5E3 tone stack & PAB & midboost

[tubenit]

I don't adjust the tone stack settings very much. I am more likely to flip a switch like a midboost or a PAB to change a tone.

So, I was thinking about how to simplify a tone stack but retain the midboost & PAB.

I have not tried this yet.

With respect, Tubenit

[tonewood]

I don't adjust the tone stack settings very much. I am more likely to flip a switch like a midboost or a PAB to change a tone.

With respect, Tubenit

Same here.
Tubenit, did you try this yet?
The 5E3 vs redrawn 5E3 ckt look different. In the altered version it looks like the input wired to the output is shorting past the bright cap making it ineffective. Am I looking at this wrong?
Thanks

[Tyrannocaster]

Pardon my ignorance, but what is a PAB? I mean, what does the acronym mean? I can read the schematic.

[tonewood]

Pardon my ignorance, but what is a PAB? I mean, what does the acronym mean? I can read the schematic.

Pre Amp Boost? remove the tone ckt?

[Geezer]

Pardon my ignorance, but what is a PAB? I mean, what does the acronym mean? I can read the schematic.

Pre Amp Boost? remove the tone ckt?

Correct, PAB = PreAmpBoost.....it's Dumble terminology, used on several of his amp designs, but especially the OverDrive Special (ODS)

G

[tubenit]

I am not seeing the difference between the 5E3 and the redrawn 5E3 that is directly next to it.  (other than how they are drawn)

Can you indicate where they are different in functionality?    

The psuedo/quasi- 5E3 shown inside the schematic is definitely different.  I have not gotten around to trying it yet, but plan to.

And the quasi-5E3 is the one I have been using on my builds and I like it.

With respect, Tubenit

[tonewood]

I am not seeing the difference between the 5E3 and the redrawn 5E3 that is directly next to it.  (other than how they are drawn)
Can you indicate where they are different in functionality?    

With respect, Tubenit

If you adjust the volume and tone pots to their half way points, there will be some resistance between the input and output in the drawing on the left. With the tone and volume adjusted the same way in the drawing on the right (redrawn version), there will be no resistance between the input and output.
In the drawing on the left, the center of the tone pot is directly connected to the output. Not so in the redrawn version. I think??

[sluckey]

There's a dead short between input and output.

[DummyLoad]

fixed.   

:-)

--DL

[sluckey]

There just really isn't any elegant way to draw that circuit! 

[tubenit]

Ah, yes!    What DL said!   Thanks

With respect, Tubenit

[DummyLoad]

There just really isn't any elegant way to draw that circuit! 

true dat! we (i do anyway) make an effort to avoid crossed lines when drawing a schematic. the original fender schematic does not indicate pot orientation and that can be confusing to novices.


--DL

[Tyrannocaster]

the original fender schematic does not indicate pot orientation and that can be confusing to novices.

So true! It gets me every time (I'm not very accomplished at this) and I always have to look at their layout. But having said that, to me, those Fender schematics and layouts are really the Holy Grail of written guitar amp circuitry; they are so beautifully drawn and clear to read in a functional sense that I just love them. When I look at those, I have the illusion of understanding, LOL.