Most of those are single-ended. (DC30 is push-pull, right?) ...
You're correct of course, though that's not so much my point. I'm pointing out that if "max power output" is not a requirement, a
range of different loads are acceptable pending a check that the tubes won't overheat with the range of probable drive signals.
I had a mental-block about transformer loads for a lotta years, on facts that should have been "obvious" after a week of reading. Like many on forums, I didn't see the tube/transformer relationship as being very-simple "Volts, Resistance, Current" and tended to think in the terms I now see others repeat: "the EL84
wants 8kΩ."
Folks fall into this trap and think there's one correct load, regardless of the supply voltage or class of operation, or even whether the builder needs/wants max output power.
On those other forums, I've also seen near-universal need for a way to deliver less power to the speakers: guys are chasing every combination of attenuators, reactive loads, master volumes, re-amp solutions, load boxes because they can't use their amp's native volume-before-distortion.
So Joel wants to use the junk-box transformer. Can he? Probably, as long as "all the watts" isn't a goal, and maybe the supply voltage is brought down from stock (though I'd have to spend more time investigating the design than I really have to devote).
I'm thinking of it somewhat like putting Prius wheels a pickup: it's less capable, but as long as the drivetrain isn't scraping the ground Joel can use the Prius-wheels he's got, and he might be okay with the outcome. If Joel wants a full-capability truck, he shouldn't bind himself to the sets of wheels sitting in the garage.
... The attached picture is what I came up with using 300V anode voltage with my 5.8k output transformer. ...
The challenge now is finding a power transformer that will give me that low a B+ voltage with the required current capacity.
Kudos on diving into load lines!
~300v is where my vintage AC30s and AC10 sit. They use "proper load" transformers.
Now let's be mentally-flexible and ask, "What about 200-250v?" Consider re-working your loadlines with an eye moving the B+ down into that range, where it no longer strays above the dissipation curve (though a brief excursion above the curve is not a big deal in practice).
You will learn some stuff from this:
- "A good OT load" is whatever seems to work as a balance between the tube's (plate current) capabilities and the supply voltage to be used.
- You'll have to go explore power transformer options to see if "the bright idea" is supported by available parts.
- The "cost savings" of using junk-box parts can often be overwhelmed by the expense of changing other parts of the amp-design, or in the time burden of re-thinking the amp-design.