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September 07, 2025, 09:43:45 am
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81
Tube Amp Building - Tweaks - Repairs / Re: B15N build question about heater elevation
« Last post by Willabe on September 03, 2025, 07:03:35 am »
Not hard to build a dc heater stand off, 2 R's and a cap.
82
Hi,
The 220k in question is one that I replaced.  I did remove it and double check it and it does measure correctly out of circuit.  I'm assuming that something else is amiss there. That right in an area where I replaced cathode bypass caps and resistors, so I'm going to remove those and clean and re install those to make sure they are correct as well.
83
DIY Layout Creator and Custom Boards / Re: Pro Junior Layout
« Last post by EL34 on September 03, 2025, 04:33:52 am »
Nice work
If you want, I will upload these to the .diy library?
84
Tube Amp Building - Tweaks - Repairs / B15N build question about heater elevation
« Last post by Bieworm on September 03, 2025, 02:01:04 am »
Hey guys

I've been wondering about implementing a 50VDC heater elevation circuit on a planned B15N build.
It "looks like" tapping from the 50V bias tap of the power transformer is easier than creating a voltage divider on the B+. I've read a post on this forum where that is discussed and found to be a good idea. But when I googled " heater elevation on 50V bias tap" the AI answer is completely the opposite:
Why Not Use the 50V Bias Tap?
Low Current:
Bias supplies are designed for very low current (a few mA) and are high-impedance, which makes them unsuitable for driving the heater supply and achieving a stable elevation voltage.
Impedance Issues:
Connecting the heater supply to a 50V tap could result in an unstable or noisy elevation voltage, and could also affect the bias point of the power tube.
Not the Intended Function:
The purpose of heater elevation is to improve signal-to-noise ratio by moving the heater reference point above the cathode, which is not the function of a bias tap.

So now I'm confused whether to do it on the 50V tap or not.

here's the post on EL34world: https://el34world.com/Forum/index.php?topic=30961.0#google_vignette
85
DIY Layout Creator and Custom Boards / Pro Junior Layout
« Last post by CrasseDeMeule on September 03, 2025, 01:29:05 am »
Hi all!!
Based on the Hoffman schematic, here is the DIYLC file for those who would like to use...
Many people use PDF, but many use now DIYLC now...

I also integrated a impedance switch mod.
86
Tube Amp Building - Tweaks - Repairs / Re: Questions about Rehabilitating a 65 Super Reverb
« Last post by SEL49 on September 02, 2025, 11:30:59 pm »
Maybe it's as simple as the 220K is open or has a bad connection. I would disconnect one end of the 220K to measure its resistance.
87
No it should be 470k||220k with the pot cut (as this puts the resistors in parallel). However, if there is a leak in say the coupling cap after the second stage of the Vibrato channel, this could put other resistors (the 100k plate resistor on the 2nd stage in the vibrato channel and the 3m3) into the equation. Or if the 500pF cap going to the reverb driver was leaking DC, this could put the 3m3 and the 1M in the equation.
88
Tubeswell,
So 480k with the reverb cut is ok then? If so, then that section seems good.
Any other troubleshooting ideas?
I’m starting to think I’ve gotten too far over my head with this…
89
You should be measuring 470k||220k when the reverb level pot is cut. If something is funny with one of the coupling caps in the reverb driver circuit or the vibrato channel, you might get a funny resistance reading.
90
Tube Amp Building - Tweaks - Repairs / Re: Hum and Buzz in Cordovox Build
« Last post by Platefire on September 02, 2025, 09:12:16 pm »
Just some things to check:

check continuity form Signal 5 to B7 on 9 pin connector

Try disconnecting NFB

Check continuity on V2a from junction of 1m & 1.2K resistors to G4 Ground
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