially the amp I am planning to build. I usually run smaller watt amps hard keeping the amp volume right at the sweet spot. Too hard and they usually get a tad too over-driven and muddy. I do however have an amp room, or closet. Whatever you want to call it and it is almost soundproof. I control volume by how far I open the door. :icon_biggrin:
There is only my wife and dogs at my house and neither care as they hear it every day. I guess I am lucky as many wives do not like loud guitar. Mine doesn't either, but she lives with it and I live with Dance Moms and a million bottles and brushes in the bathroom. :l2: I believe after 40 in men a new gene appears and I call it the apathetic gene.
You know the difference between ignorance and apathy?
I don't know and I don't care. :laugh: I have had waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy to much coffee. I will quit now.
-
for step 1 you would measure volts before resistor then after and get your drop from there.
You don't have to make two measurements because one end of the cathode resistor is connected to chassis ground. Just connect the black meter lead to chassis and leave it there. Then connect the red lead directly to pin 3 (cathode) of the output tube. This will be the cathode voltage and it's the same as measuring across the cathode resistor.
Since you wrote this I assume the resistance from the chassis is of no concern since the resistor is grounded to the chassis anyway. Correct?
I get confused easily. What is the difference between measuring across the resistor and measuring from the cathode pin to chassis ground? Nothing right since they are both connected to the resistor. Why not just measure across the resistor?
You are just offering another way to do the same thing and clarifying, right?
-
You are just offering another way to do the same thing and clarifying, right?
Correct. It's all the same. I like putting the meter probe directly on the cathode at the tube socket because......................
the very next thing I will do is measure the plate voltage. Only a half inch move. :icon_biggrin:
-
You are just offering another way to do the same thing and clarifying, right?
Correct. It's all the same. I like putting the meter probe directly on the cathode at the tube socket because......................
the very next thing I will do is measure the plate voltage. Only a half inch move. :icon_biggrin:
Got ya. Keeps from fiddling around in an open chassis. :icon_biggrin:
Also, if you use one resistor per tube you can have dual bias? :l2:
Matchless does this. If you do want to individually bias the output tubes you will want to double the resistance and halve the capacitance to keep the same frequency response. In this case it would be for EL84 a 260ohm/100uf.
I have done this before and did not notice any difference and have wondered why Matchless does it. They also use extremely high wattage resistors, but I guess if you are shelling out the big bucks you deserve extra parts that are very durable.
Anyone else ever found a noticeable difference in splitting up the cathodes of power tubes?
-
:worthy1: :worthy1: :worthy1: Thanks Guys, What I like about Uncle Doug's videos is that they're understandable and I feel like I'm actually sitting down with someone getting learned. I've watched his other vids and really appreciate his time and effort
-
Anyone else ever found a noticeable difference in splitting up the cathodes of power tubes?
The only advantage I can think of is you don't have to ASSUME the total current splits equally thru the tubes. You will know exactly how the current splits and if it ain't matched to your specs, then start rolling tubes.
-
Like this?
that's were you would make the changes from original. Where the one cap/ resistor would go I would piggyback and reuse those two turrets
-
Like this?
Yes. Is it worth it? :think1:
-
Done then
-
:worthy1: :worthy1: :worthy1: Thanks Guys, What I like about Uncle Doug's videos is that they're understandable and I feel like I'm actually sitting down with someone getting learned. I've watched his other vids and really appreciate his time and effort
I clicked over and watched the videos. The first one on SE amps he really gets a lot of valuable information across in a very understandable way. That coupled with the second video pretty much wraps up biasing of power tubes. Good stuff. A must watch for anyone who wants to understand how to maintain and change tubes in their own amp. Really, everyone who owns a few amps should learn this.
-
FYI, my caps came in and they'll fit nicely. Those Xicon are small, know I have to order (2)270R and (2)100uf/100v for separating the bias
-
If you cant get 260 ohm, I, thinking I should get 270 and 250 and test them both or would one be safer then the other. I understand the 250 will let tubes run hotter and vise versa. Its one thing when your tweaking a pedal and another with 600+volts
-
There is an alternative. Look at the pics of my Lightning then look at the layout at the bottom of the page.
http://home.comcast.net/~seluckey/amps/lightning/matchless.htm
-
:think1: So you took the plate voltage and put it in front off the choke and put that to the OT. Then you took the screens after the choke and sent that to the plates on the power tubes. Not sure if I'm missing anything else but what does that exactly do? I'm interested in understanding this other way of doing this
-
We're talking about cathodes. Look again.
-
Ah, the 1ohms of the cathodes.
-
It looks as if Sluckey's Lighting just has a common cathode resistor and bypass. The 2 to the left look like screen as in the build it looks as it they are not grounded, but share the b+. I cannot see how he has separated them if they are.
Look closely at the end of the the sentence where he has the smiley.
He answered the question is it worth it with this.
Yes meaning you understand it.
Is it worth it? :think1:
Watch the smiley. It is saying it is an idea which seems good at first. Then after consideration is shakes its head no.
I do not plan to separate them. I just mentioned it as another way. I can tell you this, you can get a precise match and bias this way and you can drive yourself crazy doing it.
I have 2 questions. Is there a way to check the bias of individual tubes in the amp if the cathodes have a common resistor?
and is there any reason to not lower the capacitance to increase the frequency of a power tube like with a preamp tube?
-
Ed, the picture I drew is exactly that. it will allow you to test each tube separately, that is why I was going to use the two turrets for original set up, each turret will have its own cap/res piggy backed and loose the jumper on the positive side turrets
-
I have 2 questions. Is there a way to check the bias of individual tubes in the amp if the cathodes have a common resistor?
Look at the Lightning again. Look at the board layout if you don't see it on the schematic.
and is there any reason to not lower the capacitance to increase the frequency of a power tube like with a preamp tube?
Lowering the value of the cathode bypass cap will not increase the frequency. A lower value will DECREASE the bass response. That may make you think the amp is brighter but it's not. It's simply less bassy.
-
I did not see the link to the schematic. Yes, I easily see the 1 ohm resistors on the schematic. I do not see a drawn layout, only photos. I cannot make it out well, but it looks like they are between the 130ohm and cap the 1k5. In the photo I cannot see pin 3 of either power tube.
Also, your screen resistors are not 5 watt and your cathode resistor is not 15 watt. Did you think the matchless values were overkill? :icon_biggrin:
I assume it was the most convenient way of doing it an still keep them on the board and keeping a good alignment with grid for a neater lead dress. Am I correct?
My eyesight is not what it used to be and hunting down 5 stripe resistors is not easy. :BangHead:
Let me re-phrase. Lowering the value will change the frequency as will raising. I just never read about people tweaking tone here and wondered why. Looking at matchless amps it seem they use a higher capacitance as shown here in the lighting.
-
Yes, I easily see the 1 ohm resistors on the schematic. I do not see a drawn layout, only photos.
If you saw a schematic you should be able to see the layout, unless you have forgotten how to do the scroll! The 1Ω resistors are in plain sight on the layout. They are even clearly visible in the photos, if you know where to look.
Also, your screen resistors are not 5 watt and your cathode resistor is not 15 watt. Did you think the matchless values were overkill?
Absolutely! That 130Ω cathode resistor has 7.5V across it. That's less than 1/2 watt!
-
Sluckey I will keep it as is except for adding the 2 1ohms and test ports since that will let me test both valves. Less work
-
Yes, I easily see the 1 ohm resistors on the schematic. I do not see a drawn layout, only photos.
If you saw a schematic you should be able to see the layout, unless you have forgotten how to do the scroll! The 1Ω resistors are in plain sight on the layout. They are even clearly visible in the photos, if you know where to look.
Also, your screen resistors are not 5 watt and your cathode resistor is not 15 watt. Did you think the matchless values were overkill?
Absolutely! That 130Ω cathode resistor has 7.5V across it. That's less than 1/2 watt!
I have forgotten how to scroll. :BangHead:
I can easily see them on the layout and the tip jacks. I will shut up about this now, but I will remember it. :icon_biggrin:
In another note, I was going through some old boxes here at work and ran across some chassis mount 9 pin and 8 pin ceramic tube sockets and other boxes of electrical parts from the early 60's. All US made. I scrounge old parts a lot, but it was surprising to find such nice new parts I am sure we will never see again.
However, I have some kewl tube sockets I will be using for a while. I was sad for a moment, but everything changes.
Anyway, on my progress for the build. I have decided to make a head box and a 1, 12 cabinet to hold a Celestion Blue. I really like white/blond tolex with Oxblood, so I ordered the Tolex, Oxblood grill cloth, the kind without the gold stripe. Like the early 60 Fender Bassman/Showman amps (even added some ampeg blue grill cloth to finish up my last cabinet). I am going with short and squatty with the head being the exact width as the cabinet. 24 inches wide with a 14 inch tall cabinet and 11 inch deep. I have built one this size before with 3/4 pine with a half closed back and the size makes for a real nice sounding cabinet if you are not wanting modern metal. It helps to pad each side, but that is all since the pine makes for a nice resonance. I prefer Birch in 3/8 for the baffle. I think if make a faceplate to match the grill cloth and use cream fender knobs it may look 60's. I have the picture in my mind, now if I can pull it off. I decided to break all the rules and use Marshall style Head and Cab with Fender colors for a Vox amp.
Now I have everything but the Output Transformer. Tone Junkie Bill is correct. I have a very bad case of tube fever, but I am having a blast. Be easy on me you Alabama Wild Man. "Unless you forgot how to scroll" :sad2: :l2:
-
You build chassis and cabs, curses. I just don't have time and way to rusty in my wood working skills. I did manage to finish populating board before I left shop. (http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/29E64109-A249-4D3E-A42B-B82CF0738FD0_zpsncfgexbk.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/29E64109-A249-4D3E-A42B-B82CF0738FD0_zpsncfgexbk.jpg.html)(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/B4E4EDA8-C695-494A-988A-2D402F7FBD86_zpsyx8g8lwg.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/B4E4EDA8-C695-494A-988A-2D402F7FBD86_zpsyx8g8lwg.jpg.html) I changed the 3 watt 100ohm to 5 watters and here is a picture of the small .003,.01&.002 red chicklet caps. They fit really nice, tomorrow I hope to get the iron hot
-
Looking good my man. Yes, I must say my metal skills are superior to wood. I can make a cab, but I really should let someone else do it. I have only made one that was good enough to wood finish and it was a easy tweed deluxe style. They are not that great, but they are strong and I have a good buddy who does car interiors that puts on the tolex for me. When he is done, they look great.
I am finishing up a complete build while I am doing this one and I also have another one I am working on as well. When I get it done I will post final photos. It is a KT88 build and I used red tolex.
-
... I changed the 3 watt 100ohm to 5 watters ...
Why make that change?
The EL84 data sheet (http://www.mif.pg.gda.pl/homepages/frank/sheets/129/e/EL84.pdf) says the screen is rated for 2w maximum. If you wind up with voltages similar to the 1960 AC-15 (http://el34world.com/charts/Schematics/files/Vox/Vox_ac151960.pdf), you'll have something like 310-320v on your screen. 2w / 310v = ~6.5mA.
Let's assume you used a 5w resistor because you didn't want it warm while dissipating 2.5w (i.e., derating). Current = √(Power/Resistance) = √(2.5w/100Ω) = ~158mA. Verify by finding voltage drop for that current across 100Ω: 0.158A * 100Ω = 15.8v, and 15.8v * 0.158A = ~2.5w.
So the resistor will drop 15.8v, reducing screen voltage to 310v - 15.8v = 294.2v, and Screen Dissipation = 294.2v * 0.158A = 46.5w.
What does that mean? The screen resistor's function is to protect the tube's screen. It does that by dropping voltage as screen current increases, because increased screen current would imply more screen dissipation. The drop in voltage counteracts the rise of screen dissipation directly in the form Volts*Amps, and also indirectly because a drop of screen voltage reduces plate (and screen) current.
Another way the screen resistor could protect the screen is by being rated such that excessive screen current (due to some fault)burns open the screen resistor. Once this happens, screen voltage drops to zero and the tube passes almost no current, which saves the tube. The burned resistor also points you to the section of the amp that malfunctioned.
If you start with the screen current implied by the screen dissipation rating and the known screen voltage (which we found to be ~6.5mA above), you can calculate the dissipation of the screen resistor. 6.5mA2 * 100Ω = ~4.2mW. So even a 1/4w resistor is over-rated enough that it might not prevent screen damage.
The situation is different with larger resistances; if you use the ohm's law and the equation for power, you'll find larger resistance dissipates more power when carrying a given current.
Also of this competes with the fact that amp designers often keep the screen resistance low (or zero) to minimize its impact on maximum possible power output.
-
There is no emoticon here for a scanners head explosion but it happened. I had to read your response a few times and go back to BYOC and find my discussion with Sluckey. Thank you for bringing that mistake to my attention, I reread it and realized he made the 3w over the 5watt suggestion and I had it backward. I will undo that tomorrow. Hopefully I can get under board wiring and flying leads ready so I can solder it up.
-
... I reread it and realized he made the 3w over the 5watt suggestion and I had it backward. I will undo that tomorrow. ...
It's not necessarily something you have to undo...
Since even a 1/4w or 1/8w might be too big to act as a fuse to protect the screen, I wanted to get you thinking about why we choose certain parrts for certain applications.
The 5w Dales certainly look cool (so do the lower-watt versions), but they're more expense than is necessary in this spot, in this amp. My thought is you could think about this in future builds and evaluate which part is the best for the role it plays, rather than buying the most expensive parts and thinking that assures the best performance.
-
:worthy1: thanks. I will have to write those equations done and chew on them for a while to grasp it more. When I was in the apprenticeship we had to pass both the local and international electrical test. In the field you don't use any of that, we don't design the equipment. I'm licensed for operating and repairing, a part acts up I evaluate, test and if it needs replacing I rip it out and put new in. I have HVAC control boards that go every now and then and cost close to $500 bucks a pop, usually it's the dale resistor after the SS rectifier that allows us to run on 24v DC. I usually change the cap and resistor on board and change step down transformer from 120/24v@40ma to a 70ma and that solves the problem
-
Finally had a rainy day. Here's the long board...
EDIT... big pic removed.
-
How :cussing: you get that done so fast? It's gorgeous and you'll sure have it done before the rest of us. I don't have the long board layout in front of me but I only see 1 100ohm 3 watt resistor? I will look at it now
-
Man Sluckey, that's beautiful work, the layout and the soldering. Even have the output tubes K R up in the air for air flow around it to keep it cool.
Brad :icon_biggrin:
-
You threw in one Carbon Comp for some extra Mojo I see :worthy1:
-
I cannot find the single board layout you posted, am I blind? Could you repost please
-
but I only see 1 100ohm 3 watt resistor?
There are two. You just can't see one because the big white resistor is sitting high off the board and is blocking the view from this angle.
You threw in one Carbon Comp for some extra Mojo I see
Not mojo. Nobody had a 560K metal film. :cussing:
I cannot find the single board layout you posted, am I blind? Could you repost please
I haven't posted a layout yet. But I did post a quick screenshot of Visio to show where the long board was headed. It's had several minor changes since then. See Reply #45 in this thread... http://el34world.com/Forum/index.php?topic=16851.0
-
Thanks sluckey, but you still only have 1 100ohm :dontknow:
-
Thanks sluckey, but you still only have 1 100ohm :dontknow:
You only SEE one. I promise there are two. How's this angle?
EDIT... big pic removed.
-
Sluckey, killer work as usual. I really kine the long version. I guess you had time to finish up the visio files as well? Got a link to the longboard version? :icon_biggrin:
I would really appreciate it.
I went north to the mountains and spending tonight cutting wood. Should be able to glue up the head and speaker box tomorrow and I will be ready to start my board.
It looks like some nice work coming out on these. I will be proud to show my finished cabs, but my board is probably not going to look as nice as you guys. I am going to try. I do have some red board material tho. :laugh:
The forum has new colors and stuff.
-
Got a link to the longboard version?
It's scattered right now. I'll pull everything into one file and post a link very soon.
-
Thank you. Got a little tube fever yourself! :laugh:
I appreciate you work. :thumbsup:
-
Yeah that's incredible work. Soldering technique is off the hook, something I plan on finishing this week. Thanks for everything. I noticed forum got spruced up :worthy1:
-
Finally had a rainy day. Here's the long board...
Fortunately (for us) you had a rainy day. :icon_biggrin:
Your populated board is a real pleasure for the eyes, very neat, awesomest ! :worthy1:
P.S. : BTW have you forgotten to solder 2 silver mica + 1 poly caps ?
-
P.S. : BTW have you forgotten to solder 2 silver mica + 1 poly caps ?
I was wondering when someone would catch that! There are two 180K resistors that go parallel with the silver micas. They should arrive in a couple days.
-
:icon_biggrin:
-
Another rainy day. Today I ravaged the Lightning! It's a donor for this amp.
EDIT... big pic removed.
-
I got tons of pedal parts but not amp parts. I wish I had amp parts like that
-
The long board version is now posted on my website.
-
The long board version is now posted on my website.
Hmm, I guess this is still the old one : http://home.comcast.net/~seluckey/amps/misc/Vox_AC-15.pdf (http://home.comcast.net/~seluckey/amps/misc/Vox_AC-15.pdf)
I can't find the long board version.
-
It's on the main page of my website. See pic...
EDIT... big pic removed.
-
:happy1: If I did not have cap board soldered already I would strip mine down and do this. What little time I had on the net I did some re-investigating on the 5E9_-A and 5G9. I read on tpdri that tubeswell is quite knowledgeable on this amp. Im also going to Buffalo in a week and Hammond is there, I wonder if I can get in for a tour :angel get some swag maybe a set of trannies for another project
-
:think1: Your salvaging had me thinking Sluckey, I have a 5F1+ from Allen Amps that I built a few years ago. I can totally rip board out and build a vibrochamp and maybe a 5F11. The 5F1+ uses a 2nd 12AX7 so I have that for the Vibro. My Transformers that are in it is a TP25, TO11C and choke TC. I dont know what else I might be able to make from these but I do know that Heyboer makes his trannies. Feel fee to look at http://www.allenamps.com/parts.php#transformers (http://www.allenamps.com/parts.php#transformers) and maybe you can see what else I could use these for
-
It's on the main page of my website. See pic...
Ed was here :icon_biggrin:
-
The small single ended amps have always been popular around here. Lot of members have built them. That whole set of iron would be a good match for any of the Fender single ended amps. Plenty of other brands too.
An that TP25 can be used on several of the small push pull 6V6 amps such as Princeton, Harvard, Vibrolux, etc. I put a TP25 in the old '57 Harvard I restored.
-
:happy1: so a 5f11 definitely, 5E9-A or 5G9 no, I will look at the vibrolux schematic
-
In making underboard connections, do most of you just put the wire in the bottom of the turret and solder, or do any of you bring the wire all the way to the top of the turret bending it over. I read another post on another board where the guy said he brings it to the top and solders everything at once.
I have never really had a problem with inserting about 3/16 in the bottom and soldering. Just asking as I thought it could be a good idea.
Any other methods others may use? I never liked them, but sometimes they are needed. Like on this layout. I may still put some on top, but it looks pretty simple to unhook the pot side if needed to get under.
-
:happy1: so a 5f11 definitely, 5E9-A or 5G9 no, I will look at the vibrolux schematic
That is what I am talking about. Planning another build while building one.
Who needs pedals when you have 77 amps, right? :l2:
-
I've seen both ways here Ed, under board wires up threw bottom and out top and bent over. If you have room then you can pass top stuff threw and out bottom. That would work fine and you can work on those lovely soldering ball. What I noticed would be a problem for me is when you have top mount jumpers, I'm gonna undo those caps and resisters and wrap turret mil-spec most likely to reduce soldering headache for me
-
Another rainy day. Today I ravaged the Lightning! It's a donor for this amp.
I like the chassis, is this to be water tight amp? :-)
-
so a 5f11 definitely, 5E9-A or 5G9 no, I will look at the vibrolux schematic
Those would be good candidates for the TP25 also. It'll probably work well with any of the Fender PP 6V6 or 6BQ5 amps.
-
I like the chassis, is this to be water tight amp? :-)
I want it to float! :laugh:
-
What I noticed would be a problem for me is when you have top mount jumpers
Make it easy on yourself next time. Solder those topside jumpers BEFORE you even think about loading components.
-
I have never really had a problem with inserting about 3/16 in the bottom and soldering.
I highly recommend you bring the bottom jumper all the way through the turret and hook it back over so it will absolutely not come out accidentally. Some day later you may remove/replace a component and when you insert the new one back in the turret you may actually push the jumper wire out of the turret only to find it after troubleshooting for a week! :think1:
-
I have never really had a problem with inserting about 3/16 in the bottom and soldering.
I highly recommend you bring the bottom jumper all the way through the turret and hook it back over so it will absolutely not come out accidentally. Some day later you may remove/replace a component and when you insert the new one back in the turret you may actually push the jumper wire out of the turret only to find it after troubleshooting for a week! :think1:
Got it. Will do. Most of the time I put them on top and solder to the base of the turret or either drill another hole. I have done mostly Marshall type tagboard and I can bring the wire up. I was looking at this layout and it will be difficult to drill holes for every underboard wire. Plus, I am using a red solid board, soooooooooooo I will bring through the top of the turret.
I have a bunch of sozo caps I have been using up and they have thick leads. They will almost fill the hole in the turret by themselves. After this build I believe I will be out of .1's and I know I will be out of .01's. I may rethink the caps for this build for this reason. I will not be able to make it a pretty as you guys if I can't get everything to fit easily.
That is why I ask. Thanks!
-
I have a bunch of sozo caps I have been using up and they have thick leads. They will almost fill the hole in the turret by themselves.
You'll regret using thick leads on this build. I highly recommend using those skinny lead blue metal film resistors and Xicon chicklet caps. Mallory 150s work well also but there is one that is a tight fit between turrets. The board is so tightly packed that you'll have to be extra careful with the M150s or you'll accidentally scar them with the iron. Those Xicons are immune to iron scars.
-
Ed, check this out, itll make you sick. Over at my other forum hangout is a really nice guy named Spin who builds em all. http://byocelectronics.com/board/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48351&start=50 (http://byocelectronics.com/board/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48351&start=50) I cant believe how perfect it all is, you can see all the ways of soldering on his board and pick up a few tips
-
Ed, check this out, itll make you sick. Over at my other forum hangout is a really nice guy named Spin who builds em all. http://byocelectronics.com/board/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48351&start=50 (http://byocelectronics.com/board/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=48351&start=50) I cant believe how perfect it all is, you can see all the ways of soldering on his board and pick up a few tips
I promise, I will not build anything like that. That work is incredible. I will watch that for sure. I like nice work, but I have fooled with old tube radios so much it is hard for me to believe it makes any difference how nice it looks but I do really appreciate nice builds.
I am going to try that parallel heater soon. Seems like a lot of builders are doing it.
Sluckey, I noticed chicklets in both and thought there was a reason. You did notice me saying I need to rethink the caps on this build. All my .5 resistors have thin leads. I will probably simply copy your layout. I used some Sozo blues in a Hoffman Princeton build and it was a bear. Not initially, but I had no idea how much tweaking I was going to have to do using larger Iron. I basically had to change about half of the caps to get it like I wanted and I learned I never want to travel that path again. The .1's covered so much I was standing on my head to keep from scorching the caps.
I got a great big box of them for free a while back. I think I will sell the rest on Ebay. The really do not make a noticeable difference to me anyway.
I will build the board and see what I am up against. I have plenty of caps, but most of them are larger wider than Xicon. You guys will finish much before me. I started on the cabinet and I work slow on my stuff because others get in my way. It is really nice to have 2 other people ahead feeding me information. I would have to be stupid not to listen.
-
It's on the main page of my website. See pic...
Actually some problems with one web browser display in particular on my desktop (Win 7 64 bits).
Still it was OK this morning on my laptop using Win 7 32 (+ Firefox 28.0 as well...).
-
Why are you saving the index page as a pdf??? Just click on the link for the Vox AC 15 file. When the pdf file loads, save that. Or, just right click on the link and chose to save the target file.
-
Why are you saving the index page as a pdf??? Just click on the link for the Vox AC 15 file. When the pdf file loads, save that. Or, just right click on the link and chose to save the target file.
Just to show you there's still an issue with Firefox at the moment. Actually, as you can see in the Firefox PDF, the VAC15_LB.pdf file still doesn't appear...
-
Ah, I got it now! :BangHead:
Firefox is still loading the page from cache. Do a refresh or delete your cache.
-
Hey Sluckey, from the precious question about that transformer set I have, that would work on a BlackFace Face Princeton Reverb, right. I know I need the reverb tranny still
-
Hey Sluckey, from the precious question about that transformer set I have, that would work on a BlackFace Face Princeton Reverb, right. I know I need the reverb tranny still
Not Sluckey, but by set you mean the Output transformer to be used as well? I would say no because it is designed for a Single ended amp, but the description mentions it is capable of the output from 2 6V6's. but I think it means in parallel and not Push Pull. It could be very cool to build a Princeton Reverb with a Single ended 2, 6v6 power section, but if you wanted it to be like Blackface you want to use the TO20 for a Push Pull, fixed bias.
-
Just checked out the build pics and my first thought was "what's with all the spaghetti tubing!? And for grounds too? Leather wrapping of filter caps? This has OCD written all over it and heaven help if there's circuit modifications to be had? Other than this, it VERY nice indeed and I look the other way on that other stuff. :wink: Good job lego! :icon_biggrin:
-
A little chassis work today. Tube sockets, cap can, and board mounted. Looks like the sun is coming out though...
EDIT... big pic removed.
-
:huh: How did you get that far so fast. You keep blank chassis laying around .
-
A little chassis work today. Tube sockets, cap can, and board mounted. Looks like the sun is coming out though...
Sweet Jesus !
:huh:
Sun, do stay away !
-
Just checked out the build pics and my first thought was "what's with all the spaghetti tubing!? And for grounds too? Leather wrapping of filter caps? This has OCD written all over it and heaven help if there's circuit modifications to be had? Other than this, it VERY nice indeed and I look the other way on that other stuff. :wink: Good job lego! :icon_biggrin:
Jojo, what do you mean by Spagetti tubing? Looks like the Marshall style layout Voa AC15 is the amp to build right now. Lego was building and posting at BYOC and Sluckey invited him over here. Well a few of us begged, like me. I have 2 great builders ahead of me cutting a path and testing the waters. My build should go fine as a result.
I had a 63 Vox AC15 Single 12 years ago. Before I understood Push Pull and could only really repair TV and some radios. I was around 16 and could not afford a amp that was nor reliable. Back then we played so loud I cranked and pushed it hard next to my Super Reverb. Lons story short, I sold it for next to nothing, but learned a valuable lesson. Rare amps become more valuable.
I want another as it was the coolest amp I ever owned. Euphoric recall. :l2:
I have done research, lots of it. I am interested to find out how the Hammond OT is going to work. I have a way to get an original and I found an original choke. The guy with the original suggested I use a Mercury 2 tap 59 series clone of the radiospares for durability if I were going to play it often. Anyway, I mentioned to Sluckey about putting the filter caps on the board, so he graciously revised the file for this.
He is building this version and Lego is building the short version with the cap board. I don't know if either will make a difference, but I am leaning hard towards the Long version. I was waiting for Sluckey to revise the layout and I started with building cabinets. He did it much faster than I thought.
I think he is really jonesing for one of these himself. Just to bring you up to speed since you were on holiday in Hawaii. That is what the upper class does. :icon_biggrin:
-
A little chassis work today. Tube sockets, cap can, and board mounted. Looks like the sun is coming out though...
I am missing the 8 pin socket for the optional 5v Rectifier. Did you ditch the idea, or is it coming. I was planning to do this too, but I wanted to see if you were going to make it switchable and how you were going to do it.
t first glance it looks like a chassis for a huge preamp. I had to count the sockets. :laugh:
You have the cap centered on 4" and the sockets continuing centered on 2" leaving 2 " at the end"?
-
I am missing the 8 pin socket for the optional 5v Rectifier. Did you ditch the idea, or is it coming. I was planning to do this too, but I wanted to see if you were going to make it switchable and how you were going to do it.
I was forced to use the EZ81 rectifier because I can't find my big step bit. I remember doing something very clever with it, but I don't recall what that was! If I find it before I start wiring I'll probably enlarge the hole and use a 5Y3. I was never planning on a switchable rectifier.
Those gold plated Cinch sockets look good on that blue painters tape, don't they. :grin:
-
Just checked out the build pics and my first thought was "what's with all the spaghetti tubing!?
Jojo, what do you mean by Spagetti tubing?
In the image below, the clear/whitish insulation on the buss wires and connection is called "spaghetti" tubing.
In reality, the stuff that guy was using is teflon tubing that he's sliding over exposed buss wire to prevent an accidental short-circuit. There was a varnish black cloth tubing used in the old days called "spaghetti". Antique Electronic Supply has some that's white. I originally saw it inside of a kit-build Fisher hi-fi, which still had the assembly instructions where the loose insulation was called spaghetti.
(http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n232/spint3/amps/soldano3-9008.jpg)
-
I am missing the 8 pin socket for the optional 5v Rectifier. Did you ditch the idea, or is it coming. I was planning to do this too, but I wanted to see if you were going to make it switchable and how you were going to do it.
I was forced to use the EZ81 rectifier because I can't find my big step bit. I remember doing something very clever with it, but I don't recall what that was! If I find it before I start wiring I'll probably enlarge the hole and use a 5Y3. I was never planning on a switchable rectifier.
Those gold plated Cinch sockets look good on that blue painters tape, don't they. :grin:
They sure do, you are not planning paint I hope? Are you planning a cabinet and faceplate for this or you going for the industrial look again?
I have found some really nice old ceramic sockets, but I only have 6 of them in 9 pin. They look so nice, I am going to mismatch, I like them so much.
-
Just checked out the build pics and my first thought was "what's with all the spaghetti tubing!?
Jojo, what do you mean by Spagetti tubing?
In the image below, the clear/whitish insulation on the buss wires and connection is called "spaghetti" tubing.
In reality, the stuff that guy was using is teflon tubing that he's sliding over exposed buss wire to prevent an accidental short-circuit. There was a varnish black cloth tubing used in the old days called "spaghetti". Antique Electronic Supply has some that's white. I originally saw it inside of a kit-build Fisher hi-fi, which still had the assembly instructions where the loose insulation was called spaghetti.
Yes, I have some of that. Just did not know what it was called. I did not notice any on Lego's board. Thanks, I wao=ndered what it was called. I have been using it a lot lately attempting to build without any wire or tagstrips. True point tp point. I started with a champ and then a 5E3. Took that apart and now I am truing to do a 5G9. Takes a lot of thinking and I am really getting a great appreciation for the guys that built all these old Console Radios that ate quiet as all gitout, but they used parts they had that we will not use because they are too noisy.
-
So many amps to build, so little time and money. I have pedals in my closet, on my board, in my locker, a dozen finished and working but not in a enclosure and blank board waiting :BangHead:My wife asks why? And I say for the same reason you have all those shoes :laugh: I didn't use the buss covering because it wasn't on hand at time and I would have bugged out trying to do all that. My bucket list is a BFPR, 5G9, BluesBreaker and a TrainWreck in no specific order. At my speed I'll be retiring when done
-
But since I have the iron for a 5F11 I can do that one. On the 5F11 subject, I looked at the 5E11 schematics and layout. Is it me or is the only difference Two resistor values? One is the 10k of the positive side off the selenium rec and other is the 100k off preamp going to .1uf
-
Have you dropped out of the AC15 project?
-
Oh No, not at All. I'm in limbo waiting for Chassis, transformers etc..... Tying to keep the wheels rolling so when I'm ready to start another project I have everything I need from parts to paperwork.
-
Just checked out the build pics and my first thought was "what's with all the spaghetti tubing!?
Jojo, what do you mean by Spagetti tubing?
In the image below, the clear/whitish insulation on the buss wires and connection is called "spaghetti" tubing.
In reality, the stuff that guy was using is teflon tubing that he's sliding over exposed buss wire to prevent an accidental short-circuit. There was a varnish black cloth tubing used in the old days called "spaghetti". Antique Electronic Supply has some that's white. I originally saw it inside of a kit-build Fisher hi-fi, which still had the assembly instructions where the loose insulation was called spaghetti.
Yes, I have some of that. Just did not know what it was called. I did not notice any on Lego's board. Thanks, I wao=ndered what it was called. I have been using it a lot lately attempting to build without any wire or tagstrips.
Thanks for getting me up to speed ED! I have an AC15 w/ Celestion Blue and a homebrew EF86 AC15-ish in a chassis-only...one of my earliest builds but not sure if these are a lot different or "special"? If so can you enlighten me on it? Is this also related to BNWitt's desired build from a ways back at all?
I also thought sluckey had built his "last amp" a year ago? :dontknow: But how could that be any more believeable that my bass player announcing that we played "Brown Eyed Girl" for the very last time a year ago and it somehow finds it's place in our set list virtually every gig since - and he makes the set lists, lol. :l2:
Here's more spagetti pics I was looking at before-
-
Jojo,
I am not going to try to enlighten you on anything. If you have one, bless your heart as we say in the south. :w2:
They are really rare, that is what I mean. I never heard yours, but I heard mine and I remember it being cool. I need to build a EL84 amp since I never have and I thought of you when I thought of the EF86, that is for sure.
I do not think Binwitt ever got around to doping it, but ever since I saw the layout, it has been on my mind. I think SLuckey did a killer job. I think he is building this to show me it aint the amp, but it is the player. :l2:
I asked about it a while back and here we are. Here is the faceplate since I am working backwards. I needed a single 12 cabinet anyway, so I thought this would be a good time for me to build one. I have too many 2, 12's and quite a few 2, 10's. Then there are my Super Reberbs (bestdamampeverbuiltandyouknowitbecauseeveryotherampwantstobeit).
Here is a faceplate I am working on. Please take a look as I have been known to make them backwards. :laugh:
I have to change the input area to allow for more space, but who needs low and high labeled. Some are switches and I will probably use fender cream knobs or either black chicken like a vox is.
Glad to have you back Jojo, but I hate you had to leave Hawaii.
-
Like the faceplate but only confused on the power / standby area in that the OFF position should be on the same lower position yeah? Otherwise I like it. What about the name SuperBolt? Seems like maybe a Supro? Anyway, I know you'll get it figured out. Is anyone making theirs with reverb? Just curious seeing Sluckey's with all those tubes. Confirming - you will be building strictly on the fly from memory right!? :wink: When you speak of Hammond trannies and knowing your fondness for the old organs I have a hard time knowing if you're referencing current production Hammonds or the old organ donor iron? I've used both with nice results it's just that using the old stuff you normally don't get the multi taps is all and you've got to figure out the actual pri-z if you truely want or need to know for some reason.
I spent my flight times by finally making a layout for my VexiPlexi. My seating area partners must've thought I was a bit nuts!? I caught a few watching as if they couldn't take their eyes off of it like a car chase on TV :laugh: It was nice to finally get traction going again on it and I'm glad I'm not going overboard with gain stages. I'm realizing what sounds good in the house, studio, and on stage are different things. Shoot, just realized I'm dragging this thread down. Sorry Sluckey & lego :embarrassed:
-
Like the faceplate but only confused on the power / standby area in that the OFF position should be on the same lower position yeah?
Maybe that switch could have the labels "Standby" & "On" (in place of "Off").
I know what Ed meant with the original labels, but sure, others would be confused.
-
I didn't get much done today. Mounted the iron and loaded the back panel.
EDIT... big pic removed.
-
Like the faceplate but only confused on the power / standby area in that the OFF position should be on the same lower position yeah? Otherwise I like it. What about the name SuperBolt? Seems like maybe a Supro? Anyway, I know you'll get it figured out. Is anyone making theirs with reverb? Just curious seeing Sluckey's with all those tubes. Confirming - you will be building strictly on the fly from memory right!? :wink: When you speak of Hammond trannies and knowing your fondness for the old organs I have a hard time knowing if you're referencing current production Hammonds or the old organ donor iron? I've used both with nice results it's just that using the old stuff you normally don't get the multi taps is all and you've got to figure out the actual pri-z if you truely want or need to know for some reason.
I spent my flight times by finally making a layout for my VexiPlexi. My seating area partners must've thought I was a bit nuts!? I caught a few watching as if they couldn't take their eyes off of it like a car chase on TV :laugh: It was nice to finally get traction going again on it and I'm glad I'm not going overboard with gain stages. I'm realizing what sounds good in the house, studio, and on stage are different things. Shoot, just realized I'm dragging this thread down. Sorry Sluckey & lego :embarrassed:
That is why i posted the faceplate. I make mistakes and I appreciate your catching them.
If you notice there is more to the top and this is to screw to the inside back of the head box.
I need to change it to on. To tell you the truth, I rushed through it and posted it knowing you guys would be helpful and you are. HBP knows I know and I do. I am not one to pay close attention to details. I have gotten a lot better.
You are correct when you talk about Hammond. I do mean both. I have a few Baldwin pulls that look very nice.
On the research thing I have found a guy willing to share knowledge and he has a lot. He mentioned Denny built using large Iron for the job and I remember the one I had this was very true. Just listening to one you would think the OT gets saturated, but that is far from the truth. They were over spec'd and the write up on Mercury site is not really the whole story. That is why I think the organ stuff I have would work well.......................but...............I am not going to use any of it. I am going to use Mercury OT and I have an original choke. Many have told me that they used the Radiospares toneclone for the best results. It is all opinion, but they sound different than any other EL84 amp I have played including the Drz and Goodsell along with matchless.
Word is the difference comes from strong Iron and great ripple reduction which does not make you think it is so. We shall see as the Iron Sluckey and Lego4040 are using is good stuff and very sturdy for the job. I am using the same PT mainly because I have one.
On the faceplate, I have the color matched and picked up just enough to make it look vox. Please, please point out any problems you may see. I am going to prep the chassis soon and I will install the faceplate before drilling and punching.
I am getting somethings done, but not much. Stick with us we will get the amps singing soon.
No, I will not be building this from memory. Although you know I can build an amp from memory now. :icon_biggrin:
Be quiet with this comment. There are some who will punish me. :l2:
Still playing with PtP builds and really like it. They are really a challenge.
-
Oh yea JoJo, SuperBolt is on all my amps. It helps the sell when I am tired of them. Who wants to buy an amp with no name on them. Remember Branding?
-
I got some reading to catch up on but here is a real vox AC/30. I'm at town hall seeing Neil Finn tonight who is a genius and loves vox
-
So Neil's pedal board fails 2nd song into set and he says fuck the pedals and plug straight into the amp(ac30) vox tules
-
Be quiet with this comment. There are some who will punish me. :l2:
Still playing with PtP builds and really like it. They are really a challenge.
Don't worry, nobody will find out your secret. :lipsrsealed:
Here's the EF86 channel AC15-ish chassis amp going waaaay back in the day that still sit's on a shelf & gets dusted off every once in a while to remind me how far things have come, it's a hybrid sort of P2P does that count? Actually I have others but again don't want to stray from the AC15 topic. This can be an example of how small & simple one can be made and without tone knobs too. But it does have a gain switch and pentode/triode mode for both ef86 and the EL84s.
-
So Neil's pedal board fails 2nd song into set and he says fuck the pedals and plug straight into the amp(ac30) vox tules
lego - now I want to hear what came of it!?
-
The sound was incredible. You don't need pedals except for the modulated stuff. He is a family oriented person, his wif is the bassist and for second encore he brought out Liam and Elroy jus sons and ripped on Bowies Moonlight Daydream, not since Racer X gave I heard a fantastic version
-
Does this resemble the Vox faceplate?
EDIT... big pic removed.
-
Quick question, is your context spell correction working on the new forum. Mine is not.
Yes. Your spell checker for your face plate software is not working either. :icon_biggrin:
Mine is reverse of yours. Is mine backwards?
yes
-
That looks good Ed. I would put the ON label above the power switch though. And I like to label the standby switch with "OPERATE" above and "STANDBY" below.
-
So when can I order one, seriously.
-
Man, you guys are having too much fun over here....I'm enjoying reading along
I love to see tube fever running rampant :thumbsup:
This will make a very good build guide for the future, covering every detail.
Keep up the good work lego and keep inspiring the "regulars"
-
Don't understand. Standby=No Dc, Correct. Marshall switches go down for contact and up to break contact. I like the term operate, so shouldn't operate be on the bottom replacing ON?
Also, if you would, please address the jumping. If I can put a switch I would love to remove the low jacks.
The switch don't care. If you want to play guitar when the switch is up, put "OPERATE" above the switch. If you want to play guitar when the switch is down, put "OPERATE" below the switch and simply rotate the switch body 180°. In my mind it makes more sense to flip both switches up to be on and operating.
You can use a switch to jump the channels. Here's another option... Just use a single input jack and a three position switch to select either channel or both channels. Might look like this...
EDIT... big pic removed.
-
If you install them upside down they are about 3/16 from the chassis. Maybe even a tad closer. I am scared this is too close. Do you agree?
I would not be concerned about 3/16" clearance. Put a piece of electrical tape (or other insulating material) on the chassis near the contacts if it makes you feel safer. This is done all the time.
I really want to do the front switching and I know you know how or you would have not mentioned it. I just cannot get my head around it. Is it on-on-on DPDT with the input to the center.
Yes. It's a DPDT on-on-on. Connect the jack to both center terminals. Connect one end terminal to NOR tube. Connect the opposite end terminal for the adjacent switch to the VIB tube. It may be difficult to find a toggle switch that matches your Carling switches though.
Maybe a better solution would be to use this 3 pole 3 position rotary switch from AES...
http://www.tubesandmore.com/products/P-H395 (http://www.tubesandmore.com/products/P-H395)
-
I have a friend that REALLY wants an AC-15 so I'm pricing it out for him. The only 22K 7W resistor I can find on mouser must be purchased in quantities of 100 or more. Does someone have another source for these?
-
That 22K 7W spec came from a parts list that I got from Bnwitt. The power spec is unconfirmed. I'm just using a 22K 3W metal oxide available from Hoffman for now. I plan to measure the actual dissipation as soon as the amp is built. The 3 watter may just be enough. If not, my plan is to use two each 47K 3W in parallel.
BTW, my long board layout is designed to accept the 3 watt metal oxide resistors. Using another form factor might not fit very well without board modifications. If you use the separate cap board you have room for almost any form factor for 10 watters or less.
-
I'm not ordering right now just giving ballpark cost but I am trying to put together a BOM to make ordering the parts easier in the future.
What are the dimensions of chassis people are using?
-
The chassis I'm using (see reply #146) is 20 x 6.5 x 2.5. Got it from watts. I would not go any smaller.
-
I do however have an amp room, or closet. Whatever you want to call it and it is almost soundproof. I control volume by how far I open the door. :icon_biggrin:
There is only my wife and dogs at my house and neither care as they hear it every day. I guess I am lucky as many wives do not like loud guitar. Mine doesn't either, but she lives with it and I live with Dance Moms and a million bottles and brushes in the bathroom. :l2: I believe after 40 in men a new gene appears and I call it the apathetic gene.
You know the difference between ignorance and apathy?
I don't know and I don't care. :laugh: I have had waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy to much coffee. I will quit now.
I was just trying to catch-up on this by reading the entire thing but it's very challenging to say the least as the new posts keep popping like Jiffy Pop popcorn.
Ed, that's some funny stuff there and nothing closer to the truth for me too! You know the things that are funniest are the things that are closest to reality in real life situations. A good comic knows this and Ed my friend, I think you may be missing your true calling???!!! :l2:
-
Ed, I noticed the pilot light is not in line with the other controls. Is that planned?
-
Ed that's perfect , I'm using ken watts 20" x6.5 x 2.5 chassis.my tubes came in also. Is that the color or what you put on with the program
-
I will look at a head I was interested in for the face measurement. 100 hours of break in :dontknow: I thought a bout using Jupiter Reds for the Vibrolux
-
What ever size 17" and longer is great Ed, I'll probably have cab made and give them the size needed
-
I got the front panel drilled and loaded today. Even got a poor man's face plate on it. Beginning to look more like an amp now.
EDIT... big pic removed.
-
The faceplate is inkjet photo paper stuck to the chassis with double sided carpet tape. :laugh: I rather have one of your fancy plates but I would require 20" long.
All four toggle switches are short bat Carling SPST (like Doug sells).
-
:worthy1: I need to hit lotto so I can just work on this all day. I couldn't get my head wrapped around your DPDT theory, can someone draw it out? I'm working on 4hrs sleep out of the last 48. Last nights :m1 and :d2: wearing me down right now
-
Been reading your reply Sluckey on the one input way for switching between normal and vib. I get on-on-on but why dpdt not spdt :dontknow: if your signal is going to center and the two other legs are either nor/vib. My other question is since it's only one input each channel are you using high or low? I'm sure with another switch you can put that on back of chassis and have that option still.
-
I get on-on-on but why dpdt not spdt
I've never seen a single pole three position switch where the center position made contact with both outer lugs (ON-ON-ON). The usual configuration is the center position makes contact with no other lugs (ON-OFF-ON). I suppose someone may make such a switch.
However, ON-ON-ON configuration is commonly available in double pole switches. Look at switch 7211 in this C&K spec sheet (page 2). Imagine pins 2 and 5 tied together and connected to the input jack. Now connect pin 3 to CH 1 and pin 4 to CH 2. This wiring will give you CH1, both, CH2.
http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/60/7000Toggle_20feb14-241455.pdf (http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/60/7000Toggle_20feb14-241455.pdf)
My other question is since it's only one input each channel are you using high or low?
It's high. The low input is just a voltage divider sample (lower level) of the high input.
-
:BangHead: thank you Sluckey. Not like I haven't used these in pedal builds, I just blank with the amp build because of size a lack of experience.
-
Here's an easy board mod for those who like to check bias. Just add two turrets and two 1Ω resistors. The big 130Ω/10W will need to be replaced with a 130Ω/5W. See pic...
EDIT... big pic removed.
-
I get on-on-on but why dpdt not spdt
I've never seen a single pole three position switch where the center position made contact with both outer lugs (ON-ON-ON). The usual configuration is the center position makes contact with no other lugs (ON-OFF-ON). I suppose someone may make such a switch.
You get single-pole On-On-On in a rotary switch. It takes 4 contacts; 3 switched circuits and a common.
Like you said, maybe someone out there makes one, but I've not seen it in a toggle switch. You'd probably only need to buy a couple hundred-thousand to have a company custom-make them. :icon_biggrin:
-
That bias mod is easy enough to do. I drew your switch out and I get it, I had my number to pins wrong when I first drew it out. But with the two lows gone now and only one line going into switch legs 2&5 what is the wiring layout for the two jacks. I know you need the 68k for them but not sure on the rest
-
I'm going to try and answer my question :l2: does this look right? Or do I loose that 1M or am I way off(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/F0AB2BB5-0D93-4573-B7B8-AFB35CC546DC_zpshijv75lk.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/F0AB2BB5-0D93-4573-B7B8-AFB35CC546DC_zpshijv75lk.jpg.html)
-
does this look right?
yes
-
:thumbsup: It takes a while but sometimes the mind works right. Thanks for the patience
-
does this look right?
yes
There is one thing I forgot to mention... You need to remove the 1MΩ from the hi jack. Now install two 1MΩ resistors on the switch. One connects to pin 3 and gnd, the other connects to pin 4 and gnd. This way both tubes always have a grid return to ground regardless of the switch position.
-
Looks like I'm backing up but I'm really still in forward gear. All chassis drilling is completed and heavy stuff removed to facilitate some wiring such as filament string and board interconnects. But I've got to break away for a few days and take care of some yard and garden chores. Come on rain!
EDIT... big pic removed.
-
:worthy1: I made the schematic change for the switch, thank you. I finally heard back about chassis and parts, and of coarse they were slow getting shipment out and I'll be away when it gets to my house :BangHead: :cussing: Post office better not loose it. I got to call my buddy and see if the Iron got in yesterday too
-
That is beautiful
-
Did it come with that shield around the IC connector? Why is that needed as it seems it would create more problems.
Look closely at the schematic on it.
There's a little circuit inside to kill incoming line noise. There's different types for different equipment and different dB loss at different frequencies? A few R's, a few C's and maybe a small inductor or 2.
Look up Corcom inlet filters at Mouser. I can't seem to capture the link. There's differential, common mode and combinations of the 2. Can't explain any more as this is above my pay bracket. :laugh:
Brad :icon_biggrin:
-
Is sort of a line conditioner?
Yes. It kills line noise hash before it can get into the PT primary.
Go back and look at my post as I added text while you were posting.
I would bet that most guys here would say it's over kill but with more and more electronic gadgets coming on the AC power grid and more and more loading of the AC grid with sudden spikes of use there's more and more noise coming on line with it.
Brad :icon_biggrin:
-
I use them all the time, just did not know what they were, I got it now. The ones I rob from power supplies are made this way. Mine just look different.
Thanks!!!
-
There called power entry modules in the Mouser catalog for EMI and RF.
I would think at this point most if not all computers come with these stock as there not much money anymore because of mass production?
Medical equipment uses special types so no one who's hooked up to a machine gets messed up because of interference coming in from the wall acv. Those seem to cost a lot more but if it saves a life fine. We don't need as much protection as they do just for our amps to knock down some line noise.
Brad :icon_biggrin:
-
I got a few donor pc's for those receptacles, On pedal builds we usually just add a 100ohm resistor(dont hold me to that value) in series with the hot side coming in. I got my board soldered, both sides. And after close look I had one leg wrong on the underboard wiring. I fixed it and Im in limbo while other parts come What do you guys use to get rid of the flux specs? I will remember next time to solder jumpers before populating. I knicked one Mallory with solder gun :BangHead: Not bad but I was doing real good until that
-
Couple of questions about your chassis. Did it come with that shield around the IC connector?
My chassis came as a completely undrilled empty blank box. The IEC connector has a built in EMI line filter. I used it only because I had it and I didn't have a plain Jane IEC connector. Certainly not necessary.
Also, did you tap the holes or did it come that way. I have never felt confident with bolting into aluminum. Do the holes hold up well, or is there a nut in the other side I cannot see?
I tapped the tube socket screw holes with a 4-40 bit. The cap can is tapped for 6-32. This is a thick chassis. Light weight stuff like the sockets are very secure. All iron is bolted on using 10-32 screws and kep nuts.
-
What do you guys use to get rid of the flux specs?
Mineral spirits works well. I also have an aerosol can of flux remover that works well. I think Doug once said he allows the flecks to harden somewhat then just uses some pointy object to just flick them off.
-
Looking through the parts bin today... I have a hammond 270FX power transformer already - I don't even remember what I bought it for. I also have two triad chokes; C-7X 10H, 90mA, 270 ohms and a C-14X 6H, 200mA, 150 ohms. Could I use either of those chokes?
Also, in another thread there was a question about the best output transformer for this amp but it doesn't seem like there was any real consensus.
-
I would use that C-7X if I already had one. This amp is probably gonna idle at about 70mA and all that current will be flowing thru the choke.
I'm using the Hammond 1650F OT mainly because I salvaged it from my Lightning amp. It's a good match for a PP pair of EL84s and the Lightning power amp is almost identical to the AC-15 circuit. If I had to buy new iron it would be a coin toss decision between the Hammond iron and the ClassicTone set for the AC-15. I decided against Mercury Mag solely because of price.
-
I could find no consensus on a transformer set. I did a lot of searching, emailing and speaking with people. I did not find anyone who actually used the Classictone as they all have the same question. 6K primary on it, but Mojotone has one with a 6K primary and they are sold out. People must be using them, but I wonder if they are using then on the newer ones as I have heard they are having a lot of transformer problems.
I decide this way. If I am experimenting with a build, or if I have a strict budget for the build I look for one with the specs I need and go for it. I usually will have one I have puled from something else. One common characteristic of all of the replacements as they are beefy, much more so than say a Princeton.
If I am building an amp for me that I want for a keeper, you know, like I am building a cabined and getting the exact speaker I want I ask myself what I would use if it were free. Then I begin to try to find the best price for that. The reason is by this time I have already spent so much time, effort and money that another $50 is chump change at this point. Hell, I spend 4 and a half hours just looking at the physical sizes of caps to choose the ones I wanted, but this amp is for me and will be a keeper.
I really like Hammond Iron, the stuff from Canada that Logo and Sluckey are using. I would not use the Classictone simply because of the 6K primary and I could not get any response form Magnetic Components. Mojo just told me it dod not matter and I got pissy and told them to just send me one for a JTM45 then. Edcor has one that looks right and is least expensive of all. it is this one:
https://www.edcorusa.com/cxpp21-ms-8_6k (https://www.edcorusa.com/cxpp21-ms-8_6k)
I bought one of these also as I wanted to see how well it sounds against the Mercury I ordered. The specifications look great and is multitap. Looks better to me than the Classictone and almost half the price of the Hammond.
The largest consideration on the Hammond is they make great Transformers and Keep in mind that is what Sluckey is using and I assure you it is not just because he salvaged it from the spitfire. From what I have noticed is if he felt it was not a great choice he would not be using it as I see a lot of Mercury iron in his other builds.
I know this was long and I hope it helped. The Edcor is great stuff and if I were contract building one (which I think you are doing), it is what I would use for Power, Choke and Output. I could make a tad more money and not feel bad at all. They look great and when I have used them for builds the client feels they are an upgrade since most of us are used to seeing silver and black end bells.
-
The Edcor is great stuff and if I were contract building one (which I think you are doing), it is what I would use for Power, Choke and Output. I could make a tad more money and not feel bad at all. They look great and when I have used them for builds the client feels they are an upgrade since most of us are used to seeing silver and black end bells.
I wouldn't say I was "contract building" an amp. My friend knows I build stuff and he really wants an AC15 so this thread caught my eye. I am putting together a breadboard version of my 1 watt amp to build and while I was digging out the parts I noticed I had quite a few parts that work for this project. When I was younger and had more disposable income, I would buy stuff thinking I would build but usually never got around to it. Now I'm trying to use what I have.
By the way, the edcor transformer you linked to is 8.6K while the Hammond that Steve suggests is 7.6K. Did you mean to link to the edcor CXPP25-MS-7.6K (https://www.edcorusa.com/cxpp25-ms-7_6k)?
I've heard good things about ClassicTone in general so I wonder why they don't make a transformer that is closer to the AC15 spec.
-
ClassicTone's claim states " Vox AC15** Style Amplifiers ".
-
The Edcor is great stuff and if I were contract building one (which I think you are doing), it is what I would use for Power, Choke and Output. I could make a tad more money and not feel bad at all. They look great and when I have used them for builds the client feels they are an upgrade since most of us are used to seeing silver and black end bells.
I wouldn't say I was "contract building" an amp. My friend knows I build stuff and he really wants an AC15 so this thread caught my eye. I am putting together a breadboard version of my 1 watt amp to build and while I was digging out the parts I noticed I had quite a few parts that work for this project. When I was younger and had more disposable income, I would buy stuff thinking I would build but usually never got around to it. Now I'm trying to use what I have.
By the way, the edcor transformer you linked to is 8.6K while the Hammond that Steve suggests is 7.6K. Did you mean to link to the edcor CXPP25-MS-7.6K (https://www.edcorusa.com/cxpp25-ms-7_6k)?
I've heard good things about ClassicTone in general so I wonder why they don't make a transformer that is closer to the AC15 spec.
I did not intend to link to the one you linked to. The one you linked to will work as well IMO. I just ordered the other one because it's primary is over 8k and some of the older OT's speck for EL84's were upwards to 10k on the primary side. Hammond has been making transformers a long time and I have never had a problem with them. They are bulletproof, for the lack of a better term.
I ordered it because of the power wattage being less. I have another 10K pull from a Bladwin organ. This one falls sort of of in the middle and will give ma many alternatices for tewaking. I can sell any OT I have pretty quickly if it can be used for Push Pull 6v6 or EL84. I do collect too many parts and completely understand as I have stuff I am sure will never be built. I also have radio parts like this. I am not under the delusion "i will build this or that one day". :l2:
Like any other hobby I have, I usually go overboard. :icon_biggrin: I did not mean anything about the contract comment other than building for someone else.
I am wanting to recreate an amp sound I have in my head from 33 years ago and I know it is different than I remember. It is just one of my crazy things I do. I was simply suggesting the Edcor as a less expensive alternative instead on the Classistone as I am absolutely sure I would not use their AC15 Style OT as Sluckey put is, however in the early years Vox did use a 6k3 primary. If you build it as the layout and use a proper speaker, it will sound like an old vox whether you use Hammond, Mercury or Edcor I believe.
I think we may be splitting hairs here. The only reason I am not using the Hammond is because we have 2 others *Logo 4040 and Sluckey* using the hammond. Also, there is no denying Mercury makes great stuff, but the do put a little snake oil on everything the sell.
There are other great amp builders, most much better than me. IMO, you it would be best to listen those who have a more knowledgeable electronics background.
I have never heard anyone mention anything negative about Edcor and I really like it for a less expensive alternative.
-
ClassicTone's claim states " Vox AC15** Style Amplifiers ".
So does that mean they overheat and fail. :icon_biggrin:
I have't compared, but I expect that there would be a difference in sound between a 6K, 7.6K and 8.6K transformers. What did VOX use, or is it all of the above since they seemed to change manufacturers (Pameko, Woden, Haddon (http://www.mercurymagnetics.com/pages/news/VGmag/VGMay11SHinterview.pdf))? I might have to buy a ClassicTone and have my friend by an Edcor so we can compare.
-
:cry: My parts are still in Fla, I will be off project till end of next week when I get back from Buffalo. I might take a trip to Hammond themselves which is not far from my inlaws. Backordered are the 3mra pot and carling switches :cussing: Maybe Ill score some projects when Im up there
-
Ed, what speaker(s) are you planning to use?
In your research, what have you found to be the wood used in the original cabinet construction?
-
What did VOX use, or is it all of the above since they seemed to change manufacturers
I seem to remember Ken Fisher saying that Vox used 5 or was it 6 different manufactures in the old AC30/15's. He had his favorite of course but that will surly be different for different peoples ears.
(I think it's in the Gerald Webber books where Webber added Kens column's from Vintage Guitar Mag.)
Brad :icon_biggrin:
-
Rain is back! Got the filaments and power supply wired and checked out.
EDIT... big pic removed.
-
Man your a fast bugger. :laugh:
Looks great.
It's snowing here. Roof's and grass are covered already and it's still coming down. :BangHead:
Grass just got nice and green the last 2 days after some rain and sun.
Brad :cussing:
-
It's the new season called springter I heard, I'm head out northwest to Buffalo on wensday, where it's going to be snowing tomorrow and a low of 19*. Sluckey that looks great man, I'm way behind now, it took them a week to send my stuff out and I won't be home to receive it, and the switches and 3mra pot is on back order. I'm gonna order those from somewhere else and just have the extras on hand. Collecting amp parts is Waaayyyyy more expensive then pedal parts. Next build I have everything ordered in one shot.
-
Man Im away for a few days and you guys kick butt and leave me 2 pages to catch up on. The builds look good, I love the faceplates.
Bill
-
Ed, what speaker(s) are you planning to use?
In your research, what have you found to be the wood used in the original cabinet construction?
Single 12 Celestion Blue.
All vox cabs were birch until recently became MDF. The Vox Showroon goes through a few different cabinet forms. The size of the cabinet changes the tone as much if not more than the wood. The AC15 was a small combo cab to have a 12 as the bluesbreaker cab was small for 2, 12. I have never seen a 2, 12 AC15, but I read they are the same as the AC30 2, 12.
I have heard people say pine is warmer and birch is brighter, but I have never noticed this. I build my cabs larger and a little deeper as this will make available a deeper response. I can make it brighter by opening it up.
Here is some info for a replica cab. http://www.voxshowroom.com/northcoast/vox/cabinets/ac15_TE_blk.html (http://www.voxshowroom.com/northcoast/vox/cabinets/ac15_TE_blk.html)
You can see the materials and size.
I am doing a head with a birch 1, 12 cab. It is 3/4 with a box joint and the back is made of 3 panels so I can tune it as close as possible.
-
Rain is back! Got the filaments and power supply wired and checked out.
Sluckey,
Curious as to how you made your ground buss bar? It looks like rivets with cable. What is securing the rivets, pressure from expanding them or is this something else?
Also, what is the size of the machine screws on the tube sockets? I like the idea of tapping and plan to follow. They appear to be shorter than 1/4. If so, where did you get them? Did you use any blue thread locker?
I did get my board made, underboard wires (checked 4 times) and top jumpers. Getting close to begin making my chassis and there are a lot of good ideas in yours I plan to rip off just as soon as I find out what you used. That ground bar makes for a very clean look and also easy to make change if needed.
-
Ed, reply 219 for the tap and screw sizes. Not sure on the buss rivet
-
Curious as to how you made your ground buss bar?
That 2" buss bar is simply a piece of solid 14 AWG house wire soldered between two standoff turrets. The turrets accept a 4-40 screw through the chassis. I've attached a pic from a different angle that clearly shows the bar/turrets. I used that same buss bar in my TDR, 5E3, November, and Lightning builds. In fact that buss bar actually was donated by the Lightning.
Also, what is the size of the machine screws on the tube sockets?
1/4" long #4-40 SS phillips head machine screws. Got'em cheap on eBay.
EDIT... big pic removed.
-
So you put a screw and nut locked into chassis then put turret on that. Did you tap the turret because of soft metal it self tapped?
-
So you put a screw and nut locked into chassis then put turret on that. Did you tap the turret because of soft metal it self tapped?
Much simpler than that. The manufacturer does all the hard stuff. I just drill a hole in the chassis. Look at the pic of my filament string. You'll see a couple turrets installed next to the sockets. Since I'm not using Hi/Lo/ input jacks, I moved the 68K grid stopper resistors to the socket and will mount them between those turrets and the socket.
EDIT... big pic removed.
-
So you put a screw and nut locked into chassis then put turret on that. Did you tap the turret because of soft metal it self tapped?
Much simpler than that. The manufacturer does all the hard stuff. I just drill a hole in the chassis. Look at the pic of my filament string. You'll see a couple turrets installed next to the sockets. Since I'm not using Hi/Lo/ input jacks, I moved the 68K grid stopper resistors to the socket and will mount them between those turrets and the socket.
Where do you purchase those single turrets and what are they called? Is there any reason for the different colors?
Did you use any thread locker on the tube socket screws as I do not see any locknuts? Overkill?
-
Where do you purchase those single turrets and what are they called? Is there any reason for the different colors?
I've never bought any. The ones I have were scrounged from leftovers on various equipment mods I've done to USAF and FAA systems throughout my career. My white ones are ceramic, brown is bakelite, green is some kind of hardened plastic. Color is not significant. They're not cheap and that's why you rarely if ever see them in consumer grade electronics. All the big industrial suppliers will have them. Here's a link to one...
http://www.newark.com/wearnes-cambion/572-4814-01-05-16/terminal-turret-4-40-thread-blue/dp/40F6225?MER=PPSO_N_P_Terminals_None (http://www.newark.com/wearnes-cambion/572-4814-01-05-16/terminal-turret-4-40-thread-blue/dp/40F6225?MER=PPSO_N_P_Terminals_None)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-terminal-studs-Helicopter-HH-53J-M-F16-military-electrical-MIL-T-55155-10A-/380686825818?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item58a2b3f95a (http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-terminal-studs-Helicopter-HH-53J-M-F16-military-electrical-MIL-T-55155-10A-/380686825818?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item58a2b3f95a)
Did you use any thread locker on the tube socket screws as I do not see any locknuts?
There's no need for a nut since the chassis is tapped. And I didn't use thread lock or lock washers since this amp will not be traveling. Lock washers is not a bad idea though.
-
:huh: 6 bucks a pop on that site, 10 for 20 bucks on ebay is more feasable. heres one of those receptacle noise suppressors, this came out of a 430watt power pack for a pc. Its kinda big and looks like Id have to desolder jack to install then resolder
-
I'm going to try and answer my question :l2: does this look right? Or do I loose that 1M or am I way off
what is the switch for?
-
How did you get it out with out unsoldering it? Bust up or cut up the chassis housing?
Brad :think1:
-
I used tin snips to cut around power pack. FYI folks, this cpu power pack carry a wallup just as bad as an amp. The main cap was 450volts on this one, SO BE CAREFULL
-
This is the main reason I choose RG-316 over RG-174. The black wire is soldered directly to the RG-316 shield.
EDIT... big pic removed.
-
That's nice, you don't have to strip a long length to run the shield to it's ground. Much neater and less waste.
Brad :icon_biggrin:
-
So you put a screw and nut locked into chassis then put turret on that. Did you tap the turret because of soft metal it self tapped?
Much simpler than that. The manufacturer does all the hard stuff. I just drill a hole in the chassis. Look at the pic of my filament string. You'll see a couple turrets installed next to the sockets. Since I'm not using Hi/Lo/ input jacks, I moved the 68K grid stopper resistors to the socket and will mount them between those turrets and the socket.
Just got some of these turrets from the link you provided. Offered a total of $30 for 20 and the offer was accepted. I can use these a lot, I wish the new ones were less expensive.
-
Got a little more done today...
EDIT... big pic removed.
-
:happy1: :happy1: my parts came today. Only missing 12 4/40 hex nuts. Boo, I'm away till end of next week
-
... heres one of those receptacle noise suppressors, this came out of a 430watt power pack for a pc.
That thing is an IEC inlet only, without the line filter. It might have an internal fuse holder.
But as Sluckey said, the filter is not absolutely necessary.
-
:huh:
:worthy1:
-
:happy1: :happy1: my parts came today.
All right! :blob8:
Brad :laugh:
-
:huh:
Yeah, he's good, isn't he?
I know it's personal preference but I have to say it's the best work I've seen and I say that using a different layout style! :laugh:
Brad :icon_biggrin:
-
Yeah, he's good, isn't he?
It's art to me...
Picasso - Smickasso :l2: (and I love Picasso)
That should be on display at the Smithsonian!
The good news is that it's raining here too :wink:
Inspirational!.....seriously :thumbsup:
-
I just hope it works! :icon_biggrin:
-
James Taylor, "Sweet dreams and flying machines in pieces on the ground."
I'm bettin she'll fly and then some! Come on baby let's hear that vibrato!!!!!!
Brad :m2
-
Snowing here in Manhattan, SOB. Art work there Silvergun. I wasn't sure if I wanted to put leads on or not myself. I'll dream about parts while I'm away
-
I just hope it works! :icon_biggrin:
I do too as I have a replica of your copy of sort of Vox looking thing. I have looked it over and over and do not see any reason why not. Could you post a close up of your input jacks? Also, I cant quite tell what the triangular part of the switch to the right of the inputs. Is that part of the switch? What is it for?
Is your choke wired yet? Is so, how?
Is that a 1/4 watt 100 ohm resistor on your speed pot? Did you solder to the back of the pot or is it just where you soldered the resistor. I cant see it well, but it looks like you have it on the wiper or lug 1 as it is parallel. Is it really connecting the wiper to lug 3 and then you have a ground from lug 3 to the buss bar? Just checking. :icon_biggrin:
I a a good bit behind, but I want to attempt to get as nice of a look as you are doing. We will see as I have gotten better. It has to do if I have enough patience. I love those single turrets. Can't wait to get mine.
You have an incredible sense of space. I cant wait till you wire to the tube sockets. That is my favorite part of your work.
-
Sluckey,
You truly do remarkable work! That looks phenomenol.
with respect, Tubenit
-
Ed that switch is the bright switch and that's the capacitor across the lugs. That pot is the speed pot with a 100 ohm in series to buss, instead of using three way selector one option is the 3mra pot. It's drawn up and posted in a earlier post but it's the same as the Hoffmans AB763 project
-
Art work there Silvergun.
You might have to change the name of the thread to "Sluckey's take on lego's spin of sluckey's AC15" :l2:
Just kidding lego....keep up the good work...don't bother trying to keep up with sluckey
If I built that board it would take about 3 months and it still wouldn't look that nice!
-
The attached pic should clear up any questions about the jacks, switch, and speed pot wiring. The choke was wired a couple days ago. You can see it in reply #231. Look for the two black wires poking thru a grommet.
EDIT... big pic removed.
-
The attached pic should clear up any questions about the jacks, switch, and speed pot wiring. The choke was wired a couple days ago. You can see it in reply #231. Look for the two black wires poking thru a grommet.
I see it now. I could not see where the choke wires passed the PT wires. That is a very cool buss wire. Man, I am learning some great techniques.
Thanks!
-
Sluckey your right, that heavy gauge aluminum is thick stuff
-
This is the main reason I choose RG-316 over RG-174. The black wire is soldered directly to the RG-316 shield.
I'm not understanding the difference... doesn't RG-174 have a shield as well?
-
I think the difference was that you can solder lead directly on and the Teflon covering core won't melt
-
I think the difference was that you can solder lead directly on and the Teflon covering core won't melt
Ah... I have some 89259 which has a stranded core but teflon dialectric and copper shield (not tinned). Any reason not to use it?
-
Other then it being stranded, I can't see why not use it unless core to thin.
-
I think these (https://www.surplussales.com/Hardware/Standoffs/dap.html)standoff terminals are similar to the one's slukey is using.
Is there an issue with using stranded wire?
-
Hey... I just read that the Hammond 1650F can be used for a Dynaco ST-35 stereo amp. I have a set of output transformers for a Dynaco ST-35 (mine are actually magnequest). Looking more and more like I was meant to build this amp.
-
I think these (https://www.surplussales.com/Hardware/Standoffs/dap.html)standoff terminals are similar to the one's slukey is using.
Thanks for posing that, I just bought a bunch of them.
Brad :icon_biggrin:
-
I prefer stranded sometimes, you can move around more and not worry about breakage.
-
I think these (https://www.surplussales.com/Hardware/Standoffs/dap.html)standoff terminals are similar to the one's slukey is using.
Thanks for posing that, I just bought a bunch of them.
Brad :icon_biggrin:
"Diallyl Phthalate," seriously? That's not an amp part, it's a Foster Brooks punchline.
-
I think these (https://www.surplussales.com/Hardware/Standoffs/dap.html)standoff terminals are similar to the one's slukey is using.
Thanks for posing that, I just bought a bunch of them.
Brad :icon_biggrin:
I looked and the ones I really wanted were sold out, imagine that. I did get a few different kinds. Did you notice the ceramic ones. They are around $2.50 each which I am sure is a good price. I have seen these things before in equipment but never really noticed them if you know what I mean. I will be, from now on salvaging all that i see. 50 to 75¢ are not too bad considering how useful they can be doing modifications.
I am still looking for the meter jack tips that have metal threads and nuts. I am waiting for my cap order and I know I will have one last order to get the things I either forgot or ordered wrong. I usually will make a mistake like 2k7 instead of 27k and it will be on a wattage above what I keep on-hand.
I am going shopping for something to use for buss wire. I want something more rigid than the copper I usually use. I am not sure what Sluckey is using or if it is very rigid, but I do really like the style in which it is implemented. Looks very clean.
-
James Taylor, "Sweet dreams and flying machines in pieces on the ground."
I'm bettin she'll fly and then some! Come on baby let's hear that vibrato!!!!!!
Brad :m2
The vibrato is way cool, but keep in mind the normal channel has a unique tone all of its own and a different touch than any other amp. There I go reminiscing again. I have begun to worry some that my memory may be playing tricks, but a lot of people go through great extremes to attempt to recreate these amps. Some people I have emailed have made exact replicas. There are not near as many people building them as it is harder to clone one. The reproduction cabinets North Coast has are really beginning to help the Vox to be cloned.
-
I am going shopping for something to use for buss wire.
I normally use 14AWG copper house wire but I'm out of that so I used 17 gauge steel electric fencing wire on this project. It's very stiff. I like it better than the copper. Use flux on every solder joint to ensure you cut through the galvanized coating. You can find it at Tractor Supply Co. Or go visit someone in the country. They'll gladly give you a lifetime supply. Here's a link...
http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/fi-shocktrade%3B-steel-wire-17-gauge-350-ft?cm_vc=-10005 (http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/fi-shocktrade%3B-steel-wire-17-gauge-350-ft?cm_vc=-10005)
-
I am still looking for the meter jack tips that have metal threads and nuts.
Mouser/Digikey used to have them, they probable still do. I think they called them heavy duty tip jacks(?), military spec, their metal clad.
Brad :icon_biggrin:
-
I am going shopping for something to use for buss wire.
I normally use 14AWG copper house wire but I'm out of that so I used 17 gauge steel electric fencing wire on this project. It's very stiff. I like it better than the copper. Use flux on every solder joint to ensure you cut through the galvanized coating. You can find it at Tractor Supply Co. Or go visit someone in the country. They'll gladly give you a lifetime supply. Here's a link...
http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/fi-shocktrade%3B-steel-wire-17-gauge-350-ft?cm_vc=-10005 (http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/fi-shocktrade%3B-steel-wire-17-gauge-350-ft?cm_vc=-10005)
Kewl, I have a tractor supply very close to me. I will go by as I am sure I can find more to buy than this. :l2:
I normally use the copper as well, but this looks like it holds shape much better.
Ignore the question coming from another direction. I sent it before I sent this.
-
I am still looking for the meter jack tips that have metal threads and nuts.
Mouser/Digikey used to have them, they probable still do. I think they called them heavy duty tip jacks(?), military spec, their metal clad.
Brad :icon_biggrin:
Found them Mouser. Red, Black and gray. Thanks, I will get them on my last forgot that order. :BangHead:
I was looking at my 5 watt ceramic 22k block resistors and not sure if I am going to like how they fit. Man, this board is tight. I think I have spent more time planning on this board than any other.
-
Hopefully I've made the last solder joint on this amp. (I know, wishful thinking)
If I do any more pics they will be on my website (eventually).
-
:bravo1:
:notworthy:
-
Yeah! Looks top shelf!
And she sounds?
And how does the vibrato sound compared to your Warbler and Revibe?
Brad :icon_biggrin:
-
Great Work Sluckey! Look for UPS tomorrow. I just got through cross referencing the schematic to the layout noting resistor values. Man, there is a lot of parts. I am not sure, but I believe this is the most parts for a seemingly simple amp I have ever seen.
I have a long way to go, but I have a good guideline. I hope I can get to this before it gets lost. I believe it belongs in the archives when Lego gets his built. I may not get done before I have to take a long break for some neck repair.
I hope it sounds great and you need no tweaking as it sounds like you are tired of working on it right now. :worthy1:
Thanks for this as I have wanted one for a long time.
-
Hopefully I've made the last solder joint on this amp. (I know, wishful thinking)
If I do any more pics they will be on my website (eventually).
What is your tube lineup. I would think you have some nice old stock. Did your bias check out?
-
:wav: a picture is worth a thousand words. She is beautiful and I'm sure will ring like a bell. Is she going in a donor cabinet or a new one. My new tube book came in(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/E90BBF64-37D2-4362-ADBA-7EA4CB185685_zpsamaays0b.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/E90BBF64-37D2-4362-ADBA-7EA4CB185685_zpsamaays0b.jpg.html) and I'm reading a article about adding a simple but worthy mod, the power attenuators. Even at 15 watts that amp is gonna be loud and being able to hit that sweet spot at lower volumes I couldn't see why not mentioning this
-
I haven't powered the amp on yet, other than to check power supply and filaments several days ago. I need a break from this thing. I'll get back on it Saturday after I heal a bit! I'm not even gonna look at it tomorrow. Well, maybe a quick peek. :grin:
-
I'm not even gonna look at it tomorrow. Well, maybe a quick peek. :grin:
:laugh:
-
Does the footswitch just ground the grid turning off the tremolo? I am using only the 2 high inputs as well and going to jump the channels with a rear mini toggle. I have gotten some individual turrets and plan the same approach with the grid stoppers. Could I simply wire to the turrets to jump the channels or would it be best to connect at the tube socket?
-
Sluckey,
That is one of the best looking layouts and wiring jobs I've ever seen. Phenomenally well done! Incredibly impeccable work.
I can't wait to hear a review of how it sounds .......... or better yet, a sound clip. You're a great guitarist, so I know you could pull off something really nice to listen to.
Best regards and respect, Tubenit
-
On the original schematic C25 is .033uf and is on the new Vibrato schematic which is C42, but a note stating .047uf in red appears as well. Any reason for the variation or suggested different value?
-
Does the footswitch just ground the grid turning off the tremolo?
No. The FS applies a ground to the 1M resistors in the phase shift loop which enables the oscillator.
Could I simply wire to the turrets to jump the channels or would it be best to connect at the tube socket?
I would wire to the turrets. That way each tube still has it's dedicated grid stopper. BTW, I used 33Ks between the turret and the socket.
On the original schematic C25 is .033uf and is on the new Vibrato schematic which is C42, but a note stating .047uf in red appears as well. Any reason for the variation or suggested different value?
Yes. The schematic shows a .033. Another schematic I have says it's .005 and I didn't believe that. So, I checked on another forum to see if anyone knew the real value. One guy posted a closeup pic of his REAL 1960 AC15. The cap (and it's original) in his amp was really .047! .033 and .047 are close enough for me. I put a .033 on my board just to keep to the original schematic.
-
Does the footswitch just ground the grid turning off the tremolo?
No. The FS applies a ground to the 1M resistors in the phase shift loop which enables the oscillator.
Could I simply wire to the turrets to jump the channels or would it be best to connect at the tube socket?
I would wire to the turrets. That way each tube still has it's dedicated grid stopper. BTW, I used 33Ks between the turret and the socket.
On the original schematic C25 is .033uf and is on the new Vibrato schematic which is C42, but a note stating .047uf in red appears as well. Any reason for the variation or suggested different value?
Yes. The schematic shows a .033. Another schematic I have says it's .005 and I didn't believe that. So, I checked on another forum to see if anyone knew the real value. One guy posted a closeup pic of his REAL 1960 AC15. The cap (and it's original) in his amp was really .047! .033 and .047 are close enough for me. I put a .033 on my board just to keep to the original schematic.
So you just have a Switchcraft 12a connected to ground to enable the oscillator? I can only see one wire, which I assume is grounded and the FS will open and close it if you decide to use one. I usually end up not using a FS as I do not see myself using the VIB channel with the Vibrato/Tremolo off. Come to think of I may put a switch along with the jack, but I remember the normal channel so great with the EF86 I think it may not be any value to even turn off the VIB/TRE.
I guess you got a second wind. It is still fun even though I only ever need one more amp. This one does it for me. I will only mod the ones I have from now on. :l2:
-
Well, I lied! It's raining today so I opened the shop and turned it on. SURPRISE! Everything works exactly as it's supposed to. This layout is now proven. The amp is quiet when it's supposed to be quiet.
The trem/vibrato is wonderful. IMO the trem beats the Fender harmonic vib in my revibe. And the vibrato really is a true pitch shifting vibrato. However, it only has one modulator stage so it's not as lush sounding as my Maggie M10A. And it doesn't have the chorus like effect that I can get from my Warbler which has three modulator stages. Still a nice sound though.
The trem effect is stronger than the vibrato effect so you have to twiddle the depth knob to match intensities. Don't know if that's a design character or a flaw.
The EF86 channel is louder and more in your face than the vibrato channel. And the Brilliance switch is very bright. It would be an improvement to replace the SPST Brilliance switch with a 6-position rotary switch with a variety of caps.
One of my concerns was would that 22K/3W resistor feeding node D hold up. Not to worry. That resistor only dissipates 0.6W so a 3 watter is fine. Ed, get those blue 3 watt metal oxide resistors that Doug sells and they'll fit your board nicely.
I'll be doing some scope testing, signal tracing, and voltage checks in the next few days to see if I can determine if the amp is really working well. More work has gone into this project than any before. So far, I'm very pleased.
There are a couple things I would change if I were gonna do this again.
1. Move the board 1/4" farther away from the pot side of the chassis.
2. Try to space the controls on 1 3/8" centers. My chickenheads are too close and are constantly running into each other. I've already changed them to avoid that, but I really liked the way the chickenheads looked on the front panel.
I'm gonna post one more pic that may be of some use to Ed and lego, or anyone else that choses to build this. This is the ground scheme exactly as implemented in my amp...
EDIT... big pic removed.
-
What speaker and cab did you try?
Moving the board closer to the tube side/ Reason? I am using an 8" chassis.
Does the cut not kill enough highs or you just mentioning a rotary for different tonal options?
I have some cream 7/8 chicken heads on a build that look nice. I was planning round cream fender knobs anyway since my opening is only just at 2".
2 watt should be fine for the 22k, shouldn't they? I have some.
-
Sluckey,
I hope this thread will be appropriately edited down to the basics and put into ARCHIVES at some point!
Bravo on the build! Thanks for sharing your success.
With respect, Tubenit
-
What speaker and cab did you try?
So far all I've tried is my 15" Eminence Big Ben.
Moving the board closer to the tube side/ Reason? I am using an 8" chassis.
Just to give a little more breathing room for the input jacks.
Does the cut not kill enough highs or you just mentioning a rotary for different tonal options?
Cut works very well and if you hit the bright switch you will have to use it. I have a 6 position switch on my AC-15 Lite and it is a big improvement over the stock Vox Brilliance switch.
2 watt should be fine for the 22k, shouldn't they? I have some.
If I had some I'd use them. If I had to buy some I'd get 3 watters.
-
I hope this thread will be appropriately edited down to the basics and put into ARCHIVES at some point!
I wouldn't even know where to begin. What's important and what's not important? All the big pics have been removed so it's pretty much a text only thread now. And the ground scheme I just posted exceeds Doug's 'pixel' limit so I'll take that down as soon as I think all interested will have it.
Jeff, you've done a great job putting things in the archives. Wanna take the challenge? :wink:
I plan to put this project on a page at my website whenever this numb feeling disappears. I plan to tell the whole story, including Barry's part. And all my big pics that used to be in this thread will be there. Maybe even some new ones.
-
Steve I'm stoked your amp sounds fantastic and since mine isn't in chassis yet maybe I will go and do that. All those pics were mine and I'll be glad to resize and post them if we put it into archives. I have a rotary switch from bigdog guitars and can use that but change caps
-
She Fly's!!!!!!!!! :laugh:
The trem/vibrato is wonderful. IMO the trem beats the Fender harmonic vib in my revibe. And the vibrato really is a true pitch shifting vibrato. However, it only has one modulator stage so it's not as lush sounding as my Maggie M10A. And it doesn't have the chorus like effect that I can get from my Warbler which has three modulator stages. Still a nice sound though.
That's great news!
Well now I have to build a 3 or 4 stage vibrato based on this amp that's just a standalone like the Warbler. I started to lay it out last year and posted what I had on this thread. But now I'll have to look at your layout and see if that will take less space over all. I think it does.
Brad :icon_biggrin:
-
I hope this thread will be appropriately edited down to the basics and put into ARCHIVES at some point!
I wouldn't even know where to begin. What's important and what's not important? All the big pics have been removed so it's pretty much a text only thread now. And the ground scheme I just posted exceeds Doug's 'pixel' limit so I'll take that down as soon as I think all interested will have it.
All you have to do is post reasonably sized images and you are good to go
In focus, not too dark, cropped so that you only show what is of interest
A bunch of the images in this post were way too large with way too much non-subject matter surrounding the actual thing of interest.
Steve you have a ground scheme image that is larger than 1024 pixels or 800kb?
Click the images below to see how wide 1024px is
The top image has a bunch of wasted white space above and below the actual text
The bottom has been cropped, for those that don't understand what I mean by cropped
-
Steve you have a ground scheme image that is larger than 1024 pixels or 800kb?
Yes. The file was actually 1754 x 580 pixels. I know that's a wide pic for a cellphone. But the chassis is 20 x 6.5. In order for the ground scheme to be readable the pic has to be wide. However, this is a moot point. The actual file size was only 66KB. So I came in way under your file size limit, but exceeded your 1280 pixels wide limit.
But no matter. The people I wanted to see it have done so and the pic is gone now.
-
lego4040 PM'd me and said he downloaded a image re-sizer app for his phone?
I don't know much about that since I have never owned a cell phone. :laugh:
send me your image by email Steve
EDIT:
I found a really cool web app that can crop and re-size images and it is very easy to use
Check out my tutorial on this page
http://el34world.com/Forum/index.php?topic=464.0 (http://el34world.com/Forum/index.php?topic=464.0)
-
EL34 I worship that you don't have a cell phone. For those with iPhone I got a free resize app and resized to the smallest size then uploaded to photobucket. If someone wants some of my photos I can send them to you directly so they don't eat up Doug's server space.
-
Thanks, but go ahead and post your images.
Posting images is not a problem if they are kept to a decent size
Just follow the guidelines on this page
I just did a tutorial that I hope people will like
Re-sizing an image is only the second step
The first step is to crop out any external stuff not important to the main image
Then your main subject will be as large as possible in the image
http://el34world.com/Forum/index.php?topic=464.msg168926#msg168926 (http://el34world.com/Forum/index.php?topic=464.msg168926#msg168926)
-
I always try to remember to crop out the crap. I was by the Hammond factory but no time to stop in. This last photos by Sluckey show me how to place my trannies.
-
I like that
Crop out the crap! :laugh:
-
Thank you, I tried getting my mother in laws new "smart tv" going :l2: got it going just in time for BlackHawk Bruins Game. I've been reading some of the book I posted a picture of and what's I fiend interesting and I am thinking about is why do I or why would I want a tube rectifier when I can use four diodes? and create my DC. The book doesn't get very techie at all but I think I need to find another book that gets more detailed, so I fully understand and chew on a theory for awhile.
-
There is an error on my schematic and main board layout. The resistor that connects to V5-8 is shown as 2.2K. It should be 1.5K.
The value difference is insignificant because V5B is a unity gain phase splitter. Changing the resistor will accomplish nothing as far as circuit performance, but it will make the circuit agree with the original schematic. I'm gonna change the resistor just because I'm anal about it! :l2:
-
Thank you, I tried getting my mother in laws new "smart tv" going :l2: got it going just in time for BlackHawk Bruins Game. I've been reading some of the book I posted a picture of and what's I fiend interesting and I am thinking about is why do I or why would I want a tube rectifier when I can use four diodes? and create my DC. The book doesn't get very techie at all but I think I need to find another book that gets more detailed, so I fully understand and chew on a theory for awhile.
http://www.ozvalveamps.org/jackdarrhandbook.htm (http://www.ozvalveamps.org/jackdarrhandbook.htm)
Here is jack Darr's book free PDF
Designing Tube Preamps for Guitar and Bass, just search.
London Power, Kevin O'Conner's series of books. These seem expensive, but I finally got a couple of them and while they are not technically hard (which I like) they are just packed with information on modifications.
Gerald Webers book, hip desktop guide is good for the trainwreck pages and for modding fender amps. The Super Reverb mods are nice.
No sooner the I began to understand Bias Vary Tremolo, this Vox thing came along. I still look at the schematic and think what the $*@!.
Then there is always the RCA RDH4 which is free and located in Doug's Library and then there is Doug's library, which you may already know, but I bet you can still pick uo a thing or 2.
My favorite is Merlins Designing Tube Preamps for Guitar and Bass as he leans towards pentodes. It is a really good reference book. For instance, he gives you a multitude of ways to make different voltage dividers which has helped me shoe horn in extra tubes in preamps.
I am playing with a preamp design for about 9 month that has 4 completely different preamp tubes and his book helped me setup each stage keeping the gain controllable. If I had to guess, I believe it is probably the most popular here on the forum.
Personally, I gained more understanding from Jack Darr's free book than any, but that I how I learn best. Some are more visual and I remember Silvergun mentioning the Greald Weber video helped him a lot.
-
London Power, Kevin O'Conner's series of books. I finally got a couple of them.....
Which 1's?
Brad :icon_biggrin:
-
London Power, Kevin O'Conner's series of books. I finally got a couple of them.....
Which 1's?
Brad :icon_biggrin:
4 and 6. Got them off Ebay, but I have not had a chance to crack them open yet. A quick flip through and it looks like #4 is probably the best for those who already have some knowledge. They are dog eared and dirty, but still very useable. I plan to buy some more, but I have more books than I have time. :laugh: I got them specifically because of you and it is your fault if I don't like them. :l2:
Let's see, I am reading RDH4 a lot. Building this Vox and making cabinets. On my KT88 build, I am still not happy with the grill cloth, so I have some new stuff I am going to use soon. I have a 5c1 Champ I robbed the cab for a 5e3, it has a 12 celestion blue and I need a cab for it. I really like that amp a lot and it was my first true Point to Point build. You get the idea.
I am doing the Vox now because Sluckey is leading the way and working out all the bugs. How cool is that?
-
There is an error on my schematic and main board layout. The resistor that connects to V5-8 is shown as 2.2K. It should be 1.5K.
The value difference is insignificant because V5B is a unity gain phase splitter. Changing the resistor will accomplish nothing as far as circuit performance, but it will make the circuit agree with the original schematic. I'm gonna change the resistor just because I'm anal about it! :l2:
Not really a comment on the resistor, just wanted to get your attention.
You added the depth knob, but made this comment.
The trem effect is stronger than the vibrato effect so you have to twiddle the depth knob to match intensities. Don't know if that's a design character or a flaw.
I do not remember switching the Trem and Vib back and fourth nor do I remember if the original had the same intensity when switching. The depth pot is a modification. Is this a problem? I don't have the original schematic handy so I don't know if the 1MA pot replaced a resistor or how you calculated the modification.
If the tremolo is simply stronger, then on the original amp it would have to been intended to be this way since no depth adjustment. I am just wondering if the pot has the same effect on both. I believe the pot simply controls how much of the modulation effect returns to the PI, but is it replacing a resistor in the Vib and not in the trem?
Just guessing as I do not understand how it could be different unless designed that way originally and I do not remember anything being off between them and I certainly am not second guessing your work, just trying to understand.
[/color]
[/color]
-
I got them specifically because of you and it is your fault if I don't like them. :l2:
:laugh:
Those are the 2 hardest to read IMO, still good stuff. They have all the Power Scaling and compression/sustain stuff in them plus master volumes and high gain chapters. 1 and 3 is the most helpful. I'm still glad I have all of them, but I think 1 and 3 covers a whole lot of ground for most people.
Brad :icon_biggrin:
-
Thanks for that Ed, I'll put that in my zip and download. Maybe print it out and have it bound
-
The depth pot is a modification. Is this a problem? I don't have the original schematic handy so I don't know if the 1MA pot replaced a resistor or how you calculated the modification.
The mod is not the reason for the difference in strength of the tremolo versus the vibrato. Open the visio file. Do a new window and arrange the windows side by side. Now put the original schematic in one window and my schematic in the other window. You'll quickly see the very minor changes between the two circuits.
And you can correct notes 2 and 3 while you're looking at it.
-
My experience has been that the Tremolo by it self is stronger than the Vib/Trem together (for the same depth setting).
And the depth (intensity) pot (as Sluckey has on his layout) controls the the tremolo as well as the Vib.
-
The depth pot is a modification. Is this a problem? I don't have the original schematic handy so I don't know if the 1MA pot replaced a resistor or how you calculated the modification.
The mod is not the reason for the difference in strength of the tremolo versus the vibrato. Open the visio file. Do a new window and arrange the windows side by side. Now put the original schematic in one window and my schematic in the other window. You'll quickly see the very minor changes between the two circuits.
And you can correct notes 2 and 3 while you're looking at it.
Already did and I see what you mean. They are identical or as close as anyone would want.
Backwoods Joe knows. :icon_biggrin: Vox amps I mean. I do not remember the difference so it must not be an issue.
I am about 3/4 finished with loading the board. Man alive, now I understand why we have PCB. :l2:
If going nicely and I may have a photo or 2 soon. I ordered caps that I knew would fit, but I wanted to use up spme SoZo yellows and they are fitting nicely, even the .1's. It really is a nice layout and I have plenty of room to solder.
I have a couple of parts I am still waiting on and I am getting some different Teflon jacket single strand I have been wanting to try. Still have not started on the chassis as I am taking my time.
-
Here's another change I had to make while testing today...
The 100K on the speed pot is too small. The oscillator will quit when the speed is turned to maximum. Replace the 100K with a 220K to fix.
-
:worthy1: noted.
-
> those that don't understand what I mean by cropped
> Crop out the crap!
First image, while not over-size, has sink, stone, clothes, and other crap around the object of interest.
Second image has the crap cropped out.
-
Nice Ibanez :l2:
-
Second image has the crap cropped out.
We obviously have different views about what is crap. I was focusing on the tattoo! :icon_biggrin:
-
I can find way hotter stuff than this, but I remember when the forum moderators took the position that things like this could be offensive to other members.
I am far from a prude, just wondering if we have changed our positions. :l2: Positions!
-
Raising a girl to the age of 25 will adjust your position on a lot of things! :laugh:
-
Raising a girl to the age of 25 will adjust your position on a lot of things! :laugh:
Lowering my age to 25 will do the most for changing my position on this. :l2:
-
With one daughter in High school and two younger daughters, you do see women from a different perspective.
-
I've put together a webpage for my AC-15 build. Here's the link...
http://home.comcast.net/~seluckey/amps/VAC15/ac15.htm (http://home.comcast.net/~seluckey/amps/VAC15/ac15.htm)
This is definitely my last amp. The fire is gone.
-
That is awesome Sluckey, I hope another amp inspires you to build so we can follow along. When I get back my transformers will be there at my friends shop. Eds faceplate will be there in my mail and all I will be missing is the 3Rma pot. I don't have enough amp builds to retire. This is my second amp and it's my first scratch. I just found the Gibson GA16T &18T are their version of the tremolux's. I found the sch layout here and will try and find some YouTube vids of one
-
I hope I put together enough big pics to be of some use to you on your build. And as always, if you have questions, ask away.
If you look at the top side of my chassis, there's plenty of room to put the cap board/doghouse on top. That will free up a lot of room inside the chassis. You will appreciate that. Just be careful and plan ahead when you start drilling.
And when you start working the faceplate, I highly recommend at least a 10" 80 tooth carbide tipped blade. And brad point bits for the holes.
-
Done and done. Not sure where I'll put caps
-
Question about the 16uF capacitors C10 and C15... Are these the dual cap can? Hoffman seems to only carry the 32uf dual caps... will these work or should I look elsewhere?
-
Are these the dual cap can?
yes. AES has them.
-
My bad I read your question wrong, Sluckey's cap is dual. I might go that route next build
-
I've put together a webpage for my AC-15 build. Here's the link...
http://home.comcast.net/~seluckey/amps/VAC15/ac15.htm (http://home.comcast.net/~seluckey/amps/VAC15/ac15.htm)
This is definitely my last amp. The fire is gone.
SLuckey,
Even I have made the comment. I said I was only going to maintain what I had and sell most of that. The fire is gone. My wife laughed out loud. You see, every time we are somewhere like traveling through the mountains and we stop at a place that has old stuff around (here in the city they call them antique boutiques) I am drawn to ice cream and things with tube in them. Cant help it, I just like the stuff. Doesn't matter if I buy it, I usually do not, just like looking.
Every once in a blue moon I stumble across "the thing". Most of the time it is a radio, I will admit. Like Jojokeo said to me, you have played or owned about every amp. This is true and after a while it really has to spark something to get me motivated enough to build it for myself.
I love the archiving you did mentioning Barry. He must have been a large influence on the guys here on Hoffman. He came back around just long enough to get the interest in this build. I was new here and watching and wondering if the amp would get built as it has a lot of parts just to be a 15 watt with a wiggle.
I don't really know why this amp is a difficult build, but it is. I have not taken the first photo, but I will as I am just at the loaded board stage. I have built some cabinets, but that is just photos of wood. When complete I will post photos. I think the complex scratch build just takes too much out of me and I have to do thing I don't like to get to do the thing I do like and that is more like a job than hobby.
Stay with me.
When the complex scratch is done, it still is not a 1960 Vox AC15. If I found one needing some TLC next weekend I would probably repair it and put off to the side the scratch build. That is the difference to me. It has something to keeping the history alive that a clone can never do.
However, that being said. No one is making a kit, but it wouldn't take much for Mojotone to add this and an AC30 version to their kits. Wonder if anyone is watching this with the idea in mind?
-
Sluckey, fantastic work. Really makes me want to open up my wallet sooner rather than later and build this.
By the way, since your chicks are figthing I figure you have 3 choices. One, do what you did. Two, get a little red rooster to keep them in line. Three gets some mini chicks from Small Bear
http://www.smallbearelec.com/servlet/Detail?no=1190 (http://www.smallbearelec.com/servlet/Detail?no=1190)
-
I didn't even know there were any mini chicks. Got some ordered. Thanks for the tip.
-
AES has them too.
Brad :icon_biggrin:
-
Ed I just got home and opened the faceplate package :worthy1: what size table saw blade did you use again it rip it down?
-
I used a 10" 80 tooth carbide tipped blade. I also screwed the faceplate to a 1x6 sacrificial board to act as a carrier to make handling easier during the ripping process. Very little filing needed. More like removing the burr edge from a freshly sharpened knife.
-
I used a 10" 80 tooth carbide tipped blade.
Teeth forward or backwards?
We always cut aluminum siding with the carbide tipped blades teeth backwards.
Now that was a thinner stock.
I also screwed the faceplate to a 1x6 sacrificial board to act as a carrier to make handling easier during the ripping process.
Makes good sense as cross cutting a long narrow piece will very much tend to bind and kick back as apposed to cutting a long narrow piece of stock that will smoothly go through the cutting without binding and kicking back. Kick backs not only will mess up the stock but more importantly can and will hurt you VERY seriously!!!!!
Did you leave the face plate hanging over the 1"x6" a little bit so as to only cut the face plate or did you cut through the board and the face plate at the same time?
I think most of you know this but, please remember ONLY leave any circular saw blades teeth extending past the stock as little as possible for safety.
Brad :icon_biggrin:
-
Blade was not installed backwards. I've done the backward blade before on some 1/8" thick aluminum. That generates too much heat for me and does not give as clean a cut. I didn't want to risk burning the ink.
The long edge of the faceplate hung over the edge of the 1x6 by about 1/16". This was done so the faceplate (not the board) made contact with the fence for a true rip. I cut mine on a radial arm saw with the faceplate facing up. Blade was set to cut through the faceplate and about 1/16" into the 1x6. I used a featherboard and push stick to insure a good rip and constant feed rate.
To duplicate what I did on a tablesaw the faceplate would be facing the table with blade height set to just cut through the faceplate and not all the way through the 1x6.
-
I've gotten kick back before, I always try and stand to one side so if I got to move fast it's only a little. Where did you screw plate down, did you use center of pots? I will probably cut it in half then trim. I have a good 10" blade but not carbide tip
-
I screwed it in the white waste area at each end of the faceplate.
-
I use the same blade as Sluckey, but have used a rip blade as well. It is just aluminum. I don't do anything but put tape on the face. I have a Jet eXacta 50" cabinet saw. It is an old one, and very heavy. I have also cut them on a Delta floor model, US made and heavy as well, but not a cabinet saw.
I run the blade down. I use it to cut steel pipe poles for closets. I also use a chop for the same. I cut metal a lot. I actually use the table saw to cut my chassis and to make the holes for laydown transformers. I drill 4 large corner holes and raise the saw blade into the metal while holding the metal down.
My point for saying all this is cutting aluminum or pot metal is not a problem with a wood saw. Actually cutting Maple or 3/4 inch Birch is harder. Just move it slow. I cut yours and Sluckeys in half before I shipped them. All I did was set the rail, turn it on and cut it while all the time WEARING SAFETY GLASSES!!
-
My iron came in and its time to tape chassis up and measure things out (http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/4F7AF0EF-D317-413F-BE4B-A5D8E450AAD2_zpsaudsatlo.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/4F7AF0EF-D317-413F-BE4B-A5D8E450AAD2_zpsaudsatlo.jpg.html) and cut faceplate
-
The rest of my stuff is on Fedex for tomorrow delivery. The only thing left is the last order which contains all the stuff I forgot about. Really I have everything I need now, I just wanted to use Teflon Hookup wire in a nice color scheme and I did not have enough colors.
I see where Sluckey used all white on his pots. I am going to use White on the normal channel, but I am waiting on purple for the VIB channel, You know purple conducts mojo best. I may use a combo of purple come to think of it. Everything carrying the signal may get purple, and yes I do have some purple spaghetti to cover the shielded cable. :l2:
Truth, I am waiting on some Teflon and my OT which will deliver tomorrow. My progress is going to be much slower and will be in a new thread. I promise you this, the Long Board version is a great idea until you begin loading the thing. I was working for 4 hours and sat back and was only a little over half. Done now, but I still have to put the leads on and solder everything.
It really is a very cool, but involved build. My first ever build was a Marshall 1987 circuit. I applause you for taking this in as your first scratch. I have done many scratch builds now and this one is really involved. Not saying anyone cannot do it, just saying be ready for a lot of work.
-
I did some mocking up and this is what I got so far(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/07886C79-76C6-4F8B-8FF7-AA653C58826B_zpsjbygpj6s.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/07886C79-76C6-4F8B-8FF7-AA653C58826B_zpsjbygpj6s.jpg.html)(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/0F48E69A-AB44-4A2A-87BB-75CA91A74EC8_zpswwvok7lg.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/0F48E69A-AB44-4A2A-87BB-75CA91A74EC8_zpswwvok7lg.jpg.html)(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/B4225DA1-C315-43ED-A0D0-8E0AD3E328DB_zps7a5zf2fq.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/B4225DA1-C315-43ED-A0D0-8E0AD3E328DB_zps7a5zf2fq.jpg.html)(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/DDBCF171-3906-4AC4-B86D-C8E473FBA953_zpsiyojnxx0.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DDBCF171-3906-4AC4-B86D-C8E473FBA953_zpsiyojnxx0.jpg.html)so I started with board placement, then sockets which start 1.5" of edge then every 2". From faceplate to board will give me approx. 1.5". As for tranny I'll keep them like Sluckey's. Suggestions welcome. Oh I can either put cap board inside right next to main turret or dog house it?
-
Question, on long board version you have 330K resistor going to preamps EF86 pin9 and 12ax7 pin 2. What's the reason? It's not in your original and should I do it anyway
-
Question, on long board version you have 330K resistor going to preamps EF86 pin9 and 12ax7 pin 2. What's the reason? It's not in your original and should I do it anyway
Those are 33K. They replace the 68Ks that were on the double input jacks. My single input jacks are wired as high inputs. On the original when you plug into the high jack the 68Ks will be paralleled for a combined resistance of 34K. So I just used a single 33K to replace the two 68Ks. And I moved it to the tube socket rather than leave it on the input jack.
If you will have high and low jacks (total of four) you don't need the resistor at the tube socket.
-
My bad on color code, I am gonna take this next measuring part real slow. I've never scratch built a chassis but I have messed up the occasional stomp enclosure.
-
Need to make and order that 33k value change as well as that 220k on speed pot
-
started center tapping for hole drilling, man this is nerve breaking stuff. Im going to have to use the dog house method fr the main caps. no room for a newbie in their. I misplaced all my grommets :BangHead:
-
started center tapping for hole drilling, man this is nerve breaking stuff. Im going to have to use the dog house method fr the main caps. no room for a newbie in their. I misplaced all my grommets :BangHead:
Anyone know of an inexpensive way to practice chassis drilling? I think I want to build this but I don't want to mess up a $50 chassis while I'm learning.
-
I should have thought of this before... people are selling 9x12 remnants of 0.09" 6061 aluminum on the bay for $6 plus shipping (another $6). That might be expensive for 1, but if they will combine shipping then buy 5. This will give me plenty to practice with and some left over for other projects.
-
I drilled every hole on my chassis from the outside. You can sometimes get into trouble drilling the inside. Most holes were done at the drill press.
I like to use an automatic center punch to mark the hole location. Then I drill a small pilot hole. If this is to be a screw hole, then I use the correct size bit for body or tap size. If it will be a 3/8" or larger hole I enlarge my pilot with a #1 bit, then I switch to a step bit. I highly recommend using a step bit for any holes bigger than screw holes. Greenlee is my choice. That means holes for pots, switches, grommets, sockets, jacks, etc. The step bits are easier to control than a twist bit and do not grab just as the bit breaks through like a twist bit will. Using a 1/2" twist bit to drill a hole for a switch can ruin your day!
Whatever kind of bit you use, always hold the chassis firmly and just apply steady pressure with the press. Don't strong arm the press! This chassis can be kinda awkward to cut on a small table top press. Get a piece of scrap wood about 3/4 x 8" x 30" to go between that small table and the chassis. That will help you maintain control and keep the chassis perpendicular to the drill bit.
Tip for using the step bit. Let's say you're ready to drill the 3/4" holes for the sockets. Wrap a piece of masking tape around the bit to cover up all the steps that are bigger than the 3/4" step that you want to stop on. Do the same for 3/8" holes but only leave the 3/8 and smaller steps exposed. And use a slower speed.
-
:huh: :occasion14: Ok guys, I got some done. Once I drilled that first hole there was no stopping. I did my best and did a quick mock up. I still have to do face plate and order smaller standoff for the main cap and the dog house. I swear I was shaking, I did tap all holes except the Trannies. I have to resize them first then will post. Yes its MIller time, more like Lagunitas
-
Nothing to it man! You just got through drilling over 100 holes on that fiberglass board and that looked good. You're a pro. I'm drinking an Ice House with you.
I think I have the same little drill press you have. Mine is a 25 year old Delta.
-
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/C8E452E0-34B6-42C5-8A23-CA16EC5D6A30_zpsbh9oz1ta.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/C8E452E0-34B6-42C5-8A23-CA16EC5D6A30_zpsbh9oz1ta.jpg.html)(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/DE9ECA79-E8D6-436A-8052-6EE73FFC6634_zpsr2ybt7zr.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DE9ECA79-E8D6-436A-8052-6EE73FFC6634_zpsr2ybt7zr.jpg.html)(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/5573ED9C-C0C6-42DD-A72C-B13719AE642A_zpsgeszizqv.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/5573ED9C-C0C6-42DD-A72C-B13719AE642A_zpsgeszizqv.jpg.html)(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/1DEF3546-81E2-4E3F-8E8C-8FC55526B2A4_zpsuoxiukvy.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/1DEF3546-81E2-4E3F-8E8C-8FC55526B2A4_zpsuoxiukvy.jpg.html)(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/D5116B72-B382-496F-B14C-26052676BAA1_zpsurvehde6.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/D5116B72-B382-496F-B14C-26052676BAA1_zpsurvehde6.jpg.html)(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/C7154B0E-3337-44F0-8B58-500EB3741958_zpse4x2dufi.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/C7154B0E-3337-44F0-8B58-500EB3741958_zpse4x2dufi.jpg.html)i added the missing standoff but need smaller ones and need to drill a hole to pass wires thru. I also cheated and tapped all holes with a very slow speed drill
-
I bought a spring loaded center punch and I have really good step bits that I use on electrical panels. I did cheat and go free hand instead of press.
-
That looks good. Take a break. Dream about your next step. :laugh:
-
Come on now, even when your just testing the lay out, use the rubber grommets, so you don't scrape the PT's or any other wires insolation.
Other wise, looks real good to me!
Brad :icon_biggrin:
-
Looking good. Those 9 pin sockets look real nice all in a row there. Where did you buy those? I will run our of all my nice ones on this build and will need to order some. You guys seem to leave the tape on there longer than me. Do you take the parts back off to remove the tape, or will it slide from under the edge of the parts?
I received my OT and hookup wire I was waiting for. I need to drill my chassis. Strange how we are concerned about different things. I am reusing a Power tranny with short leads I am going to have to add which is a concern and making sure all my resistors are the correct value before I solder the whole board is my largest concern.
Again, really nice work. Thanks for joining with us and sharing your build. In reality, that Doghouse is going to look nice and it will give you more room. That is why I love the last chassis I made. 19 x 8 x 2. Next ones I make are going to be 19 x 8 x 2.5 or maybe even 3". I am not sure yet, but I may have enough room to separate my power tubes allowing me to place my Power Tranny on one corner and the OT on the other.
I did score some nice Bugle Boys EL84. Now I have 3 varieties. I know you have JJ's, but Sluckey never mentioned what he is using.
-
My EL84s and EF86 are JJs. All the 12A?7s are JAN Sylvanias. And the EZ81 is some off brand duck, Mallard or something.
Ed, here a pic of one possible solution for short leads on a PT...
http://home.comcast.net/~seluckey/amps/november/nov_03.jpg (http://home.comcast.net/~seluckey/amps/november/nov_03.jpg)
Guys, double check the under board jumpers before installing the board. I like to verify again after installing all the connecting wires. I use an ohm meter to check for zero ohms between turrets that should have a jumper. I do this from the top side of the board so I'm not actually looking at the jumpers.
-
And the EZ81 is some off brand duck, Mallard or something.
The one in the rear-view pic looks like a Telefunken.
-
The one in the rear-view pic looks like a Telefunken.
Yep, that's right.
-
My EL84s and EF86 are JJs. All the 12A?7s are JAN Sylvanias. And the EZ81 is some off brand duck, Mallard or something.
Ed, here a pic of one possible solution for short leads on a PT...
http://home.comcast.net/~seluckey/amps/november/nov_03.jpg (http://home.comcast.net/~seluckey/amps/november/nov_03.jpg)
Guys, double check the under board jumpers before installing the board. I like to verify again after installing all the connecting wires. I use an ohm meter to check for zero ohms between turrets that should have a jumper. I do this from the top side of the board so I'm not actually looking at the jumpers.
That is a good solution. Are those sag resistors you are using?
-
Are those sag resistors you are using?
Yes, although I rather call them dropping resistors because the voltage was too high.
-
The chassis I'm using (see reply #146) is 20 x 6.5 x 2.5. Got it from watts. I would not go any smaller.
I may go with the 20 x 8 x 2.5 chassis to give my novice building hands a little more room to work. This would also allow me to use 4" wide board material so I could increase the distance between the turrets and use mallory capacitors instead of xicons.
Any reason that I should not do this?
-
I may go with the 20 x 8 x 2.5 chassis to give my novice building hands a little more room to work. This would also allow me to use 4" wide board material so I could increase the distance between the turrets and use mallory capacitors instead of xicons.
Any reason that I should not do this?
You can do that but it's a LOT OF WORK! I would want a more compelling reason than just so I could use M150s. As designed the board will accommodate M150s except for about a half dozen of the 0.1µF caps. M150s have been my go to cap. This is the first project I've used Xicons. Xicons will be my new go to cap.
You did notice that my drill guide is ready to print, tape to a blank board, and drill? How will you widen the board layout to 4"?
-
The chassis I'm using (see reply #146) is 20 x 6.5 x 2.5. Got it from watts. I would not go any smaller.
I may go with the 20 x 8 x 2.5 chassis to give my novice building hands a little more room to work. This would also allow me to use 4" wide board material so I could increase the distance between the turrets and use mallory capacitors instead of xicons.
Any reason that I should not do this?
I used the same drill guide and had no problem using SOZO and Mallory caps. Trick is use the 400v Mallorys. I had Xicons as well, but I have been wanting to use up the Sozo. Doug Hoffmans 50 watt Marshall style builds are considered some of the finest and he uses Xicon. Xicon caps get a bad rap from people who have never used them.
We are a little cap crazy. No one wants to use cermaic because they re too harsh, but everyone is cloning amps that have them inside them, but they make them better by knowing that Silver Mica sound better. :think1:
If you like the tone of the old amp, why use something you know is going to change it? :w2:
-
Hey lego... I've updated the original layout on my website. I've separated the grounds and relabeled them to match the grounding on the long board version. I've also included a ground scheme to show how it's all tied together.
The main board layout and the cap board layout both have minor changes that would require snipping a jumper on each board. Those are the only two pages that have changed. Take a look. I think you'll like it better. These changes make the grounding scheme for your amp look like the grounding scheme on my amp (except for the fact that your caps are all on a separate board).
-
Here are a couple of photos of my board. I will have cab photos next week. I used larger caps than I planned to use up some I have had around. Let me know what you think and who wants to be the first to mod this board?
You may notice I have no ground wires yet. I am planning to build the ground scheme inside the chassis. The ground layout is really nice.. The photo of the iron shows how short my leads are on the Power Tranny. I believe I will be making a single row turret strip to connect. I have found some lead I cut on a previous build and it matches. I could simply add it.
Now its time to layout the chassis for punching and drilling.
-
Hey, that looks familiar!
-
Hey, that looks familiar!
Yes sir! Layout done by one of the best and one I consider a friend. I am just an old hack and am painting by numbers.
The caps fit better than I thought once I was working on it. I am saving the chicklets for my next build and plan to do a Hoffman style board and they will come in handy. I will finish this one first.
I hope you caught up on your chores you neglected while building another silly amp. Are you ever going to grow up? :l2:
-
Hey, that looks familiar!
It appearss you have 3 additional drill holes and I believe I will have one. Are these left from changing from the Doghouse version to the Long Board version?
-
Looks nice!
I see you like red.
Brad :icon_biggrin:
-
How far from the chassis edge did you guys center your 9 pin sockets? They look a tad further away from the edge than I usually do.
Any specific reason to have the Leads from the Output Transformer short? I am considering placing the OT further away since the laminates are vertical on both transformers. I can just put them 90 and the choke at 45 degrees. I am going to place the cap can in a different position. Any reason not to put the cap can inside? Just thinking out loud, but I am trying to decide what I a going to do about the short leads from the PT.
Sluckey, any specific reason for the DPST power switches? Just had them on-hand or am I not seeing them correctly and they are SPST?
-
Looks nice!
I see you like red.
Brad :icon_biggrin:
I am red headed (what is left of it) :laugh: , but this material is fiberglass and I do have a dark red and blond theme working on this one. Dark green is my favorite color, but I built an amp once using a lot of green and it looked sort of plain jane. Your blue really makes a statement. I like it. Yours and Platefire where he used the blue and white.
After seeing Tubegeeks Canada, I thought of your colors and doing a USA amp. Having star knobs and a Flag for grill cloth.
-
It appearss you have 3 additional drill holes and I believe I will have one.
Ha. I was wondering if anyone would notice that. I had the board drilled and was in the process of loading turrets when my Xicons arrived. When I saw how small the Xicon 0.1s were, I made a hasty mod to my board to better accommodate some of those tiny caps. That left me with a few extra holes on the edge near the pots.
How far from the chassis edge did you guys center your 9 pin sockets?
1.25"
Any specific reason to have the Leads from the Output Transformer short?
No. Just keep them away from the preamp circuit.
Any reason not to put the cap can inside?
Not if you have room. Saves making a big hole.
Sluckey, any specific reason for the DPST power switches?
I only had two Carling SPST short bat switches. Those DPDT switches in the power section look like the Carlings from the outside. They actually simplify wiring the line side of the PT. If I had four SPST Carlings I would have used them.
-
I got some reading to catch up I see, Ed I got those ceramic tube holders from TurretBoard.com. Sluckey I'll Check out your updates and make changes. I forgot to order the doghouse still, need to shop around first
-
The cap board was sized to fit under Hoffman's small doghouse. There are a lot of different sizes available so be careful when deciding which one to order. Oh, and you will need short standoff spacers for the board, maybe even 1/8". Scrap pieces of 1/8" turret board make good spacers strips.
(C) Small Fender cap can cover
5.125" L x 3.375" W x 1.375" H.
-
Thanks for adding the update, I'll print out changes today
-
Sluckey, What would be difference then the way Doug does his cap can grounding technique? Tearing shop apart and still cant find darn grommets
-
I'm not sure what you mean. Got a link?
-
My Bad, its the way he does his cap can grounding. He grounds all the Main caps into can then the can is grounded via screwed into chassis.
http://el34world.com/charts/filtercaps.htm (http://el34world.com/charts/filtercaps.htm)
-
That grounding scheme was used on the original 5F6A Bassman amp. That's the way Fender did it on that amp and Doug was just showing you how to do it. The dropping resistors are on the main board.
I personally don't like that ground scheme and will never use it. The main reason, I want the first input filter cap and the one for the screen node to be grounded at the exact same location as the PT HT center tap lead. That Bassman scheme requires a good ground connection through the screws holding the doghouse as well as a good ground connection for the HT centertap lead. It also relies on the chassis to carry all of the B+ current for the amp. I don't like using the chassis for a high current conductor.
Method #2 is what Doug uses for most of his amps and is much better.
-
Thank you that explanation on the grounding, I have been hit twice by high voltage and had EKGs twice, not fun.
-
I got around to cutting face plate and taping it on to chassis. I center punched the plate holes and will drill out. My back ordered pot should be here this week as well as my smaller stand offs and Cap can cover. I'll strip it down,deburr yadda yadda yadda and start assembling. My buddy who just bought a pos twin wants to buy this amp now :l2: (http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/412A4C92-9259-476E-BA32-135EEE167B6A_zpsgornwwua.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/412A4C92-9259-476E-BA32-135EEE167B6A_zpsgornwwua.jpg.html)(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/D356982D-B1F2-4E44-BF8B-DE86C71A15A1_zps2q3744wf.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/D356982D-B1F2-4E44-BF8B-DE86C71A15A1_zps2q3744wf.jpg.html)(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/79AF61D4-8F3E-41E3-BCF2-D082A27211F1_zps5enpye0t.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/79AF61D4-8F3E-41E3-BCF2-D082A27211F1_zps5enpye0t.jpg.html)
-
Ed, on the 9 pin spacing I kinda eyeballed it and made sure I had enough room on both sides. That Grey Mercury looks sweet, I looked at the Mercurys for this build but to $$$.
-
Ed, on the 9 pin spacing I kinda eyeballed it and made sure I had enough room on both sides. That Grey Mercury looks sweet, I looked at the Mercurys for this build but to $$$.
I am not sure why Mercury puts those prices on their website. I assume it is to protect their dealers. Their products cost a premium, but they stand behind them. If you have a problem with a transformer, they don't simply say you did something wrong. IMO, theses things add value. Over the years I have had 3 transformers bad. Two were mercury and were replaced, but you could say since they cost twice as much it is no big deal.
Anyway, the list price on the standup version I have is $215.00 which is 35% jobber and discounts for reordering the transformer cost me $118 shipped which is still high. I got a local amp shop order it for me. :icon_biggrin: I send them a lot of business. They say I am their top salesman.
I don't prefer Mercury for everything. I like Heyboer for vintage Marshall and Marstran (sp?) for High Gain stuff. Hammond simply makes great stuff and I have never used any of their Trannys that I was unhappy with. I just wrote so many people on this and was confirmed this OT the vast majority to get that sparkle. Here is hoping.
So far, this is the most involved build I have ever done, but I have another which is close. I am taking my time on this one and enjoying building it rather than pushing like I usually do. I have put a lot of thought into this and it is coming together nicely.
EDIT- I have had more than 3 Transformers bad, but some were very old and some things I have bought with bad transformers. What I meant is I have had 3 bad upon instillation. Two were replaced by mercury and one simply told me no refunds or replacements. That was a Weber, but I don't blame them. It is their policy and you know it so crying is not allowed.
-
Here are a couple of photos of my board.
Ed AND lego,
I've been busy with my own stuff and not sure how I missed these great pics......somewhere along the line I stopped reading every post
BUT,
WOW, really nice work guys!!
Great informative thread and lots of good eye candy.....no detail has been left out.
Ed, your opinions matter to us, so please don't stop telling us why you do what you do. Even if you don't think it matters,,,, the details are in the details.
-
Opinions and thoughts are very informative, I am hoping to be able to start soldering this coming week after I break it all down and go over it with a fine comb. I spent some time looking a cabinet options, this head is the 2ox6.5x2.5. Total lenght is 21.5 with the side ears, I like the Marshal look but realized this chassis is for upright(tubes up) so I might go for a unfinisihed head like Masrhsall's. Any adive and peoples past choices would be welcome
-
I spent some time looking a cabinet options, this head is the 2ox6.5x2.5. Total lenght is 21.5 with the side ears, I like the Marshal look but realized this chassis is for upright(tubes up) so I might go for a unfinisihed head like Masrhsall's. Any adive and peoples past choices would be welcome
I've been seeing these on Eb*y for a while, and it seems like a good price for good construction....can't vouch for it cause I haven't tried one
http://www.ebay.com/itm/British-style-head-cabinet-guitar-tube-amp-project-for-standard-chassis-/291133135398?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43c8e31a26 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/British-style-head-cabinet-guitar-tube-amp-project-for-standard-chassis-/291133135398?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43c8e31a26)
EDITED__I missed the fact that it says it will only hold a chassis up to 19.5" with tabs....doesn't compute if the total outside width is 23",,,,but there must be something in the way, cause I'm sure the sides aren't made of 2x4's :dontknow:
Looking closer at the zoomed in pic, you can see where there is a "cleat"(?) to mount the front panel......I "imagine" you "could" unscrew and remove the front and back panels and then notch that cleat out to fit your chassis.....but you will also have to modify the front panel control cutout so it doesn't interfere with your controls.
If you ask, he "might" do it for you :dontknow:
-
Wow! I disappear for awhile and a beautiful amplifier is born. Thanks Steve for emailing me about this project and for all you have done to bring it to life. I think I need to take a breather from the studio construction and the day job and build this little baby. This is the second to last amp I wanted in my studio backline. All I will have left will be the hand wired JCM2000 DSL 401. I am really impressed with the layout and the build Steve. Top notch work. Lego4040 it looks like your build is coming out very nicely. I've got the fever again. :BangHead:
-
Glad to see you Barry. This is all your fault! :wink:
-
Yep, I would have to blame Barry. Ever since I saw the darn thing I have not been able to quit thinking about it. I will finish it shortly.
-
:worthy1: I'm not even done with this one and I'm deciding what next. I do my work in my shop desk during breaks but I'm bringing chassis home thus weekend to wire up heaters, that is of coarse sometime after kids soccer/doctors/dentist........ The faceplate fit like a glove too, whew. I have one hole left to drill once cap can comes in. (http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/54FCC001-DBEC-4BB1-8661-AACF5C5C5986_zpsr3yvvgzs.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/54FCC001-DBEC-4BB1-8661-AACF5C5C5986_zpsr3yvvgzs.jpg.html) I'm thinking about shooting back of chassis a color closest to plate. It looks boring now without it
-
:worthy1: I'm not even done with this one and I'm deciding what next. I do my work in my shop desk during breaks but I'm bringing chassis home thus weekend to wire up heaters, that is of coarse sometime after kids soccer/doctors/dentist........ The faceplate fit like a glove too, whew. I have one hole left to drill once cap can comes in. (http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/54FCC001-DBEC-4BB1-8661-AACF5C5C5986_zpsr3yvvgzs.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/54FCC001-DBEC-4BB1-8661-AACF5C5C5986_zpsr3yvvgzs.jpg.html) I'm thinking about shooting back of chassis a color closest to plate. It looks boring now without it
Looking good. If you install the chassis in a cabinet, it will look great. Do the Dynmo Label like Trainwrecks.
I worked on my chassis. Got everything punched and drilled except the faceplate. I need to cut it and put it on. I got tired and I usually stop when I do as I start pushing and don't do as good of a job.
I am looking forward to building the ground scheme and making the buss bar. That is when I get to sit there and work in solitude and that is why I do this stuff.
I was supposed to get my cabinets back from getting them Tolex, but my friend got busy doing trim work to a car. The nerve of that guy. :l2:
I did see them and they are most of the way complete. They look great. I wish I could do Tolex that nice.
-
For the ground bus, did you get those mil-stand offs? I looked at them in eBay again but there was less of a selection this time, I'm trying to come up with an alternative to that style. I never tried tolexing, my father used to reupholstery all our furniture, that was amazing. He could use a sewing machine like no other. I will also look at that labeler.
-
Here's an alternative that works just as well. Look just to the right of the PT...
http://home.comcast.net/~seluckey/amps/hammond/closeup.jpg (http://home.comcast.net/~seluckey/amps/hammond/closeup.jpg)
-
That is a great alternative Sluckey, thanks. That label maker is sweet, do they sell clear labels? I was nervous as he'll cutting that plate and I can't believe I nailed it the first time. I screwed it to a scrap piece of wood and quadruple measured. If anyone is interested in label making powerpopguy over at BYOC created a awesome file theat you use with illustrator programs. Guys are making pro quality labels for their pedals that'll blow your mind. You need laserjet not inkjet, inkjet will run on clear photo decal paper
-
Here's another alternative that works just as well. This one is 17AWG steel wire. 14AWG copper works well too. Only took 5 minutes to build, including time spent looking for the spool of wire and camera setup. :icon_biggrin:
-
I do have a really good brother ptouch label maker
-
Damn Sluckey that's brilliant, are you using those round needle nose pliers? If so what size? Cooper wire I have plenty of, 10,12 even 8awg in my shop.
-
I used 4 1/2" round nose, but you could use a nail or even a screw to form a nice loop. Just make the loops before you bend to shape. I would not use #10 or #12 unless you have a big iron or gun. #14 works well and solder flows good with my Weller, but that #17 steel works great!
Look at this pic... http://home.comcast.net/~seluckey/amps/VAC15/19.jpg (http://home.comcast.net/~seluckey/amps/VAC15/19.jpg)
I used a DYMO label maker with black on clear for those labels. I'm sure Brother will have plenty of clear tape in various sizes and colors.
-
I need to go to Home Depot today :icon_biggrin: we're did you get that steel wire? Wait you mentioned a tracker company I think. I seen that pic, sweet. You used regular printer for the red back plate too you said I believe.
-
So I had the day off yesterday for a Doc appt and figured I would get alot of the amp completed. :cussing: Landlord scheduled to have entire building shut down electrically for maintenence, so nothing got done
-
I just replaced the brilliance switch with a 6 position rotary switch that selects different value caps. Much more useful than the single position ice pick cap. I used the same circuit that I have in my AC15 Lite.
http://home.comcast.net/~seluckey/amps/hammond/hammond_ao39.pdf (http://home.comcast.net/~seluckey/amps/hammond/hammond_ao39.pdf)
-
http://www.bigdguitars.com/install.html (http://www.bigdguitars.com/install.html)
http://www.bigdguitars.com/varitone.html (http://www.bigdguitars.com/varitone.html)
Sluckey this is what I have for a guitar I never finished, do you think I could use this? Or do I still need to put those resistors
-
So I had a 12 position rotary on hand, guess what I did? You guessed it, I installed a 12 different values, well actually 11, one remains stick. May be overkill, but so.
I am actually getting a good bit done. I am at the enjoyable phase as my chassis is complete. I am installing my iron. Won't be long till I am crying and complaining and troubleshooting. :l2: I need to get some photos. I have my cabinets and they look great.
-
Some porn for ya.
-
Here are a couple more. Like I said, getting close to completed amp.
-
NICE!!!
So that's what an amp's supposed to look like? :thumbsup:
-
So I had a 12 position rotary on hand,
Looks like a cap Gatling gun. :laugh:
Looks real good Ed! Cab too!
Brad :icon_biggrin:
-
Lego, without seeing a schematic I cannot say about that Tele switch. Here's the switch I used. You can eliminate those resistors by using this MBB (shorting) switch. I think even Radio Shack has these switches.
http://www.tubesandmore.com/products/P-H392 (http://www.tubesandmore.com/products/P-H392)
-
Ed, whatcha gonna do with that ninth tube socket???
-
NICE!!!
So that's what an amp's supposed to look like? :thumbsup:
My favorite amp is the 62 bassman you see behind, I also have the matching cabinet. I have a 3 old 2, 12 bassman cabs. Love the tone of them. That cab has altec speakers in it, the original has the original speakers. I cannot remember, they may be utahs. Anyway, I will be using a Celestion Blue in this cab and I built it a tad wide to give me more resonance in a closed back. I made the backs removable for 1/3, 2/3 rd open back. There is 2 3" roundl removable ports on the front.
Since speakers and cabinets change/create the majority of the tone I like to have options. :icon_biggrin:
This build has flowed nicely with Sluckey cutting the path. Made it easy. I have one thing to workaround and that is putting the cap inside. SInce My chassis is 8" deep I shouldn't have any trouble.
Thanks for the kind words Brad. See what your help over the past couple of years has done. Really a lot of folks here on this forum. I could have never built anything as nice as this if I had not became a part of this forum. I would still be modding Marshalls and playing with radios.
Old Marshall circuits are simple compared to this thing. I am still looking at the tremolo/vibrato schematic and scratching my head. I remember how good it sounded. I am trying to understand it better as I have a side build going in a Super Reverb chassis and I am thinking of putting this in the 63 Vibroverb circuit.
Back to work.
-
Ed, whatcha gonna do with that ninth tube socket???
I have not completely decided. I was thinking maybe 1 tube reverb. That is why I wanted to put the main filter cap inside. I am not going to do anything with it until it get the amp running stock. In reality, it will probably never be used. I do that often as it never hurts anything to have it, but it is awful hard to get one in there if you did not do it in the beginning.
What do you like best? I am open to suggestions. I don't think it needs an overdrive, but always thought a reverb would be nice in one of these. Please make suggestions.
-
BTW, the open tube will be between the ef86 and the PI on the normal channel. I don't think this will cause any problems and will be the best location for potential future use. I really don't see any advantages of doing anything with the Vibrato channel. I don't think the results would be favorable.
If I do use it, it will have to be simple. I need to see how much room I have when the stock amp is buttoned up. I am not completely against a loop. I believe I will have enough room for a loop or the 1 tube reverb.
Thoughts?
-
Ed, I'm concerned about the location of your OT. It's right on top of the input jacks! That's courting with danger. The highest signal level in the amp is only an inch away from the lowest level signal in the amp.
If it were mine, I'd shift the choke and OT closer to the PT. Many successful amps (Plexi for example) have the OT mounted very close to the PT. I can't find any examples where the OT leads are close to the input jacks.
-
Ed, I'm concerned about the location of your OT. It's right on top of the input jacks! That's courting with danger. The highest signal level in the amp is only an inch away from the lowest level signal in the amp.
If it were mine, I'd shift the choke and OT closer to the PT. Many successful amps (Plexi for example) have the OT mounted very close to the PT. I can't find any examples where the OT leads are close to the input jacks.
Well, it is certainly no problem to move it at this point. I did not consider that, but the photo shows it clearly. Marshall designs do not have the input jacks so close to the center.
Great catch as I was thinking about other things and the last thing on my mind was the location on the inputs. My mind naturally considered them all the way to the right. I will get me a little plug. I will make it not noticeable as this is the nicest work I have ever done.
You think if I move it another 2 to 2.5 inches it will be good? Is the wires or the transformer itself? If the wires are the problem, I could use some mini conduit I use when I have 2 chassis and bring the OT wire into the chassis in an ideal location.
I am looking at a amp book I have and I cannot find an example done this way, but I cannot really find a layout like this one.
I just checked and I have a build where the OT is actually next to the PT with the choke last. I do have a shield between them, but I removed it and noticed no differences in voltages or sound.
Now to more important stuff. :l2:
What would you do in a Vox with a whole 9 pin? :think1:
-
Ed, this is how I was gonna do my iron...
(http://www.ceriatone.com/images/completeAmpsPic/JTM50Amp/f1B.jpg)
But remember, I scrounged from my old Lightning. I would have had to splice too many leads so I finally just decided to keep the three pieces in the same layout as the Lightning.
Putting the OT right next to the PT has been successful with a lot of amps, including high end hifi stuff, such as this Dynaco Mark III...
(http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTIwMFgxNjAw/z/eAcAAOxyYANTZw4-/$_57.JPG)
Will your choke fit inside the chassis? If so, I would consider mounting it on the end right next to your dual can cap. Then rotate the OT 90° and about an inch away from the PT. Otherwise just mount like the Marshall clone shown above.
I don't have any ideas for the extra tube.
-
Thanks for that tip Sluckey, I will look for it at RS around the corner. Ed those are beautiful , is that a standard Marshall plan?
-
Lego, nothing about any of this build is standard. If you are speaking of the cabinets, the interior size of the speaker cab is exactly 1/2 of a old bassman cab turned 90 degrees. The headbox is much deeper since my chassis is 8". I made the exterior of the cabinets look short, wide and deep to give it a contemporary look and used the colors to maintain a early 60's look since the amp is a 60's design. Basically I have a marshall layout and amp look, a Vox circuit and a Fender cabinet and colors design. I will be using Fender cream knobs.
Sluckey, thanks for the mention of the Dynaco. I did not look at them I only looked at my marshalls with pancake pt's. I have 3 dynacos and they are basically hum free. Great design. I will follow the Dynaco. I cannot get the Choke inside. My intention if I decide to do it is put a reverb in it. I do not know if I will. I have put a small board on top of the chassis and made a loop, but I don't know what I will like.
First thing is play the amp stock. I would just like some ideas because after a loop and a reverb, I am out of ideas since I have never done much with a EF86. Merlin writes a lot about them. Maybe I can get an idea there.
-
Who is this Merlin I hear about from time to time? Is he some real amp guru magician? I must look him up on google
-
Who is this Merlin
http://www.valvewizard.co.uk/ (http://www.valvewizard.co.uk/)
-
I just replaced the brilliance switch with a 6 position rotary switch that selects different value caps. Much more useful than the single position ice pick cap. I used the same circuit that I have in my AC15 Lite.
http://home.comcast.net/~seluckey/amps/hammond/hammond_ao39.pdf (http://home.comcast.net/~seluckey/amps/hammond/hammond_ao39.pdf)
Sluckey, without pulling the .01uf (C3) off the board of the build, using this switch on the Vox layout you would never have a stock value unless you used a .1uf on one of the positions or unless you could switch the switch on and off. Am I thinking correctly?
I hope I do not have this wrong, but I place a connection, no cap, that I plan to have straight up. Sort of like it is stock and right is bright getting less bright the more your turn which is only preference.
-
Sluckey, without pulling the .01uf (C3) off the board of the build, using this switch on the Vox layout you would never have a stock value unless you used a .1uf on one of the positions or unless you could switch the switch on and off. Am I thinking correctly?
You don't have to use a .1 cap. Leave the .01µF on the board. Connect the two wires from the rotary switch to the same places you would normally connect the Brilliance switch. Use a piece of wire for the cap in the first position. Use a 220pF for the cap in the last position. This will give you stock values when the rotary switch is in either extreme position. See pic...
EDIT... Turning the switch clockwise moves the switch wiper in my schematic down, selecting smaller and smaller caps, and making the amp brighter and brighter. Guess what? I wired my switch backwards! :laugh:
-
Sluckey, without pulling the .01uf (C3) off the board of the build, using this switch on the Vox layout you would never have a stock value unless you used a .1uf on one of the positions or unless you could switch the switch on and off. Am I thinking correctly?
You don't have to use a .1 cap. Leave the .01µF on the board. Connect the two wires from the rotary switch to the same places you would normally connect the Brilliance switch. Use a piece of wire for the cap in the first position. Use a 220pF for the cap in the last position. This will give you stock values when the rotary switch is in either extreme position. See pic...
EDIT... Turning the switch clockwise moves the switch wiper in my schematic down, selecting smaller and smaller caps, and making the amp brighter and brighter. Guess what? I wired my switch backwards! :laugh:
That is how I wired my gatlin gun. I have one wire and 11 different values. 2 of them actually increase bass. Not really brilliance. The first position to the right is the brightest, to the left is darkest which is darker than stock. I hope it doesn't get flabby as I was thinking single coil bridge. It is real easy to play with tho since it only has 1 nut and 2 wires to remove it.
Sluckey, unless you tell people no one would ever think of it being backwards. Maybe mine is backwards.
-
2 of them actually increase bass. Not really brilliance. The first position to the right is the brightest, to the left is darkest which is darker than stock.
That can't happen. The stock .01µF will be the darkest. The rotary switch is putting caps in SERIES with the stock .01µF which can only DECREASE the value of the total capacitance, making the tone brighter than the stock cap.
-
BTW, I used a pair of shoulder washers with my rotary switch since it was going in a 1/2" hole.
-
Sluckey, unless you tell people no one would ever think of it being backwards. Maybe mine is backwards.
It's not backwards. Well at least to a south paw like me.
Brad :laugh:
-
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/C1137B65-AF2F-4229-AA94-8CA0F60D1959_zpsuushnhco.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/C1137B65-AF2F-4229-AA94-8CA0F60D1959_zpsuushnhco.jpg.html)(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/8DA5947F-F345-46CF-B171-1A060401A856_zpsiftly6gq.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/8DA5947F-F345-46CF-B171-1A060401A856_zpsiftly6gq.jpg.html)
Sluckey, this is the varitone that i have but wont use. Its not MBB and values are not right but my question is what would the pupose of the inductor be? Also here are my heater wires done for the most part, They look good enough? Are they twisted enough
-
BTW, I used a pair of shoulder washers with my rotary switch since it was going in a 1/2" hole.
hey, those look familiar
http://hoffmanamps.com/MyStore/catalog/parts2.htm (http://hoffmanamps.com/MyStore/catalog/parts2.htm)
(http://hoffmanamps.com/MyStore/catalog/images/IMG_7014_small.jpg)
-
2 of them actually increase bass. Not really brilliance. The first position to the right is the brightest, to the left is darkest which is darker than stock.
That can't happen. The stock .01µF will be the darkest. The rotary switch is putting caps in SERIES with the stock .01µF which can only DECREASE the value of the total capacitance, making the tone brighter than the stock cap.
Yep, this is true. If they were in parallel, it would not be true. If it were a 2 pole, 12 position switch could it be done?
-
BTW, I used a pair of shoulder washers with my rotary switch since it was going in a 1/2" hole.
Dang it, I had my switch when I drilled my hole. I do have a stupid hole above the input jacks. :BangHead:
-
Deleted
-
Warning: I usually ask really dumb questions!
Looking at the power supply in sluckey's schematic, why is node D at significantly lower voltage than B and C? It looks like B, C and D are all dropped across a 22K resistor from the 336V plate voltage, so I don't understand why node D is about 80V lower than B and C.
Which schematic are you referring to? I do not see any voltage references.
-
Sluckey,
What did you end up with plate voltages on the EL34's. Are you fairly close to 310?
-
Deleted
-
Which schematic are you referring to? I do not see any voltage references.
On sluckey's homepage where he has all of his AC15 build docs; schematic links at the bottom of this page:
http://home.comcast.net/~seluckey/amps/VAC15/ac15.htm (http://home.comcast.net/~seluckey/amps/VAC15/ac15.htm)
Glad you posted this. I was not aware Sluckey had included all those voltage readings. I would assume since node D is supplying all of the wiggle channel, the drop would be due to loading. If you look at the plate reading of v5 a and b, they are consistent with the voltage at node D. Node D is providing the whole Vibrato/Tremolo channel.
Just my guess.
-
Looking at the power supply in sluckey's schematic, why is node D at significantly lower voltage than B and C? It looks like B, C and D are all dropped across a 22K resistor from the 336V plate voltage, so I don't understand why node D is about 80V lower than B and C.
Nodes B and C only supply one tube each. Node D supplies three tube and has a much higher current load, therefore more voltage dropped across it's 22K.
-
Lego, inductors can be used in tone circuits just as capacitors can. Without seeing a schematic I can't be more specific. Your heaters look fine. I don't subscribe to the idea of "20 twists per inch". :icon_biggrin:
-
What did you end up with plate voltages on the EL34's. Are you fairly close to 310?
331v. Don't you have voltages on your visio drawing?
-
Thanks Sluckey, I hit my local RS for that MBB switch and they only had the non grounding one, Looks like I will order that and see what caps I don't have on hand. Question on your preamp tubes, you have the 330k on the inputs, did you add them there to save space on the turret board or was this something added after the board was designed. I can't get time to work on this lately and Jonesing.
-
What did you end up with plate voltages on the EL34's. Are you fairly close to 310?
331v. Don't you have voltages on your visio drawing?
Probably do, just am not at home where that information is. I looked at the one linked to answer g-man's question. Never considered the voltages after you told me you had 350 coming off the rectifier. Figured I would get my own after I was up and running. Good to know you have them already as I will have something to compare mine to. I believe you gave me a version after you changed the series resistor on the speed pot.
To be truthful, I just sunk in my head the choke location. I have been off building and not thinking.
-
Question on your preamp tubes, you have the 330k on the inputs, did you add them there to save space on the turret board or was this something added after the board was designed.
I put those resistors on the board in a couple amps I built several years ago, but no more. If I have hi/lo inputs, I will use 68Ks and mount them directly to the input jacks, just like on the layout you used. If I only have a single input jack, I always mount a 33K resistor directly to the socket, just like on the layout I used. I never even consider putting them on the board any longer.
-
... I just sunk in my head the choke location. I have been off building and not thinking.
So where did you mount the choke? And the OT?
-
... I just sunk in my head the choke location. I have been off building and not thinking.
So where did you mount the choke? And the OT?
I have not done it yet. I am sure I am going to do it like the JTM 45. I meant the choke location in the circuit. I got sidetracked. I was hoping to finish this weekend, but noooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo. I had to put up some damn curtains. :l2:
-
2 of them actually increase bass. Not really brilliance. The first position to the right is the brightest, to the left is darkest which is darker than stock.
That can't happen. The stock .01µF will be the darkest. The rotary switch is putting caps in SERIES with the stock .01µF which can only DECREASE the value of the total capacitance, making the tone brighter than the stock cap.
Yep, this is true. If they were in parallel, it would not be true. If it were a 2 pole, 12 position switch could it be done?
Ed, you can easily do this with the switch you have. Just put 12 caps on the switch, maybe ranging from 0.1µF all the way down to 220pF. ***DO NOT USE A JUMPER WIRE IN ANY POSITION*** THERE MUST BE A CAP FOR EVERY SWITCH POSITION.
Now replace the .01µF on the board with a jumper wire. Now you can switch above and below the stock .01µF value.
-
2 of them actually increase bass. Not really brilliance. The first position to the right is the brightest, to the left is darkest which is darker than stock.
That can't happen. The stock .01µF will be the darkest. The rotary switch is putting caps in SERIES with the stock .01µF which can only DECREASE the value of the total capacitance, making the tone brighter than the stock cap.
Yep, this is true. If they were in parallel, it would not be true. If it were a 2 pole, 12 position switch could it be done?
Ed, you can easily do this with the switch you have. Just put 12 caps on the switch, maybe ranging from 0.1µF all the way down to 220pF. ***DO NOT USE A JUMPER WIRE IN ANY POSITION*** THERE MUST BE A CAP FOR EVERY SWITCH POSITION.
Now replace the .01µF on the board with a jumper wire. Now you can switch above and below the stock .01µF value.
Damn Dude, you are the man. I will just replace the straight wire on the switch which is in the most upward position with the .01uf on the board and vice versa. Anybody ever tell you you think too much. Thanks!!! :worthy1:
This thread has gotten INSANE!
-
I've updated the schematic on my website to include the 6 position Brilliance switch option. Ed, I know yours will be different. You may want to get some Visio practice while recovering?
Any progress from you guys?
-
Sluckey,
I just want to voice how much I appreciate your contributions, knowledge and generousity on this forum.
You've got a wealth of information, and an abundance of great perspective and common sense.
Your help is an ongoing gift that makes this forum a superb place to be.
BTW, I really like your personal website. Very well done & the visio schematic and layout information is second to none.
THANKS! With respect, Tubenit
-
Jeff, thanks for the kind words. You really have a gift with words.
-
I've updated the schematic on my website to include the 6 position Brilliance switch option. Ed, I know yours will be different. You may want to get some Visio practice while recovering?
Any progress from you guys?
I will do. They have changed my surgery and now we have mentioned it. No problem at all. It will be June 11, was scheduled for May 27th, but now it will be in the hospital. Guys, I mentioned to Sluckey I am having a disk replacement in my neck for those who noticed Sluckey mentioned recovery. He was nice enough to send me some things to focus on.
I have not made any more progress. Remember, I am not retired like some people I know. :icon_biggrin: Lately I can only work in short periods and when I get home from work I am not able to work on my projects. When I get tired I have more pain and I have to relax. Weekends are a different story tho and I will be at it again this Saturday morning.
I will have a lot of Visio work to do once I figure out what I am going to do with the extra tube. I did see a cascaded EF86 to a 12Ax7 that looked interesting, but I remember the normal channel well and I really like it stock. Anyway, I have a 2 position footswitch and I plan to use one for the front combined with a switch on back to jump the channels and the other for on off tremolo.
I am really enjoying this build and especially the ground scheme. I know you said yours was noise free, but I think I am going to elevate the heaters just because I have never done it. I did make a DC heater supply lately. I attached it here. I got off guitarnuts.com site. His amp is actually a very cool, but I don't care for the loop connection, but the design is very good. I put it into a Deluxe Reverb Ab763 which was a tad noisy and it is quiet. The only thing is I have 5.8, like he got for the voltage. Wondering if different diodes would make a difference? What do you think. think the circuit can be redesigned to get the voltage up to 6.8 or so?
-
Sluckey,
I know this is nitpicking, but I want to get my plate voltage down between 300-310. Is there a problem with putting a dropping resistor between the dual 16uf can and running the choke after? Also, what would be your guess as to the size resistance?
I noticed the voltages you have are just a bit above I am sure due to wall current, but they are up throughout the entire circuit. If you were to do this where would place the resistor?
-
I would not bother with dc heaters or elevating the heaters for this amp. But, I don't understand why the dc voltage would only be 5.8VDC with the bridge circuit you posted. 6.3VAC into a bridge should give 8.9V unloaded. Surely the filaments are not pulling that 8.9V down to 5.8V. I suspect something may not be wired correctly?
====================================
About dropping the B+... BUILD IT FIRST!
Leave the choke right where it is. Put the dropping resistor between the rectifier V8 pin 3 and the STBY switch. You may even have room to mount the resistor directly on the socket for V8.
Now, you need to build the circuit IAW the schematic first so you'll know exactly what your voltages are. Then you will know how much you want to drop the voltage. Then do the math and add the appropriate size resistor.
Here's how to do it using my voltage readings as an example. My B+ into the filter is currently 350v and let's say I want to drop it to 325V (like the original).
Step 1. Determine how much total B+ current you have. This is very easy to do. Just use two gator clip leads to connect a 1Ω resistor across the STBY switch. Measure the millivolt drop directly across that resistor. IN my amp, I have exactly 100mV. That means there is 100mA (0.1A) flowing thru that 1Ω resistor and that is the total B+ current drawn by my amp at idle.
Step 2. Do the math. I want a resistor that will drop 25V and there will be 100mA flowing through it. So, R = E/I, R = 25V/0.1A, R = 250Ω. And the power dissipated by that resistor will be P = EI, P = 25V x 0.1A, P = 2.5W. Double that for safety so you would use a 5 Watt resistor. I'd be more comfortable using a 10 watter.
So, in my example, I need a 250Ω 10W resistor to drop my B+ from 350V to 325V. Now just unclip the 1Ω resistor and clip in the 250Ω resistor to check voltages before you actually solder anything.
Don't throw this info away! You might need it some day. Did I say, BUILD IT FIRST? If not, I meant to. :icon_biggrin:
-
I would not bother with dc heaters or elevating the heaters for this amp. But, I don't understand why the dc voltage would only be 5.8VDC with the bridge circuit you posted. 6.3VAC into a bridge should give 8.9V unloaded. Surely the filaments are not pulling that 8.9V down to 5.8V. I suspect something may not be wired correctly?
====================================
About dropping the B+... BUILD IT FIRST!
Leave the choke right where it is. Put the dropping resistor between the rectifier V8 pin 3 and the STBY switch. You may even have room to mount the resistor directly on the socket for V8.
Now, you need to build the circuit IAW the schematic first so you'll know exactly what your voltages are. Then you will know how much you want to drop the voltage. Then do the math and add the appropriate size resistor.
Here's how to do it using my voltage readings as an example. My B+ into the filter is currently 350v and let's say I want to drop it to 325V (like the original).
Step 1. Determine how much total B+ current you have. This is very easy to do. Just use two gator clip leads to connect a 1Ω resistor across the STBY switch. Measure the millivolt drop directly across that resistor. IN my amp, I have exactly 100mV. That means there is 100mA (0.1A) flowing thru that 1Ω resistor and that is the total B+ current drawn by my amp at idle.
Step 2. Do the math. I want a resistor that will drop 25V and there will be 100mA flowing through it. So, R = E/I, R = 25V/0.1A, R = 250Ω. And the power dissipated by that resistor will be P = EI, P = 25V x 0.1A, P = 2.5W. Double that for safety so you would use a 5 Watt resistor. I'd be more comfortable using a 10 watter.
So, in my example, I need a 250Ω 10W resistor to drop my B+ from 350V to 325V. Now just unclip the 1Ω resistor and clip in the 250Ω resistor to check voltages before you actually solder anything.
Don't throw this info away! You might need it some day. Did I say, BUILD IT FIRST? If not, I meant to. :icon_biggrin:
Didn't you mean to say to build it first. I was planning to build it first and test everything and even play it a tad, but if you want me to go ahead and do this first I will. :laugh:
I have a electronic notebook I keep all them math stuff in. This one is already put in-place. I have a couple of chapters with HBP's math. This will be good for me to experiment with.
Here is question. I'll bet you knew one was coming. Why would you drop the voltage prior to the first cap on the B+ where I saw on one of your builds you dropped using 2 on the HT? What is the difference in the 2 ways?
Also, what wattage for the 1 ohm? Since you are really not dropping any voltage a 1/2 watt would be plenty. I have DALE 1 watters I normally use. This is fine, right?
Also, this will have to be after the build as I don't just keep a pile of 10 watt resistors laying around, however I know I have a 250ohm/10 watt. Fairly common size, but isn't 10 watt extreme or are you feeling a little Matchless. Just kidding, I understand the 10 watt. It will be much cooler.
BTW, are you sure I shouldn't build this first, then do the dropping.
-
Im here, I got things rolling again. I was reading your reply on Eds .o1 cap situation. I got two pics Ill post of my progress, on hand I have the 220pf, 560pf,.002uf, .0047uf and a .001uf with voltages for this, that ok? Ill do what you told Ed to do first on board and add that value to the switch alon with others
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/D0386E69-5A2B-4C8B-AA9C-990380CB4C15_zpscani1kdw.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/D0386E69-5A2B-4C8B-AA9C-990380CB4C15_zpscani1kdw.jpg.html)
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/26449399-bcdc-4d16-a4e2-193a017cd73f_zpsbb0273db.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/26449399-bcdc-4d16-a4e2-193a017cd73f_zpsbb0273db.jpg.html)
Now as I waited for my slow internet to upload these pics I was looking at the optional tone switch, dont you want the .01 on board then add the others in series with the switch?
-
Lego,
With the cap values you are using and the switch, you will be in series and yes you will leave the .01uf on the board.
Sluckey was explaining to me how to use my 12 position switch to have a overall cap value over .01uf. That is why he mentioned removing it from the board. The reason is because any cap you put in series will not increase the capacitance above the smallest in the series. Therefore, if I wanted to make a selectable value above .01, for instance .1 it would be necessary for me to not have a smaller value in series with it. Replacing the cap on the board with a jumper removes a series connection and just uses what is selected on the switch.
I hope this is not confusing. If your caps are to be series, leave the one on the board.
-
Why would you drop the voltage prior to the first cap on the B+ where I saw on one of your builds you dropped using 2 on the HT? What is the difference in the 2 ways?
There's really no difference between the two methods. But, that was a special case and there were two reasons for using 2 resistors on the HT leads rather than a single resistor on the B+ lead.
#1. The B+ was way too high. That amp used iron salvaged from an old Fisher hifi amp. Had to be dropped.
#2. The PT leads were very short. I also had to use a terminal strip for the PT leads and branch out from there. Those resistors fit that layout fine.
#C. Those resistors just happened to be 250Ω 7W and I had a butt load of them. They got the voltage where I wanted it so I quit experimenting and I never looked back.
BTW, I was never happy with using any dropping resistors. That amp got a 'correct' PT shortly after that pic was posted on my website. Notice those resistors were not on my schematic?
Also, what wattage for the 1 ohm? Since you are really not dropping any voltage a 1/2 watt would be plenty. I have DALE 1 watters I normally use. This is fine, right?
Do the math. (.1 x .1)/1=.01W. Double that for safety. So use a .02 watt resistor.
BTW, are you sure I shouldn't build this first, then do the dropping.
Not really sure, but it's raining and I have a cold case of IceHouse. I'll get back to you on that one!
-
Why would you drop the voltage prior to the first cap on the B+ where I saw on one of your builds you dropped using 2 on the HT? What is the difference in the 2 ways?
There's really no difference between the two methods. But, that was a special case and there were two reasons for using 2 resistors on the HT leads rather than a single resistor on the B+ lead.
#1. The B+ was way too high. That amp used iron salvaged from an old Fisher hifi amp. Had to be dropped.
#2. The PT leads were very short. I also had to use a terminal strip for the PT leads and branch out from there. Those resistors fit that layout fine.
#C. Those resistors just happened to be 250Ω 7W and I had a butt load of them. They got the voltage where I wanted it so I quit experimenting and I never looked back.
BTW, I was never happy with using any dropping resistors. That amp got a 'correct' PT shortly after that pic was posted on my website. Notice those resistors were not on my schematic?
Also, what wattage for the 1 ohm? Since you are really not dropping any voltage a 1/2 watt would be plenty. I have DALE 1 watters I normally use. This is fine, right?
Do the math. (.1 x .1)/1=.01W. Double that for safety. So use a .02 watt resistor.
BTW, are you sure I shouldn't build this first, then do the dropping.
Not really sure, but it's raining and I have a cold case of IceHouse. I'll get back to you on that one!
If I were to do the math, it would have been based on your findings of 100ma and not mine. With that Icehouse philosophy I could just throw a 250ohm resistor across the standby. Have another, it's gonna get good.
I actually was thinking about getting an Edcor Tranny (325-0-325) without a 5v tap and use the Hammond for another project. Then I saw a better one for my other project. Dropping this small amount is no big deal IMO.
I have done it by increasing resistance in the B+ rail, what is the issue with adding another resistor? I have an amp I have done this to. Is this a problem?
-
Thanks, sometimes I gotta chew on this info for a while, Series/parallel stuff that is.
-
I have done it by increasing resistance in the B+ rail, what is the issue with adding another resistor? I have an amp I have done this to. Is this a problem?
Huh??? That's exactly what I've been talking about.
-
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/9f41e925-8ea3-4b9c-9b7c-72fe608723d7_zps45c4ab38.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/9f41e925-8ea3-4b9c-9b7c-72fe608723d7_zps45c4ab38.jpg.html) switch wired up
-
I have done it by increasing resistance in the B+ rail, what is the issue with adding another resistor? I have an amp I have done this to. Is this a problem?
Huh??? That's exactly what I've been talking about.
Yes, I meant I moved the choke wires down and put a dropping resistor between the caps in a 5F4 build. Originally, I asked about doing this and you said you would put it across the standby switch.
I was asking out of curiosity why the preference of the location over between the caps with the choke after the second cap. Is there a reason you prefer the choke between the filter caps and not a resistor?
-
Originally, I asked about doing this and you said you would put it across the standby switch.
I did not say that. I said "Leave the choke right where it is. Put the dropping resistor between the rectifier V8 pin 3 and the STBY switch. You may even have room to mount the resistor directly on the socket for V8."
The only reason I've mentioned putting a 1Ω or 250Ω resistor ACROSS the STBY switch using gator clips was for ease of testing. You don't have to do any soldering to do the testing. Of course the STBY switch would have to be in the open position.
Is there a reason you prefer the choke between the filter caps and not a resistor?
Absolutely. Cap-choke-cap is the classic pi filter. It has much better filtering that cap-resistor-cap. If you move the position of that choke you may change the characteristic sound of the amp.
-
Originally, I asked about doing this and you said you would put it across the standby switch.
I did not say that. I said "Leave the choke right where it is. Put the dropping resistor between the rectifier V8 pin 3 and the STBY switch. You may even have room to mount the resistor directly on the socket for V8."
The only reason I've mentioned putting a 1Ω or 250Ω resistor ACROSS the STBY switch using gator clips was for ease of testing. You don't have to do any soldering to do the testing. Of course the STBY switch would have to be in the open position.
Is there a reason you prefer the choke between the filter caps and not a resistor?
Absolutely. Cap-choke-cap is the classic pi filter. It has much better filtering that cap-resistor-cap. If you move the position of that choke you may change the characteristic sound of the amp.
I said across the standby. I get it now. I was asking out of concern for damage to my other amp, the 5f4. I have that amp Cap-resistor-cap-choke right now just messing around to see what an older super may sound like. I plan to put it back, but I was concerned I may be doing damage.
Yes, I only quoted you partially correct and if I decide to drop any voltage AFTER GETTING THE AMP RUNNING, you can bet your sweet bippy I will test it ACROSS the switch and them find a good place to mount it. Maybe I will have room right at pin 8.
I promise to not misquote you till the next time. :l2:
-
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/9f41e925-8ea3-4b9c-9b7c-72fe608723d7_zps45c4ab38.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/9f41e925-8ea3-4b9c-9b7c-72fe608723d7_zps45c4ab38.jpg.html) switch wired up
Lego,
Look at Sluckeys schematic closely. You will see that only 2 wires are needed. One coming into the switch and another leaving the combined caps. IOW, you can connect all the caps together with one wire and you will not have to make as many connections to your board. When you turn the switch it will connect to different caps. I wish I had a photo, but look at the schematic and you will see one wire. What I did was make a put bus wire around a 3/4 socket and twist it. making a round loop. Them I cut it making a semi-circle. Connected all the caps to this making a frame to which one wire can be connected.
In one of Sluckey's amps you can see how he has done it. Mine is the same way, it just has a lot of caps. Look at Sluckeys Hammond build photos and you will see it.
You may want to get the caps closer to the switch. I am not sure how much room you will have between the switch and the board.
-
Ed,
Please put down the Percoset and Jack Daniels.......they are taking a toll :l2:
As marvelously entertaining as this is, I am having trouble keeping up....so I can only imagine how lego feels.
:angel
I promise to not misquote you till the next time. :l2:
:l3:
...........poor sluckey.....he's a saint
-
Ed,
Please put down the Percoset and Jack Daniels.......they are taking a toll :l2:
As marvelously entertaining as this is, I am having trouble keeping up....so I can only imagine how lego feels.
:angel
I promise to not misquote you till the next time. :l2:
:l3:
...........poor sluckey.....he's a saint
How true. None of either I must admit. On the other hand someone has a case of Icehouse. I ain't mentioning no names.
Sorry Lego, I am not helping so I will get out of the way.
-
Sorry Lego, I am not helping so I will get out of the way.
Now, now.....I'm not the fun police
PLEASE continue....sorry for the interruption :wink:
This thread's already 10 pages long.....why stop now?
:angel
-
Lego, Will your switch fit your chassis? I know it would not fit my chassis. You may have to put the caps very close to the switch body. I'm gonna attach a couple pics showing how I did it. And a little explanation too...
I used a 2 pole 6 position switch. You really only need one pole but those 7 contacts for the second pole will come in handy. Look at the Visio drawing. You'll see that one pole of the switch has gold colored lugs. The other pole has silver colored lugs. I strapped all seven of the silver lugs together so it's just like one buss. Notice that one gold lug is also connected to all the silver lugs. Now just connect the 5 caps to the switch as shown, keeping the body of the caps close to the body of the switch. You will need to use some insulating spaghetti on some cap leads because they will be touching other leads. (I used red because it was laying on the bench. Ed, you should use purple :icon_biggrin: ).
Finally, connect the gold wiper to the VOL control and connect the silver wiper to the board. This switch layout agrees with the switch schematic I posted earlier and I've also included a photo of my switch.
-
:l4: that's too funny. I prefer Xanax and Jim Beam myself. I'm getting behind and loosing where I was in this build lately cause of work. I have a few questions, Sluckey you changed the 220k on the speed control, was that to ? Also I see you just used a 1 ohm/3watt resistor to each pin 3 on the power tubes, I like that, I think I'll do that. Where did you put your standby switch? I know it comes off pin 8 on rectifier, I'm reading Merlin and wondering exactly what you did. Bless your patience
-
Damn that was my other question, the MBB, does that mean non grounding or grounding? Thanks for the heads up, I did not even check that :BangHead: I'm getting ancy and want to finish
-
That looks just like the switch I got at RS but I wasn't sure if non grounding was right one
-
Found your link for the switch, will order w new caps :thumbsup:
-
On the other hand someone has a case of Icehouse. I ain't mentioning no names.
Ugh, OK. Ed, I'm baaaack. Now what was it you wanted to discuss? :violent1:
:laugh:
-
Sluckey you changed the 220k on the speed control, was that to ? ...Where did you put your standby switch?
I originally used a 100K. But the oscillator would drop out when approaching the fast limit. Changing to 220K prevented the dropout. It also means the top speed is reduced slightly, not enough to be concerned about.
My standby switch is exactly halfway between my Power switch and the pilot lamp.
-
On the other hand someone has a case of Icehouse. I ain't mentioning no names.
Ugh, OK. Ed, I'm baaaack. Now what was it you wanted to discuss? :violent1:
:laugh:
I am done for the evening, but glad you thought of me. I am tired and relaxing, but I will be back to you soon. You know I am a sponge. Have a great evening and have fun. You deserve it.
Have another one.
-
Thanks, I'm multitasking here. Watching Bruins loose, ordering parts, drinking a beer and typing.
-
My bad Sluckey, I shouldve been more descriptive. I meant electronically not physically
-
My bad Sluckey, I shouldve been more descriptive. I meant electronically not physically
Ah, OK. Look on page 3... http://home.comcast.net/~seluckey/amps/VAC15/Vox_AC15.pdf (http://home.comcast.net/~seluckey/amps/VAC15/Vox_AC15.pdf)
I keep forgetting. I'm updating the long board file, but not the original file. You may want to keep a copy of both. Sorry.
-
I do go back and forth and look at pics as well. I was reading Merlin's view on standbys on tube rectifiers. He said something about them being after the main caps and not in between rectifier and choke. He called it back flash ? Above my knowledge but it was interesting
-
A better STBY switch would be a DPST switch between the PT HT leads and the rectifier tube plates. The switch will last much longer. However, unless you are in a gigging environment and taking a break every hour, you don't need a STBY switch on a 15 watt amp. My STBY switch has remained in the operate position ever since I measured total B+ current back on the first day I powered up. Remember, the original had no STBY switch.
-
Sluckey,
Back from debate and the real world. I am mounting transformers. Does it matter where I place the choke? I think I will have room behinf both transformers and will probably allow for the shortest wire length and best lead dress in the power section.
-
Choke placement is not critical. But if you can mount it very close to that dual cap can that would be ideal. That's why I asked if it would fit under the hood.
-
Choke placement is not critical. But if you can mount it very close to that dual cap can that would be ideal. That's why I asked if it would fit under the hood.
I am planning it there if I can get it. It should and work well. Thanks!
-
If you have doubts about putting the choke under the hood, look at the old Sunn amps.
-
I got some iron time in today and I feel better now. I was a little overwhelmed for a second on where to begin. I started with the tube sockets. I'll neat them up when I'm done, on the output tranny, the brown/yellow and blue/yellow get cut and capped, correct. (http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/CDC87651-D48A-4AC7-B2AE-1D642D50166D_zpstaoqgim4.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/CDC87651-D48A-4AC7-B2AE-1D642D50166D_zpstaoqgim4.jpg.html)(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/BCBD927F-295E-4959-BCA5-E5205FC1C3C7_zpsuvl9pqkf.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/BCBD927F-295E-4959-BCA5-E5205FC1C3C7_zpsuvl9pqkf.jpg.html)
-
on the output tranny, the brown/yellow and blue/yellow get cut and capped, correct.
That's right. I left them full length and put heat shrink on them. Do you have the OT just like mine or is it the newer style with user friendly secondary winding?
It's beginning to look like an amp now. Won't be much longer.
-
I got the Hammond 1650F OT. Not exactly sure what your mentioning but I can either use the black and green wire for four ohms or the second set black/yellow stripe and the green/yellow(4ohm) and yellow(8ohm). Which will allow me to save on the selector switch I believe
-
Looking good Lego, won't be long now.
I had a pleasant surprise. I mounted my transformers and the PT wires are all long enough, just long enough. I am getting ready to run my heaters. Looks like I won't be far behind.
-
Sluckey,
you have your CT for your heaters with the chassis ground and all others together. Is there a reason to separate the heater CT? I can no problem, just wondering the reason mostly.
-
I don't like this Teflon wire tho, it's a pain in the ass to wrap around turrets. I bought 10feet of every color in the old school cloth wiring for next build
-
I don't like this Teflon wire tho, it's a pain in the ass to wrap around turrets. I bought 10feet of every color in the old school cloth wiring for next build
I've never had that problem. What gauge? Are you tinning it as soon as you strip it?
-
I bought 10feet of every color in the old school cloth wiring for next build
There's at least 2 kinds of the 'old school wire', ie, cloth covered.
I like the kind Doug has for sale. The other type has a thicker covering that I don't care for, to be fair some guys like it. I don't think it's what they call 'push back braid'. Not as easy to work with IMO.
To me, I think Doug's is much easier to work with.
22 ga Cloth wire - solid core;
http://hoffmanamps.com/MyStore/catalog/parts18.htm (http://hoffmanamps.com/MyStore/catalog/parts18.htm)
Brad :icon_biggrin:
-
Hey Lego, man that's beautiful work!!!!!!!
Very, very nice!!!!!!
Brad :bravo1:
-
Yeah I bought Doug's cloth wiring for next build. I should rephrase that about the Teflon, the small gauge is nice but the green and blue is was giving me a headache. I think the green was 18, I would strip with my new Klein auto stripper, twist it tight, clean and tin. Then prebend and wrap around lug, maybe it's cause it's the first time I'm using this stuff or that gauge is to thick
-
I should rephrase that about the Teflon, the small gauge is nice but the green and blue is was giving me a headache. I think the green was 18
Ah, now I see. Any kind of 18AWG would be tough installing on a turret, especially when using the pass thru holes. I use 20AWG for B+ and ground wires on the board. All other board wires are 22AWG, except for the 20AWG green wires that connect to tube socket grids (only because I don't have any green 22AWG).
I've got lots of 18AWG but seldom use it for anything.
-
you have your CT for your heaters with the chassis ground and all others together. Is there a reason to separate the heater CT?
T thought it looked purty.
-
Will keep that in mind Sluckey. I don't think I'll get to more of this this weekend :sad2:
-
Sluckey,
Running my heaters, question, what is the proper phase between a 12AX7 and an EF86, 4 to 4 and 9 to 5? :l2: :l2:
-
Ed the pin 4 for EF86 is on same phase as 4/5 for 12Ax7. Pin5 on EF86 is on phase of pin9 of 12ax7
-
I always run my heaters 180° out of phase.
-
I always run my heaters 180° out of phase.
Not possible, or is it? :think1:
One end of the Heater is the intake and the other is the exhaust, right? I right, one is the positive and the other is the negative. Which one is the positive on the green wires.
Please ignore my above comments. Meant as a joke.
-
One end of the Heater is the intake and the other is the exhaust, right? I right, one is the positive and the other is the negative.
Well I never thought about it as intake and exhaust, but I follow you. But that's only right half the time.
Which one is the positive on the green wires.
OK, I'll quit messing with you. Right now the green wire is positive and the green wire is negative. 16.7mS later the green wire is negative and the green wire is positive.
-
Right now the green wire is positive and the green wire is negative. 16.7mS later the green wire is negative and the green wire is positive.
:l4:
-
:dontknow:
-
16.7mS later the green wire is negative and the green wire is positive.
Crap, that's wrong too. It should be 8.3mS. Next time I'm gonna paint one of those green wires yellow like I did in my Revibe. That should eliminate all my confusion.
-
Lego, you are the recipient of an inside joke between Slucky and me. Please don't take any of this to mean anything.
-
16.7mS later the green wire is negative and the green wire is positive.
Crap, that's wrong too. It should be 8.3mS. Next time I'm gonna paint one of those green wires yellow like I did in my Revibe. That should eliminate all my confusion.
8.35ms
You want the job of explaining the joke, or you want me to do it?
-
That's ok, no need to explain
-
Well, I am down to making the board connections and hooking up the OT and hopefully we will hear music. Lots of wires left, but the PT wiring wend well and everything fit very nicely.
-
She fired up first try. Have not had a chance to play through a decent speaker, but so far it is nice.
I did measure and dropped the voltage to get the plates to 303-304 vdc, resistor gets a little hot for my liking. 10 watt, 250 ohm. Just wanted to see what t was like. Probably get everything put together and see what I finally end up with.
I will report more, just wanted to let you guys know the layout works well. More later.
-
Awesome!! Speakers and NOS amperex and Blue Celestion. I will be finished soon.
-
You know we want pics. And since you have some darn good chops we want some sound samples too. I'm very interested to hear your impression of the Celestion Blue.
-
Sluckey
Couple things.
When I am plugged into the wiggle channel I have to ground the footswitch to make it wiggle. Fine, as I am making a pedal anyway, but I thought you said your worked the other way. Maybe just bad recall on my part.
Second, if I jump channels and plug into the wiggle channel the both work, but not if I am plugged into the normal channel. Nothing at all. Both are very nice.
I have a high pitch squeal on the vibrato channel only when the cut is up all the way. I can find it, but wanted to know if you have tried this and noticed anything. Should be something simple.
Finally, I get whet you mean by the tremolo much stronger, but I think there should be something that can be done to get more vibrato. Vibrato seems a little weak overall.
I believe the tone is better on the normal and more apparent harmonics when turned up with the voltages lower. I tried just lowering the EF86 alone does not do it, I plan to drop whole thing. I do not like the heat coming off the resistor. I was using a ceramic block. I plan to use a nice ohmite I have. Do you see the heat as any problem? If so, I will just get the correct PT.
I cant remember, but I posted a method of checking the bias on cathode bias amps and you offered another method or a revision to it. I have the 1ohm in place. Mind reminding me your method of checking bias on cathode bias with the 1 ohm resistor. I did not keep your method, but it has something to do with not having to move you probe as much.
I changed the place of my open socket between both inputs. I have an idea, but it will be down the road a tad.
-
You know we want pics. And since you have some darn good chops we want some sound samples too. I'm very interested to hear your impression of the Celestion Blue.
I will get some photos before I button it up and yes I will play some too. You are going to appreciate my lead dress.
The blue is a great balanced speaker. I have one in my modded 5E3. They are very smooth and compressed and really help with any shrill and ice pick sounds.
I play every day and have since I was 6. I love to play anything as long as it is talented. I sould be able to play a song or 2. I will just do a at home recording to my computer this time and I will play some ROCK.
What would you like to hear?
-
You know we want pics. And since you have some darn good chops we want some sound samples too. I'm very interested to hear your impression of the Celestion Blue.
Yes, Yes and Yes!!!!!
I've heard you play befor and You Sir have some great chops!!!!!
Maybe somth'in like this;
:hijack1:
The Mavericks - Dance The Night Away (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-UajuBAUkBs#)
:occasion14: :happy1: :laugh:
Brad :blob8:
-
When I am plugged into the wiggle channel I have to ground the footswitch to make it wiggle. Fine, as I am making a pedal anyway, but I thought you said your worked the other way. Maybe just bad recall on my part.
The tip of the footswitch jack must be grounded for the wiggle to work. I used a Switchcraft 12A to short the tip to ground when no footswitch is plugged in.
Second, if I jump channels and plug into the wiggle channel the both work, but not if I am plugged into the normal channel. Nothing at all. Both are very nice.
You need to insert a plug into the 'unused' input jack when jumping channels as we discussed a while back. There's probably a more complicated switching arrangement that will break the ground on the unused input jack but I like simplicity.
I have a high pitch squeal on the vibrato channel only when the cut is up all the way. I can find it, but wanted to know if you have tried this and noticed anything. Should be something simple.
I don't have that squeal. But I've only had the volume turned up about half way so I can't say if the cut causes a squeal at full volume. I'll check that today.
Finally, I get whet you mean by the tremolo much stronger, but I think there should be something that can be done to get more vibrato. Vibrato seems a little weak overall.
I've looked but don't find anything wrong. I think that's just the nature of the circuit. Someone posted earlier confirming the trem was stronger than the vibrato. You should be able to get more vibrato by increasing the Depth control.
I believe the tone is better on the normal and more apparent harmonics when turned up with the voltages lower. I tried just lowering the EF86 alone does not do it, I plan to drop whole thing. I do not like the heat coming off the resistor. I was using a ceramic block. I plan to use a nice ohmite I have. Do you see the heat as any problem? If so, I will just get the correct PT.
Power resistors are supposed to get hot. Give it plenty of 'breathing' room. If your amp draws 100mA at idle like mine does, then a 250Ω/10W resistor will be fine.
P = I2R = .1 x .1 x 250 = 2.5 watts
I cant remember, but I posted a method of checking the bias on cathode bias amps and you offered another method or a revision to it. I have the 1ohm in place. Mind reminding me your method of checking bias on cathode bias with the 1 ohm resistor. I did not keep your method, but it has something to do with not having to move you probe as much.
I used two 1Ω resistors. Here's how I check idle dissipation...
1. Measure plate voltage (black lead on ground).
2. Measure cathode voltage. (black lead on ground)
3. Subtract step 2 from step 1 and record results here.
4. Measure millivolts ACROSS the 1Ω resistor. This directly converts to mA.
5. Multiply step 3 and step 4. This is your idle dissipation in watts.
6. Repeat step 4 and step 5 for the other tube.
I changed the place of my open socket between both inputs. I have an idea, but it will be down the road a tad.
Are you talking about the extra tube socket?
What would you like to hear?
I've been in the mood for Moody Blues lately. I also want to hear whatever you think really shows off the sound of the normal channel and the vibrato channel.
-
Sluckey,
I meant by posting about channel jumping that I do not have to insert a grounding jack if I plug into the wiggle channel. I have a switch on back connecting both just like you used the jumper wire. I plug into the wiggle channel and turn on the switch and the EF86 is added and both volumes work. If I plug into the normal channel it will not work unless I put a grounded plug into it.
Try yours and see. I also found the normal channel will swamp the Vibrato channel completely, but if you turn up the wiggle channel a lot and bring the normal channel up it adds a cool overdriven tone to the Vibrato/Tremolo. The cut adds a TON of overdrive when doing this and the 12 position switch I have allows me to add a lot of punch when doing this.
The Celestion helps out a lot as well as they tend to compress before they get shrill. Also, I have only used closed back. When I get the bug out of the cut control I will try opening up the back. I think it need the back open some as it does not have much volume, but I remember my original did not have loudness anywhere near a 18 watt. It is basically like putting a 12" in a princeton except much more open.
I am using a NOS Tesla EF86 which is not as smooth or as dark as a Mullard. I tried the mullard, but the Tesla is the clear winner. All my 12Ax7's are RCA except for the PI. There I have a balanced Russial Tungsol. I really like these. The RCA pan getters for the EL84 hold together longer then simply break off into distortion. Not much transition, but are durable. The Amperex Bugle Boys begin breakup early, but still have a very nice sound and they simply distort more the more you give them. I did not have to pay to going price, but I will when I need some new ones. I like them that much. If you can find a pair without breaking the bank, do it.
Tonight I am going to drop the voltage back and figure out what that the issue is with the cut. Like I said, I am sure it is simple.
Steve, you did a magnificent job on recreating a valid piece of history. I would have to say it is quite an undertaking to build this thing and I am not speaking from a Honeymoon perspective, since I have owned one. This is why the Vox name is still valid today and the new Vox amps cannot light this one's candle. It is not a bedroom amp, but it is not far from one.
More later after I have time to fiddle around more with it.
-
You know we want pics. And since you have some darn good chops we want some sound samples too. I'm very interested to hear your impression of the Celestion Blue.
Yes, Yes and Yes!!!!!
I've heard you play befor and You Sir have some great chops!!!!!
Maybe somth'in like this;
:hijack1:
The Mavericks - Dance The Night Away (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-UajuBAUkBs#)
:occasion14: :happy1: :laugh:
Brad :blob8:
Brad, you know I dig the Mavericks. Nice simple solo on guitar, but the horns make this tune. I will listen to it and see if I can rearrange some of it and pick up the melody with the progression. The guitar is fairly simple and as is I do not think it can hold its own.
Play a groove to it on your new Gibby and send it to me and I will counter if you want. I still have to figure out how to make a good recording on the computer the simple way.
I don't want to Hijack the thread with discussion on recording. We still have amps to build. :laugh:
-
I changed the place of my open socket between both inputs. I have an idea, but it will be down the road a tad.
Are you talking about the extra tube socket?
Yes the extra tube socket. My brain was stuck on trying to use it with the normal channel because I was only thinking of the Vibrato Channel for effects. While building it, when I installed the board I began to notice the values of the Vibrato preamp. I never used it much one the one I had when I was younger as I was not interested in clean tones. I guessed with the Vibrato I would not need any reverb and the amp doesn't really need reverb.
So I may add an additional tube to get a richer tone, not to add a "Gain" stage even though it may appear that way. I have some reading to do, but I have a bassman I did this to and it really sweetened up the clean tones.
Like I said, I plan to play it a while in its stock form and it will probably stay that way.
-
Awesome Ed, I feel better knowing another amp has fired up. I thnk I'll be the only one with the two board version tho. Details on your tweaks for lowering the voltage, it's not that I can't look it up but I'd rather see it from you guys. I should order my cabinet so it's here when I'm done. I think I want a combo now , but how would I do that with the way the chassis is built
-
Ed, I did some checking this morning.
1. I don't have any squeals with the cut control at any position, even with both volume controls set to max.
2. I had just the opposite results concerning jumping channels and input jacks. My input jacks had dirty switch contacts. Bet yours do too. I just used some sandpaper and contact cleaner to fix mine. Once the jacks are cleaned and switching properly you will need an open plug (not shorted) inserted in the unused input jack to get any sound when jumping the channels.
Lego, to lower the B+ just insert a 250Ω resistor between V8-3 and the STBY switch. I have an idea that will be easy to implement. It basically replaces the SPST STBY/OP switch with a three position DP switch that would provide STBY/SAG/OPERATE functions. The dropping resistor would mount directly to the switch. Doug has the switch.
BTW, I've updated my web page to include a better gut shot that also shows the Brilliance Switch mod. And the original PDF has been updated to show all the changes we've talked about throughout this thread.
-
Awesome Ed, I feel better knowing another amp has fired up. I thnk I'll be the only one with the two board version tho. Details on your tweaks for lowering the voltage, it's not that I can't look it up but I'd rather see it from you guys. I should order my cabinet so it's here when I'm done. I think I want a combo now , but how would I do that with the way the chassis is built
With a combo you can mount the amp to the back panel just as you would mount it to the botton of a headbox. This is one method and works well if your back panel is thick, like 1/2 inch plywood.
Another method, which I prefer is to drill holes at the end of the faceplates and matching holes in the tip of the main cabinet like a tweed and many other amplifiers from the late 50's and earlier. The huge benefit in this method is when you remove the back panel the entire amp is right there. Makes it easy to change tubes and check bias and do some repairs. Some of the newer amps are this way again, but doesn't make them much easier. Like the Hot Rod Deluxe, bit it is easier to change tubes and set the bias than in a Blackface Deluxe.
If I hang the chassis like I mentioned, i usually use large fender washers and acorn nuts to finish it off. It will need a vent in the top behind the handle for a heat vent for the tubes. I put one in my head box and at the rear also.
The only difference in the 2 boards is the filter caps are together. Gotta remember all those loved Fender amps were done that way and did not hurt the tone of the BlackFace amps. If anyone has an old BlackFace amp they do not like, PM me and I will take it off your hands. :l2:
-
Ed, I did some checking this morning.
1. I don't have any squeals with the cut control at any position, even with both volume controls set to max.
2. I had just the opposite results concerning jumping channels and input jacks. My input jacks had dirty switch contacts. Bet yours do too. I just used some sandpaper and contact cleaner to fix mine. Once the jacks are cleaned and switching properly you will need an open plug (not shorted) inserted in the unused input jack to get any sound when jumping the channels.
Lego, to lower the B+ just insert a 250Ω resistor between V8-3 and the STBY switch. I have an idea that will be easy to implement. It basically replaces the SPST STBY/OP switch with a three position DP switch that would provide STBY/SAG/OPERATE functions. The dropping resistor would mount directly to the switch. Doug has the switch.
BTW, I've updated my web page to include a better gut shot that also shows the Brilliance Switch mod. And the original PDF has been updated to show all the changes we've talked about throughout this thread.
I bet I do as well. I also bet that is where the squeal is coming from. Lease I have had open inputs cause noises. Anyway, thanks for checking. The squeal is not very bad and I am sure it will be simple to find. I am not concerned at all. At least now I know it is something that can be fixed. I was so excited last night playing it, I did not care as it has to be almost wide open to squeal anyway.
The switch idea sounds good, but I would never use the sag and I did not notice any additional sag that was not present from the tube. I promise I was running it WIDE OPEN :icon_biggrin:
Why do you propose the sag switch? Heat?
I do not trust that JJ rectifier tube so much that I installed 3 series diodes exiting pin 3. Did you have the Mullard already? Do you ever buy NOS tubes? From where? I am looking for one now. I have 2 pulls, but I sure would like to find an old new one. Then I could just forget about it forever.
-
Another thing. I built another rail for the back of the chassis similar to the front. I really like working with the metal wire over the copper I used to use. You are correct about the floor noise. I cannot even hear the amp.
-
Why do you propose the sag switch? Heat?
Just thought I'd throw that idea out there. I'm not fond of using a resistor to drop the main B+ voltage. I believe that was your idea. I thought it might be handy to switch back and forth between 350VDC and 304VDC. Then you would know if there is really much difference in the tone.
I do not trust that JJ rectifier tube so much that I installed 3 series diodes exiting pin 3.
What does that do for you?
Did you have the Mullard already?
I don't have a Mullard. It's a Telefunken. It came in one of the Hammond AO-44s that I have. I also have a couple of JJs. One is in my Marshall 18W and the other is in my AC15 Lite. I can't tell any difference except that the JJs are prettier. :icon_biggrin:
-
Ed, about the Celestion Blue, what power rating and impedance do you recommend for this amp?
-
So as for dropping the B+ voltage and you not being fond of the 250ohm resistor, what options are there? Changing the rectifier would work wouldn't it, I haven't looked into which would work as a replacement. What about adding a bias pot? If yours worked out then I dont see why I should worry :icon_biggrin: Thanks for the tip on the combo, I thought about putting it in a tweed cab, Which one :think1:
-
Ed, about the Celestion Blue, what power rating and impedance do you recommend for this amp?
They only come in 1 power rating and that is 15 watts. In reality the wattage is more. I am using 16 ohms, but you do not have a 16 tap do you. I prefer to use the largest tap I have available when possible. Something about using all the windings in the transformer has stuck in my mind ever since a pedal builder said it to me at a NAMM show.
I tried a JBL and a Altec and they both sounded very nice. All the Jensen types, Weber etc sound good, but do tend to be a tad sharp and sound better with 6v6 to me.
These speakers and amp go together like pecan pie and ice cream. :icon_biggrin:
I skipped lunch today.
-
So as for dropping the B+ voltage and you not being fond of the 250ohm resistor, what options are there?
Honestly, I'm happy with the voltages I have. I believe you will be too. You won't be disappointed.
The resistor is the dead nuts easiest/cheapest way to go from 340V to 300V. New PT is the most expensive and that's a gamble. You may not get the voltage reduction you expected.
Why not put this on the back burner until you have some actual measured voltages and an idea of the sound with those voltages?
-
Why do you propose the sag switch? Heat?
Just thought I'd throw that idea out there. I'm not fond of using a resistor to drop the main B+ voltage. I believe that was your idea. I thought it might be handy to switch back and forth between 350VDC and 304VDC. Then you would know if there is really much difference in the tone.
I do not trust that JJ rectifier tube so much that I installed 3 series diodes exiting pin 3.
What does that do for you?
I read in the Trainwreck papers where it protects the rectifier and transformer. Probably not the case, right? See the last page of this PDF. Except I stated whet I did wrongly. I have them between the Transformer and the tube on both HT's.
http://www.blueguitar.org/new/schem/trainwreck/the_trainwreck_pages.pdf (http://www.blueguitar.org/new/schem/trainwreck/the_trainwreck_pages.pdf)
This shows tube protection. Not a bad idea in any build since diodes are so cheap. I use them often. May not do much, but I feel better.
BTW, I just ordered a Mullard Rectifier, but the JJ power tubes get good reviews.
-
So as for dropping the B+ voltage and you not being fond of the 250ohm resistor, what options are there?
Honestly, I'm happy with the voltages I have. I believe you will be too. You won't be disappointed.
The resistor is the dead nuts easiest/cheapest way to go from 340V to 300V. New PT is the most expensive and that's a gamble. You may not get the voltage reduction you expected.
Why not put this on the back burner until you have some actual measured voltages and an idea of the sound with those voltages?
+1, the amp sounds great with the voltages at 330 to 340. You will love it. I am just weird.
-
$260 for a 12" 8ohm celestion blue :sad2:
-
$260 for a 12" 8ohm celestion blue :sad2:
Sorry Buddy, they are expensive. I would go with a Greenback 25 watt next if that were to pricy or a Blue Dog Weber in low watts.
Keep an eye on Craigslist. That is where I get the majority of mine, ebay gets too expensive but sometimes I find a good deal there as well.
-
I had two 10" greenbacks in crate vintage club 30 when they just came out with that amp. I'll look at those blue webers and maybe sell a cigar box guitar for some cash
-
Ed, on that TrainWreck schem they are using a 6v6 type tube and pin3 with diodes to ground. The el84 would be pin 7, so by adding those diodes onto to pin 7 then to ground is what you did? I'm all for safety and saving components. That mod is like $1.00
-
Like thishttp://ampgarage.com/forum/files/tw_express_layout_rlw_18_635.pdf
-
Sluckey on your power tubes you just used the 1 ohm power resistor from board to pin 3! Genius , I think I'll mark that change
-
Ed, on that TrainWreck schem they are using a 6v6 type tube and pin3 with diodes to ground. The el84 would be pin 7, so by adding those diodes onto to pin 7 then to ground is what you did? I'm all for safety and saving components. That mod is like $1.00
I referred to the wrong thing. No need to do this. I put diodes on the HT wires from the PT. No need to do this, but you can.
-
:thumbsup: less work. I am ready to wire up the 6 pole tone switch. The pins don't exactly line up with your pic Sluckey but is it safe to say that I should count 6 tabs that make contact with tab as one side and the other is for other tab
-
Without seeing the switch I'd say that's probably safe. However, it only takes a couple minutes with an ohm meter to remove all doubt.
-
It's the switch that you posted from antique supply. 2 pole/ 6 pos, MBB. :BangHead: I could do that with the meter. I get ahead of my self. I'm working on trying to figure out how scaffold company is gonna work. They need 150amps to run 5 rigs down my building in midtown. We are maxed out :think1:
-
I dont have a .0015uf for the switch, can I sub with a .001uf
-
I dont have a .0015uf for the switch, can I sub with a .001uf
Sure it will. Just looking for some variety in tones. I have found I like the larger caps.
I meant to mention it. I tried the amp with Greenbacks and it sounds really close to the Blue. Not the Vintage 30 tho. Highs are sharp. I also ran it with a single Celestion Gold 10" and it was very nice. I am thinking about making a single 10 cab.
-
Got a few more leads soldered today, not much tho. I did the rotary switch( thanks for the help Sluckey), one input and the standby here(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/514437D7-46E5-408D-8BBA-4B38D61CB12E_zpsutyjejve.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/514437D7-46E5-408D-8BBA-4B38D61CB12E_zpsutyjejve.jpg.html) v8-3 to one side of standby, the other side has lead from cap board +one leg of choke. The other leg of choke is B capped to other hot lead from cap board
-
I dont have a .0015uf for the switch, can I sub with a .001uf
Sure it will. Just looking for some variety in tones. I have found I like the larger caps.
I meant to mention it. I tried the amp with Greenbacks and it sounds really close to the Blue. Not the Vintage 30 tho. Highs are sharp. I also ran it with a single Celestion Gold 10" and it was very nice. I am thinking about making a single 10 cab.
Wow Ed, you and SG both getting your amps up and running within a few days of each other!? Congrats! I love the golden 10 also. If I had two that were needed I'd probably match it to a Weber Blue pup. Not sure if you had one of those or not? But the Blues are nice too. Another thing with a 10 that I have in a EF86 and EL84 that I think you'd really love is...don't laugh...an Eminence Ram Rod. I don't know what it is exactly about that speaker but it's up there with any of them. When you start playing and something just sounds right and makes you want to keep playing and playing...? I highly recommend this one if you can give it a try. I'd love to hear your thoughts too.
-
I dont have a .0015uf for the switch, can I sub with a .001uf
Sure it will. Just looking for some variety in tones. I have found I like the larger caps.
I meant to mention it. I tried the amp with Greenbacks and it sounds really close to the Blue. Not the Vintage 30 tho. Highs are sharp. I also ran it with a single Celestion Gold 10" and it was very nice. I am thinking about making a single 10 cab.
I assume you mean a 10" Ram Rod. Let me know and I will "find" one. I know you are speaker crazy, just like me so I really respect your opinion.
June 11th, I will be gone for while as I am having disk replacement. I wish you a complete spededy recovery.
Wow Ed, you and SG both getting your amps up and running within a few days of each other!? Congrats! I love the golden 10 also. If I had two that were needed I'd probably match it to a Weber Blue pup. Not sure if you had one of those or not? But the Blues are nice too. Another thing with a 10 that I have in a EF86 and EL84 that I think you'd really love is...don't laugh...an Eminence Ram Rod. I don't know what it is exactly about that speaker but it's up there with any of them. When you start playing and something just sounds right and makes you want to keep playing and playing...? I highly recommend this one if you can give it a try. I'd love to hear your thoughts too.
-
Yes Ed they only make the Ramrod in a 10" size. It is doped w/ large magnet for it's size & rated higher than most 10's @ 100dB efficiency. Good luck with your disk too. The recovery period still sucks but it's the end result that counts and at least knowing that things will get better eventually. The nerve block works wonders initially and only needed pain meds for a few days, hope yours is similar. Maybe neodymium speakers are in our future? Probably not but it makes the 10's seem more attractive now don't it? :laugh:
Give a listen specifically to Tomo Fujita's demos as they are most representative of how it sounds in person: http://www.eminence.com/support/tone-guide/?model=Ramrod (http://www.eminence.com/support/tone-guide/?model=Ramrod)
-
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/99A8D23C-6F54-4739-88EA-2833E9936171_zpsy6fj5zfe.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/99A8D23C-6F54-4739-88EA-2833E9936171_zpsy6fj5zfe.jpg.html) got the buss up and soldered to pots and the speed switch done.
-
Looks GREAT lego!
:thumbsup:
-
We need bigger pics.
-
Out of respect I am keeping pics small :grin: if someone wants a picture larger I would gladly email. I already see where I'm going to fix some solder joints. Of coarse I pulled out the surf rod for some weekend stripe bass/ blue fish fishing
-
I understand that but you went from one extreme to another.
-
Ok next one will be bigger :icon_biggrin:
-
Ed, here's a channel jump switch that will positively work. Be good if you could squeeze the switch in between the input jacks.
-
Gotta use a subminiature for that one, is that on/on/on
-
Gotta use a subminiature for that one, is that on/on/on
It's a mini DPDT two position. on/on
This is my preferred jumper...
-
Gotta use a subminiature for that one, is that on/on/on
It's a mini DPDT two position. on/on
This is my preferred jumper...
OI have a few of these types. The switch is easy and a good mod, I think I like it. I will use a mini long bat. Got a few of them around.
I have overworked myself and I am having to take it easy. I absolutely love this amp. Last night I was playing Tom Petty with a Gretsch 6120 (a friends) through it and it really sounds great. I am going to take a break since all I have left is these little things like the switch you proposed and also I am just about finished with a footswitch.
I have been rolling tubes and I found a few nice ones I did not know I had. Thanks for the switch idea.
-
Speaking of switches, I can't believe you haven't noticed the switch next to my footswitch jack. :wink:
-
Hey guys, the Hammond 270fx has two choices for main hook up. Grey/white for 115v and black/white for 125volts. I'm reading 120 volts at my outlets, should I use the 125v hookup
-
Deleted
-
I'm reading 120 volts at my outlets, should I use the 125v hookup
Yes.
-
Fast/Slow switch?
:wink:
-
Thanks Sluckey, got more done and will post pics. Of coarse I soldered up 115v like a dummy. That's a 2 second change
-
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/3DEB2DF8-31F3-4E1F-9C5A-259846281A95_zpsdnftusly.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/3DEB2DF8-31F3-4E1F-9C5A-259846281A95_zpsdnftusly.jpg.html)(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/90B7F8CC-4C77-41C5-A854-32EBA4609D45_zpsrfm22cqj.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/90B7F8CC-4C77-41C5-A854-32EBA4609D45_zpsrfm22cqj.jpg.html)trying to keep it neat, I ran the secondary 6.3 to lamp first then to heaters. I had more room on those tabs first
-
Speaking of switches, I can't believe you haven't noticed the switch next to my footswitch jack. :wink:
Still cannot see it in your build page. Did you post another photo? I don't see it on the schematic.
Spill the beans, what you been doing? I have a couple of things I am going th have to change on the wiggle channel. Maybe I need to know this as well.
-
It's just a fast/slow switch. If you don't see it maybe you need to refresh/reload the page.
-
Almost there. I'll post some updated pics later. Have a great Memorial Day Weekend
-
Another minor mod...
IMO, the AC-15 Vib/Trem has a design flaw. The footswitch operation has a delayed turn on. IOW, step on the footswitch for that sweet Vib sound and it may be a second or longer before you actually get the effect.
This is because the footswitch in the original circuit disables the oscillator. When you turn it on with the footswitch, it takes time for the oscillator to build up. That's just the way it is.
But if you're like me, when you stomp the footswitch, you want the Vib now, not later. There's a simple solution that I've used in the Revibe and other trem circuits... Just leave the oscillator running all the time and kill the LFO signal farther downstream. This can easily be done with a simple mod.
Move the existing wire on the tip of the footswitch jack to the sleeve (ground) lug. This enables the oscillator all the time. Now connect a wire from the tip of the footswitch jack to the top side of the Depth control (or Depth Preset if you have an original). That's all!
Now you have instant VIB when you step on the switch.
-
:worthy1: That's easy enough, top side? Leg 1or 3. For people who have bought empty combo cabs, I've looked at Mojo, Mather, sour mash and weber. I might keep it simple and go with mojo cause I can get speaker at the same time. Any preferences out there
-
That's easy enough, top side? Leg 1or 3.
Top when looking at the schematic. Right lug when looking at the layout. But regardless of your viewpoint, it's the outside lug that ain't grounded. I recommend trying it as is first. You may be happy just the way it is.
I've been kinda drooling for this cab with Blue lately. I really like the blonde pic...
http://www.avatarspeakers.com/vintage%20g112.htm (http://www.avatarspeakers.com/vintage%20g112.htm)
-
That's easy enough, top side? Leg 1or 3.
Top when looking at the schematic. Right lug when looking at the layout. But regardless of your viewpoint, it's the outside lug that ain't grounded. I recommend trying it as is first. You may be happy just the way it is.
I've been kinda drooling for this cab with Blue lately. I really like the blonde pic...
http://www.avatarspeakers.com/vintage%20g112.htm (http://www.avatarspeakers.com/vintage%20g112.htm)
I like Avatar cabs. They do a great job and this one is very similar in dimension to a Vox cab. Basically it is a single "Bluesbreaker" (Backbreaker) cab.
Are you talking Blue speaker and Blond cab. That is what mine is, but it would be cool to do the red Vox version. That Vox grill cloth works with everything. Anyway, good selection is you have the bucks. The headbox looks good too.
-
So I want to hook up the speaker jacks, Im using Hoffmans 3 way rotary switch and the new Hammond 1650F. I want to be able to use all 3 ohms availble with the switch but I dont think I can? (http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/rotary_zps7f12d4c6.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/rotary_zps7f12d4c6.jpg.html)(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Hammond1650FFour1_zps27bc1594.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Hammond1650FFour1_zps27bc1594.jpg.html)
-
I want to be able to use all 3 ohms availble with the switch but I dont think I can?
Correct. You can't use that switch with that OT. To use Doug's switch you would need the new 1650FA 'easy wire secondary' OT.
I used two jacks and wired the OT for 4/8Ω. I can't do 16Ω without restrapping the OT. Sucks, don't it?
-
:cussing: I wonder if using a DPDT switch you can go between 4&16 ohm? I stare at these lines to long my eyes get buggy and I get a headache. I'm all wired up now except speaker jacks
-
Wire it like I did and deal with it later if you feel the need. You need to get that amp fired up and start gettin' some satisfaction! :wink:
-
Tomorrow I'll fire it up :icon_biggrin:of coarse on the current limiter first
-
I wonder if using a DPDT switch you can go between 4&16 ohm?
Here's a possible solution using a DPDT toggle switch. The pic shows using 3 jacks for more versatility but if you only want to switch between 4 and 16, just eliminate the 8 and 16 jacks.
-
Tomorrow I'll fire it up :icon_biggrin:of coarse on the current limiter first
:wav:
Firing up tomorrow.
Ya!!!!
-
Amp is up and running, I did the poor mans variac and it's good. I'm taking some measurements now. 275vac on secondary and 335ish on rectifier pin 3
-
:worthy1: Hats off to Sluckey, I only played amp thru a 8" old speaker mounted in a cardboard box(bench test speaker) and this amp blew me away. At first I couldn't get vib to work and then remembered Eds dilemma. I stuck a jack in it and shorted the tip n sleeve and was in a time warp. Dual board version is verified baby. I took measurements were they were noted in Sluckey's schematic. I will post my measurements(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/395054B7-3AB1-4030-810B-4A3098AD0D2B_zpsqmszzira.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/395054B7-3AB1-4030-810B-4A3098AD0D2B_zpsqmszzira.jpg.html)(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/C814CD2F-6AA7-456C-B3EB-587C1F499669_zpslyhzhovz.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/C814CD2F-6AA7-456C-B3EB-587C1F499669_zpslyhzhovz.jpg.html)(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/931D90AF-ED79-41AB-950A-D236A8705674_zpszqnkniuh.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/931D90AF-ED79-41AB-950A-D236A8705674_zpszqnkniuh.jpg.html)
-
Outstanding! That really looks professional lego. We want to see some gut shots too. Bet your friends over on BYOC would like to know what you've been up to.
-
At first I couldn't get vib to work and then remembered Eds dilemma. I stuck a jack in it and shorted the tip n sleeve and was in a time warp.
If you use a Switchcraft 12A (like the input jacks) and wire the switch lug to the ground lug the VIB/TREM will be enabled without anything plugged into the footswitch jack.
-
Outstanding! That really looks professional lego.
Yes!!!!!!
We want to see some gut shots too.
Yes!!!!!!
Brad :bravo1:
-
I did use the 12A jack and will make that change, my vib and tremolo is reversed? I'll just flip switch. I cat believe the sound, on 2 it's sweet. Can't wait to crank it out
-
OK, I just gotta know. Could you have squeezed this into a 17 x 6.5 x 2.5 chassis?
-
With the two board version I built, all that open space with no board on top, I think you can have that in a 17" chassis. I am no pro builder but w careful thinking if where trans can go! Things will have to be carefully layered but I can see it. Your single board was 13"? You then have that space where my caps are for trannies, you can rearrange tubes to be closer and power tubes perpendicular. I'm no specialist but if your thinking of figuring it out, it's worth it to me. I can't wait to put this in a home
-
Well there it is. Great looking amp. :worthy1:
I will get some photos up soon, I have been busy playing it and rolling tubes, changing voltages fitting speakers and dampening the cabinet some. I still have to install the channel jump switch, right now I am jumping with a switch and plug.
Soon as you get a chance, play some Credence (CCR) with the vibrato and use your Gretsch. I used my 335, man it really gets the groove.
-
I have to redo my rotary switch, only works on one value? I just might stick the standard switch in when I order it. I went blank on doing the voltage checking, I was so excited. I couldn't remember how to check the wattage and all that. I still have to try and remember how :help:
-
Who had that link to the mini chicken head knobs?
-
Here's one;
http://www.tubesandmore.com/products/P-K900 (http://www.tubesandmore.com/products/P-K900)
Brad :icon_biggrin:
-
Who had that link to the mini chicken head knobs?
I bought a set and took them off the next day. Too tiny for my hands. They also look odd on the amp. Might be fine on a stomp box.
-
Sluckey, If you got to look at my readings do they look kosher? Thanks fo the link on knobs. Ill have to choose one sooner or later
-
Sluckey, If you got to look at my readings do they look kosher?
Look about perfect to me.
-
I couldn't remember how to check the wattage and all that. I still have to try and remember how :help:
See reply #495 on page 10.
-
I saved that page yesterday too, I just went blank once it fired up :laugh: I did the footswitch wire change and thats done. I'm noticing my normal channel is louder then my vibrato channel, if i put vib on 2 and play then plug it in to normal on 2 its way louder. Also I noticed that whatever channel I am playing in and have the top cut on 0 and the other volume vol on 0 I get a buzz. If I turn one of those to clockwise just a little it goes away. This is some of my findings as I play with amp
-
Sluckey this is what I came up with. My meter was acting up on mv readings. (http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/CD3B42FD-D5F1-4859-90EA-7D408240C3AC_zpsnryshk0m.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/CD3B42FD-D5F1-4859-90EA-7D408240C3AC_zpsnryshk0m.jpg.html)
-
You're fine. That 18 watts is for both tubes. That calculated 58mA cathode current splits thru the tubes. Hopefully it splits evenly so you would have to divide the total current by 2 to get the current thru each tube. Really not a big deal in a cathode biased amp.
I'll check on some of your other issues soon.
-
I just went over some other readings about Biasing and the tubes did not get overheated while playing. Your a mind savior. Hopefully I'll pull the trigger on a cab and speaker. Anyone ever use Mojotone Speakers? They have a Blue British speaker that's mode in England at a reasonable price
-
Ed you still working on adding reverb to the amp
-
Ed you still working on adding reverb to the amp
Not going to do a reverb because it doesn't need one. With the channels jumped and the normal volume up just over the vibrato, running the vibrato with some speed you get quite a bit of depth.
Truthfully, once I got it into the head box and the speaker mounted I have not done anything but play it a lot. I love the amp. Like I mentioned, I had an original and I was young and sold it. I have another now. :icon_biggrin:
I love the thing. I am going to do a few more things to it, but I am waiting so I can do all at the same time. I don't always use the tube socket, but I probably will. I have been using the Belton Bricks for reverb some and they are great, but a nice loop is probably making the top of the list.
I read your questions about the speaker. I have tried a few different ones as I have many speakers and can use any cab I want and I have some of the highest regarded speakers and I not going to use anything other than the Celestion Blue. I know they are expensive and I own 4 of them and I would not sell any of them for less than $300 because they are broken in well. The one I put in the cabinet I would not sell for that cheap as I bought it new about a year ago and have been playing it in a 2, 12 with a greenback for about a year. I pulled it and put my oldest one back in.
The amp sounds better to me with a single Blue than a Blue and Greenback together. I also have a silver Vox 10" and it breaks up too easily with the amp.
Just my 2¢ on the speaker selection. There is a reason everyone with a Vox amp either has one or wants one. I do not know of another speaker like it and I do have a couple of Weber Blue Dogs Alnicos.
-
Truthfully, once I got it into the head box and the speaker mounted I have not done anything but play it a lot. I love the amp. Like I mentioned, I had an original and I was young and sold it. I have another now. :icon_biggrin:
Now that's a success story.....
Great work guys!
Lego, I'd just like to thank you again for coming here and sharing your project, and kicking these old guys in the pants...
It has been fun to watch.
-
Truthfully, once I got it into the head box and the speaker mounted I have not done anything but play it a lot. I love the amp. Like I mentioned, I had an original and I was young and sold it. I have another now. :icon_biggrin:
Now that's a success story.....
Great work guys!
Lego, I'd just like to thank you again for coming here and sharing your project, and kicking these old guys in the pants...
It has been fun to watch.
Did not take much to get me going on it either. I believe Sluckey was the same way. I think he has been wanting to see if the layout would work nice. It is great and there is no heat problems. :icon_biggrin:
I play a lot more than I build. I really love building and modding amps, but I would rather play. I have always bee that way. I never get tired of it like some of my friends say. I have been looking at camcorders and plan to get one soon so I can demo the builds I have done. Until then just keep in mind I am just an old hack with some nice amps.
The amp is Killer playing anything, but really shines playing CCR and Tom Petty and the Beatles of course. What surprised me the most is how great it is chicken picken with a Telecaster.
Did the guit :icon_biggrin: ar chick like her dig her amp? ready to build another just like it, or did you learn a few things and maybe change it up a little next time.
What do you think about the overdrive you had in a AC15 :l2:
-
I play a lot more than I build. I really love building and modding amps, but I would rather play. I have always bee that way. I never get tired of it like some of my friends say. I have been looking at camcorders and plan to get one soon so I can demo the builds I have done. Until then just keep in mind I am just an old hack with some nice amps.
I'm gonna have to eventually get back there....I put it down about 7 years ago, and now I regret that....
I'm looking forward to those clips
The amp is Killer playing anything, but really shines playing CCR and Tom Petty and the Beatles of course. What surprised me the most is how great it is chicken picken with a Telecaster.
That's something I'll never know...tried it..I'll stick to chicken eatin' :icon_biggrin:
Did the guit :icon_biggrin: ar chick like her dig her amp? ready to build another just like it, or did you learn a few things and maybe change it up a little next time.
Check the thread...I finally updated it
What do you think about the overdrive you had in a AC15 :l2:
What overdrive? :wink:
That's one thing that's open for interpretation around here....one man's overdrive is another man's clean channel :icon_biggrin:
-
...I'm noticing my normal channel is louder then my vibrato channel, if i put vib on 2 and play then plug it in to normal on 2 its way louder.
Also I noticed that whatever channel I am playing in and have the top cut on 0 and the other volume vol on 0 I get a buzz. If I turn one of those to clockwise just a little it goes away.
The normal channel is considerably hotter than the Vibrato channel. Ed and I both noticed that. I don't think there is anything wrong, just the nature of the EF86 channel.
I don't have the buzz. Will you ever play the amp with the cut at zero? Zero cut is really max cut if you wired the pot IAW the layout diagram. IOW, as you turn the cut clockwise the tone gets brighter.
-
I'll never play the amp at zero so that weird issue won't be a problem. For reverb I built two beltin brick pedals myself, one is the BYOC reverb and the other is a rub a dub that I have in my rockabilly box(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/E492A974-71AA-4311-9CFB-E764828C9C94-38712-0000454C3BA92D55_zps698006f8.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/E492A974-71AA-4311-9CFB-E764828C9C94-38712-0000454C3BA92D55_zps698006f8.jpg.html)(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/BEE0E979-8C3B-4693-83E7-2A94777FFA6C-37518-000042B69D0C6283_zps957ad29b.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/BEE0E979-8C3B-4693-83E7-2A94777FFA6C-37518-000042B69D0C6283_zps957ad29b.jpg.html) this pedal is a multiplex junior(echo,delay)/reverb/modulation/llama overdrive
-
Sluckey I made that speaker out to your design (http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/3EFA3308-3AE0-4F9C-9359-F0B1865D5218_zpsw45twzet.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/3EFA3308-3AE0-4F9C-9359-F0B1865D5218_zpsw45twzet.jpg.html) I got I shorten the yellow wire tomorrow. I took a break and built another CBG(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/1A11F37D-0A9F-4A67-9A18-73745325D5BB_zpsjudldwap.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/1A11F37D-0A9F-4A67-9A18-73745325D5BB_zpsjudldwap.jpg.html)and go plugging for stripe bass and blues(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/241D87CA-D0DB-4DCD-BC4A-C271F4E279CC_zpsvscexrmk.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/241D87CA-D0DB-4DCD-BC4A-C271F4E279CC_zpsvscexrmk.jpg.html)
-
I'm thinking strongly about doing that too. It always bugged me to have a 16Ω tap that was not easily usable. There have been so many little mods that keep popping up with this amp that I may put together a pdf just to keep track of it all. If I do I'll let you know.
Did you catch anything?
-
I caught peace and tranquility for about 2 hours, no fish. I'm working on getting all my get back in order, nothing like battling a big blue fish or striper. My family are all fishermen and we would eat all our catches. I need to rewrite rotary, I screwed up wiring and only one selection works. Its taking me forever to pick a cabinet, I was thinking a standard mojo Marshall style and mojo British blue. The only thing with that is the faceplate will be backwards the way the tubes are
-
Hi all -
Very late joiner here. Wow a proven AC15 clone! Great work guys. Wow Sluckey :worthy1:
Do you think Doug might cut a CNC board for this beauty?? Hope so!! :help:
-
Do you think Doug might cut a CNC board for this beauty??
Sure. Just click on the link at the bottom of this page to create your own board. Then Doug will use it to create a file to control his CNC. You can use my drill guide to mark the turret locations in Doug's program. Just keep in mind, his board will be longer than my board because the distance between adjacent turrets is greater than my .25" spacing.
I don't know if Doug can directly convert my drawing to a file suitable for his CNC. I'll ask him.
-
Sluckey I redid the speaker outs, L>R is switch,4,8,16 ohms. I pulled out rotary switch, tested and all worked. I put it back and had issues. I pulled it out and and bypassed it for know. It plays so sweet I'm just gonna go back to original switch wit 220pf. Here is the back(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/67B94699-8EDF-4720-9CF9-8CB04D8649E9_zps2lzcfliy.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/67B94699-8EDF-4720-9CF9-8CB04D8649E9_zps2lzcfliy.jpg.html)
-
I sure do like the looks of that dog house. Just looks like it belongs. Every time I see your amp I feel like I should do one more, but stuff it in a 17" box. Still wanting to do the speaker jacks like that too. I know I'll probably never use a 16Ω tap, but it just bugs me having one that's not available.
Don't give up on the tone switch. It's got to be something simple.
BTW, I'm really liking the sound of this amp through the 8" Vox speaker in my 'stuffed vox' project. Makes me really want that Avatar Celestion Blue cab.
-
I won't give up on switch, I counted the six pins on top and Six on bottom, although they don't exactly line up like your picture. There isn't a pin directly above or bellow where the leads from amp and to vol pot go. I will install the Power plug like you have, I did it the other way with plug Always connected and it's a pain in the butt to deal with on the bench. I'm heading over to avatars site again now. I should sell my 1930's Dobro and go get me a 2x12 cab combo
-
I should sell my 1930's Dobro
Whoo!!!! Back up the buss, hold the phone!!!!
Old Dobro, send me a PM please!!!!
Brad :icon_biggrin:
-
I won't give up on switch, I counted the six pins on top and Six on bottom, although they don't exactly line up like your picture. There isn't a pin directly above or bellow where the leads from amp and to vol pot go. I will install the Power plug like you have, I did it the other way with plug Always connected and it's a pain in the butt to deal with on the bench. I'm heading over to avatars site again now. I should sell my 1930's Dobro and go get me a 2x12 cab combo
What are your thoughts on a 2 12 cab? Are you needing more volume or do you just want to mix and match speakers. Mojo builds a 1 12 british style. It is just like a 18 watt 2, 12 marshall only a single 12.
I have tried many different combinations of 12 inch speakers and found I prefer the Celestion Blue. The Blue speaker has a more mellow upper mid and highs and compress easily and IMO is the Vox tone. I tried it with two of them and I got enough volume to Gig it. With a single 12 you cannot get up over a drummer with a clean, it breaks up some.
What does work is using a NOS tesla EF86 on the normal channel with Amperex Holland NOS. The amperex keep a clean signal and a higher volume than any I have tried. Much more than JJ. The character of the JJ's is very similar to old RTF's which I really like because they breakup early and do it nicely.
In the wiggle channel the RCA nos 12Au7 is a clear winner as it makes for a much more distinct Vibrato. In the first hole a 5751 will make the normal channel have more volume before breakup and if you can get a Black Plate it is very nice. Still the normal channel is much louder especially with the tesla. A mullard NOS as usual has the mullard sound. very round very smooth.
This amp responds to different tubes very much and in reality a whole set of new production work well.
On speakers since you are at 18 watts listen to some of Dr Z Maz
Dr. Z MAZ 18 Jr 1x12 Combo Amp Demo (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4GcHXLSyqMU#ws)
They have speakers made for them, but looking at them and the sound is very much Greenback Celestion. They chime, but I cannot hear any of the bell tones, but I have a Blue in a Tweed Deluxe build and it does have the bell tones.
Not trying to convince you on speakers because everyone likes different speakers, but putting a greenback with a blue in the same cab does not allow the bell tones to be cleary audible. On the other hand I paired a Blue with an old Jensen p12q and this paired up great.
-
Damn Ed, that's a chock full of info for the tube rollers. I do feel the vibrato is a little weak and could stand for a fuller vib, tremolo is perfect. I was joking about a 2x12, I'll never use or need it. I'm thinking the mojo 18watt Marshall cab. I don't know if this chassis (my cab has the ears out the side and make it 21 1/2".) hopefully not a lot of finagling and the chassis bolts will line up. Will that 12AU7 break the bank?
-
listen to some of Dr Z Maz
How bout that riff at 1:24?
I'll be stealin' that one for sure.
Thanks again for sharing all of your experience Ed....
Your like the E.F. Hutton of speakers.....please don't ever stop typing.
I never would have thought that I would be diluting the beauty of one speaker by mixing it with another....I always just pictured getting the 'best of both worlds'
Someday I'll hit the lottery and buy me and lego one of those Blues.
-
The idea of the best of both worlds is a definite possibility in speakers, but this is why I prefer a center board in a 2, 12. That being said, it is impossible to keep the from mixing in front, but it helps. The Jensen speaker in the 2 12 setup I tested really shinned in the mids. I am not a big fan of Jensens, but some amps really love them there is no denying that. They always bring a vintage feel.
Here is why it works. The Jensen is not as efficient and the highs naturally become more apparent as efficiency rises in speakers (generally speaking, there are intentional exceptions). The Jensens added a vintage feel in the mids and are not as efficient, so did not overpower. Similar to using the same speaker, you get more of the same things, but here you get more of a different thing while keeping the Celestion Blue in-front. Don't tell me about costs. Everyone who complains about the cost if Celestion Blues has wasted more money than that testing cheaper speakers. Here is a thought. have you ever heard anyone say they did not like them? Craigslist is your friend, sometimes. Do not be afraid of blown ones either which I find often. Orange County speakers will recone them using original parts and after breakin you cannot tell the difference.
Sorry as I feel like I am hijacking, but we are building amps that need speaker discussion.
Lego- a 12AU7 is cheap. You can still find new in box RCA on ebay for less the $20. No one is really looking for them. I bought 10, 2 5 packs from a guy at a Hamfest for $3. They are RCA black plates which really doesn't matter in this slot. Just a good NOS tube will do.
-
:sad2: Spent over another hour with that :cussing: rotary switch, Im done. I'm gonna order the regular switch and keep that original. I tightened up pins in the ceramic tube holders, they felt loose. Played some more and noticed when in vibrato channel the normal volume acts like a master vol. I don't remember if its supposed to do that. It plays perfectly Sluckey. I have to cut slot for the IEC plug. Im done for today, time to get ready for hockey game.
LETS GO RANGERS
-
I lied, I had to get the plug done, it was irking me. (http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/5703D919-B0B9-4188-8D3A-7B10426CC207_zpsxhgcruoz.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/5703D919-B0B9-4188-8D3A-7B10426CC207_zpsxhgcruoz.jpg.html)(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/76170D7E-F592-4557-8A55-C73AA664958D_zpsyjtmmvyf.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/76170D7E-F592-4557-8A55-C73AA664958D_zpsyjtmmvyf.jpg.html) I didn't wire it in but it's in
-
Looks real nice.
Brad :icon_biggrin:
-
Who had that link to the mini chicken head knobs?
Lionel, I can't see the pics as I'm blocked at work but I jumped on for your question
http://www.smallbearelec.com/servlet/Detail?no=1190 (http://www.smallbearelec.com/servlet/Detail?no=1190)
Congrat's though. I'll check it out at home.
-
I ordered 2 NOS RCA cleartop side getters 12AU7 and a NOS Japanese 6BQ5/EL84/7189 matched pair to try out on the amp. Im gonna order the cabinet and just might have to bite the bullet on that speaker Ed. I just got to refill my bank acct :laugh: On another note I was going thru my box of parts and came up with these tubes, They came out of an old heathkit(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/fe27d94b-57c0-4b6d-8087-4ecc81e9098c_zps1c2251e5.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/fe27d94b-57c0-4b6d-8087-4ecc81e9098c_zps1c2251e5.jpg.html) I know jack about tubes other then what Im learning now with you guys and my researching. These worth buiding into something? Maybe subbing into something?
-
Thanks TN, did you start your build yet? thanks for the link.
-
Thanks TN, did you start your build yet? thanks for the link.
No man, funds are tight for the moment. I just got a new Jeep Wrangler a few months back and in a few months either I replace the stock shatty stereo system or I use that money to start to purchase parts. I commute about 1.5-2 hours each day to work so that car stereo just ain't cutting it. So this one may be awhile.
But, since 3 dudes got it fired up that totally encourages me that I could get it done.
-
Doug is considering making this board available so you wouldn't have to make one yourself but that was part of whole experience
-
Deleted
-
Ok Sluckey I'm gonna give that switch a go again because of your kindness. I completely took all parts of so its only switch again and will slowley give a go again. I did mine on a 21 1/2'' but you guys with lots of builds shouldn't have a problem. with the long board version and board over tranny poke throughs why not. Im not sure if board can or cant be over certain trannies tho. Someone is gonna have to do a cardboard mock up
-
I know it was mentioned on the previous page, but is confidence level high that this would go in a 17" chassis? I would be interested to hear if anyone is trying it yet.
I would not attempt to put the long board version in a 17" chassis. But, the version lego built was designed to fit a 17" chassis. It would be tight and require a lot of planning, but it worked on paper and I believe it would work on a real box.
-
Lego, post a closeup pic of the terminal end of that switch now that its stripped clean. I'll see if I can help. It really is a worthwhile mod.
-
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/95f82b31-e2bf-4c53-97e3-769dff58a151_zps0213f4bb.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/95f82b31-e2bf-4c53-97e3-769dff58a151_zps0213f4bb.jpg.html)(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/16628a03-4afb-41e1-a2a6-a1b90ea182ce_zps668a8e22.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/16628a03-4afb-41e1-a2a6-a1b90ea182ce_zps668a8e22.jpg.html)
-
:happy1: I got the rotary switch to work, you were right Sluckey, totally worth it. I gotta blow some air and clean contact tabs, slight scratchiness.
-
:icon_biggrin:
-
I've compiled all the mods I have made into one file and put it on my website...
http://home.comcast.net/~seluckey/amps/VAC15/Vox_AC15_mods.pdf (http://home.comcast.net/~seluckey/amps/VAC15/Vox_AC15_mods.pdf)
-
Very GREAT Job Steve :bump1:
:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
Franco
-
Bump!!
This thread is not done. I am just having to take a break. I have some new stuff coming after a while. Least I hope so.
-
If you just add the .022 if onto the board parallel to the .01 you'll get the swamp sound but does it effect the faster speed? I'd rather not have to buy another pot. Also Sluckey I seen in Merlin's book for adding a attenuator, It would be nice to be able to get the tube distortion at a lower volume.
-
If you just add the .022 if onto the board parallel to the .01 you'll get the swamp sound but does it effect the faster speed? I'd rather not have to buy another pot.
However you add the cap will slow down the entire speed range. You won't be able to get that real fast trem. But, you may find a cap value that gives you a range that you prefer. Remember, the original only gave you a choice of 3 speeds!
You don't need the switched pot, I just thought that's a cool way to do it and if I were to build another, I'd get the switched pot. But look at my pics. You'll see that I installed a speed range switch right next to the footswitch jack. I used a DPDT switch just because it gave me a very convenient place to hang the cap. All you really need is a SPST switch.
It would be nice to be able to get the tube distortion at a lower volume.
I'm getting plenty of tube breakup at low volume, so much that I replaced my 12AX7s with 5751s. My low volume may be too loud for bedroom or apartment dwellers though! :icon_biggrin:
-
I do love that swampness.
-
I just scanned this thread, but I didn't see any sound clips. Has anyone recorded this thing yet and posted clips for us to hear?
-
I got some new old tubes to throw in (http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/02027c73-a6d3-498c-ab03-86fca0ef2ec7_zps6c363438.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/02027c73-a6d3-498c-ab03-86fca0ef2ec7_zps6c363438.jpg.html)from the early 60's (http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/86870960-061e-4b03-a82d-1d9d197d9bf3_zps1ef71357.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/86870960-061e-4b03-a82d-1d9d197d9bf3_zps1ef71357.jpg.html) clear top for the wiggle channel
-
I tried a little experiment today. I cascaded the NOR preamp into the VIB channel. Plenty of tube distortion that can be dialed back with the guitar volume control. You guys should give it a try to see if it's worthwhile. It sounds good to me but I don't trust my ears. Easy to do.
Just disconnect the wire from the wiper of the NOR volume control. Now connect a jumper (I used a gator clip lead) between the NOR volume control wiper and the tip of the VIB input jack. Put a 'dummy' 1/4" plug in the VIB input jack and plug the guitar into the NOR jack. Start pickin' and twiddle the knobs to suit.
I also cascaded the VIB into the NOR channel but didn't like it as much. If you guys will try this and let me know if you think it's worthwhile I'll draw up a mod to make it switchable.
-
Been doing it since I built it. It is only good normal to vib as mentioned. Surgery done and I cannot do much today. It went very well as the Surgeon said. I have some recovery time so I am learning to use a USB Microphone Mixcraft on Windows. I have been using Pro Tools for a long time, but just too much for recording an amp so you can hear it.
You are liking the AS15 aren't you? I knew you would. Did you get the cab you are drooling over. Makes a huge difference running a Blue.
-
:worthy1: I'll give that a try after I listen to the tubes I swapped out. Been busy w work and revibe, will post progress pic
-
You lovers need to book a room.. you remind my of a guy who just works on race cars , because he's afraid to drive them himself.
-
You lovers need to book a room.. you remind my of a guy who just works on race cars , because he's afraid to drive them himself.
Interesting comment?
-
Hey Sluckey how about putting that mod into a switch? Maybe put it on the back panel
-
I recommend putting the switch on the front panel between the input jacks. That will keep all wires short.
-
Shorter wires = less noise :thumbsup: I brought board and parts home to work on it but I wound up going stripe bass/bluefish fishing and yesterday was a busy day as well as today :sad2:
-
Your getting rid of norm jack all together, hmmmmm
-
Your getting rid of norm jack all together, hmmmmm
No! I simply removed the NOR jack and the VIB vol pot from the drawing since they were not involved in the mod. You will be plugged into the NOR jack whenever you want to flip the cascade switch.
-
Ok makes sense, thanks for help
-
You lovers need to book a room.. you remind my of a guy who just works on race cars , because he's afraid to drive them himself.
Interesting comment?
I do not understand the comment. I can say this thread is packed full of valuable information on a wonderful amp that few have have ever built and gotten right. I can assure you the one I build it right on the money. Open forums are just that and the coolest thing of all is no one has to read anything they do not want to read.
Thanks for continuing your thoughts and ideas. These tidbits are really adding to the versatility of the AC15 while keeping the original in tact. I would say this is a perfect mod. If there are no photos or sound clips, it did not happen so the one I have does not make a sound if it falls in the woods. :laugh:
-
Ed hoes are those blue celestion holding up? I got side tracked with Sluckey's revibe build then I got side tracked with some health issues. Seems I might have the big "C" but if I do I have the best one. So my mind is not all in one place at the moment
-
I do not understand the comment. I can say this thread is packed full of valuable information on a wonderful amp that few have ever built and gotten right. I can assure you the one I build it right on the money.
+1, I agree.
Brad :icon_biggrin:
-
Is there a way to get a 2nd phase shift stage on the vibrato with out using another 1 1/2 tubes (3 triodes)?
The 1st triode splits the guitar signal into Hi/Low then the modulator (2 triodes) has the trem signal applied (dual phase from the plate and cathode) to it's grids and that's where the phase shift happens, right?
So to get a 2nd phase shift stage you'd have to split the guitar signal Hi/Low again and then feed it to another modulator tube?
Brad :think1:
-
Wait, what would happen if the signal from the modulator tubes plates was not mixed and sent to another modulator tubes grids?
Still would be a split Hi/Low signal fed to the modulators grids that are receiving 180 degree out of phase signals from the trem tubes plate and cathode. (Maybe the dual phase inverters trem signal would have to be flipped at the 2nd modulator tubes grids?)
Can't be that easy.
Maybe it can't be done at all with this type of vibrato circuit?
Brad :think1:
-
You lost me
-
The vibrato in that amp is true pitch shift.
More pitch shift stages sounds thicker.
Sluckeys 'Warbler' has 3 stages, some Maggi amps have 2 and some Maggie amps have only 1 stage of pitch shift. The old UniVibe SS pedal that Jimmi used was/is a 4 stage.
I built the Warbler and it sounds great to me. Very thick, full and lush sounding.
Brad :icon_biggrin:
-
Look in here for a description of how 1 of the Fender versions works, 2nd to last page.
http://home.comcast.net/~seluckey/amps/misc/Amp_Scrapbook.pdf (http://home.comcast.net/~seluckey/amps/misc/Amp_Scrapbook.pdf)
Brad :icon_biggrin:
-
The Vox circuit works more like the Warbler than the Fender harmonic vibrator.
-
I'm waiting to hear back from a cabinet maker, he made my first cab and I wanted to give him first shot. I'm looking at putting it in a 5E5A TV front cabinet with the grills on top because of chassis build. He built one and has it on his gallery page and it's beautiful. I also swapped and put in some NOS tubes and had a issue? Wound up being that damn cap rotary switch. I put original switch back w 220pf and it's perfect. I put in a recommended 12au7 and was blown away. This is what I used(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/5E3FBBB0-B7B2-4012-AB48-34852916EF2B_zpsggfbkfct.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/5E3FBBB0-B7B2-4012-AB48-34852916EF2B_zpsggfbkfct.jpg.html). I am not tweaking another thing on this amp till I get cab and speaker. I am playing thru a sh*t speaker in a cardboard box at my shop and I gave it the How Soon Is Now Tremolo test and was floored
-
Added the Swamp switch and really dig it in both tremolo and vibrato. My only thought is I'm not hearing any difference on depth between 1-4ish. The slowest hits about 4 and is great but no lower after that and vise versa
-
Steve, what effect will the B+standby have in sound or tone? Is it to give me a cleaner sound at louder volumes? What kind of DPDT switch is it & wattage of that resistor? Also this combo off amp and Revibe is awesome, it would make an interesting project to combine the two, loose the tremolo section and use the Revibe tremolo and verb instead
-
I don't hear any change in sound. Maybe if the amp was cranked up you would hear more sag with the lower voltage? Doug sells the switch. He calls it "Carling DPST Switch" and describes it as a "3 Position toggle switch used for Off-Standby-Play". I used a 10 watt resistor from my junk bin. Doug has the resistor also.
IMO this mod ain't worth the cost of the parts.
That revibe sounds great with a clean amp too. If you are really interested in an AC-15 lite, I highly recommend getting a Hammond AO-39 from eBay. Easy to convert and sounds just as good as the real thing.
-
This is where I differ from Sluckey on the voltage. I finally just kept the voltage dropped as the amp is not quite as bright and the cut control doesn't have to be turned up so much which in turn allows the amp to have a more open feel. To me, when the cut control is too high the amp sounds a tad dull. Also the amp breaks up by touch easier and is more forgiving since the attack is slower. Of course everyone likes different things, but most all of the EL84 amps I have played are a tad ice pickey. This one is not, even if the brilliance is very high and using single coil.
We all do like different things. I absolutely love the wiggle in the AC-15 as it seems to complement the amp without overpowering it, but I have only heard clips of the revibe.
-
Thanks for the feedback. I will save my few bucks on that mod then. I hope to pick up some boards this weekend for heads
-
Oh Ed, you just hard wired your amp for the cascade or did you use switch?
-
I would trust Ed's judgment about the sound differences with lower voltage. He still has good ears and a ton of experience concerning how amps sound. My hearing loss is a big disadvantage in the sound department.
For the past two weeks I've been playing all my amps thru a Weber 12" California mounted in a home made Leslie cab. I'm really liking that sound! And the Leslie cab takes care of the brightness of the Cali.
-
Weber Cali? Need to read up on them Webers Again. All my big building is on hold, wife got laid off last month and doesn't start her new job till next week.
-
I added the cascade today
-
Oh Ed, you just hard wired your amp for the cascade or did you use switch?
Just wired, no switch. I had it on a 2 button Footswitch and found after playing I was using it all the time this way. I remember when I had my original 63 I kept it jumped. It really does not add much difference in tone it just makes everything available all the time.
I wanted to play it for a while as I knew it was going to be one of my 2 main amps. I always use 2 as I have mentioned many times. I have a 6V6 amp with 2, 10's. It is based on the AA1164 Princeton Reverb which I use as my "Wet" amp and the Vox is now my dry amp since it distorts very easily. The fender style amp has much more headroom and is much cleaner which IMO sounds much better with pedals.
Wrote that to say I have not done my final tweaking. I don't really like Mods on an amp just for the sake of it. If I do not use it in a live situation I do not add the mod because if I am recording I simply use another amp with the sound I really want. I have found the Brilliance switch to be great with added flexibility. Moving the footswitch wire for instant on wiggle is a good mod as well, if you want to call it a mod. Slowing the tremolo and I changed the pot from Audio to linear because of preference.
So after using it for a little while this is all I want the amp to do because it does it very well. It is really nice combining the 2 amps. I have been working on a design for a long time that uses 2 EL84 and 2 6V6 and this has really helped me as I have never really focused on the EL84 much. What is interesting is I much prefer a split load PI on the 6V6, but I prefer a LTPI using EL84.
-
I cannot for the life of me wire that rotary switch correctly :BangHead: I have a problem with all those tabs and getting them correct. I would like to put it on the vox tho. I am digging thru parts for the Stout as my next project
-
For the past two weeks I've been playing all my amps thru a Weber 12" California
Sluckey - Does your California speaker have a metal dome? Is your Leslie cab on your website somewhere? If not, would you mind describing what you did with it? I have a couple of Model 122 cabs (no horns) that would be fun to play with.
BTW - I am about 60% done with the board for this amp. Hoping to join you all in narvana soon!! :laugh:
FWIW - I think this thread is great - been very inspiring to me!! Thanks to lego (hope the health stuff all works out well!!).
Thanks.
-
Does your California speaker have a metal dome? Is your Leslie cab on your website somewhere?
Yes, I have the aluminum dome. It sounds very bright (I might say ice pick bright if I had good ears) with a strong bottom. The Leslie cab tames the brightness considerably, much more than a regular speaker cab. I just put the project on my website today.
BTW, I'm not advocating pairing a Weber Cali with the AC-15. I still want a Celestion Blue for the AC-15. But, the AC-15 just happened to be on the bench when I started the Leslie project. So, it's had a good workout thru the Leslie. I do think the Weber Cali is a good choice for the Leslie though. Of all the amps I've tried with the Leslie, I like my AB763 TDR best.
http://home.comcast.net/~seluckey/amps/leslie/leslie.htm (http://home.comcast.net/~seluckey/amps/leslie/leslie.htm)
-
Sluckey -- Great info thanks very much for posting! I also have a 12" Cali with "the dome". Have had trouble finding a good home for it - sounds like I found it!!
-
Steve I borrowed your idea and cut some flooring down and put a coat of concoction on it. This is the old faceplate on it and I have some other ideas to pretty it up. I might want to add a top cover of sorts.
-
Some things don't need to be hidden in a box. That looks pretty classy. It's just right to show it off.
-
Thanks, I'll finish plate this week and hopefully get me some wood for Your AC head
-
A little prettying up, I haven't had much time to do anything lately except this quarter round stained atop off pan
-
...If there are no photos or sound clips, it did not happen so the one I have does not make a sound if it falls in the woods. :laugh:
Will we ever get to see or hear your AC15?
-
Yes, I will get it done. I have been putting off taking it apart, but I have been recording. It is just a crappy version of yours! :l2:
Problem is I am lazy with the photos and move onto other things. I have been playing the snot out of the thing. I will take it apart and get some photos of the Lead dress so you can get that feeling of arousal. You want cabinet photos as well?
Actually, I have built 4 amps since that one, but it is the most special and turned out really good and now I am doing some layouts for the new EL34 builds.
-
Hi.
Has anyone of you posted a video or soundfile somewhere to hear or see these Sluckey's AC15s?
What budget did you guys invest on this project (just the working chassis, not the cab and speaker(s))
Thanks! After a Revibe build, this looks like my next project... :help:
-
I haven't seen/heard any sound clips. I used my Matchless Lightning as a donor and I had most other parts on hand. I only bought board material and a chassis. So I don't have a good idea of the cost. Lego or Ed may have a better cost idea.
-
This build will run you close to the 300-500$ range depending on how you chose your parts. You can spend 1.50 for a Mallory cap or 15 bucks for a Jupiter cap, it's up to you. The parts list page here http://hoffmanamps.com/MyStore/perlshop.cgi?ACTION=enter&thispage=Amp_AC15Parts.htm&ORDER_ID= (http://hoffmanamps.com/MyStore/perlshop.cgi?ACTION=enter&thispage=Amp_AC15Parts.htm&ORDER_ID=)!ORDERID! Give parts and total cost minus transformers and tubes. So with those added you will be in the 500+range. I can honestly say I don't need to build anymore amps since I built the AC15, it is heaven sent. I added the tremolo mod to drop the speed even more and I am blown away. I rebuilt my champ clone into Hoffmans stout and I just finished a hifi stereo tube amp for my home. Thanks Doug and Steve for this expensive addiction :worthy1:
-
This build will run you close to the 300-500$ range depending on how you chose your parts. You can spend 1.50 for a Mallory cap or 15 bucks for a Jupiter cap, it's up to you. The parts list page here http://hoffmanamps.com/MyStore/perlshop.cgi?ACTION=enter&thispage=Amp_AC15Parts.htm&ORDER_ID= (http://hoffmanamps.com/MyStore/perlshop.cgi?ACTION=enter&thispage=Amp_AC15Parts.htm&ORDER_ID=)!ORDERID! Give parts and total cost minus transformers and tubes. So with those added you will be in the 500+range. I can honestly say I don't need to build anymore amps since I built the AC15, it is heaven sent. I added the tremolo mod to drop the speed even more and I am blown away. I rebuilt my champ clone into Hoffmans stout and I just finished a hifi stereo tube amp for my home. Thanks Doug and Steve for this expensive addiction :worthy1:
Sweet. It is about the same price range as a Revibe then. The transformers are costlier though, even Hammonds. You seem to really like it. I have built all the Fenders and Marshalls (over 30) and a Trainwreck Express but no Vox yet... I'm tempted.
Good Lord, I'm getting started again...
Did you build it as a head or as a 1X12 or 2X12 combo? If so, what speaker did you choose?
Thanks!
-
I built mine for a head but still haven't gotten one for it. I am using a 12" for it now, it's made by VOM(guitar warehouse) and I can't complain. Sluckey swears by his 12" celestion blue after trying the amp with different speakers but that is close to 300 by itself. I love the Revibe I built, I had an issue with it but it was a matter of finding the right tube for V4
-
I built mine for a head but still haven't gotten one for it. I am using a 12" for it now, it's made by VOM(guitar warehouse) and I can't complain. Sluckey swears by his 12" celestion blue after trying the amp with different speakers but that is close to 300 by itself. I love the Revibe I built, I had an issue with it but it was a matter of finding the right tube for V4
I have a big 1X12 cab with an EVM12L. I may build this AC15 as a head as well. It's safer for tubes as well and avoid some vibrations on the components. A small 1X12 or 1X10 combo would be easier and more portable though. I also have an old EVM10S at hand. Oh well... So many possibilities, so little money... :sad2:
What I'd be interested in knowing is the dynamics of the amp and its headroom. Does it distort soon or can you really have lush cleans with it? I mean with small wattage amps generally they sound great between 8 and 10 on the guitar volume knob, but if you go below 8, the sound gets really thin and bad. You lose all the body of the sound. You don't get that with 50w amps and above. With a 100w amp you can use your guitar volume between 1 and 10. It's actually easier. With a 15w, your rhythm sound is on 8 and your lead sound is on 10. That's a very tiny space there and can be tricky to dial in while on stage. How does that amp behave in that regard? Is it good all the way?
Thanks!
-
I haven't gigged the amp, I play it at home and my kin wouldn't be happy if I put this amp to 8. I will tell you it is LOUD and clean with that expected Vox sound. Did you read through this whole thread? Sluckey talks about his sounds and how it performs. Shoot him a PM
-
I haven't gigged the amp, I play it at home and my kin wouldn't be happy if I put this amp to 8. I will tell you it is LOUD and clean with that expected Vox sound. Did you read through this whole thread? Sluckey talks about his sounds and how it performs. Shoot him a PM
I read the beginning (pages 1 and 2) and the end (page 14)... lol. I will read through the 14 pages lego. Thanks!
Just to reassure you: my neighbours came knocing at my door yesterday to complain about "noise" (I quote them!) after seven minutes sharp of playing my tweed Champ 5F1 clone... :w2: :BangHead: I had built it to avoid any complaints... :sad2:
-
Even a champ is to powerful. You can build a 1/2 watt amp and get incredible sounds
-
Sluckey swears by his 12" celestion blue
No, that's Ed. I'd love to have one based on his praise but so far I've just been too cheap.
Sluckey talks about his sounds and how it performs.
No, that's Ed too. I'm just a bedroom/shop picker for the last 35 years. I do crank it up in the shop occasionally and play for the neighbors across the street. I do like the way it sounds. I like the vibrato but prefer the normal channel.
I read the beginning (pages 1 and 2) and the end (page 14)... lol.
It's a looong thread. There are some nuggets scattered throughout the discussion but there's a lot of stuff like this reply. If you squeezed all the cream it would probably fill up one or two pages.
-
Yes, it's a lot of stuff to look thru but it's a nice crowd here. My last build and I have a Hammond 290cax still in the box waiting for a home.
-
I built mine for a head but still haven't gotten one for it. I am using a 12" for it now, it's made by VOM(guitar warehouse) and I can't complain. Sluckey swears by his 12" celestion blue after trying the amp with different speakers but that is close to 300 by itself. I love the Revibe I built, I had an issue with it but it was a matter of finding the right tube for V4
I have a big 1X12 cab with an EVM12L. I may build this AC15 as a head as well. It's safer for tubes as well and avoid some vibrations on the components. A small 1X12 or 1X10 combo would be easier and more portable though. I also have an old EVM10S at hand. Oh well... So many possibilities, so little money... :sad2:
What I'd be interested in knowing is the dynamics of the amp and its headroom. Does it distort soon or can you really have lush cleans with it? I mean with small wattage amps generally they sound great between 8 and 10 on the guitar volume knob, but if you go below 8, the sound gets really thin and bad. You lose all the body of the sound. You don't get that with 50w amps and above. With a 100w amp you can use your guitar volume between 1 and 10. It's actually easier. With a 15w, your rhythm sound is on 8 and your lead sound is on 10. That's a very tiny space there and can be tricky to dial in while on stage. How does that amp behave in that regard? Is it good all the way?
Thanks!
if you are planning to Gig the amp at 15 watts, you will have to be playing with a mature drummer and a nice sound system as it will need to be mic'd.
It is Vox all the way. I have tried many speakers. Altec, Many Webers. The amp needs a darker speaker like a Celestion Blue, but it sounds great with a Vintage 30. A greenback is too bright. EV's are too piano like for the Normal Channel and do not sound vox like.
I had an original 63 I sold many years ago. It had all the problems. I used a 1, 12" over-sized cabinet with a convertible back. You can see mine here:
http://el34world.com/Forum/index.php?topic=17903.0 (http://el34world.com/Forum/index.php?topic=17903.0)
I use it for gigs along with a Fender based 2, 10. It is close to the same wattage, but 6v6.
The EF86 channel does not have wiggle on it so you have to jump channels to get tones like Green River, but it does it well.
If I were planning to use it as a large gig amp I would add 2 more tubes and get a 30 watt OT with 8 and 16 ohm taps. Then I could have a 2 12 cab for 30 watts and pull 2 tubes and use a 1 12 for 15 watts.
-
Ed I didn't have a chance to read thru that link to much but who made that sweet head for you AC15? I want to leave mine out but with kids in the house I don't want to until it has a home
-
Thanks Ed for your insight on this build! Yes I plan to rehearse and gig with it. I don't think I need an AC30 it would be too damn loud. I play in small clubs with no more than 100 persons. Most of the time, they're only 50. I would kill everybody with an AC30. We do have a PA system and I always mike my amps, even when I play loud ones (30 watts and above). I use a Sennheiser E906 for that and we have EV PA speakers.
What about dynamics Ed? How does it respond to playing with the guitar volume knobs? Does the sound collapse below 8/10 on the guitar?
I know the EVM12L is neutral. Some hate them for that reason, I love them for that same reason. The fact that they don't colour the sound of the amp at all is what makes me love them. Plus the fact that with 200w of power a single unit can handle any amp. I don't need two or more speakers to handle a big Marshall 100w amp. My 1X12 with my EVM12L is good enough!
Well, I need to save a little and then I'll launch this AC15 project. I hope Hammond offers a EU PT, I need 230V here.
Thanks again!
-
Thanks Ed for your insight on this build! Yes I plan to rehearse and gig with it. I don't think I need an AC30 it would be too damn loud. I play in small clubs with no more than 100 persons. Most of the time, they're only 50. I would kill everybody with an AC30. We do have a PA system and I always mike my amps, even when I play loud ones (30 watts and above). I use a Sennheiser E906 for that and we have EV PA speakers.
What about dynamics Ed? How does it respond to playing with the guitar volume knobs? Does the sound collapse below 8/10 on the guitar?
I know the EVM12L is neutral. Some hate them for that reason, I love them for that same reason. The fact that they don't colour the sound of the amp at all is what makes me love them. Plus the fact that with 200w of power a single unit can handle any amp. I don't need two or more speakers to handle a big Marshall 100w amp. My 1X12 with my EVM12L is good enough!
Well, I need to save a little and then I'll launch this AC15 project. I hope Hammond offers a EU PT, I need 230V here.
Thanks again!
I ride the knobs a lot. The normal channel with the EF86 is extremely sensitive and if pushed becomes very mid focused, you know normal pentode reaction.
The vibrato channel needs to be hit hard to break loose. The tremolo and vibrato are very focused and the channel is tight but the EL84's still distort easily as they will.
If you are playing pubs it is a cool amp. I have played in very small rooms with it. Being it is a head/cabinet I can turn the cabinet towards the wall so I can crank the amp then mixed at the PA.
-
Hey folks-
I've been reading this thread for a few weeks getting ready to build one of these. I'm wondering about the difference between jumping and cascading the channels. Jumping puts them in parallel, so you've got them both at once. Cascading puts them in series, so you've got both at once with two gain stages. Could you use a sort of selector switch along with a series-parallel switch to be able to have all options (either channel on its own, both in parallel, or both in series) with a single input?
I tried to attach an image, but it doesn't show up in the preview, so I hope it works.
I've only made a couple of amps so far, both from kits that included fairly complete instructions. Those were a Tweed Deluxe and a JTM45+, both from tubedepot.com. I figure that, once I have a Vox clone, I'll have all the classic 60s amps I need. I may be in way over my head on this one, but it's time to go off road, so to speak.
Thanks,
Michael Bonner
-
Could you use a sort of selector switch along with a series-parallel switch to be able to have all options (either channel on its own, both in parallel, or both in series) with a single input?
You could probably do it with a single input jack and this 3 pole 4 position rotary switch...
https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/P-H394 (https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/P-H394)
You may want to start a new thread if this project gets kicked off. Sometimes new stuff gets buried in long threads like this one. I'm interested to see what you come up with.
-
Is this what the vibrato sounds like on the amps you guys built? (1st 30 seconds of the clip.)
I think it sounds great!
http://youtu.be/qOyvfdvGQCI (http://youtu.be/qOyvfdvGQCI)
Brad :think1:
-
Is this what the vibrato sounds like on the amps you guys built? (1st 30 seconds of the clip.)
I think it sounds great!
No really, I wasn't trying to be funny.
I don't recall you guys saying the you liked vibrato all that much? (Maybe Ed did?) I seem to remember Sluckey saying he liked the Revibe he built as his favorite?
Maybe it's just me but I think that short clip of the Vox is a really great sounding vibrato.
Brad :dontknow:
-
Yes, that's the vibrato sound. The tremolo mode is more conventional but does sound better than Fender's roach or bias vary trem.
I played with the vib channel a lot in the beginning but then just kinda forgot about it. The vibrato effect is great (in fact, that's why I built this amp) but the lack of tone control makes the vib channel sound kinda ho-hum. I much prefer the EF86 normal channel to the sound of the vib channel. I think Ed likes to jump the two channels.
The AC15 vibrato sound is very similar to my Maggie, but I prefer the sound of my revibe over the AC15.
-
running the vibrato with some speed you get quite a bit of depth.
So only sounds good or sounds much better at faster speeds, depth wise?
Brad :think1:
-
Yes, that's the vibrato sound.
Well I'll be, thanks. Nobody posted a sound clip so I didn't know.
(see the above post with quote.)
Brad :icon_biggrin:
-
...I'm noticing my normal channel is louder then my vibrato channel, if i put vib on 2 and play then plug it in to normal on 2 its way louder.
The normal channel is considerably hotter than the Vibrato channel. Ed and I both noticed that. I don't think there is anything wrong, just the nature of the EF86 channel.
The vibrato effect is great (in fact, that's why I built this amp) but the lack of tone control makes the vib channel sound kinda ho-hum.
In the trem/vibrato circuit, V1b only has 22K for a plate R. Couldn't V1a/b be set up like a Fender BF 2 stage input with a tone stack (B/T) ? Put 100K for a plate R on V1b with maybe even K bypass cap to help increase gain to make up for the TS losses? (Unless the K bypass cap will mess with V1b's boot strap?)
Might even have a little more gain then the Vox circuit did stock even with the TS?
Brad :think1:
-
In the trem/vibrato circuit, V1b only has 22K for a plate R. Couldn't V1a/b be set up like a Fender BF 2 stage input with a tone stack (B/T) ? Put 100K for a plate R on V1b with maybe even K bypass cap to help increase gain to make up for the TS losses? (Unless the K bypass cap will mess with V1b's boot strap?)
V1B is a standard cathodyne phase inverter (same as V6B). You need two equal amplitude but opposite phase instrument signals to work with the two opposite phase vibrato modulation signals.
I had looked at trying to increase the gain. V1A is about the only candidate and it's already running pretty high. Anyhow, it's not like there isn't enough gain, just that the normal channel is much hotter when the volume controls are set to the same number. It was just an observation and never really bothered me. I guess an easy fix would be to use a linear taper volume control for the VIB channel! :icon_biggrin:
-
Yes, that's the vibrato sound. The tremolo mode is more conventional but does sound better than Fender's roach or bias vary trem.
I played with the vib channel a lot in the beginning but then just kinda forgot about it. The vibrato effect is great (in fact, that's why I built this amp) but the lack of tone control makes the vib channel sound kinda ho-hum. I much prefer the EF86 normal channel to the sound of the vib channel. I think Ed likes to jump the two channels.
The AC15 vibrato sound is very similar to my Maggie, but I prefer the sound of my revibe over the AC15.
I have the channels jumped all the time. They are not out of phase either. :l2:
I am planning to install the switching for the cascode, but I am leaving the channels jumped. With both you can use the EF86 preamp along with the wiggle for the pentode tone. Really nice.
-
V1B is a standard cathodyne phase inverter (same as V6B).
That's right, I know that. :w2: But all cathodyne PI's are not the same in output. So if not signal voltage gain then current drive?
Anyhow, it's not like there isn't enough gain, just that the normal channel is much hotter when the volume controls are set to the same number.
Do you think there's enough gain to slip a BF T/B TS in between V1a and V1b?
Brad :think1:
-
But all cathodyne PI's are not the same in output. So if not signal voltage gain then current drive?
This PI is not being used for voltage or current gain. It's being used to develop two equal but opposite phase signals to work with the vibrato modulator.
Do you think there's enough gain to slip a BF T/B TS in between V1a and V1b?
No way. You would need a post gain stage just like the Fender amps. I got plenty of Fender amps already.
It was always my goal to faithfully reproduce the AC-15 circuit as far as the signal path is concerned. The only mod I have in the signal path is the 6 position Brilliance switch and both extreme positions function exactly the same as the original Brilliance switch. The trem mods only dealt with providing more control over the speed and depth. The original only had a 3 position speed switch and no depth control.
-
Ok, thanks.
Brad :icon_biggrin:
-
How about this? Think it will work?
For the cost of 1 extra 12AX7; BF TS- T/M/B, volume and 2nd stage of phase shift. (Not a Vox anymore but still usefull?)
Brad :think1:
-
It's being used to develop two equal but opposite phase signals to work with the vibrato modulator.
I think I see what I've been missing.
The modulator's 2 triode's are being turned on/off, opposite of each other by the LFO driver's plate and K. So because of that, it's 'picking' which R/C network from the plate or K (low pass/hi pass) from the preceding stage will be amplified.
So what I drew up only the 2nd stage will have phase shift/pitch shift vibrato because the 1st stage is not being modulated.
I printed up the Vox, 3 Maggies and Bandmaster 6G7A. Then I drew them all out along with the Warbler I already had drawn out, to study them.
I'll go back and print out what you wrote in your scrap book on trem/vibrato. I think I'll understand it a little better now.
My Gibby GA77 is all most finished, all I have left to wire up are the front panel controls. So I'm looking for something new to build.
I'll start a new post on this for a new build and leave this thread alone.
Brad :icon_biggrin:
-
How about this? Think it will work?
That won't work. Coming out of the first cathodyne you are mixing the out of phase plate and cathode signals back together. Those signals will cancel (unless you are doing this to Ed's amp :icon_biggrin: )
For the cost of 1 extra 12AX7
For the cost of one less 12AX7, you could have a nice Dumble. :wink:
So I'm looking for something new to build.
Are you wanting to use the AC-15 vibrato circuit in another type amp but also have a good tonestack too?
-
How about this? Think it will work?
That won't work. Coming out of the first cathodyne you are mixing the out of phase plate and cathode signals back together. Those signals will cancel (unless you are doing this to Ed's amp :icon_biggrin: )
What is soooooooooooooo hard about adding a triode? Maybe even a FET since it is a vibrato shouldn't HAVE to be a tube.
Also, how do you guys make those multiple quote sections?
-
I just click the quote icon.
-
Are you wanting to use the AC-15 vibrato circuit in another type amp but also have a good tonestack too?
Yes. :icon_biggrin:
I'll have to build it to hear it for myself.
I don't care about a pentode preamp gain stage and just want to play around with the vibrato channel.
I'm not big on EL84's, 34's or Dumbles or heavy gain or crunch. I listen to it, things with that tone sometimes but I don't really have a desire to sound like that. When I was in my 20's I did. :laugh:
I'll come up with something with 6V6's.
Brad :icon_biggrin:
-
Looking forward to see your project.
-
Thanks :icon_biggrin:
-
I know there is tons of funs in doing my own board but did Doug offer up the longboard version of this amp?
Whew, I just reveiwed all 14 pages, every word. That took awhile. I had to catch up and readjust my mind. Took a crap ton of notes. Now I have to organize my thoughts and plan. I need to sell a few things for some dough for this one....or listen to my wife go nuts again and just start stocking up on stuff :help:
I took a siesta from building most of last year (small amount of burn out) but man was my wife happy.
Oh, just a thought but for those that start new threads on this project it would be cool to link them to this one for ease of finding I guess. So if someone uses the search engine we know this one should pull but will all the others? I guess it depends on how good the search function is and that I don't know here since I haven't used it much.
-
Oh, just a thought but for those that start new threads on this project it would be cool to link them to this one for ease of finding I guess.
Sure, that would be good.
Brad :icon_biggrin:
-
... but did Doug offer up the longboard version of this amp?
Yes.
http://hoffmanamps.com/MyStore/perlshop.cgi?ACTION=enter&thispage=TurretBoard.htm&ORDER_ID= (http://hoffmanamps.com/MyStore/perlshop.cgi?ACTION=enter&thispage=TurretBoard.htm&ORDER_ID=)!ORDERID!
Items 11, 12, 13, and 14. You can get the long board with or without wire pass-thru holes.
-
Steve, I don't know if it is work that blocks this or not but that link is giving me an error.
I shall poke around
Is it too lazy to not drill my own :dontknow: I do like to do things from scratch but I'm also going to build my own speaker and head cab for it and danghat just takes me forever.
Edit: Found the board. Thanks.
-
That link got mangled. Just scroll to the bottom of this page and click on the "Hoffman Turret Boards" link.
-
Man I found all kinds of good info housed since I was last on here. Great stuff and organization for this project. Will save me a lot of time now.
It's already been said but kudos to the groundbreakers here. Ed, Steve and Lionel.
-
Steve, I don't know if it is work that blocks this or not but that link is giving me an error.
I shall poke around
Is it too lazy to not drill my own :dontknow: I do like to do things from scratch but I'm also going to build my own speaker and head cab for it and danghat just takes me forever.
Edit: Found the board. Thanks.
Most of the time id doesn't matter if I build the board or not. I am using a lot of terminal strips lately. I don't think you will lose any of your "DIY Status" buying the board made by Doug.
I made the cabinets, chassis and head box. On this one I really enjoyed making the board and along with Sluckey's description of the tremolo/vibrato really helped me understand the workings of the circuit, however there are a lot of holes. Making the buss and ground scheme was fun as well.
Making the chassis was the least fun, but I am glad I did. It was larger than necessary, but has allowed for me the do a few mods and keep the build very clean. I have a LOT of amps and I cannot say enough good stuff about this one. If I were to build another one I would plan for the Jump and Cascade switch as part of the build. This gives you the EF86 and Wiggle together.
-
Steve, I don't know if it is work that blocks this or not but that link is giving me an error.
I shall poke around
Is it too lazy to not drill my own :dontknow: I do like to do things from scratch but I'm also going to build my own speaker and head cab for it and danghat just takes me forever.
Edit: Found the board. Thanks.
Most of the time id doesn't matter if I build the board or not. I am using a lot of terminal strips lately. I don't think you will lose any of your "DIY Status" buying the board made by Doug.
I made the cabinets, chassis and head box. On this one I really enjoyed making the board and along with Sluckey's description of the tremolo/vibrato really helped me understand the workings of the circuit, however there are a lot of holes. Making the buss and ground scheme was fun as well.
Making the chassis was the least fun, but I am glad I did. It was larger than necessary, but has allowed for me the do a few mods and keep the build very clean. I have a LOT of amps and I cannot say enough good stuff about this one. If I were to build another one I would plan for the Jump and Cascade switch as part of the build. This gives you the EF86 and Wiggle together.
Ed, best place/price for Hammond iron? What say you?
I may hit you up one day for a broke in Celestian Blue if you wanted to part with one :icon_biggrin:
-
Steve, I don't know if it is work that blocks this or not but that link is giving me an error.
I shall poke around
Is it too lazy to not drill my own :dontknow: I do like to do things from scratch but I'm also going to build my own speaker and head cab for it and danghat just takes me forever.
Edit: Found the board. Thanks.
Most of the time id doesn't matter if I build the board or not. I am using a lot of terminal strips lately. I don't think you will lose any of your "DIY Status" buying the board made by Doug.
I made the cabinets, chassis and head box. On this one I really enjoyed making the board and along with Sluckey's description of the tremolo/vibrato really helped me understand the workings of the circuit, however there are a lot of holes. Making the buss and ground scheme was fun as well.
Making the chassis was the least fun, but I am glad I did. It was larger than necessary, but has allowed for me the do a few mods and keep the build very clean. I have a LOT of amps and I cannot say enough good stuff about this one. If I were to build another one I would plan for the Jump and Cascade switch as part of the build. This gives you the EF86 and Wiggle together.
Ed, best place/price for Hammond iron? What say you?
I may hit you up one day for a broke in Celestian Blue if you wanted to part with one :icon_biggrin:
I used a Hammond PT I had on-hand and got a Mercury Magnetics dealer near me to order the OT for me. Lego bought his and got a deal is some way.
I don't like to let go of Blues as I watch Craigslist for them all the time. All I have are in-use. :icon_biggrin: I have tried a lot of speakers. Greenbacks are my second preferred in this amp. JBL's and Altec are great. You really want a speaker that holds together since headroom is limited. The Weber cali sounds OK.
As with speakers, different folks like different, but the amp is naturally bright.
-
I figured you'd hold em'. :icon_biggrin:
After reading your review I'm sold on the Blue. I'll just sell a few more pedals to fund one :wink:
-
Thanks for getting me back on this Thread Hawk. I need to read up and see if I missed any tweaking helpers. You mentioned understanding tremolo circuits and I got this video update from Uncle Doug over in YouTube land. For me it's a must watch, I'm no electrical engineer and this fellow really has great tutorials. http://youtu.be/1kV2nz4-fXw (http://youtu.be/1kV2nz4-fXw)
-
Ok, Sluckey, or whoever, I know there has been a ton of discussion on the iron. I've know you guys have sort of had your own iron and or sourced part or all. I really want to get this part right...well I want to get it all right...but you know what I mean.
Sluckey I was trying to copy your iron based off your pics of your build. Does this look right?
PT: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Hammond-Manufacturing/270FX/?qs=dhCoiiGcT1Imxl%2FtudqGgA%3D%3D (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Hammond-Manufacturing/270FX/?qs=dhCoiiGcT1Imxl%2FtudqGgA%3D%3D)
OT: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Hammond-Manufacturing/1650F/?qs=vcFyY%252bOcAyhL%2FRhxzLkwxQ%3D%3D (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Hammond-Manufacturing/1650F/?qs=vcFyY%252bOcAyhL%2FRhxzLkwxQ%3D%3D)
Choke, couldn't find it at Mouser: http://www.digikey.de/product-detail/en/193B/193BHM-ND/459383 (http://www.digikey.de/product-detail/en/193B/193BHM-ND/459383)
-
Sluckey I was trying to copy your iron based off your pics of your build. Does this look right?
Why look at pics? There's a transformer data sheet in the documentation file. AES has all that iron and also has better prices than Mouser.
-
Sluckey I was trying to copy your iron based off your pics of your build. Does this look right?
Why look at pics? There's a transformer data sheet in the documentation file. AES has all that iron and also has better prices than Mouser.
Well to honestly answer your question I forgot I printed that part. I have stuff spread out everywhere and that got buried and I forgot you had that in there. :embarrassed:
-
Hawk, there is a lot of wiring in this build so go slow. If your getting board from here make sure you do the wiring that goes from turret to turret first
-
Ok, getting my ducks in a row. I've got the board at least from Doug. I didn't feel like punching out my own for whatever reason...probably because I'll build my own head and cab and that is enough DIY for me on an amp build. I'll start a new thread soon on my build but I thought it more appropriate for one more question in this thread.
The only thing I'm stuck on really as to what I want to do mod wise is this jumping vs cascading the channels. I'm trying to get my head around the difference sound wise and the pro's and con's.
What are the positives and negatives of jumping, cascading or jumping AND cascading via DPDT sound wise? I know different strokes for different folks so I'm not looking for what sounds 'better' but what the difference in sound really is if that makes sense.
My mind is telling me that jumping in paralell where both are being played at the same time comes out in the wash and is the same as being cascaded or in series where both are being played at the same time? Different sound?
Thanks a bunch for any thoughts on this as I just can't decide and I guess I'm looking to be swayed.
-
I just finished my build of this amp, and I'm really pleased with it. However, the normal channel is MUCH louder than the vibrato. I expected a pretty big difference, but nothing near what I'm getting. The vibrato channel cranked all the way could never be heard with a drummer in the room, but I can't even get the normal channel anywhere near full volume without feedback (and pain). When I run the 2 channels in parallel (jumpered) it sounds great- full volume and nice, rich tremolo. In series (cascade) the sound is really distorted and thin. One change I made to the circuit was to use a single input with a rotary switch to select between the channels and series/parallel. I've been over the switch many times, and I think it's good, but it would be my primary suspect if y'all say there shouldn't be such a big difference between channels. As it is, I'm really happy with either just normal, or the two in parallel, but would like the vibe channel to be able to stand on its own.
The switch positions are
1 normal
2 series
3 parallel
4 vibrato
In troubleshooting, I took the grounds of the two shielded wires straight to ground, bypassing the A pole of the switch entirely. Didn't help.
Thanks,
Michael
-
I'm glad you dig this amp, Im just about ready to stuff it in the head SilverGun made for me. As for the volume issue, I have the same. It's just the way this amp is, run it In parallel(jumpered) for that boost, that's how everyone is doing it I believe. If you were playing in a place that has a PA system, that's were you'd get your more volume or in a studio you'd be miked. I like that switch setup you came up with. I have mine in cascade mode and I added the Swamp Switch. It's great for some real slow deep muddy Delta Shit.
-
Thanks for the response, lego. I'll stop beating my head against the wall trying to figure out what's wrong with the Vib channel. Except that mine sounds awful in cascade, but great when jumpered.
This is just my 3rd amp build (plus a reverb unit), so I wasn't surprised when it didn't work on first start-up. I checked and re-checked everything, and it all seemed that everything was put together right. I was really getting discouraged- if everything's put together like I think it ought to be, and it still doesn't work, then I must not know what I'm doing. Then I happened to bump the speaker cable, and it made noise. I'd spent several days trouble-shooting the amp when a faulty speaker cable was the problem. Doh!
A good friend has been building the cabinet, and now we're down to quibbling over handle hardware and such. Once it's finished, I'll post some pics. I'm really pleased with the amp, and very much appreciate all the information I got off this thread. I've learned a lot about arranging a layout from the schematic, and am very impressed with the work done by lego4040 and sluckey on this particular amp. Much thanks to you both, and to the forum in general, for all the help. And also Uncle Doug, whose videos inspired me to pick this stuff in the first place. I was having trouble justifying another guitar purchase, but now that I have an amp addiction, too, the sky's the limit!
Sincerely,
Michael
-
I love Uncle Dougs Videos, he Nails his videos. I want to copy all his videos to a disk so I'll always have them.
-
Thanks for the info Michael.
Interesing on the cascading. I wonder if others have experienced this as well.
-
I didn't leave the cascade mod in my amp. I felt I could get a better sounding distortion using a pedal.
-
Thanks Steve. Maybe I'll just do the jumped mod then unless Ed tells me in hindsight he would not or has pulled his.
-
I did not pull the mod, but I agree as is it does not sound very good. I have my EF86 with it's own gain pot and I have lifted the bypass on the normal channel. There is just too much crossover distortion. Decisions, decisions, decisions, what to do.
Keep in mind I am using a 2 amp rig and using the Vox for my clean and overdriven amp. I am using a 2, 10 Princeton for my wet amp. Since I have it jumped all the time I can still use the Wiggle in the Vox, but for what I am doing (who I am playing with) the Princeton Bias Vary Tremolo works best.
I will say if I were going to use the amp by itself, I would only have the channels jumped since I really like the sound of the EF86 and the Vibrato in addition being able to control everything together is nice.
Sluckey is correct IMO about using a pedal for distortion as it helps the amp to have a big amp feel and I really like the way pentodes respond to boosting the signal.
-
Many thanks Ed. I've got what I need then on what to do. Jumped it is. I do plan to use on its own.
Sold my Fender HRD last night so today it's time to buy some parts :icon_biggrin:
-
I know its been a while for this thread but I figured I would ask here to keep thing in one place.
1. Any recordings of this amp anywhere? I have seen links to other manufacturers, etc but I haven't found a clip to one of these.
2. What are the dimensions of the amp once its in a head cabinet? I have a Marshall 4x10 and a 2x12 that are roughly 24" wide. Will this board fit into a 24" wide head? I know it might seem silly but I don't like the mushroom look (big head on small speaker).
3. Any final thoughts on output transformers? Does the Hammond have the magic or do I need to invest in a Mercury?
-
1. Any recordings of this amp anywhere? I have seen links to other manufacturers, etc but I haven't found a clip to one of these.
I haven't heard any recordings. Maybe Ed Chambley has?
2. What are the dimensions of the amp once its in a head cabinet? I have a Marshall 4x10 and a 2x12 that are roughly 24" wide. Will this board fit into a 24" wide head? I know it might seem silly but I don't like the mushroom look (big head on small speaker).
I used a 20x6.5x2.5 chassis with inward lips. Easy fit inside a 24" cab.
3. Any final thoughts on output transformers? Does the Hammond have the magic or do I need to invest in a Mercury?
I'm pleased with all Hammond iron in my AC15. I've only used Mercury on one build. I didn't notice any magic other than the disappearing money act. :icon_biggrin:
If you decide to build this please share your project with us.
-
Here is the deal with the recordings. I found a couple on youtube which show the type of Vox we built. It is the EF86 channel that makes this amp and if the amp did not have Tremolo you would not notice the Vibrato is not as strong. Listen to the video and you will notice. The benefits to the build over the stock amp is the ability to modify things. Jumping the channels simply allows the use Vibrato/Tremolo with the EF86 which makes it unique since the stock amp did not come this way.
To cascade the tubes you cannot just switch them in series as the distortion resulting is not way too much coming from a single stage. If you intend to cascade switch the amp you will want to switch the EF86 to triode or reduce the screen resistor considerably. Best to simply switch to triode mode.
Also, the problem with the original getting hot is resolved. I can tell you I made many recordings of the amp along with other amps I have and computer uploads do not sound anything like the amp. I do not put much stock in them. The amp also has a feel you cannot record and the feel of an amp is where inspiration comes IMO. Lots have asked for a recording and the one here is as good as any, but please understand even this video does not sound very much like playing the amp.
Speaker selection is very important with this amp since it is so harmonically rich even when playing clean. You really don't want a speaker the breaks up easily. I have and use a Celestion Blue, but it sounds great with a Altec 417 and a JBL 120, but like the Weber 12A150 breaks up and muddies the amps true distortion.
So far as the Iron you intend to use, I selected what worked best for me since I was building a head I wanted 4-8-16 ohm. The guy that owns http://livinginthepast-audioweb.co.uk/index.php?p=xfrmrpp (http://livinginthepast-audioweb.co.uk/index.php?p=xfrmrpp) has a lot of information and knows a lot about Vox and even has the original iron. I used a Mercury OT and a Hammond PT and the output tube plates with modern wall current stays at 300Vdc or very close. To my ear dropping some of the voltage reduces the headroom and makes the transition from clean to distortion much more smooth.
Another thing you cannot record, which this amp is the best of any I have played, is the touch and the feeling of playing in compression and looseness. The amp is very forgiving. I wish I could get a recording to post that would do it justice, but you really just have to play one.
I used a 17 x 8 x 2 chassis and build a head box 20" x 9"deep and 8" high. I always check a layout to see the chassis size I need then make it larger.
! No longer available (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=igZFOcbNtmU#)
-
Thanks for the response, lego. I'll stop beating my head against the wall trying to figure out what's wrong with the Vib channel. Except that mine sounds awful in cascade, but great when jumpered.
This is just my 3rd amp build (plus a reverb unit), so I wasn't surprised when it didn't work on first start-up. I checked and re-checked everything, and it all seemed that everything was put together right. I was really getting discouraged- if everything's put together like I think it ought to be, and it still doesn't work, then I must not know what I'm doing. Then I happened to bump the speaker cable, and it made noise. I'd spent several days trouble-shooting the amp when a faulty speaker cable was the problem. Doh!
A good friend has been building the cabinet, and now we're down to quibbling over handle hardware and such. Once it's finished, I'll post some pics. I'm really pleased with the amp, and very much appreciate all the information I got off this thread. I've learned a lot about arranging a layout from the schematic, and am very impressed with the work done by lego4040 and sluckey on this particular amp. Much thanks to you both, and to the forum in general, for all the help. And also Uncle Doug, whose videos inspired me to pick this stuff in the first place. I was having trouble justifying another guitar purchase, but now that I have an amp addiction, too, the sky's the limit!
Sincerely,
Michael
If you drop the voltage on the entire B+ where your power tubes are ~300Vdc as the original schematic, the 2 channels get a lot closer in volume or you can drop the voltage on the EF86 and the channels will get closer as well. The EF86 increases headroom easier.
I have not noticed much difference in volume from channel to channel, but the vibrato is weak in comparison to tremolo. I increased the gain on the Vibrato and no know why it is the way it is. The vibrato begins to pump like an organ does and just doesn't sound very good. Made me appreciate the Vibrato. It does not sound anything like a Maggie.
-
I'm working on putting my BOM together... I know there is already one, but I don't think it includes parts for the mods so I'm hoping you can help out:
1. Brilliance Switch. Do I need a shorting switch or a non-shorting switch?
2. Delta Tremolo/Vibrato. I cannot see a difference between the picture in the AC15 document and the MODS document. Are they the same or am I missing something?
3. Standby Plus! I see this is a 250R resistor... what is the wattage rating? Which switch would I need for this?
4. Where did you get those nifty solder lugs? (I think I asked this once before but cannot find the answer)
5. What are you using for ground bus wire? Looks heavier than standard 22ga.
One more thing... I have a set of Magnequest MQ565 output transformers that I bought for another project (Dynaco ST35) that I never built. They are 8K CT primary with 8 & 16 Ohm secondaries. Would it be stupid to use one of them for this project?
Thanks!
-
Wow... I'm getting old. I started re-reading this thread and realized I already asked most of these questions 2 years ago. Where does the time go?
-
1. Brilliance Switch. Do I need a shorting switch or a non-shorting switch?
I used a shorting switch, AKA make before break. If you use a non-shorting switch you will need a bunch of 5.1M resistors between poles to avoid popping.
2. Delta Tremolo/Vibrato. I cannot see a difference between the picture in the AC15 document and the MODS document. Are they the same or am I missing something?
Same. This mod was incorporated into my project from day one, although I initially used a toggle switch near the footswitch jack on the rear of the chassis. You can see that in this pic...
http://sluckeyamps.com/VAC15/big_guts.jpg (http://sluckeyamps.com/VAC15/big_guts.jpg)
3. Standby Plus! I see this is a 250R resistor... what is the wattage rating? Which switch would I need for this?
I have removed this mod because I needed that special switch in another amp. The resistor is 10W. Doug sells the switch. He calls it a Double Pole Single Throw but it's really a Triple Throw, AKA OFF-ON-ON.
http://el34world.com/charts/SwitchDPST.htm (http://el34world.com/charts/SwitchDPST.htm)
4. Where did you get those nifty solder lugs? (I think I asked this once before but cannot find the answer)/quote]Are you talking about those standoff turrets that have the grid stopper resistors and shielded cable attached? If so, those are military surplus. You can find them on eBay or buy them new at Mouser or other big retail distributors.
5. What are you using for ground bus wire? Looks heavier than standard 22ga.
That is 17 gauge steel electric fence wire from Tractor Supply Co. It's galvanized plated so you have to use flux for a proper solder connection.
Would it be stupid to use one of them for this project?
I'd probably use it, but then I have no plans of building a stereo amp. BTW, I chose to use all Hammond iron mainly because I scrapped my Lightning amp to build the AC15.
I did not like the cascade mod. Sounded too raspy to me.
-
I ordered parts and am planning out my build!
I have some questions about the ground scheme:
- Does the ground buss for the control panel connect to a lug on the right side of the chassis, or an insulated standoff?
- Why is there a NOR Gnd wire and a VIB Gnd wire? They appear to be connected to same ground buss. I assume there is an advantage to connecting both ends but I don't understand why.
Separate question about filament wiring (not specific to this amp):
- In the past when I have built audio pre-amplfiers, I have had to elevate the potential to reduce hum. I don't think I have seen this on guitar amps, is there a reason?
-
I've elevated the heaters on some of my builds to ~70dcv.
It takes 3 parts, 2 resistors, set up as a voltage divider off the main B+ and a small cap ~20uF @ 100vdc.
Look in here for good info;
http://www.valvewizard.co.uk/heater.html (http://www.valvewizard.co.uk/heater.html)
-
- Does the ground buss for the control panel connect to a lug on the right side of the chassis, or an insulated standoff?
There is an insulated standoff turret on the right side of my chassis. It is used only to support the end of the buss and does not actually connect to chassis.
- Why is there a NOR Gnd wire and a VIB Gnd wire? They appear to be connected to same ground buss. I assume there is an advantage to connecting both ends but I don't understand why.
Because the onboard NOR preamp ground buss does not connect to the onboard VIB preamp ground buss. So each separate preamp ground buss needs a separate wire to chassis ground.
Would you like to have your project in a separate thread or do you want to continue in this long thread? If so, let me know and also tell me what subject you would want to use. I can split off your posts and all replies to a separate thread if you like.
-
Because the onboard NOR preamp ground buss does not connect to the onboard VIB preamp ground buss. So each separate preamp ground buss needs a separate wire to chassis ground.
I swear I looked at the pictures and the diagrams at least 10 times and did not see the gap... suddenly its there. :BangHead:
-
That's an easy one to miss. I think that has been mentioned before?
-
If you drop the voltage on the entire B+ where your power tubes are ~300Vdc as the original schematic, the 2 channels get a lot closer in volume or you can drop the voltage on the EF86 and the channels will get closer as well.
I'm assuming you'd drop the entire B+ right after the rectifier, as with the off/on/on standby switch. If you just wanted to drop the voltage to the EF86, would you do that in the power train (R14, 22K 3W), or with the plate resistor (R15, 220K)? The schematic says the EF86 is getting 98V to its plate. About how much would you want to reduce that?
-
Your going to love this amp, build was tedious for me being it was my third build. These guys here have been a blessing to me. I hope everyone here had a great holiday, I haven't been around lately, last six months have been interesting. I left my job and went back to work with old friends in another plant, had surgery to remove a tumor in my throat(benign)etc.....but got the itch again thanks to my sons desire to play guitar. I'll give him my 80's 59-U Dan electro and as a surprise I'm going to surprise him with the Hoffman Stout I built once I put a speaker in the cab.
-
I would like to build a variation of what Bonzerinc did, without the cascade. I'm thinking I would rather have a single input and a switch to toggle (as opposed to rotary) between Normal, Tremolo & Parallel. I'm really bad with coming up with things on my own, but I am good at following diagrams. Could someone suggest parts needed and how to wire things together?
-
I'm thinking I would rather have a single input and a switch to toggle (as opposed to rotary) between Normal, Tremolo & Parallel.
That's exactly what I did a couple months back. C&K make a good quality mini toggle that's perfect for this. Part # is C&K 7211. It's an ON-ON-ON switch. It's not a common switch in guitar amp circles but you can find it at big suppliers like Mouser.
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/CK-Components/7211SYZQE/?qs=V0X8KZBlWwIZ97kF7byDEw%3D%3D (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/CK-Components/7211SYZQE/?qs=V0X8KZBlWwIZ97kF7byDEw%3D%3D)
-
If you drop the voltage on the entire B+ where your power tubes are ~300Vdc as the original schematic, the 2 channels get a lot closer in volume or you can drop the voltage on the EF86 and the channels will get closer as well.
I'm assuming you'd drop the entire B+ right after the rectifier, as with the off/on/on standby switch. If you just wanted to drop the voltage to the EF86, would you do that in the power train (R14, 22K 3W), or with the plate resistor (R15, 220K)? The schematic says the EF86 is getting 98V to its plate. About how much would you want to reduce that?
I would create a new node because changing the plate resistor will change the headroom of the tube. In a practical application you may not even notice. I just owned an original 63 model one time years ago back in the BM days. BM= Before money and I had to sell it because it got too hot to be reliable. Every time I used it, it seemed something got toasted.
I simply used a dropping resistor prior and my amp runs almost exactly like the original schematic which is what I wanted. There is a noticeable loss of headroom, but I don't mind since I wanted a small amp. I have other amps running 400vdc on EL84's. I like those too, but IMO (and that is not worth much) I like the lower voltage. There are benefits as tubes last longer, but from what I hear the JJ tube has no problems with 350, 360 Vdc.
-
I'm thinking I would rather have a single input and a switch to toggle (as opposed to rotary) between Normal, Tremolo & Parallel.
That's exactly what I did a couple months back. C&K make a good quality mini toggle that's perfect for this. Part # is C&K 7211. It's an ON-ON-ON switch. It's not a common switch in guitar amp circles but you can find it at big suppliers like Mouser.
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/CK-Components/7211SYZQE/?qs=V0X8KZBlWwIZ97kF7byDEw%3D%3D (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/CK-Components/7211SYZQE/?qs=V0X8KZBlWwIZ97kF7byDEw%3D%3D)
I used a switch, but I use it in parallel all the time with all controls working. If I want to hear the 12Ax7 I turn up that and it I want the Ef86 I turn up that. I can mix them and I have that tremolo and Vibrato accessible all them time. I found I never really turn the jump switch off and never switch out the slower tremolo. If I built another one I would not even use a switch, I would parallel with one input jack add the swampy tremolo as stock, but the brilliance having multiple caps to me is a must have.
I actually do not have any on the board. They are all on the switch and I can go lower than stock, much lower. I did get carried away with 12 different caps, but I really like the versatility. I have since incorporated this into a lot of other amps I have as a mod to bypass the tonestack for increased gain, but still have switching tone control.
I cannot find the Reply where Sluckey told me how to do this, but you simply remove the cap that parallels with the brilliance switch and use it on the switch as well. With the rotary switch straight up it is stock. One click right it moves to the largest cap and the amp gets deep and from there it shaves just a little bass each time which results in what seems to be brighter due to loss of lower frequencies.
Playing Humbuckers on the neck with the largest cap makes for a great violin sustain.
-
I cannot find the Reply where Sluckey told me how to do this
That's a curse of long threads! :icon_biggrin:
You know you read (or said) something but it's hiding in all the jibber jabber. I'll usually go back through a thread that's up to three pages long to hunt for details, but not a 15 page thread! If search can't find it then it's just lost to me. That particular detail is available on my website.
The brilliance mod is my favorite too, followed by the trem intensity and speed mod. And now I'm finding that I like the channels jumped. The only mod that I didn't care for was the cascade mod. I think it takes the AC-15 sound into the buzzsaw territory. I may remove all reference to that one on my website. :wink:
-
I used a switch, but I use it in parallel all the time with all controls working. If I want to hear the 12Ax7 I turn up that and it I want the Ef86 I turn up that. I can mix them and I have that tremolo and Vibrato accessible all them time.
So you are saying that I can have one input and connect both wires from the 12AX7 and the EF86 to the tip of the input jack and use the volume knobs to "switch" channels. That might be even better... I'm don't care for a lot of knobs. And doing this will allow me to have tremolo on the EF86 channel? What's the downside?
-
I used a switch, but I use it in parallel all the time with all controls working. If I want to hear the 12Ax7 I turn up that and it I want the Ef86 I turn up that. I can mix them and I have that tremolo and Vibrato accessible all them time.
So you are saying that I can have one input and connect both wires from the 12AX7 and the EF86 to the tip of the input jack and use the volume knobs to "switch" channels. That might be even better... I'm don't care for a lot of knobs. And doing this will allow me to have tremolo on the EF86 channel? What's the downside?
I cannot find a downside.
Wait until Sluckey posts as well. He may know of a downside, but like I said I have it paralleled all the time. Oh yea, change where the tremolo wire is connected shorting jack is as well or you will have a second of no tremolo when you switch it on as it takes a moment to begin to oscillate. Simple mod, but a good one.
Sluckey, please explain this better, I am having trouble wording this correctly.
-
I cannot find the Reply where Sluckey told me how to do this
That's a curse of long threads! :icon_biggrin:
You know you read (or said) something but it's hiding in all the jibber jabber. I'll usually go back through a thread that's up to three pages long to hunt for details, but not a 15 page thread! If search can't find it then it's just lost to me. That particular detail is available on my website.
The brilliance mod is my favorite too, followed by the trem intensity and speed mod. And now I'm finding that I like the channels jumped. The only mod that I didn't care for was the cascade mod. I think it takes the AC-15 sound into the buzzsaw territory. I may remove all reference to that one on my website. :wink:
To cascade and get good tone you have to reduce the plate resistor and remove the bypass cap on the 12Ax7 and change the resistor to at least 5k6 value and increase the bypass cap value on the EF86, but them the clean tone is weak. I will say either tube really responds well to a simple overdrive.
If you cascade like it is it is very brittle sounding harsh distortion. Almost makes a sine wave look like a square wave it chops the top way too much.
I think I may have messed with this circuit to the point of be obsessed. :l2: I absolutely love it tho.
-
Two years this thread is! WOW, as a reply to post 714 I too have the cascade switch and normal channel is incredibly loud and tremolo channel is not. I'm gonna going to have to go back over previous threads and wiring to were I can just parallel it and use jumpers or change switch to the jumper. I use the Jumper on my recent 5E9-A build and the amp is incredible
-
Sluckey, please explain this better, I am having trouble wording this correctly.
Move the FS to the wiper of the Depth control. See pic...
And here's a pic of my NOR-BOTH-VIB channel selector switch that uses a single input jack...