Hi, Thank you for the replies and info.
The required adjustment would be "use a solid-state driver" as Marshall did. 
The $30 you spend on the 4FBxxxx, 8FBxxxx or 9FBxxxxx reverb tank will be the smartest purchase you made for your amp.
Thanks HotBluesPlates, I'm thinking you are right, especially as I'm not sure if the 4BB tank I have is still working 100%, to go with a known tank that works with a transformer less driver is the safer bet.
New 4EB*** .. AUS$70
I started out with the 2Deaf reverb driver in the OP of this thread, and an FB tank. I found the circuit actually worked better with an EB tank
Thanks Pullshocks, it was your original post from 2016 that came up in my search and which I found very helpful, and lead to this post.
Good to know that it works well, and thanks for the link to the update on the progression to an 4EB tank 600Ω.
I'm thinking 4FB tank seems the best option. Theory out lined on the ValveWizzard site suggests the higher impedance the better .
https://www.valvewizard.co.uk/reverbdriver.htmlThe Ampeg GU-12 driver uses a 6U10 medium triode stage that has the same plate resistance as the 12AU7, 7700Ω, and a little less plate current of 9.6mA. So the 12AU7 should show similar performance

(Ref: Robert Megantz)
My project has a way to go, the guts of the DSL haven't even been removed yet and I'm still just tweaking the schematic
and wondering how I'm going to design the layout within the chassis while getting around the present placement of valve holes.. without adding more.. , turret board & tag strip will be the go.
I might get to posting on that as it progresses.
Thanks again.
(Edited)