I've salvaged numerous amps of that sort.
My general comments: Most of the time, unless you have great sheet-metal tools available, the time & effort you might spend mechanically re-working a completely outsize chassis would be better spent buying a Mojo or other chassis or one from China on ebay with tube socket holes pre-punched, and the corners spot-welded, so that thing is sound, the holes are nicely aligned, etc; Not so much so for your electrohome chassis, that is workable as is.
A lot of the time, these things have a choke that is bigger than the OT, LOL. Irritating. +8 lbs. Takes up more room than you can spare on most amp layouts.
Probably the PT and OT are perfectly adaptable to a 6V6 or 6L6 Fenderish circuit and will work fine. It is wise to evaluate the B+ possibilities of the power trans by pulling the 5U4 or other rectifier and measuring (carefully) your AC just to see what you might expect. Or you could stay with 7591's, they're just generally more expensive and a tad less available than 6V6/6L6. Sometimes you get into a situation where the B+ is apparently not enough for say a high-powered pair of 6L6, and some times you can fix this by going with a SS rectifier which usually adds 30-50 volts to your B+. Sometimes you can't. The bad outcome is when you can't really power 6L6's the way you would want so you go with 6V6 but are stuck with a 12 lb power trans, way oversize. Works fine, wish it were lighter.
Baldwin organ guts often have lots of 12AX7's, which is great. Conns usually have mostly 12AU7, a far less useful tube. Boo.
Assuming they work, the power and output trannies can almost certainly be worked into a working geetar amp of some kind, and with careful circuit selection, a nice one.
Take some time to evaluate what you have and what you would like to end up with, and ponder the feasibility of what you want to do. Instead of starting out enthusiastically and finding yourself walking into a blind alley later. *It will patiently wait for you to decide*.
My belief is that once you have determined feasibility, the easiest and cheapest way to turn the entire project into something useful, especially if have a grossly oversize chassis as you say, is to find a dead solid state combo amp for really cheap, $10-$25, gut it, and build your new amp on the old chassis. Yes, you will struggle with certain things. But your cabinet, tolex, corners, grill cloth, maybe or maybe not a usable speaker and handle will all be present and you could spend $200 or more buying those things and some number of hours assembling same.
Amp built upon CONN organ chassis. (Work in progress)
There were so many holes in the top surface in places where I really did not want them that I fabbed a sheet to cover almost all of the top surface and remade the holes for the sockets, etc;
IF YOU DO THIS:
Be VERY SURE you drill all the holes you will need for transformer mounting, parts board standoff mounting, anything you can think of, because when you have two pieces of sheet metal "permanently" sandwiched together (eg; after you have mounted all your tube sockets, etc; etc; should you drill any new holes, the drill will generate a burr between the pieces of sheet metal and bulge the two pieces of metal apart and you will NOT be able to fix it.