Hoffman Amplifiers Tube Amplifier Forum
Amp Stuff => Tube Amp Building - Tweaks - Repairs => Topic started by: SILVERGUN on February 08, 2015, 06:47:04 pm
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I just whipped up a couple of head cabinets for Doug's new Stout chassis. The outside dimensions are approx. 16"W x 8.5"H x 9.25"D
It felt good to be covered in saw dust again, so I figured I'd make an offer and see if there is any interest from you guys who are buying the new chassis, but don't have the means to create your own head cab.
I will make a limited run of these, based off of how many of you guys let me know that you would want one.
I currently have 4 boxes built, and I would describe them as being "factory seconds"...meaning not perfect.
I will round over the edges and rough sand down to 220 grit.
They are made of solid, void - free pine, with dovetail joints. The attached pic is of a cab that I had produced previously.
As soon as I get one of the current cabs rounded over and sanded I'll post a new pic so you can get an idea of the actual size.
I will do these for $60 total --- $50 each plus $10 shipping (to the great 48).
If there is no interest then I will have to buy 3 more Stout chassis, so this is a win-win for Doug. :icon_biggrin:
If I have to give him a freebie to allow the advertisement, then so be it.
Let me know right here on this thread if you are interested so we can keep a running total.
If you guys twist my arm I may spit out some matching 1x12 cabs. (16"x16"x 9.25)
I'm not trying to get rich,,,, just providing a low-cost solution while I've got all the tools out and setup.
Whataya think?
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Very nicely done! Very good looking cab.
Knowing the amount of work going into making a cab head like that (with dovetails), you're offering folks quite a good deal!
With respect, Tubenit
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Thank you sir...
That pic is 1 of the 2 I built my first time around (2 years ago) that was meant for the T-Wreck.
This time through I've made it a point to get the grain lined up better so it has a wraparound look,,,so if anyone wants to just stain it, it'll look good.
The 8' boards I'm using are costing me $25 each and I can get exactly 2 heads out of each board....any bigger and it would mess up the math.
As is, they are just tall enough to get EL34s in and out of the sockets.
So, $12.50 material cost and $37.50 labor....each head takes about an hour and a half, so I'm working for about $25/hour. I'm ok with that for a one time deal. I'm hoping that it'll help sell some chassis.
As sluckey calls it, it's good saw dust therapy....good for the soul.
Chassis plus head cab for about 100 bucks....not bad.
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awesome deal.
would you be willing to add a front panel with the cutout for the chassis? of course, for more $$...
--pete
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would you be willing to add a front panel with the cutout for the chassis? of course, for more $$...
Yeah...I figured that was gonna come up.
It would sure make 'em more sellable...But I'm afraid that the additional time/labor is gonna put me up there closer to the ones on Ebay.
I'm just gonna have to figure out how to do it.
I'm definitely no skilled cabinet maker, so there will be a learning curve involved. :rolleyes:
Rectangles, I got....so I'm half the way there. :icon_biggrin:
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If you have a router (i am assuming you used one for the dovetails) you could make a template out of mdf to route out a front panel. I do this and it only takes a couple of minutes to make a front panel. I keep a second router in a routing table and put my roundover bit in that. You could also make a brace for the rear very cheaply. only thing left would be cleats (1/2" x 1/2"). The extra material cost would be minimal.
Your dovetails look really clean, you did a good job on those.
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A pair of very simple solutions
one is used by our friend Darryl
Franco
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If you have a router (i am assuming you used one for the dovetails) you could make a template out of mdf to route out a front panel. I do this and it only takes a couple of minutes to make a front panel. I keep a second router in a routing table and put my roundover bit in that. You could also make a brace for the rear very cheaply. only thing left would be cleats (1/2" x 1/2"). The extra material cost would be minimal.
Your dovetails look really clean, you did a good job on those.
Ahhh...yes, of course... A TEMPLATE!
That should be pretty painless once I perfect it.....I'll actually start working on that tonight.
Thanks for chiming in Sean.....sometimes the obvious isn't obvious.
THANKS for those examples Franco!....something like that shouldn't be too difficult
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I think that the cab in the first image has a more easy to be build front (don't care of the hole on the top)
it is done with a thin piece of wood and didn't require the use of router and/or sandpaper
Ciao
Franco
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The removable front panel like on the Pearson amp would be better for the Stout chassis, since the tubes are in the front.
If the front panel cut-out was rounded over it would be even nicer, especially if you want to put tolex on it.
This is something I was hoping somebody would take on - I will buy at least one a month if you could hold the price down to $75 shipped, including the front panel. :headbang:
Once again, great idea and thanks :worthy1:
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The removable front panel like on the Pearson amp would be better for the Stout chassis, since the tubes are in the front.
If the front panel cut-out was rounded over it would be even nicer, especially if you want to put tolex on it.
This is something I was hoping somebody would take on - I will buy at least one a month if you could hold the price down to $75 shipped, including the front panel. :headbang:
Once again, great idea and thanks :worthy1:
That all sounds do-able...
If nobody else commits we're good for 3 months, since I'll be keeping one for myself. :icon_biggrin:
Good thinking, making sure the front panel is removable....especially with the tight tolerance for taller output tube insertion / removal.
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:thumbsup: Hi buddy ol' pal!!! :hello:
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I have to say that the ValveTone cab-front appeals to me more. That thing looks like it was carved out of a single block of wood! Front held on with screws thru cleats on the inside of the cabinet. I guess the question is, with pine, can you get around those corners without grain tear-out?
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I guess the question is, with pine, can you get around those corners without grain tear-out?
You can if you route cross grain first and take about 3 passes to reach the final cut.
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:thumbsup: Hi buddy ol' pal!!! :hello:
Welp jojo,,,you were definitely one of the guys I was thinking about when I got the idea.
At least one of the first batch has your name on it.
I know you bought a couple of those chassis....just didn't know if you did your own wood work.
I guess the question is, with pine, can you get around those corners without grain tear-out?
You can if you route cross grain first and take about 3 passes to reach the final cut.
Yeah...I probably won't be putting that kind of effort into these.
Unless we really raise the price. :icon_biggrin:
Even then...I don't think I posess that skill.
I do like the look just as much, if not more than the usual JTM style.
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I would buy one!
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I would buy one!
Cool!...you're on the list.
The good news is...there will be face panels!
I stayed late after work tonight and got a template together and realized I was making it harder than it had to be.
I was gonna have to come up with something eventually for my own heads so I appreciate the kick in the pants from the boys.
Now I just gotta get some practice rounding the inside edges and I can get em rolling out the door.
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put me down,for two. :-)
--pete
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Welp jojo,,,you were definitely one of the guys I was thinking about when I got the idea.
At least one of the first batch has your name on it.
I know you bought a couple of those chassis....just didn't know if you did your own wood work.
You the motha-freakin' man! I don't want to be greedy but I'll take two to go with my two chassis if it's not too much to ask? If not, that's okay I can wait too or whatever is easy on you. As you're finding out, you're chumming the waters when they're already full of shark. I can do woodwork very well and I actually really enjoy it but it's just the time right now that's got me under the gun. My next wood project lined up has to be a new stand for my reef tank or there will be repercussions. Thank you for lookin out and please watch those fingers!
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put me down,for two. :-)
Schhwheeeat!
I'll offer a couple options and try to just cap it there:
A- Head cab with face panel cut to tight tolerance for no tolex, no piping = $75 shipped
B- Head cab with face panel cut to approx. 1/8" total side to side and top to bottom clearance for use with tolex / piping = $75 shipped
C- Head cab only with no front panel = $60 shipped
Let me know if you'll definitely be doing tolex so I won't spend too much time on finish work.
I would prefer to not see screws from the outside so I'll work on attaching the face with screws through the cleats from the inside.
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You the motha-freakin' man! I don't want to be greedy but I'll take two to go with my two chassis if it's not too much to ask? If not, that's okay I can wait too or whatever is easy on you.
Allright...now were talkin!
I'll get the first 4 done soon and divide em up so the first responders get em first.
As soon as they are ready I'll get you guys to hit me in the Paypal account.
I was hoping to get this kind of response and just bang out a bunch while the table saw is hot.
First batch of 4 can be:
- DL -1
- Ken Moon -1
- Mikhett -1
- Jojo -1
If anyone drops out DL will get his second one first.
Just need you guys to specify option A, B, or C above. Not sure of a ship date yet but I'm pushing to get these done so I can move on to the next 4. I guess I'll go in groups of four for now and see how it goes so I don't get stuck with excess inventory.
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option A for me please . i despise covering good wood with plastic. ;-)
kindly ship both of mine together if you don't mind, so push jojo's pair out first if you're ok with that.
gracias!
--pete
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option A for me please . i despise covering good wood with plastic. ;-)
kindly ship both of mine together if you don't mind, so push jojo's pair out first if you're ok with that.
Si ...no problemo...and I couldn't agree more
I like the idea of taking my time with the option A boxes, so I appreciate the leeway.
How bout yours jojo?---to tolex or not to tolex, that is the question.
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I feel the need to make a couple disclaimers and state a few facts.
- These are being sold as factory seconds so please expect a flaw or 5. If you receive one and cannot live with the quality just let me know and send it back and I'll refund the purchase price. Have low expectations and then be surprised that they actually look decent. If you let me know that you won't be covering yours in tolex, I will make it a point to pick you one (or more) of a higher cosmetic quality.
- I'll try to keep a running total and post approximate ship times, but please remember that I am just one guy with a wife and I like to watch hockey and play golf. Right now it's still in the 20s, 30's and 40's here, so no golf,,,and the good news for production is that it doesn't look like the Flyers are gonna make the playoffs, so that will allow for more box time.
-I am doing this as a favor to anyone who would like to take me up on it, just so that you don't have to make one yourself. This is not a money making proposition, and I reserve the right to pull the plug at any given time. So, if you're on the fence, please don't hesitate to order yours before I get sick of making them, or life throws me a slider. I can't see myself making anymore than 20 (?) of these, so please, get em while their hot.
- I am also doing this to try to spread some goodwill amongst men, and give my dad a reason to be proud of me. Part of my inspiration to get the blade spinning has come from watching and helping my dad through radiation and chemo in the last few months. He was always a terrible woodworker who never accommodated for the blade width, and would measure 10 times only to cut 4 or 5 bad pieces, and then changing the plan to accommodate whatever scrap he had left. He is amazed at my ability to build anything that doesn't lean to one side, and he's still trying to figure out why I would want to use dovetails when you could just use good ol nails. He's a great guy who did 30 some years with Conrail (started with Penn Central), and if I learned one thing from him it would be how not to do woodwork. :icon_biggrin:
I say he WAS a bad wood worker because he doesn't do it anymore. He IS still with us, and just starting to regain strength.
This is my own therapy.
- Right now I'm focused on just building one size cab and mass producing them. It's like making baked ziti. I never make just one tray.
It's makes way more sense to cut a bunch, then route a bunch, then glue a bunch,,etc., etc.
Yes, I am capable of making other sizes, but right now I'm trying to stay focused on the task at hand and bust out a couple batches to match the demand for the new chassis.
That's the truth, the whole truth and nothing but....
So just don't be a d!(% and we'll be cool.
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That's cool
I would like to see one with the front panel installed
That front panel can be very thin, probably 1/4 inch thick
When you look down at the face panel, the panel is not obscuring any text
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That's cool
I would like to see one with the front panel installed
That front panel can be very thin, probably 1/4 inch thick
When you look down at the face panel, the panel is not obscuring any text
Pics coming soon.
I'm gonna spend a little time tonight trying to get my round-over technique together.
Now that I know that there is interest in at least another batch of 4, I'll press on.
Thanks ALL!
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I usually use a round over bit that's half the radius of the stock to be rounded over.
If 1/2" stock I go with a 1/4" round over bit. You can use different sizes for different looks.
Brad :icon_biggrin:
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I can wait for the second batch, since the demand is so high. Whatever works best for you, I'm flexible, since this is for me.
I'll get one for now, in Option A, please. No tolex this time! If you make this an ongoing project, I'll get more later.
I've always wanted to have a natural wood head cab - I have some pieces of "select pine" from Lowe's, and I'll play around with a couple of stains and natural finishes while I wait.
Best wishes to your dad - I know from personal experience how hard chemo and radiation can be. Loving caregivers make all the difference, so bless you and your wife for sticking in there.
Peace, Ken
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SG - Can you give a measurement of the cutout width and I'll know more about how many knobs, switches, (+jack & light) I can fit. I don't have a specifically designed circuit yet but this will give me a parameter to go by. I presume that the back will be left open or some form of simple "H" design maybe for that? On which design, I normally have everything covered but a natural stain/finish look could be nice and also easiest. Plus it'll wreak of custom personalization which can be a nice thing. I may want a speaker cab to match too but not necessary right away for sure. Thanks buddy for all you do 'round here.
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SG - Can you give a measurement of the cutout width and I'll know more about how many knobs, switches, (+jack & light) I can fit. I don't have a specifically designed circuit yet but this will give me a parameter to go by. I presume that the back will be left open or some form of simple "H" design maybe for that? On which design, I normally have everything covered but a natural stain/finish look could be nice and also easiest. Plus it'll wreak of custom personalization which can be a nice thing. I may want a speaker cab to match too but not necessary right away for sure. Thanks buddy for all you do 'round here.
The front control cutout is gonna be right around 11 1/2" side to side.
The backs will be left open.
I agree about the natural / stain finish, and it just makes the finish work a little more involved, so if anyone is sure their gonna do tolex, I won't have to go as far.
Speaker cabs aren't out of the question, and again, catch me while I'm hot. :icon_biggrin:
I might be able to do those for $100 shipped. :dontknow:
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Glad the template idea worked! Because i only use aluminum chassis' i use a router and templates on them too, i can cut out the hole for a fused IEC socket in about 20 seconds, no file work afterwards. Same for valve sockets, it works great.
You are doing a good job with those, and a huge favor for the forum, thanks for effort.
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I am also doing this to try to spread some goodwill amongst men, and give my dad a reason to be proud of me.
I think this is a very cool thing you are doing! This is a truly remarkable gift and contribution to this amp building community and it's members.
:thumbsup:
These are being sold as factory seconds so please expect a flaw
To any of you who don't do woodworking .......... please note the disclaimer because as a woodworker myself, I have never done a woodworking project that did not have some flaw to it.
Silvergun will not make any real money on this given the amount of time involved to build one & low cost. I sure hope you guys will recognize what a generous gesture this is.
Silvergun, THANKS for your admirable generousity and good will! Best regards and with respect, Tubenit
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SG, you are a good man Charlie Brown. :worthy1:
AND, because of that - since your Broad Street Bullies did not hack their way in this season, you have my special permission to watch and root for the BLUES!
Jim :icon_biggrin:
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AND, because of that - since your Broad Street Bullies did not hack their way in this season, you have my special permission to watch and root for the BLUES!
go Caps!!
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AND, because of that - since your Broad Street Bullies did not hack their way in this season, you have my special permission to watch and root for the BLUES!
go Caps!!
OK, that's enough of that....
Didn't I say something about being a d!(% above in the disclaimer section.
That pertained to ALL comments on this glorious thread of goodwill and brotherly love.
If your gonna bust em you're gonna have to BUY ONE....you too, term
I think this is a very cool thing you are doing!
Thanks again sir.
It just came to me one day when I was buying the wood I needed to make my own cab.
Why not make 2, or 4, or however many it takes to fill the demand that I pictured being real,, as a result of the attention that the new chassis was getting.
And then as I started cutting wood with the big back door open, and the sun was shining in, and it hit 40,,,I just thought "well, what else would I be doing right now?".... I told my wife, "it's what guys do....we build stuff"
The current demand has come at a rate that I can keep up with,,,so for now it's still fun and therapeutic for me.
And then last night, of course,,,,my finish sander blew apart after 10 years of service. :BangHead:
:icon_biggrin:
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Poplar may be nice also
It's easy to work with and looks good natural
Pine is cheaper though
If you make the front panel detachable it can be modded if the fit needs to be modded slightly
I can see me putting the front panel on my CNC router and making some sort of fancy breather hole design
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+1 on poplar. I think it works and looks fantastic for a soft hardwood....something Ill never understand.... :think1:
Jim
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There you go talking about soft wood again :icon_biggrin:
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I can see me putting the front panel on my CNC router and making some sort of fancy breather hole design
likewise... :icon_biggrin:
--pete
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Great work Silvergun, I hope your Dad is doing well and feels better. Sorry about your sander, is it brushless motor or does the motor have brushes? I used to get all the carpenters tools on the job cause they couldn't be bothered with putting new ones in and keeping some damn good tools. If you do decide to make another size cabinet I will take you up on a option A. The AC-15 build I did here needs a home
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Great work Silvergun, I hope your Dad is doing well and feels better. Sorry about your sander, is it brushless motor or does the motor have brushes? I used to get all the carpenters tools on the job cause they couldn't be bothered with putting new ones in and keeping some damn good tools. If you do decide to make another size cabinet I will take you up on a option A. The AC-15 build I did here needs a home
Thanks lego.
I would be happy to make you a custom size for the AC-15 head. That is a beautiful build and I would be proud to be a part of it.
Now that I see how easy this is, a different size will just be a little more expensive due to the fact that I won't be able to get 2 heads out of one board.
If you give me dimensions, I can give you a number. I can also adjust the faceplate and control cutout for a few more bucks as well.
Shouldn't be too bad.
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Hey, get to work on ours first :icon_biggrin:
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Poplar may be nice also
It's easy to work with and looks good natural
I was looking at the poplar on the wall in home depot.
Most of it had some ugly greenish streaking throughout. They have 1x10x8' for $37 each.
I've been to 3 local stores trying to sort through the pine boards for straightness and some handsome grain.
So far I've only been able to gather 1 or 2 acceptable boards from each store. Any cupping of the wood creates major headaches when trying to get the dovetails right.
I also wound up with some decent 1/2" birch plywood for the faceplates. I had to sort through a bunch of that to get the color shading to be close.
Still enjoying the work and making great progress. 6 boxes built, 4 smoothed and rounded over, and waiting for finish sander to come in.
Seems like 3 or 4 of them will meet my quality control for a stain / clear finish (option A).
I'm looking forward to this weekend to put a push on the faceplates and get a couple more boxes glued up.
:thumbsup:
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That Greenish color is not a problem
I stain poplar and it comes out ok
Then clear coat with polyurethane
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Hey, get to work on ours first :icon_biggrin:
:icon_biggrin:
Are you going with option "A" as well?
Want yours in poplar?
Option descriptions in Reply #19
For anyone:
I've also got one that I messed up one of the dovetail joints when I tried to recut it, and it wound up with a lot of filler. Luckily it already had some other flaws, so it's the ugly duckling of the bunch. Anyone for an option "C"? I'll throw in the face panel for the $60.
That one's a 'factory third'
Man,,, one false move with the router and DOH!....there's is no such thing as putting wood back.
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Option A - No tolex for me
Pine or poplar is fine
Whatever you have on hand
Face panel can have tiny gap around edge for expansion
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I am not a big fan of poplar visually. (I've taken out several 90+ ft tall poplars out of my back yard)
Having said that, it is an excellent tone wood for guitar bodies and especially speaker cabs, IMO.
With respect, Tubenit
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Face panel can have tiny gap around edge for expansion
Good call. I won't make em tight-tight.
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I made a couple end tables several years ago using poplar
They came out looking ok
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Silvergun, my chassis is 21.5 inches in length by 6.5 by 2.5. I would be interested in the cab when your ready and your stout cabs are fulfilled
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Man,,, one false move with the router and DOH!....there's is no such thing as putting wood back.
No kidding, I ended up making my own router table and it made a HUGE difference. I just grabbed an old coffee table, made a mounting plate out of 2mm aluminum, then made a bracket to hold the height adjustment under the table. Total cost? $0.00. I had everything already laying around so it was cheap. A router is the most versatile power tool in the shop and using one mounted in a table will cut your labor time and improve the finished product.
Well done so far though, you are what this forum is all about.
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I have a big stand alone router table also
It's very handy
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Guys, for poplar that has greenish color in it you can lay it out in sun and it will turn redish. The cabinet combo I had made for my amp was greenish. John who made my cab said if I'm not in a rush he would sun it and it will be beautiful, well it turned out incredible.
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.75 inch thick material may even be over kill for these little lunchbox sized amps
.5 inch thick material would probably be just fine
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I had picked up a router table off of craigslist about 2 years ago.
I use it mostly for the box roundover, so once it's setup I do them all at once. I don't think I'd be able to get these results without one.
Had a lot of fun this weekend and my time paid off nicely.
Some of these will be ready to ship this week!
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The tallest tube I could find to use for clearance was this Sovtek EL34 on the left.
With it sitting on top of the chassis there is about 3/16" clearance between the top of the tube and the top of the inside of the box.
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Wow, they look great
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Wow, they look great
THANKS!
It's amazing what a good sanding will do to clean things up. It turned a couple B grades back into A grades. :icon_biggrin:
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Do you use a planer to flatten them?
I know most boards have a cup to them
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Do you use a planer to flatten them?
I know most boards have a cup to them
No... I stand in Home Depot and sort through 20 boards to find one or two good ones. :rolleyes:
I then put all of the bad ones back, 'cause I don't wanna be "that guy".
I'm lucky to have 4 Home Depot's within 10 miles so there is plenty of stock to look through. The last store I was in had ZERO acceptable boards out of about 12.
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They look great and by using 3/4" makes them very "stout" cabs indeed... pun intended. :laugh:
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How deep is that box?
I was thinking they only need to be about 8.5 inches deep
1 inch at the front and 1 inch at the rear
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They look great and by using 3/4" makes them very "stout" cabs indeed... pun intended. :laugh:
Thanks brother jojo....
I really like the overall size and propotion of length to height....the height is very similar to a Sovtek Mig 50 head, but about 3 inches less wide.
Anyone who gets one of those chassis should have one of these....I'm trying to work a fast-food type combo deal with Doug so when you order a chassis he'll ask "would you like a cab with that?" :icon_biggrin:
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How deep is that box?
I was thinking they only need to be about 8.5 inches deep
1 inch at the front and 1 inch at the rear
They are 9 1/4" as a result of using 1x10's and not ripping them down.
I agree that they could be less deep, but every additional step costs me more time.
DL already got me pretty good with the face panels. :wink: :grin:
Because of my lack of precision in the head dimensions, each one of those face panels had to be trimmed "custom"
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The edges on 1x (3/4") stock often needs to be ripped on both edges just to get rid of the dings and/or torn/ splintered wood. (Yes sometimes the round over bit will get rid of it.) You can use 1 of those round self stick sand paper disks on the side of the saw blade that's against the part you keep to sand the boards edge as you cut it, it works well, often gets 95% + of the blade marks out. Just DO NOT use a 8" or 10" blade and put a 6" disk on it. (And you should be using 1 of those plastic or wood safety push sticks on a table saw anyway.)
Because then you have to leave the blade sticking way up out of the stock and that is very dangerous. You only want the bottom of the carbide tooth to come through the stock. That way if you do make a mistake and get your finger(s) in the way there's only a little bit of blade to cut them, not 1" or 2' of blade and then that's the end of that. My father did that and he knew better. They sowed them back on but, his hand was never the same.
Don't know if you know this but you can put a drop or 2 or 3 of warm water on a ding and let it sit for a few minutes and like a sponge the dinged wood will absorb the water and the ding will disappear. Some times you have to do it twice. Some guys use an iron to speed up the process, I never tried the iron.
If the grain was torn then if you stain it, it will absorb more stain in the tear and you will see it.
Brad :icon_biggrin:
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Thanks Willabe...for all of your help.
I should've mentioned this sooner, but when I said table saw, I meant radial arm saw. (I don't have a table saw)
I'm doing all of the cross and rip cuts on a radial arm saw, and there is a time consuming song and dance when I have to change the fence or changeover operations, and assure squareness.
It's just waaaayy easier to leave them at 9 1/4" and move right from cutting to length to dovetailing....so that's what I did.
I used your suggestion of a 1/4" roundover bit on the 1/2" face panels and I really like how they turned out. :thumbsup:
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Those look great!
I'm looking forward to seeing if I can get a good finish on mine.
I guess I'll try the tru-oil finish, which takes a lot of sanding, but looked nice when I used it on a bubinga front panel.
If anyone else has a better suggestion, I'm all ears (might be good to start a new thread?)
Thanks again for doing this :headbang:
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looking good!!
--pete
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Poplar may be nice also
It's easy to work with and looks good natural
I was looking at the poplar on the wall in home depot.
Most of it had some ugly greenish streaking throughout. They have 1x10x8' for $37 each.
I've been to 3 local stores trying to sort through the pine boards for straightness and some handsome grain.
So far I've only been able to gather 1 or 2 acceptable boards from each store. Any cupping of the wood creates major headaches when trying to get the dovetails right.
Lowe's carries poplar boards that are made up of edge-joined planks. Personally, I like the looks of the Lowe's boards better. I also find it easier to find boards that aren't cupped badly with this makeup.
They usually have a thin band at one edge that I like to make the "front" of the cabinet. It's on the left in the first picture below. This head cab is still unfinished bare wood. I was going to use it to practice tolexing but I think I am going to stain it. It turned out nice I think.
Go check them out and see what you think.
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I should add that yours do look VERY nice. I wish I had a nice dovetail jig. I really like the looks of them.
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:occasion14:
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I should add that yours do look VERY nice. I wish I had a nice dovetail jig. I really like the looks of them.
Thanks Maker....
As the guys have mentioned, most of this is overkill for these little heads.
The dovetails are pretty simple once you get the jig setup right, and probably just as fast as any other joint I would have to try to make.
They were always some elusive magical maneuver that was beyond me....not anymore.
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:occasion14:
Lego, does your 21.5" length include the lips that are folded outward?
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Yep, that is with the lips added into measurement. Does the cab have tube vents on top? If not I can add that myself
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looking good!!
--pete
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Yep, that is with the lips added into measurement. Does the cab have tube vents on top? If not I can add that myself
No tube vents...that would fall under "personal customization" (which I charge $70 a minute for) :icon_biggrin:
Just let me know what your ideal outside dimensions will be and you'll be in the next batch after I finish these 8. Also, let me know the width for the face panel control cutout.
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looking good!!
Yeah man....coming soon to Texas!
I guess we should start talking about shipping addresses and the transferal of the dinaros.
You guys can use my personal email silvergunamps@gmail.com
I'm here tonight in sub-freezing temps sorting them out to see how many qualify as "A" grade.
Please be prepared to do a little sanding before final finish work, due to some handling bumps while sorting and packing them up.
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Just make that head big enough so the chassis will slide in. 21.5" chassis + 1.50"(wood thickness)+ little wiggle room on each side to get amp in and out. Say 24", I think the faceplate is 16 1/2" cutout. I'll verify that tomorrow for you
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Lowe's carries poplar boards that are made up of edge-joined planks. Personally, I like the looks of the Lowe's boards better. I also find it easier to find boards that aren't cupped badly with this makeup.
They usually have a thin band at one edge that I like to make the "front" of the cabinet. It's on the left in the first picture below. This head cab is still unfinished bare wood. I was going to use it to practice tolexing but I think I am going to stain it. It turned out nice I think.
Go check them out and see what you think.
[/quote]
I agree with MakerDP here. Unless your hardwood board comes from a large tree and is cut in the right place from that tree you will get cupping. I constructed all the cabinet doors in my house from stick lumber and learned that any board wider than four or five inches is subject to cupping if the grain showing on the end of the board is curved. This is almost always the case especially if you bleach it in the sun as suggested earlier. A way to avoid that is to rip boards to four inches wide, run the sides through a joiner. Then you glue the boards together, alternating the grains, using biscuits every six to eight inches. After that you run the board through a planer and you have a straight board. A lot more work than I ever will do again. Getting the Lowe's board that have already been made should reduce the irritation and waste of time that cupping provides. Their wide boards should have the alternating grains.
It is obvious by the pictures that you are doing good work. My experience is if the board is cupped but you can get it flat enough to make the finger joints fit properly then the cupping isn't a huge issue once it is glued. Problem is it gets frustrating to have to deal with the cupping. Makes doing this work less enjoyable.
I use Baltic birch now because it is very stable, has no voids that can rattle and make noise plus the guy in town that sells it to me will cut it to dimension from a cut list I give him so I don't need a table saw any more. He keeps his blades nice and sharp which is important to quality work. If you used Baltic birch you could go to 1/2 inch thick cabinets which would save you some money in materials and frustration in joining. Once you got your jig set up properly you could make them pretty quickly. You could then use 3/8" Baltic birch for the front panel. That will save you even more money. Only negative is you will see the plys in the finger joints but it makes a quality cabinet at a reasonable material cost and less frustration for you.
Just passing on some of my experience. Your work looks good so it is obvious you are compensating for the short-comings of the hardwood you are using. I just know how frustrating it is to deal with the cupping issue and don't want to see you quit building the cabinets because of it. Best wishes for you and your father. I lost mine about ten years ago and sure do miss him.
Thanks
Mike
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looking good!!
Yeah man....coming soon to Texas!
I guess we should start talking about shipping addresses and the transferal of the dinaros.
You guys can use my personal email silvergunamps@gmail.com
I'm here tonight in sub-freezing temps sorting them out to see how many qualify as "A" grade.
Please be prepared to do a little sanding before final finish work, due to some handling bumps while sorting and packing them up.
el dineros, aka; moolah sent.
what of the shipping charges? and the pay-pal fees, which are currently running @ 2.9%: $4.35
--pete
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I was thinking that 3/4 inch thick boards are probably over kill
Not sure if 1/2 inch thick is available
MakerDP, the poplar looks nice
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Tungoil finish on pine cabinet
it's the nicest but time consuming, it will let wood breath. Shellac is nice option.
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Silvergun,
The cabs really look fantastic! What a great & generous thing you have done here!
With respect, Tubenit
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Silvergun,
The cabs really look fantastic! What a great & generous thing you have done here!
With respect, Tubenit
I agree!
That's a great price for a really nice looking enclosure. Not everyone has the skills and tools to do a nice cabinet for their amp builds and the stuff you find on eBay is a lot more pricey than this.
As far as 3/4 vs 1/2 --- I prefer 3/4 for the shell because I am a gigging musician and my amps get loaded in the backs of pickups, SUVs and trunks several times a month. Gotta have that durability for my precious babies! :icon_biggrin:
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e-mail sent :hello:
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what of the shipping charges? and the pay-pal fees, which are currently running @ 2.9%: $4.35
I was planning to do - no combined shipping savings, and I'll eat the Paypal charge. I guess that works itself out.
Just a flat $75 for each unit shipped.
That way I won't have to do any math. :think1:
THANKS guys!
:thumbsup:
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$$$ sent :guitar1
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i had an idea about the front panel, also vented as Doug mentioned but use small magnets to hold it in place rather than screws
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i had an idea about the front panel, also vented as Doug mentioned but use small magnets to hold it in place rather than screws
It's funny that you mention that..
I wound up using steel angle brackets that are 3 1/2" long, and I thought I was going to use magnetic tape to temporarily hold the face panels on. The tape was adhesive on one side, so I stuck a strip of it to the inside of the face panel on each side.
It failed miserably, with no strength at all. (the adhesive held but there was almost no magnetic pull)
I wound up just using some short screws that didn't poke through, but you could definitely use magnets if you get some that are strong enough....the angle brackets are moveable so if you wind up with some thicker magnets you can move them back to keep the face panel back set from the front of the cab.
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Velcro?
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The front panel is part of the cabinet rigidity
It keeps the chassis from racking side to side
I know your joints are strong, just saying
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Velcro?
Definitely do-able...that was one of my thoughts but I was afraid of the cheesy-ness factor.
I did velcro on the Plexiglas Rhinol TDR panel.
It was really easy to just screw em on to get them out the door.
I'm sure guys will customize as needed.
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Rare earth magnets will do the trick
I have stacks of them
it's very difficult to pull them apart
they come in bunches of different shapes and thickneses
I get mine here with free shipping
http://www.dx.com/s/rare+earth+magnet (http://www.dx.com/s/rare+earth+magnet)
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I always make faceplates taller than the chassis. Say I have a 2" chassis, I will center everything on 2 inches, but cut the faceplate 3" tall. The top 1 inch is higher than the chassis. The corners are sharp so roundover is nice.
That way I can make the opening whatever size I want. If I want to make the opening 4.672598" and adding the tolex makes it 4.59234" I just make the faceplate 5.5 inches tall. I hope this makes sense. :laugh:
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what of the shipping charges? and the pay-pal fees, which are currently running @ 2.9%: $4.35
I was planning to do - no combined shipping savings, and I'll eat the Paypal charge. I guess that works itself out.
Just a flat $75 for each unit shipped.
That way I won't have to do any math. :think1:
THANKS guys!
:thumbsup:
Dave just have everyone gift you the money there is that option when you send money and you do not loose a dime.
Just my $.02. PM sent
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Silvergun, now that I've regained conciousness from buying Nos matched sets of tubes + rectifier for the Tremulox I rememered I need to measure the cutout for faceplate. If you make the cutout 17" it leaves 1&1/2" left on each side. If that's not enough you can make it 16&1/2, it just won't show all the red on the side. Sluckey did a great job on face plate for me
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Silvergun, now that I've regained conciousness from buying Nos matched sets of tubes + rectifier for the Tremulox I rememered I need to measure the cutout for faceplate. If you make the cutout 17" it leaves 1&1/2" left on each side. If that's not enough you can make it 16&1/2, it just won't show all the red on the side. Sluckey did a great job on face plate for me
No problem lego...I'll make it 16 3/4" :wink:
You'll be in the next batch,,,coming soon.
You too shortfuse. PM returned.
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Here's where we are:
2- boxed up and bound for bat city- done deal
2- boxed up and awaiting their passport to California- deal pending (jojo's got good credit)
1- boxed up and sitting on the dock for our fearless leader- done deal
1- boxed up and heading to the Moon- done deal
1- shortfuse- will take a reject :icon_biggrin: - deal pending
- mikhett has not re-surfaced, so I'm basically caught up with the current confirmed orders from the first run.
I have 1 of the quality control rejects that would be great for tolexing, and I cut a face panel for it already so I'm offering it up at $60.
Next batch coming soon....
1- lego4040- custom size
2- llama -multiple emails received :icon_biggrin:
1- additional for Ken Moon for next month (or whenever)
Thanks to tubenit, MakerDP and Mike J for your kind words, and Ed for that explanation :icon_biggrin:
Let me know if I'm missing anyone.
2/18***EDITED- removed the 2 for $110 offer because shortfuse will be taking one of the rejects for tolexing.
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yer a good egg SG! they look great and you are most kind to take the time to build these for us.
thank you so very much!
--pete
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Silvergun, you are a class act.
A huge collective Thank you!!! :bravo1:
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Got my cabinet today, Thanks SG
Here's a couple pics
Stout TMB and Plexi 6V6 sitting in the cabinet
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Nice!
They look sweet with the black faceplates!
:thumbsup:
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Yes they do
The workmanship is great on those
Now I have to apply some finish before I get greasy hand prints on it
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:worthy1:
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I slapped some flat stain onto my cabinet today
I still have to apply a couple coats of clear coat
I added a Fender combo handle and four rubber feet
Four Rivnuts were installed in the chassis and I have it secured on the cabinet with #10 truss head screws and washers
I stock all that mounting hardware on this page
http://hoffmanamps.com/MyStore/catalog/MiscHardware.htm (http://hoffmanamps.com/MyStore/catalog/MiscHardware.htm)
I still plan on opening up the front panel for some air ventilation.
Here's a couple pics
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I like that color. What brand, color, etc.?
Did the stain go on even or were there any blotchy places?
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Nice work there, if your keeping your back completely open you think you'll need more ventelation then that?
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I like that color. What brand, color, etc.?
Did the stain go on even or were there any blotchy places?
I'll get you the brand when I get to the shop
I think it was some some of Maple color?
It's a water based stain which I have never used before
Normally I use a polyurethane with color and clear and do it in one step, but I already had this one the shelf and so I used it
It went on fine, just like any other stain
I apply it heavy with a cloth, work it in and then wipe the excess off with another cloth
That's one coat in the pics
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Nice work there, if your keeping your back completely open you think you'll need more ventelation then that?
Probably not but I think the front would look way nicer with a oval shaped opening
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I dont use the water base stains on pine that much once I sand my wood down to 220 I wet the wood and let it dry to raise the hairs. I repeat and work my way up to 400 grit. I use minwax oil stain and depending on time frame I usually use a concoction of poly/tung/linseed. Craps like steel when done but works great. Or I use the poly satin spray and that works great too and quicker
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Here ya go Steve
The color is Vermont Maple
I have no idea when or where I got this can, but it was brand new and had never been opened
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Hey, that looks great! Very nice SG and Doug! :bravo1:
Doug how do you like the rivnuts?
Can we see a side/end pic too?
(Ya' know, :undecided: if you have a good table saw you could have cut some of the depth of the cab off before you stained it. Takes 4 cuts, keeper side between blade and fence, scrap just falls away. Then hit it with the round over again.)
Brad :icon_biggrin:
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Doug how do you like the rivnuts?
Love em
So easy to install and nothing that can come off and get lost like a cage nut
No need to reach inside to try and thread on a nut
(Ya' know, :undecided: if you have a good table saw you could have cut some of the depth of the cab off before you stained it. Takes 4 cuts, keeper side between blade and fence, scrap just falls away. Then hit it with the round over again.)
Yea, I thought about that before I received the cabinet, but you know, the proportions look really nice.
It really could be about 1 inch less deep than it is.
And the width could be shortened also because when you use rivnuts, there's no reason to reach inside to thread on a not.
I'll leave that up to SG, but if it was me, I would probably shrink the cabinet down some more
Can we see a side/end pic too?
here ya go
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Nice job! I am impressed!
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Thanks, It will look even nicer when it get some clear coats
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Even though the current size is pretty nice, I think the size could be trimmed down some more.
Maybe about 1 inch off the back and some off the sides
Just enough off the sides to leave about 1/8th inch on each side of the chassis wings
The height is good
You can use 6L6's with the current height
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Got mine today :icon_biggrin:
Looks great - many thanks :headbang:
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Love it and the Ptouch, TrainWreck did the same
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Well lego.....get your sandpaper and stain ready :icon_biggrin:
Had sometime today and dedicated it to completing lego's cab. Only took a break to watch 2 periods of hockey.
He had requested poplar and I had to visit 2 Home Depots to find a good piece. :rolleyes:
Final dimensions turned out to be 24"W x 9 1/4"H x 8 5/8" D with a 17" wide control opening.
I did take the time to rip down the depth and it took a little finageling, but wasn't all that bad after all.
The size of this thing made me appreciate how easy it is to work with the smaller heads.
I'm very happy to hear the positive reviews and appreciate all of the feedback.
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See, poplar looks good!
I like poplar
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See, poplar looks good!
I like poplar
Yeah, me too....and my router liked it better....much smoother to cut and work
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We'll have to do the Stout cab in poplar :wink:
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Ok, I'll take one in poplar
But can you reduce the size a bit as per my post a few post up?
Hate to ask, but I do think you can skinny the cab size down a bit
I can get you the exact inside dimensions tomorrow
Basically 1/8th inch play on each side of the chassis wings side to side
One inch past the back side of the chassis including a 1/16th inch face plate that is stuck to the front of the chassis
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Ok, I'll take one in poplar
But can you reduce the size a bit as per my post a few post up?
Hate to ask, but I do think you can skinny the cab size down a bit
I can get you the exact inside dimensions tomorrow
Basically 1/8th inch play on each side of the chassis wings side to side
One inch past the back side of the chassis including a 1/16th inch face plate that is stuck to the front of the chassis
Most definitely.
I'll go off of the measurements you give me.
And I agree 100% that it will make it right.
I'll start looking for another piece of poplar. :icon_biggrin:
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Just don't buy 1x12" stock, buy 1x10".
Look, a radial arm saw is a great tool/saw for Cross cutting, but it is Not great for ripping.
That blade WILL because the blade is over the top of the stock to be cut, it WILL climb up and RUN towards the operator and kick the stock, and if the stock kick's, it can take your HAND with it.
Now this could be wrong, but, I was taught to place 1 hand on the radial arm saw bench for stability and the other hand, that 'pulls' the 'saw arm', you 'lock' your shoulder, elbow and wrist. That way, you can stop the blade from climbing and running away.
Brad
Edit; I meant for any kind of cut with a radial arm saw. You lock your arm, elbow and wrist straight.
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Ripping wood on a radial arm saw is scary
A table saw is scary enough as it is.
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Those are sharp looking SG. I had a Radial saw and it was great but scary as hell with an entire blade out. If you dont or can't spend money on a decent table saw you can make one with a hand circular saw and wood laying around with fantastic results and when your done, you just break it down. Check out Izzy Swans basic one which attaches to a existing bench here http://youtu.be/NhORUN6oCUc (http://youtu.be/NhORUN6oCUc)
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I'll start looking for another piece of poplar. :icon_biggrin:
Found another really nice short piece of poplar today in the last HD I have to choose from. Perfect for the stout cab.
Let's nail down the measurements.
I'm thinkin 15"W overall leaves 13 1/2" on the inside width and my stout chassis is 13 1/4" wide (ouside lip to outside lip)
Height is OK at approx. 8 1/2"
Depth could be 8 3/8" - 8 1/2" depending on preference. (?)
Also found 1 more 8' pine out of 15(?) possible candidates :rolleyes:
I'm probably gonna start winding down head production at the end of the month and might wind up doing a 5E3 cab for an amp order I just got.
How do these plans look?
Should I do 2, 3, 6??? :icon_biggrin:
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Sweet. Later on in the year I may bug you for a 5G9 narrow panel :icon_biggrin:
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I'm thinkin 15"W overall leaves 13 1/2" on the inside width and my stout chassis is 13 1/4" wide (ouside lip to outside lip)
Height is OK at approx. 8 1/2"
Depth could be 8 3/8" - 8 1/2" depending on preference. (?)
Thanks,
I'll check the depth tomorrow when I get to the shop
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Doug those face plates look great will you make a stout or plexi 6V6 face plate on a custom order?
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I've been thinking about trying amplates for my 5G9 build, anyone ever use them? Doug does not make face plates for the public, to time consuming I believe.
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Doug those face plates look great will you make a stout or plexi 6V6 face plate on a custom order?
No, sorry, I don't make face plates for sale
They would be $150 each for all the work it takes me to make one
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Here's where we stand today after another productive weekend:
1- legos' custom head is complete - ready to ship - deal pending
1- shortfuse done - ready to ship - done deal except need shipping address
2- Llama - 1 done, leftover from first batch,,,,plus one more from this new batch
Built 4 more raw cabs over the weekend and got them down to the rounding over process.
Got the poplar for Doug's Stout box ready to go, just need depth measurement....looks like 8 3/8" to me is perfect.
DL should be receiving his first 2 today, and may want some of this current batch - 2 (confirmed) with 9 3/4" x 2" cutout
Ken moon may want one more out of this current batch (for next month) - 1 (confirmed)
Got a PM from another guy this morning who says he wants one.
It's just starting to get old, but my craftsmanship has hit an all time high thanks to all the practice.
This will probably signal the coming of the end of the heavy production cycle, as I don't see myself doing another batch of 4.
Thanks again guys!
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8.375 deep will work fine
13.5 inside will work fine
same height as before
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got mine today. superb!
thank you very, very much!
--pete
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in an ideal world, i would like two with 9 3/4" x 2" opening for the zilker chassis. for monatery reasons, if you could delay until after 1 march...
however, if you're shutting down, please build for others first.
respectfully,
--pete
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in an ideal world, i would like two with 9 3/4" x 2" opening for the zilker chassis. for monatery reasons, if you could delay until after 1 march...
however, if you're shutting down, please build for others first.
respectfully,
--pete
I've got 2 more set aside for you. I haven't cut the face panels yet so 9 3/4" x 2" is no problem and no more cost.
I wanted to make sure you were cool with the quality (or lack thereof :undecided:) of the 2 you got.
The exact date of the sale doesn't matter and I will continue as planned.
Thanks and I'm glad to hear they passed QC!
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in an ideal world, i would like two with 9 3/4" x 2" opening for the zilker chassis. for monatery reasons, if you could delay until after 1 march...
however, if you're shutting down, please build for others first.
respectfully,
--pete
I've got 2 more set aside for you. I haven't cut the face panels yet so 9 3/4" x 2" is no problem and no more cost.
I wanted to make sure you were cool with the quality (or lack thereof :undecided: ) of the 2 you got.
The exact date of the sale doesn't matter and I will continue as planned.
Thanks and I'm glad to hear they passed QC!
thanks dr., please send an invoice on or after 1 march to my paypal addie.
muchly appreciated.
--pete
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thanks dr.,
:icon_biggrin:
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Hey Silvergun,
Man you've been busy. Let me know in advance when you want me to come pick 'em up and pay the remainder.
I plan on running the excess depth along a table saw, and using an extra face panel for the back, adding venting of course.
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Hey Silvergun,
Man you've been busy. Let me know in advance when you want me to come pick 'em up and pay the remainder.
I plan on running the excess depth along a table saw, and using an extra face panel for the back, adding venting of course.
Llama, I'm looking forward to seeing you and your checkbook in my shop at your earliest convenience.
Please continue our email conversation to finalize the details of your visit. You are always welcome.
We should iron out the details of your extra cover panels. Other than that, the boxes are built and sitting here waiting for your arrival.
Tell your wife you're doing charity work.
:icon_biggrin:
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Here's SG's Stout Chassis cabinet all finished up and a design cut into the front panel
I think it looks awesome
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:worthy1: CNC machined? That is old school radio looking
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very, very nice...
--pete
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Thank guys
I am digging the old school radio look
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Doug,
That front panel is VERY cool!! Impressive.
With respect, Tubenit
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Just think Doug, if that hole was round you could have slipped a vintage back-lit tuner dial in there :laugh: Heck, maybe even an old Vu Meter.
As it sits that cab is now the coolest looking head cab I have seen in years, gorgeous!!!.
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I think it looks awesome
Me too.
WOW! that is cool
:huh:
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Thanks Guys
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OK, time for another update...
ALL paid boxes have shipped.
Some guys have contacted me through PM but no one has followed up to confirm. I have answered all PMs.
Production is winding down, so if you have contacted me and still want a cab, now is the time to commit.
The next group out the door will be:
2- LLama
2- DL
1- Ken Moon
1- custom size for shortfuse
That will leave me with ZERO remaining boxes.
I will build the rest of the boxes for the guys that have contacted me and have yet to commit IF you are listed below and can commit within the next week.
1- mikhett
1- Bigampman
1- JBP- (EDIT) commited
Please post on this thread, PM me, or use my email to contact me and confirm your order.
(DL, llama, Mr. Moon have already commited, so no need for further action from you 3)
THANKS guys!
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That's a commit from me. Thanks, Jeff
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S.G., can you make the 2 for me the original depth please? the chassis i'm using for these is 8" deep, unlike the stout chassis which is 6 1/2" deep.
thanks,
--pete
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That's a commit from me. Thanks, Jeff
Got it...thank YOU Jeff!
1- poplar as per your original PM
S.G., can you make the 2 for me the original depth please? the chassis i'm using for these is 8" deep, unlike the stout chassis which is 6 1/2" deep.
Got it amigo...my pleasure
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That's a commit from me. Thanks, Jeff
Got it...thank YOU Jeff!
1- poplar as per your original PM
S.G., can you make the 2 for me the original depth please? the chassis i'm using for these is 8" deep, unlike the stout chassis which is 6 1/2" deep.
Got it amigo...my pleasure
gracias!
--pete
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:happy1: got it SG. I will get my sandpaper and prep this baby. I didn't open box yet though, I will hit HDWRE store and choose my two tone colors
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:l2: SG, at first when I looked at box today I thought I got a welder. The box you shipped cab in is a Miller box and I recognized the logo. I wet entire cab down and raised the hairs, knocked that down with 320 and then my porter cable Palm finishing sander shit itself. Luckily it was the foam padding that the sand paper sits on. I quickly cut a thick cardboard cutout to shape. I took the piece apart, gaffer taped it back on, re secured and was back in business. I will order the foam replacement this week. I'll hit it with 320-400-600 and then stain. My wife's in Vegas and I tur the dining room into my wood shop :grin:
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My wife's in Vegas and I tur the dining room into my wood shop :grin:
Uh-o. :w2: :l2:
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it was hot and humid day in south texas, so i was rebuilding a pair of ford 428CJ heads on the dining room table where it was nice and cool, ma was supposed to be out of town... oops! jeez what's the big deal ma??? i put cardboard on the table!!
--pete
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Yeah, he put cardboard on the table. :laugh:
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So I got the cab stained colonial maple, looks awesome on the poplar. The face plate was some dark concoction I had and the two complement each other well. It's hanging and drying in the living room window soaking up the sun. Tomorrow I'll see if it needs more stain. My only flaw is on one side of the head where the dovetails are is glue sucked into grain and I couldn't tell until I put stain on and it wouldn't take. If it was warmer and I had a a belt sander I would sand it down again along grain. It happens in woodworking to me before. These are beautiful poplar heads SG. 428CJ heads, do you have the Mustang Cobra to go along with it or is it in another ride?
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428CJ heads, do you have the Mustang Cobra to go along with it or is it in another ride?
no mustang. the engine and 4 sp. trans were salvaged out of a wrecked torino GT. sold them a few years later to pay tuition for a semester.
--pete
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Selling those now, I miss my hotrods
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Dried overnight, I may hit faceplate w more stain
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That looks GREAT lego!! :thumbsup:
Sorry I've been MIA guys...
I started a 1x12 Princeton type cab and it's a little time consuming.
Those will cost you MUCH more! :icon_biggrin:
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Nice lego
No hurry on the other cabinet for me, but when will it be here. :icon_biggrin:
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I hit the box with three coats of Tung Oil with buffing in between. I am not gonna apply Poly, it's to nice. I need feet and handle, I actually have hardware from my 66 bassman head(I should sell those?)this was all after I spent early morning in pediatrics ER with 4yr old and a asthema episode in the middle of the night
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No hurry on the other cabinet for me, but when will it be here. :icon_biggrin:
Tomorrow!!!
:happy1:
Barring anymore severe weather... :rolleyes:
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yeah we got snowed on twice down south last week
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$$$ sent for second cab.
I stained the first one with a 50/50 mix of Warm Cherry and Honey Maple rub-on oil stain, and I just put the first of 4 or 5 coats of semi-gloss rub-on finish on the bottom.
When that dries, I'll flip it over and do the rest.
I've never used the wipe-on finishes before, but it looks pretty good :icon_biggrin:
(http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t346/jaxmoons04/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-03/IMG_20150302_122043.jpg)
Thanks again, SG :worthy1:
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That looks good
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That looks good
Yeah it does...nice work Ken!
$$$ sent for second cab.
Got it and THANKS again.....head will ship by end of this week
:thumbsup:
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nice color blend ken. beautiful!
these are some nice cabinets. thanks so much SG!
:icon_biggrin:
--pete
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Got my Poplar cab today
Looks good SG
I like the smaller size allot
I did find one snag. The metal brackets are hitting the chassis and preventing the chassis from sitting flush against the front panel.
It's because the chassis is not as wide
I'll have to move the brackets up about 1/2 inch
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Got my Poplar cab today
Looks good SG
Thanks for the quick service
I did find one snag. The metal brackets are hitting the chassis and preventing the chassis from sitting flush against the front panel.
It's because the chassis is not as wide
I'll have to move the brackets up about 1/2 inch
Ahhhh....never thought about that
Those brackets were crooked anyway :embarrassed:....musta been a late night
Those new dimensions really made for a great sized cab...like a high powered lunchbox.
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I think the smaller box is the way to go
I'll know more after I get it all together and a chassis mounted
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Got the cabs safe & sound, thank you so much again "cab man" :thumbsup:
(I'm thinking my first amp for one these will become the "Evil Joebot" :icon_biggrin: )
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Got the cabs safe & sound, thank you so much again "cab man" :thumbsup:
(I'm thinking my first amp for one these will become the "Evil Joebot" :icon_biggrin: )
Alright!....great news....you are the last recipient of the first batch :occasion14:
... looking forward to seeing the Evil Joebot take shape.
2 circles in the face panel and you're there....don't even need a CNC for that look. :icon_biggrin:
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5 coat of tung oil on, every coat makes the beauty Pop right out. I'll let this dry for a few days. Bring the head home and put together.
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Doing some clear satin polyuretane coats on my Poplar cab
The blonde look is pretty cool
I'll take pic tomorrow
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Got my small cab today Dave your to hard on yourself this tolexer could be stained with no problem at all super happy with it.
Now to build the stout or plexi 6v6 I am leaning towards the plexi 6v6. 2 other old projects to finish up 1st.
Again great quality cab at a great price.
Thanks again
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Got my Stout TMB mounted in the Poplar cabinet
Have not had time to cut a pattern into the front panel yet
The blonds wood looks really nice
The flash washed it out in the pic below
It looks way better in natural light
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Looks great Doug! Do you get those faceplates done by a trophy engraving place or ???
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I did them on my CNC machine
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They are sweet looking, Tungoil has dried 72hrs on mine. To poly or not to poly that is the question. I'll 0000 wool it and see what happens
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I ended up swapping cabinets between my two Stout chassis amps
I like the Poplar cabinet the best and so I put my Plexi 6V6 in that cabinet
The smaller sized poplar cabinet is great
The Stout TMB wet into the pine cabinet
I had some time today to CNC the front panel on the Poplar cabinet
Both cabinets have satin finish polyurethane
Check out the grain on the poplar cabinet
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Last update for the foreseeable future....
ALL paid boxes have shipped except for one box that hasn't been picked up by UPS yet.
Doug, those heads look great and I'm very proud and honored to have supplied the cabinets for you.
I have moved on to a Princeton cab build and a full amp build to go in it. These cabs have helped my craftsmanship get to a level where I finally feel comfortable making a complete combo cab that I can be proud of.
There was one casualty of war. My table mounted router went out in a blaze of glory, right as I was finishing rounding over the last cab.
Smoke, sparks, grinding noise would have eventually caught fire if I hadn't shut it off quickly.
I took it as the sign that my wood working project had come to a close and that it was time to fire up the soldering iron again.
THANK YOU to everyone who participated and I hope that these cabs met your expectations. I was able to pocket a little profit and more importantly blow off a tremendous amount of steam in the process.
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Thanks SG
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:occasion14:
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thank you so much SG!! can't wait to get the zilker cabinets.
on a side note, would you kindly email a tracking number?
--pete
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I need 12 of the deep cabinets, and 8 of the thin cabinets, 16 1x12 cabinets matching the width of the head cabs with 8 of those being angled, 6 4x10 cabinets with three angled, 44 4x12 cabinets with 22 being angled, 16 2x15 reflex bass bins, and last but not least - 2 1x5 cabs for my computer. And I need them all by early next week. My band is playing at a little corner bar next weekend. We need some sound reinforcement. Failure to deliver will prove that you never really liked me even though I've always been nice to you. :dontknow:
Jim :icon_biggrin:
PS.... "Some?"
" :rolleyes: "
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The cutout work on your fronts look superb, Doug.
The local historical radio society had an auction of old radios this last weekend and I wandered in. I don't really wish to get involved in that type of meticulous authentic restoration work, but the cabinet work on some of those old radios was just delightful. They had some tube testers of the type you'd find in a drug store, but from the 20's, 30's not the ones from the 50's-60's (which are plenty quaint---and they some of those too) but the ones from the 20's were just fantastic.
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I need 12 of the deep cabinets, and 8 of the thin cabinets, 16 1x12 cabinets matching the width of the head cabs with 8 of those being angled, 6 4x10 cabinets with three angled, 44 4x12 cabinets with 22 being angled, 16 2x15 reflex bass bins, and last but not least - 2 1x5 cabs for my computer. And I need them all by early next week. My band is playing at a little corner bar next weekend. We need some sound reinforcement. Failure to deliver will prove that you never really liked me even though I've always been nice to you.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l91ISfcuzDw# (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l91ISfcuzDw#)
Working on that tracking # DL
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Found my brackets for front and her she is guys
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Hey, very nice!
Brad :bravo1:
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Cute :bravo1:
Franco
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I made these back panels for safety(I got small children) and to pretty it up. I will secure them this weekend. Cooper tube just to hold while I take photo
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Nice work boys