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Hoffman Amps Forum image Author Topic: Solder Sucker vs Wick on 3DPT PCB  (Read 4609 times)

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Offline jordan86

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Solder Sucker vs Wick on 3DPT PCB
« on: November 13, 2020, 02:30:52 pm »
I know there are other forums that have addressed this but wanted to consult the sharp minds here before I proceed. I have a 3PDT switch acting up on an Electro Harmonix Soul Food pedal. It's about 6 years old, so I think I will go ahead replace the switch.

I have plenty of solder braid/wick, but no solder sucker. Worth the time and money to get a sucker for this? I like saving money but willing to do it right and grab a sucker pen if that's going to save me some heartache. Attached a photo. The switch is connected to a smaller PCB that ties into the larger circuit.

Thanks in advance!

Offline shooter

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Re: Solder Sucker vs Wick on 3DPT PCB
« Reply #1 on: November 13, 2020, 02:52:05 pm »
The "proper" tool would be a de-soldering tool, heats up, melts solder, hit switch to suck.
I don't have one, not a big fan of the mechanical suckers + solder pencil,  so I use fluxed wick. 
do 1 post, then next, don't "stay on" the same post, work them all and let things cool.  You're supposed to mask up n hole-up in the basement anyway so plenty of time 
Went Class C for efficiency

Offline jordan86

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Re: Solder Sucker vs Wick on 3DPT PCB
« Reply #2 on: November 13, 2020, 03:44:35 pm »
Thanks, Shooter.

Offline DummyLoad

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Re: Solder Sucker vs Wick on 3DPT PCB
« Reply #3 on: November 13, 2020, 06:43:51 pm »
i have one of these for PCB work. you'll need to buy an assortment of different tip sizes. the stand is another 40 bux.


this one works well and is the acme of single shot types - avod the smaller ones - they suck bad.


--pete

Offline Latole

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Re: Solder Sucker vs Wick on 3DPT PCB
« Reply #4 on: November 14, 2020, 03:42:41 am »
I use the original Soldapullt DS017 with desoldering braid


Offline Latole

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Re: Solder Sucker vs Wick on 3DPT PCB
« Reply #5 on: November 14, 2020, 03:45:06 am »
i have one of these for PCB work. you'll need to buy an assortment of different tip sizes. the stand is another 40 bux.


this one works well and is the acme of single shot types - avod the smaller ones - they suck bad.


--pete

Look a great tool, I did not know these desoldering tool. Very expensive !

Offline mresistor

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Re: Solder Sucker vs Wick on 3DPT PCB
« Reply #6 on: November 14, 2020, 09:03:09 am »
I picked up one of these solder suckers a while back and it works pretty darn good.  How long it will last I don't know but no signs of breaking down yet.   I don't do as much desoldering as some other
people do though.  It's just a good low cost tool.


https://www.fasttech.com/product/9656746-pro-skit-dp-366d-anti-static-solder-sucker

Offline Latole

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Re: Solder Sucker vs Wick on 3DPT PCB
« Reply #7 on: November 14, 2020, 02:16:35 pm »
I picked up one of these solder suckers a while back and it works pretty darn good.  How long it will last I don't know but no signs of breaking down yet.   I don't do as much desoldering as some other
people do though.  It's just a good low cost tool.


https://www.fasttech.com/product/9656746-pro-skit-dp-366d-anti-static-solder-sucker

Look close to my Soldapullt DS107 wich last many hundred desoldering.

Offline brewdude

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Re: Solder Sucker vs Wick on 3DPT PCB
« Reply #8 on: November 14, 2020, 03:18:36 pm »
I have never been able to figure out the proper technique for using solder wick/braid... there must be a way to make it work, but I have not found it.


Offline shooter

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Re: Solder Sucker vs Wick on 3DPT PCB
« Reply #9 on: November 14, 2020, 04:28:46 pm »
Quote
never been able to figure out 
buy a roll of 2.5mm "no-clean" wick, smash the plastic off your '80s boombox and wick off the solder, when you're done, you'll have the hang of it  :icon_biggrin:


assuming what you want out is bad
cut it out, ic's, R's, caps, etc, that way you have less metal sucking precious heat from the task at hand.


the key to desoldering PCB is NOT try n get all the solder the 1st pass, move around, let previous joint cool.  keep each "heat/wick cycle" to ~ 2seconds after flow, then you're done, let it cool, move on.  Also, start ~ 2" from the end, when flow happens, pull the wick and wrap around the lead til you hit the end, cut off and repeat.


most of the time 1 pass will be enough to "crack" the remaining solder by using pliers to gently wiggle the lead, DON'T pull, that's how pads get ripped.
once the lead is out, lay the wick flat on the pad, apply heat and pull wick easy to "clean up" the left over solder




Went Class C for efficiency


 


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