Hoffman Amplifiers Tube Amplifier Forum
Amp Stuff => Tube Amp Building - Tweaks - Repairs => Topic started by: lego4040 on June 09, 2014, 10:23:39 pm
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Since I was floored by Sluckeys AC/15 I decided to build his Revibe :icon_biggrin: I don't need another amp but who couldn't use a tube reverb all by its self. I gave Sluckey a shout out and he asked me to post it cause lots of guys are interested in this stand alone. So here it goes: My first lesson was order as much as possible from as few sources as possible, saves on shipping( I could have gotten a few nos tubes on last build for excess shipping) I ordered all my caps, resistors, trannies and sockets so far. Board and turrets tomorrow, Im wiped out
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Glad to see you going for it. I had more fun with this project than any of my other stuff. After doing the AC15 this will be a breeze. You should see a lot of similarities between the two layouts. If you are going to mount the reverb tank on the chassis as I did be sure to get a 17" x 6.5" x 2.5" chassis. You know where to get it.
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Lego, I've updated the website to show the minor changes due to me rearranging the power supply nodes. Hopefully the pics and my pdf are in agreement with each other now. Be sure to download the this latest version of the pdf. It'll save you 4 turrets.
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I just paired the Revibe with the AC15. You're gonna like it!
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:happy1: EVERYTHING ordered for this project and all parts on the way, Sluckey thanks for the updated PDF but I'll have reprint since I printed this one out on Monday. For tubes I went :12AX7 / 7025 Japanese made.
Nice tube, similar to Mullard in construction. Many different brands, most made at the Matshushita factory, which was set up by Mullard U.K. Some late 1970s types also. All better than the junk being made today, at a lower price!
SPECIAL PRICE! RARE SQ Type Philips label Amperex E180CC (7062 / 12AT7 premium tube), military stock
New Old Stock in original military boxes. MORE STOCK JUST IN! A very nice Amperex made 7062 tube, which is nearly identical with the 12AT7 and 5965 type, which has just a bit lower gain than the 12AT7. These are the low noise audio screened, 10,000hr. rated heater life tubes. Sweet sounding and smooth, add to that the extra quiet and sonic focus of vintage Amperex manufacture, and you may never go back to a 12AT7 once you hear these.
7408 Industrial grade 6V6GT, various brands
New Old Stock whitebox. Nice heavy duty 6V6GT on par with the GTY and VT107A military types.
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Looked at your update, when your adding the led you say to omit the 22uf/4.7k on those lugs. I kinda understand since the led only let's voltage thru one way. You don't loose the operations that those two were doing? You also omited the 22uf next to it that was connected to the 1.5k
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Looked at your update, when your adding the led you say to omit the 22uf/4.7k on those lugs. I kinda understand since the led only let's voltage thru one way. You don't loose the operations that those two were doing?
The LED also provides fixed bias for the oscillator since it has a constant voltage drop across it. The LED completely replaces the resistor and cap and allows for a more constant (within reason) LFO signal amplitude across the entire LFO frequency range.
You also omited the 22uf next to it that was connected to the 1.5k
Remember I rearranged the B+ nodes? When I did that I had to lower the gain of V5A to compensate for the higher B+ that was feeding it. The easiest way was to just remove the cathode bypass cap for V5A. All this was done to balance the amplitudes of the dual phase LFO signals. You no longer need that cap.
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Ah, I left first print out at work and couldn't compare. First bunch of parts came in today when I got my mail, I ordered the 17.5x6.5x2.5 chassis for this and I have beautiful unfinished redish mahagony flooring for sides.
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Sluckey, how much work involved into adding another 6v6 and turning this into Princton Reverbish amp? out of curiosity
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Page 3&4 are two different wiring setups, in your picture I see you are using page 4 but not using the 100ohm resistors to lamps, your using the green/grnyellow tap to ground. I know you use can use either way but not both at same time, you just put them on the board and didnt use them
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Sluckey, how much work involved into adding another 6v6 and turning this into Princton Reverbish amp? out of curiosity
The PR is a total new project. Just build this project as is.
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Page 3&4 are two different wiring setups, in your picture I see you are using page 4 but not using the 100ohm resistors to lamps, your using the green/grnyellow tap to ground. I know you use can use either way but not both at same time, you just put them on the board and didnt use them
Page 4 is not a wiring diagram. It is used to show how to physically place the components on the chassis for drilling purposes.
RE: 100Ω resistors... I had not chosen a PT when I designed the board so I put the resistors on board in case I needed an artificial center tap. If you use the same PT that I used, you can eliminate the resistors and those 4 turrets..
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hence thats where I will save those 4 turrets for next project, Im super physced that the revibe sounds great with the ac15. I was looking at those avatars and trying to figure out a way to stuff both of those inside :l2: Maybe the Revibe inside and the vox on top
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I'm gonna keep my revibe as a separate unit. That way it's easy to use with any amp.
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:happy1: Three Boxes of parts came in today including the tubes. Ive been buying my tubes from audiotubes.com and they are the nicest people I have spoken to:(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/BB8DD736-C084-4516-B634-7804E4F0AE16_zpsvfwynjsf.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/BB8DD736-C084-4516-B634-7804E4F0AE16_zpsvfwynjsf.jpg.html) Thats a El80ccsq version of the 12at7, I was blown away at how much nos 12ax7s cost. Im waiting for one more box from Ken over at Turretboard, its on its way tho. I can start laying out drilling template on the chassis hopefully tomorrow. I still need a head for the Sluckeys vox, but I did swap in some Nos tubes
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I can start laying out drilling template on the chassis hopefully tomorrow
I have updated the pdf again. Last time, I promise! The chassis layout now includes my real dimensions. May be helpful when laying out your chassis.
The very first thing I mounted on the chassis was the reverb unit. Next came the row of tubes, caps, and OT across the back. Then the board. You may have to slightly reposition the board to clear the screws for the reverb unit. Once these are in place you will see how to drop the PT in.
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You are a scholar and a gentleman
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I just paired the Revibe with the AC15. You're gonna like it!
Hi Sluckey!!
Just lurking here :laugh: . What did you mean by this? I plan to build both the AC15 and Revibe so I would be interested. Thanks much for these great projects!!!
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I plugged my guitar into the revibe and plugged the revibe into the ac15
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Busted out the board and got this done
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/9169C1D7-4697-49DD-9A1A-07CC7BBD3B2B_zpse93bogko.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/9169C1D7-4697-49DD-9A1A-07CC7BBD3B2B_zpse93bogko.jpg.html)
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/782DED2D-BE61-486B-A9B6-1E0B0CD92244_zps3sj1ckjr.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/782DED2D-BE61-486B-A9B6-1E0B0CD92244_zps3sj1ckjr.jpg.html)
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/0175AE57-01C6-497B-ACBE-12D53545B12D_zpsa43oejxt.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/0175AE57-01C6-497B-ACBE-12D53545B12D_zpsa43oejxt.jpg.html)
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Weber parts came in and that's the last of waiting for supplies
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I do like black. Is the board 1/8" G10 fiberglass? Hope you have some pretty colors to load on it. Blue is my favorite. :grin:
Take a look at this pic.... http://home.comcast.net/~seluckey/amps/revibe/revibe_03_big.jpg (http://home.comcast.net/~seluckey/amps/revibe/revibe_03_big.jpg)
Notice the screw head about the center of the board directly above that blue e-cap? That's a fifth standoff that was not on the drill guide. I added that after drilling the board for extra support. Probably overkill. Now is a good time to add that standoff hole if you think the board may flex too much.
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Here are some of the parts on board, they are just to show, not actual spot. I don't like the blue cap but I can live with it. I just have a couple more under board wires, go over top side again to check correctness and I'll start populating.
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/58C04A55-F6AD-4E31-9E85-DC19085FD878_zpsfyaekofq.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/58C04A55-F6AD-4E31-9E85-DC19085FD878_zpsfyaekofq.jpg.html)
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(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/3AC4CC51-4DD2-4D78-B22E-1A0CE1A87282_zpsao2xoiix.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/3AC4CC51-4DD2-4D78-B22E-1A0CE1A87282_zpsao2xoiix.jpg.html)
almost finished board, I've been in slow mode lately
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You don't need that cap and resistor. Look at my completed pics and get the updated pdf.
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You were reading my mind Steve, I was gonna write earlier about that when I realized I was still building of of old plans. The under board wiring has changed as well I see
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Made the change, thanks for the heads up
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Started marking out chassis for all the holes
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/EDE98B86-83C4-4225-8BD9-48C0684D2C28_zpsefvlqr5c.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/EDE98B86-83C4-4225-8BD9-48C0684D2C28_zpsefvlqr5c.jpg.html)
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geez, with all those parts, I hope you order something from me?
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I do Doug I do. This project I ordered the all two trannies, resistors, plus others. I will need a Faceplate to be made so before I drill my holes I need to make accurate measurements. Anyone have a good source for faceplates?
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Thanks, I appreciate your business :icon_biggrin:
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I will need a Faceplate to be made so before I drill my holes I need to make accurate measurements. Anyone have a good source for faceplates?
I've got some artwork for my layout. Does this appeal to you?
EDIT... Is this better? This fits my chassis exactly. The background size can easily be changed to fit another size chassis. I'm guessing yours is 17.5 x 6.5 x 2.5?
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:bravo1:That is awesome, are you gonna make that print out available with measurements??????? I would go with another color scheme besides yellow. I would like to see forest green with white lettering maybe. I have a program that I barely know how to use that lots of guys over at BYOC use. I should learn it again and print out and try to make my own
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This plate was made with Visio. I can convert to full scale pdf format just like I did with the AC15 plate. Does the cream on green look better?
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That's what I'm talking about Sluckey, awesome work. I have some wood for sides now, a few different mahagony boards and some other African board I don't remember. PDF would be awesome and I know I've seen a few companies out there that make plates, one was on Mojotone to
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Hey Steve, my chassis face is 17.50" long. I would need .250 green longer on both sides of pdf if you convert that for me. if I use the wood sides like yours. If I put it in a head with a 16 1/2" chASSIS cut out I think it'll fit like that.
:worthy1:
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Got some holes done(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/87CBC8D0-962D-47E2-BBD3-CEFC880A0C69_zpsczfkrgtc.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/87CBC8D0-962D-47E2-BBD3-CEFC880A0C69_zpsczfkrgtc.jpg.html) I did oversize first main cap a hair by accident,
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Ok so I messed up on my arrangement when I was marking holes for tubes I had marked them on wrong side. So in this picture you'll see tubes on the opposite side of board :BangHead:(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/4EAA4FF3-4F57-46E2-BFDB-799D63B84A34_zpsfdg2ie6v.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/4EAA4FF3-4F57-46E2-BFDB-799D63B84A34_zpsfdg2ie6v.jpg.html) so now my choice is flip board 180* or run tube wires under board then pot wires over top. Anyone have a suggestion? Will I have excess noise or will I be alright since it's not a high gain amp
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OUCH!
Don't flip the board upside down. Even if you manage to make all connections correctly, you'll hate yourself when you have to troubleshoot, replace a component, or do some simple mod.
And don't criss cross wires like you are thinking either.
The cheap way (and this ain't my choice)... Strip the chassis and drill it properly. The board and the reverb tank will hide the tube holes. No, forget this idea. The more I think of this idea, the more my head hurts.
I would just get a new chassis (They are on sale). Measure twice, cut once. That's the best I got buddy. Sorry.
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I ment flipping so the rectifier on other side of chassis not so the components are hidden. Man I'd hate to have to redo chassis :BangHead:
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Oh ok, btw who has them on sale?
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Oh ok, btw who has them on sale?
watts
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On his site now, will order. I can't believe I did, will leave it next project. I palm sanded it today and got a really nice brushed aluminum shine. (http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/59E81031-975F-4E80-9B96-D8DDFB1B1D74_zpsxdwlonby.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/59E81031-975F-4E80-9B96-D8DDFB1B1D74_zpsxdwlonby.jpg.html)
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I wish I could come up with some workable idea to salvage that chassis but every idea I have is just butt ugly.
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Yeah, I appreciate the help. I'll just be more careful about it next time
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Steve, What if I ran tube hookup wires under turret board very tight and neatly and pot wires over turret board neatly? I'll still order a new chassis for a back up. There really isnt a lot of wires on this build
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If you don't care how it looks give it a try. You may get lucky and not have any noise issues.
It's not something I'd do. I have a lot more time invested in designing the layout than I did in actually drilling a chassis. So it's a no brainer decision for me, but I do understand your position too.
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I put the leads on the board and stared at the chassis not wanting to have to take apart. I'll order new one tonight and make all corrections when it gets in. Maybe I can salvage that for a future project :wink: I still want my princeton reverb, 5E9A or Gibsons version of the Tremulox and this site has all the info I need
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Steve, do you use bottom plates on your chassis? The chassis from watts sells those but they are seperate
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I don't have one on my revibe but I've just been too lazy to cut one. I highly recommend using one.
If your unit will get mounted in a cab you can skip the bottom plate and just use a foil shield or screen in the cab.
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That was my concern, I'm gonna just by a head for the Vox. Funds were low and needed to wait. Would any metal work in that case? I have acess to thin sheet aluminum and tin. How annoy Heavy duty aluminum foil spray tacked down in cab :l2:
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I just use 3" wide aluminum duct tape as used in the HVAC industry. Just lay it down in the cab where the open side of the chassis will contact it. For a 6.5" wide chassis you would need to lay down 3 overlapping strips. Much tougher than kitchen foil. Get it at Lowes or any other big box hardware store.
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I am a licensed refrigeration operating engineer here in NYC, I have that tape in my shop. Thanks for that tip :thumbsup:
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New chassis & knobs on the way for the Revibe
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Sluckey what size chassis is it your using on your build? I got my new chassis made triple sure I had tubes on the right side. Made my measurements and my worn out holesaw ate my chassis on first drop. No biggy since the big caps are going in there, everything else went smooth. Then when I went to put my tank on it wouldn't fit, I realized that I moved the tubes down a little away from the back edge and that screwed me up. I nailed the AC-15 with no problems and I screwed this chassis up TWICE. I am livid beyond words and glad I have a few days away from this. Have a great holiday weekend
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I stated my chassis size early in this thread and also in the first paragraph on the revive page. It's also clearly stated in big fonts on the chassis page of the pdf.
Take a look at reply #15.
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:icon_biggrin: I know you did Sluckey I wasn't picking on you or trying to be sarcastic. That's the bad part of texting you can't see or hear me laughing at myself, even my boss said you nailed the amp that took forever to build and you messed a simple chassis up twice. Sorry if it sounded like I was angry, I was only frustrated w myself and Your work is awesome and admirable. I hope everyone has a great weekend
I went ahead and ordered, yes, another chassis, this time 8" wide to give myself breathing room.
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You can easily salvage this chassis **IF** you have not drilled holes in the front and back yet. The reverb tank and board will hide most of the ill-drilled holes. Just mount the reverb unit over the tube holes first.
Then layout the drill locations for tubes and caps and OT on the new rear side of chassis Note that the centerline is only 1.125" from rear edge of chassis! This layout is a tight fit in a 6.5" wide chassis.
Finally mount the board.
Some holes will have to be drilled so that screws will be located under the tank. That's OK. The tank will be sitting higher than the top of the chassis because of the rubber grommets. Notice how I mounted my tank? I used long 10-32 screws thru the chassis. Then I secured ONLY the screws with nuts. Now just drop the tank down on the firmly attached screws and use four nylon insert lock nuts to secure the tank, just snug the lock nuts enough to hold the tank. There should be about 1/4" clearance between the tank and the chassis.
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I thought about that and started to mock that up but being a stickler I couldn't live with that. Even being in a head cabinet I would know about it being banged up. I can be the poster boy for not being patient and dumb mistakes. I'll save them as reminders and mock up boxes, I have one more amp I want to build. I'd like to build the Princeton Reverb
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I use the 1st chassis I drilled/cut and messed up for testing new/different types of drill bits/cutters.
Brad :dontknow:
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Hi guys, haven't been able to work on reverb at all lately due to work schedule but I did get the new chassis in. I'll tape it up and measure it out checking it at least a dozen times before I start drilling it. I'll be up in the northwestern boonies of Maine next week for vacation and keeping my eyes out for a project.
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Here's a pic of my layout. It shows top view. The first thing I did was to place the edge of the reverb tank flush with the front edge of the chassis and centered lengthwise. In my case that gave 1/8" clearance on each end. Mark and drill the 4 mounting holes.
The I marked a centerline all the way across the back side of the chassis. This centerline is 1.125" from the back edge of the chassis. All tube sockets and cap cans are centered and properly spaced on this centerline. Drill or punch these holes to size. Then center the OT between tube sockets. Mount the choke as close to the back edge as you can.
Once you have the tank and tube sockets drilled, everything else will just fall into place. Measure twice, cut once!
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:worthy1: that is perfect. Thanks for helping a novice out
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Ok I got it right this time
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/DAAA5B1E-CDD8-4441-ADF5-910BAC576F81_zpsfoelgi7o.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DAAA5B1E-CDD8-4441-ADF5-910BAC576F81_zpsfoelgi7o.jpg.html)(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/4F5B7FEE-FB59-4F9E-9D4B-397FCC191F3C_zpsqcgd27jw.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/4F5B7FEE-FB59-4F9E-9D4B-397FCC191F3C_zpsqcgd27jw.jpg.html)
sanded and clear coated the chassis. I thought about bringing everything with me to the cabin to wire it up but I'd rather be fishing :icon_biggrin: thanks again Sluckey for those measurements. I didn't drill for pots cause I don't have face plate yet.
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That looks good!
I didn't drill for pots cause I don't have face plate yet.
About the plate. I still have the file we talked about earlier. Take a look at this and tell me what I need to change.
1. What is the size of your chassis?
2. Do you want to use standard size cream chicken head knobs? (Need to adjust spacing between knobs if so.)
3. Can I put the input jack 1.5" from the right side of the chassis as shown? If need to move, how much?
4. Are the colors OK? Need to change anything?
5. Should I change any of the wording? (I'm not crazy about "INDICATOR" for the LED. Got something better?)
6. Do you have any questions or suggestions I haven't thought of?
Let me know about these questions and I'll modify the plate drawing accordingly. I'll furnish a 100% scale pdf file that can be used to print a plate. Wonder if Ed needs a revibe? I'll bet if he could hear the revibe thru his AC15 he would be sold. I've had my revibe connected to my AC15 for a couple weeks now and play it every day. I no longer use the Vibrato channel on the AC15. Heck, I could have just stayed with my Hammond conversion AC15 lite. :laugh:
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My chassis is the 17.5 x 6.5 x 2.5, same as the AC 15. Colors are perfect, you can keep spacing as is too. I bought the knobs already and they are the same as the ones I used on the Vox( small Davies) the indicator light is just for show, since on/off bezel is on the back. You could leave it blank with no name. Jack spot is perfect as well. Of coarse tonight I walk in the door and start to get ready for vacation I get a phone call that my father was T boned while making a turn at a light, the other person never even stepped on brakes. She flipped his car and sent him skidding down road. He's home now and walked away with only some bruises. 75 and still going strong, witness said it was a right out of a James Bond movie the way his SUV flipped and went thru the air
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Here's the face plate file. Just take it to Kinkos or a sign printing shop.
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Thank you Steve, enjoy the weekend. I'll checkout my options when I get back from Maine
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Back from vacation and need a vacation from that now. Does anyone have a favorite or faceplate company they like? I just might go the Kinkos way for this plate but I would rather not
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Forgot about Kinkos, seems I can get one done for 41bucks. I can get 4 put onto one sheet of 12x18 then I just got to cut it :icon_biggrin:
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Forgot about Kinkos, seems I can get one done for 41bucks. I can get 4 put onto one sheet of 12x18 then I just got to cut it :icon_biggrin:
Tell me more! Is the plate a thin aluminum sheet, similar to what Ed did for us? Is this a local sign shop? Or an internet service? I'm willing to split the cost with you if that's OK.
Would it be better if you had a pdf drawing with only one face plate? That's very easy to do with Visio.
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Its the fedex/kinkos sign and print shop. Not all of them have this but a couple around me do, I dont know thickness but i will call them and find out. I found on AX84 that they liked the way they came out and the thickness was about 1/16th of an inch.
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That sounds good. Keep me posted. PM me if you rather keep your thread uncluttered.
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Got plates in and here she is(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/6EC6782E-9D2F-4A68-9F06-61721316202B_zps40x6ac2r.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/6EC6782E-9D2F-4A68-9F06-61721316202B_zps40x6ac2r.jpg.html) I did the kinkos way
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update on the face plate :sad2: The material is just a little to thick for standard shaft pots. I have a Idea and can live with it since it is mine and not being sold. I will taper holes so i can get nut to grab enough and hold plate down. Man this sucks, I have three other beautiful plates Id like to share with this group too
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update on the face plate :sad2: The material is just a little to thick for standard shaft pots.
I've had the same problem with face plates I've had made when using alu. chassis. :BangHead: :cussing:
I found out the hard way that the only new pots I could find that would work were the Mojo brand metal shaft (which I think are custom ordered from CTS) the ROC pots (which I think are also custom ordered from CTS) and the PEC pots but the PEC pots unless you get the right knobs you have to cut the shafts shorter. Some brands of chicken head knobs will fit all the way down on the PEC pots shaft others will not. Fender barrel type knobs will not sit all the way down on the PEC pots shaft. :BangHead: :cussing:
PEC if you go to their web site has different length pot shafts and bushings but for some reason the standard shaft and bushing that they sell and that AES sells are longer then standard CTS pots. :dontknow:
And for some reason some/many of the CTS and Alpha pots bushings that I've tried are just a little bit too short if you use an alu. chassis with a 1/16" face plate. :BangHead: :cussing: (Goldie locks and the 3 bears. 'Ooh this 1's just right.' :laugh: )
The alu. chassis are thicker then the steel chassis like the Fender tweed and BF steel chassis and if you use 1/16" face plate material many pots wont fit.
The star washer that comes with the PEC pot is thinner then most standard CTS pot star washers and will sometimes be just enough to sneak in another pot that would otherwise not work but just barely. And I'm not sure I feel comfortable with only a couple of bushing nut threads holding the pot in place, you can't get the whole nut tightened down only ~ 2/3's of it or so.
Brad :w2:
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I have shaved down the back of thick items like that with my CNC
But you could use a spade bit
It has to be very sharp and true, no wobbling
You have to set it up in a drill press and clamp down the object so nothing can possibly move
You take a 1 inch wide spade bit (or whatever width)
Set a depth stop on the press so it can only go so deep
Use a very slow speed for plastics
Mill out a depression so that the pot can sink deeper
Lots of work, but if you already have the pots and don't want to buy new pots
Use a large gauge buss wire soldered down the back of the pots to keep them from twisting and you can get away with not using locking washers which saves a bit more depth
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Spade bits that I've seen most times have spurs on the outsides to cut a clean circle they will go though the material before you can shave it down.
Fostner bits have spurs also.
An end mill bit is great for a job like this, no spurs with a flat bottom but are pretty pricy.
Brad :icon_biggrin:
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I have a bunch with no spurs and a flat profile across the cutting edge
Not sure they still sell that type?
I have sharpened them with a dremel and you can get them really sharp
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I have a bunch with no spurs and a flat profile across the cutting edge
Not sure they still sell that type?
They probably do, my dad had that type when I was young.
But the longer the shank on any drill the more possible the run out. 'Shorty' drill bits and short end mills will have less run out for tighter tolerances.
Brad :icon_biggrin:
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:think1: I quess thats why they call engineers engineers, ya gotta figure it out. The thickness is .040 on this plate(they came out beautiful) of coarse they messed up specs on spacing at the printing shop and I didnt catch until I got it on cutting table. It was supposed to be 17.5x2.5 with 1.250 cross hairs for the pots, it wasnt. they made it 18.5,not a problem since that was all green on background and I easily fixed that. What sucked was the spacing, One plate was going to Slucky and he couldnt use since his pots were in place. Here is the spacing diference between the revibe plate and the one Ed Chambly made for the Vox AC15(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/F260C434-4425-497C-B01E-3AE4FDCBBF42_zpsblpyt4vr.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/F260C434-4425-497C-B01E-3AE4FDCBBF42_zpsblpyt4vr.jpg.html)
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Yeah, it's difficult to get those bits true
I don't use them anymore for things like that since I have a CNC machine
Your plate is too thin anyway
I was thinking it was .125 inch or something really thick
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I don't use them anymore for things like that since I have a CNC machine
Now that's the ticket right there.
Brad :icon_biggrin:
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If I had a band saw I could fix this real easily
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Question, I am out of 5.1m 1/2 watt resistors :cussing: and I need to put one across the 3mra speed pot. Can I get away with a 4.7M 1/4 watt? or should I just order and spend more money on shipping the resistor
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4.7M will work. In fact, you may not even need that resistor across the speed pot. I would start without it and then experiment with different sizes only if you think it needs it.
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:thumbsup: I filleted the thin aluminum of the back of faceplate and then used a table top 3" belt sander to knock it down. I almost got it
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Aside from one more ground hook up I should be able to fire up amp today.Now Ive never used a seperate head like this. Whats the protocal here? Guitar-Vox AC15-Revibe-Speaker? or Guitar-Revibe-amp- speaker?
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Revibe goes in front of the amp like a stomp box
Guitar- revibe - amp
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:thumbsup: A Big Ol Stompbox at that.
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On powering this up, I would do a poor mans variac test first but should I put a speaker load on the output for safe measures
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No, a ReVibe puts out instrument level signal, it's an effect, not a power amp
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:happy1: It's Alive. I used a reg set of RCA till I can make them tomorrow. The Led is way cool and responds well. I didn't have time to plug it into amp and hear it yet, I had to bail and head home. I'm pissed I can't use plates tho. I have to try some of the smalted wood I have and see if it won't crack on me(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/BD5B7CD2-418A-4341-8C35-7055822D3497_zpsmnu1evcr.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/BD5B7CD2-418A-4341-8C35-7055822D3497_zpsmnu1evcr.jpg.html)(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/0D47D53C-146C-4B7D-9B98-AC126EF0EF8B_zpswmygc5ln.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/0D47D53C-146C-4B7D-9B98-AC126EF0EF8B_zpswmygc5ln.jpg.html)(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/CBD5F1F4-8862-4F35-9569-A87E0E51644E_zpsib8s16pk.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/CBD5F1F4-8862-4F35-9569-A87E0E51644E_zpsib8s16pk.jpg.html)
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Hey, that looks familiar. :wink:
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The polished aluminum w clear coat looks nice but not as nice as the plate. I two more ideas that might work, one definitely. I will get it on there.
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Do you have the correct computer file to print the faceplate? If so, that .04 polystyrene is too thick, as you know. I don't know what you paid, but most Kinkos outsource this type of job. If print on plastic is fine with you, call a local sign ship and ask if you can get the faceplate printed on vinyl sticker material. Pressure sensitive roll vinyl is what it is called.
To get the sticker exactly where you want it, peel the backer off and wet the sticker with water and it will float around on the chassis. Of course all your knobs and switches need to be out. When you get it aligned, leave it overnight and it will be stuck permanent the next day.
Then just cut out the holes. It will be just as durable since you are printing on plastic. This is providing you have the correct file to give the sign shop.
Basically what I am saying is if plastic is acceptable, anytime you want to make something print it in pressure sensitive vinyl. Wet, apply and align, wait and done. Very easy and very thin. I have covered this with plexiglass to add durability.
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That looks good!
I didn't drill for pots cause I don't have face plate yet.
About the plate. I still have the file we talked about earlier. Take a look at this and tell me what I need to change.
1. What is the size of your chassis?
2. Do you want to use standard size cream chicken head knobs? (Need to adjust spacing between knobs if so.)
3. Can I put the input jack 1.5" from the right side of the chassis as shown? If need to move, how much?
4. Are the colors OK? Need to change anything?
5. Should I change any of the wording? (I'm not crazy about "INDICATOR" for the LED. Got something better?)
6. Do you have any questions or suggestions I haven't thought of?
Let me know about these questions and I'll modify the plate drawing accordingly. I'll furnish a 100% scale pdf file that can be used to print a plate. Wonder if Ed needs a revibe? I'll bet if he could hear the revibe thru his AC15 he would be sold. I've had my revibe connected to my AC15 for a couple weeks now and play it every day. I no longer use the Vibrato channel on the AC15. Heck, I could have just stayed with my Hammond conversion AC15 lite. :laugh:
To answer, I do not need a Rebive, but what does that have to do with anything. I have a Leslie and an outboard Fender reverb hooked up to my rig which sounds cool. I am sure the Revibe sounds great and I do want to build one. My mind is killing me. It is wanting me to do more than my body will let me.
I have so much gear and still no Strat.
I guess you are really liking the normal channel on the AC15. I do a lot, but I also have it jumped all the time so I can have the Vibrato (which the revibe cannot do). Like I have mentioned, I have added reverb to the AC15 and it really doesn't need it. I still use at least 2 amps when I play. Even at home. One wet and one dry. Can't beat it. The AC15 with the Celestion Blue is perfect as it is not very loud, but still breaks up very nicely and has a nice large feel.
You still have the Hammond conversion amp don't you? Wanna sell your AC15? :icon_biggrin:
I have someone wanting one, but he doesn't understand how much work is was to build the thing. Since you really don't need yours. :l2:
Maybe you want to sell it for say $350.
I priced the build like mine with the head cab and 1, 12. When I figured it up I was really surprised to see the cost. The amp just like mine would be about $4000 if you were going to make a profit. I completely understand why the new Handwired Vox amps are built in China.
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(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/1D4DC742-8FC2-46F0-BA63-54969B7807FF_zpsrhesukie.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/1D4DC742-8FC2-46F0-BA63-54969B7807FF_zpsrhesukie.jpg.html)(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/1CD18A5E-2933-4555-9ED6-068A57BC5C78_zpsse9fzmwd.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/1CD18A5E-2933-4555-9ED6-068A57BC5C78_zpsse9fzmwd.jpg.html) problem solved :icon_biggrin:
I made the holes large enough to go over nuts, led sits in hole. Still not perfect but it works for me. The plate green scratches easily tho. I'm gonna do another one carefully and I'm gonna clear coat it first
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So the reverb and tremolo is incredible and this beats and electronic pedal anyday. I do have some hum that has a pulse that follows tremolo pattern and when I throw the range switch off it's louder. My first suspect is the RCA cable I used temporarily, you'll see it comes out to far and actually touches the tube protective cover
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/BD5B7CD2-418A-4341-8C35-7055822D3497_zpsmnu1evcr.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/BD5B7CD2-418A-4341-8C35-7055822D3497_zpsmnu1evcr.jpg.html)
not the red jack that's parallel with silver cover but the red one that comes out back, it's a little hard to see. My other suspect is a cheated on the heater wiring, instead of twisting both together I ran one string to each tube pin then wrapped other wire around to other pin on each tube
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/05608961-61B2-43DD-90E0-D13CBB4FAC02_zpsqz047vhu.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/05608961-61B2-43DD-90E0-D13CBB4FAC02_zpsqz047vhu.jpg.html)
the purple wire is ran straight from tube to tube, the blue goes around it. Here you see C main going along back with Vibrato wiring
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/A5BDF416-43C1-4BBE-AC5B-B9F1DA440951_zps5u5onlgs.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/A5BDF416-43C1-4BBE-AC5B-B9F1DA440951_zps5u5onlgs.jpg.html)
the other mains here go under board to there places and I tied it up as neat as possible
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/B54F6323-9DC5-4259-98F0-92ACAB834F4E_zpsy4blfiuo.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/B54F6323-9DC5-4259-98F0-92ACAB834F4E_zpsy4blfiuo.jpg.html)
here I put the ground to stand off and I wasn't happy with way it sat but I was in rush to see it work
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/9FE25332-8C81-4952-8825-29B58AC9C85D_zpsanb06p9d.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/9FE25332-8C81-4952-8825-29B58AC9C85D_zpsanb06p9d.jpg.html).
Any suggestions
I redid heater wires this afternoon with new wire, it's special fire rated wire from the elevator conversion going on at work, it's perfect
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/B171CEC9-E101-49BF-9F24-4147FC1602D7_zpshnomvj3w.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/B171CEC9-E101-49BF-9F24-4147FC1602D7_zpshnomvj3w.jpg.html)
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lego
Your pictures and text are all messed up and on the same lines
I have fixed your post before an now I will show you how to do it
Modify your post
After a line of text, hit return to start a new line
I show you how to fix this problem in the next post after this one
see how the text in your post are displaying next to the pictures?
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/9FE25332-8C81-4952-8825-29B58AC9C85D_zpsanb06p9d.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/9FE25332-8C81-4952-8825-29B58AC9C85D_zpsanb06p9d.jpg.html). This line of text on the same line as your image?
see how this is right?
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/9FE25332-8C81-4952-8825-29B58AC9C85D_zpsanb06p9d.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/9FE25332-8C81-4952-8825-29B58AC9C85D_zpsanb06p9d.jpg.html).
This line of text is not on the same line as your image?
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Modify your post
Use the Toggle View button to see the code
Find the text and hit enter to make it go onto it's own line
Now the text is not on the same line as your images
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:m1 is that better?
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looks much better
You can separate the two pictures that are side by side also and they will be on their own line
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Will seperate that, thanks Doug. Any ideas on my hum noise?
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How would you insert a video or link to a yout tube video on this forum? I took a short clip of revibe and vox head, I have a loud hum and its there weather I have vibrato on or off(louder with it on) I took voltage readings and here is my readings from the schematic
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/EBBEDA94-70C4-4612-966C-5F4BCC8CD218_zpsflnaagvf.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/EBBEDA94-70C4-4612-966C-5F4BCC8CD218_zpsflnaagvf.jpg.html)
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Will seperate that, thanks Doug. Any ideas on my hum noise?
No ideas on the hum, I am knee deep in my build and other stuff at work
The guys here are your best bet
Just paste a youtube url in your post and the forum will take care of the rest
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Got it, thanks Doug. I'm stoked about your Princeton Reverb. Im uploading to youtube now but wifi is at snail speed
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Did some trouble shooting, I put smaller standoffs for board too. The other ones had jacks way to close. The resistors all checked out good but I don't know why I had some minute DC volts on the pins that should read 0 per schematic. I left shop so I won't get back to it till Monday but will think and chew on anyone's thoughts and inputs. Have a good weekend folks.
Oh Steve, aside from the hum that combo Revibe/vox is wicked
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Oh Steve, aside from the hum that combo Revibe/vox is wicked
The Revibe should be wicked in front of any amp.
As for hum....
Connect the revibe to another amp. Got hum?
Disconnect the power cord green wire from chassis ground. (A ground buster adapter works well, or just unbolt the wire.) Got hum?
Turn the MIX control to zero. Got hum?
Pull V4. Got hum?
I'm trying to narrow down where the hum is coming from so please answer all four of the above questions.
As for voltages... I don't see any. Did you write them on that schematic? If so, we can't see them on that tiny pic! We need a big hi rez pic to read them. You could always just type a list or chart. We need voltages for all B+ nodes and all tube pins, even if zero.
Wiring errors are a common problem with new builds. Are you sure it's wired correctly?
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As Steve said, Lift the ground on the revibe plug, you don't need it.
The two chassis are connected together via the guitar cord shield
You have a ground loop if you are using the 3rd prong on both power cords
That's two paths to ground
power cords connecting both chassis and guitar cable connecting both chassis
Also, plug both units into the same wall receptacle or power strip
When I plug an amp into one wall socket and the revibe into a power strip on my work bench, I get a hum
when they are both plugged into the same power strip, all is dead quiet
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I put the Revibe into normal channel and got hum, I put it into virbrato channel and got much less hum. I lowered the board from 5/8" standoffs to 1/4". The jacks were way to close to board. I thought about pulling the center tap ground but ran out of time and didn't feel like hanging around shop anymore. Yeah I wrote them down on schematic next to the voltages that are there already from print out. I shrunk pictur down to not take up space. If you look at the schem volts in red mine are next to it in pencil.
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I just did a 8 hr shift for core drilling holes from one floor to another and dealt with a leaking expansion tank which flooded out a corner off a floor. Now I'm home and I'm getting the things to do list thrown at me. I will do all those things Monday
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I don't see any red flags with your voltage readings.
I thought about pulling the center tap ground but ran out of time and didn't feel like hanging around shop anymore.
Just to be clear, we ain't talking about pulling any "center tap" grounds. We're talking specifically about disconnecting the green wire in your power cord. If you used an IEC connector, then disconnect the wire from the ground lug of the IEC to chassis.
FWIW, I have the green wire of my power cord connected to chassis. So far I've had no ground loop hum issues. I've had my revibe connected to six different amps without any hum issues. But I'm prepared to use a ground buster adapter if need to. Fingers crossed.
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In Merlin's excellent grounding chapter ( http://www.valvewizard.co.uk/Grounding.html (http://www.valvewizard.co.uk/Grounding.html) ), see 15.11 "Ground Lift". I built many tube preamps and struggled with hum issues and ground loops via instrument cables and the safety grounds on the mains. until I started using this style of ground lift. It might be easy to adapt to your circuit if you used hoffman's board (i.e. easy to insert this between your chassis and circuit ground). this ground lift scheme is also used on lots of modern tube amps (Vox, Marshall, etc) as well as studio pre-amps and th the like.
you can also play with the chassis location of your filament supply's center tap with a jumper wire and alligator clip.
You'll need to use isolated input jacks, so the "sleeve" of the inst. cable is circuit ground. With these, you can put a .01uf cap from the sleeve lug on the jack to an immediately close-by chassis ground. This shunts any RFI that might be on the outside of the instrument (although you are searching for the source of hum.,, RFI is usually more buzz than hum).
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This is what we are talking about as far as lifting the power cord ground wire
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Steve, on the schematic it shows what the voltage reading around the amp should be for checking purposes. They are shown in red, I wrote my readings in pencil next it
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See reply #112.
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You can just use one of those 3 prong to prong adapters to do a quick check on the power cord thing
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Here is my quick and crappy video of Revibe. I do not get a hum when I plug guitar straight into amp but I noticed a high pitch squeal for a couple of seconds and if you listen when I throw switches on Vox clone I get a clink on glass sound :sad2:
http://youtu.be/uHNQL6nwKTw (http://youtu.be/uHNQL6nwKTw)
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Update, I removed the ground on the plug and it got ALOT quieter, but not silent. I put mix on Zero and that did not of anything. I put sensitivity to 10 and it got even quieter. I pulled V4 and I it was dead silent, I had no guitar coming thru amp but it was as quiet as if it'd been off. I took a vid of it and will post as well. Should I lift ground on amp?
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Leave the amp grounded for safety
You can lift the ground on the revibe and it will not do any harm
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I thought that would be an issue if I did that with the amp ground. I'll go thru amp again, check things. I'm not a tech with this stuff but can follow instructions. Trouble shooting pedals drive me nuts cause of size of parts but I usually got it solved
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Here it is today after ground lift. I also changed the little blinking led to a glass jewel. (http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/CB1CE0A0-8743-44D6-B243-56E7344DED64_zpsmx28jrwg.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/CB1CE0A0-8743-44D6-B243-56E7344DED64_zpsmx28jrwg.jpg.html)
(http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j72/legomaniac4040/Mobile%20Uploads/53DC1342-F2EC-4D45-89F6-85A60ED1EDF7_zpsexa7xg8s.jpg) (http://s77.photobucket.com/user/legomaniac4040/media/Mobile%20Uploads/53DC1342-F2EC-4D45-89F6-85A60ED1EDF7_zpsexa7xg8s.jpg.html)
I used a compression fitting to lock jewel, it fit threads perfectly. I used a small grommet in back then bulb
http://youtu.be/2YSSq8gw4Y0 (http://youtu.be/2YSSq8gw4Y0)
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The hum level changes with the intensity pot? It almost sounds like a bad Intensity pot or the pot has a bad ground connection. Something interfering with V4 grid path to ground. Measure resistance from V4-7 to chassis. Should be about 320K with intensity pot set to minimum. And should be about 1.7M with intensity at maximum. And resistance should vary smoothly as you SLOWLY rotate the pot.
Do you have hum if you pull V5?
Have you tried another tube for V4?
I'll do some checks on mine tomorrow and I'll have some more questions for you then.
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I've put different 12ax7 in v4 and had same hum. The hum doesn't ramp up or down when I turn intensity, when I move off of Zero it's more pronounced and when I put to 10 it almost goes away. I will pull v5 steve
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when I move off of Zero it's more pronounced and when I put to 10 it almost goes away.
I was able to repeatedly duplicate that behavior on mine. I discovered it while removing the shield from V5. All of a sudden I had your hum! Touching the tube or wiggling the tube would make the hum go away but I could make it return by just wiggling again. Reseating V5 was the cure. So I rolled several tubes into V5 socket, even tried a couple 5751s. I had a couple tubes that had that hum and I could not make it go away by wiggling the tube. Some of the other tubes were always quiet no matter how much I wiggled them or thumped on them.
So, grab a few 12AX7s and try different tubes in the V5 socket. Cross your fingers.
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Ok Steve, I took reading from V4-7 to chassis and I got 384K with sensitivity on 0. With it on 10 I got 1.7m ohms. I poked around checking for anything out of the ordinary. I swapped V4&V5 with a matched pair of JJ's and it did not like it at all. I put the NOS Bell & Howell's and left tube covers off and it was perfect. No noise at all, I turned all dials in every direction playing thru amp and it was perfect. Will see what happens tomorrow when I plug it back in
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I'm not satisfied with just rolling tubes until I find one that works.
I'm wondering if the LED mod is causing the circuit to be picky about which tube is plugged into V5. Tomorrow I'll put the original cathode resistor/cap in and see if it behaves better. I'll stay in touch...
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I never thought about that with the led. I will button up amp and see if it stays happy. If it does my next step is to make some pine cabs for both
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Bet you're itching for a Princeton Reverb now! :wink:
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:icon_biggrin: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: before I built these two I was Jonesing for one. I almost bought AllenAmps version since I built one of his amps already. Then Mojos version next. Now Doug's got his in the works, damn. I would like to build it in a tweed style instead of a Blackface, not sure what size I would need but I would guess a big 5E something. A 2x12 Princeton reverb in a tweed cab would be Heaven