Tolex for Complex Corner

[roboDNA]

Hello,

Does anyone have tips on how I can tolex this side/corner?  I was looking to do 45 degree corners and wrap the top/bottom panels in the same manner as my fender 6G15 build but realize that will not work.  Any pro tips?

Thanks

[acheld]

Oh yes, I recall that one!   PITA!

You will have a seam where that angle breaks to go south, so to speak.  I don't think there is a way around it.  As I recall, it looked fine in the end, but I had to redo one (or more).

I haven't built one like that again . . .  I've tried to simplify my designs as best I can. 

[roboDNA]

Oh yes, I recall that one!   PITA!

You will have a seam where that angle breaks to go south, so to speak.  I don't think there is a way around it.  As I recall, it looked fine in the end, but I had to redo one (or more).

I haven't built one like that again . . .  I've tried to simplify my designs as best I can.

I was worried about it not being possible :(  Here is an updated image of my cabinet. 

Maybe if I make the top or front screw-on panels?

It's similar to a Marshall 'slant cab'.

I guess I can build it and try different ways to wrap it.

[acheld]

You could consider a finish like Rubio Monocoat -- looks great and very easy to apply.  Not cheap, but you don't need much.  It is true that Tolex is more durable

For Tolex, any of your ideas can work.    When I come up against a complex job like this, I will "Tolex" with paper -- so I know what I need to do on the real thing.   Trying to make an exact template never worked for me, but you can get close enough that you don't have big pieces of glued tolex flopping around.

[roboDNA]

Any tips on how to avoid the 'v' shaped cut exposing the wood on the angled edge?

How do the pros usually tolex front slanted amps?

One idea that was suggested ( for bookbinding ) is to apply tolex along the edge first, and then applying the side panel tolex over it so the wood would not be exposed at the 'v' cut.  But the seam of the v cut in the tolex would show.

Another suggestion is to make the front edges on the side panel 90degrees instead of rounded and  use plastic strip/molding but the top of the cab has rounded edges so I would need to transition from rounding to 90degree edge.  It was suggested that would look poorly finished.  Also if I only round 2 or the 3 sides of the corners on the top/bottom panels, it will make tolexing those corners more difficult.

Here is the angle I'm refering to:

[acheld]

How do the pros usually tolex front slanted amps?

There is not really a good answer for that, I think.  Every craftsman I know, including myself, does his craft his way.

So I'm assuming that you're stuck with that design . . .   And by the way, when I design my cabs, I always factor in what the finish will be -- as an example Tolex really does not stretch well, and that's why rounded surfaces are more difficult.  Whereas fabric, such as Alcantara,  will stretch (if you buy the correct type) and does work well with rounded surfaces.  And for truly complex surfaces I won't cover at all, but use a tough surface finish. 

To get back to your question:   Make a paper template first.  That is, use a flat piece of paper taped to your outside of the panel, then start making your cuts with sharp scissors and a razor -- the critical one will be at that "V" in the center of the slant.   Then fold the paper over the edges and trim to the crease of the "V", eventually folding the paper over to the "inside" of cab.  You'll see where your overlap is, and where you'll trim, and where there is overlap.   

Do this a second time, but now make sure your paper is large enough to cover everything you want covered from the one piece of Tolex.  Now, you can cut your Tolex to the template -- but (important!) do NOT try to pre-cut the Tolex so that it will fit like a glove right off the bat.  It never ever does.   You will need to for your final cuts while gluing.  But now you will have practiced your layout using paper, and you'll know what to expect. If you need to, do another paper template until you've got it right.

Seams -- where two cut edges come together -- are always a challenge.  Sometimes you get lucky and they are perfect.  In my experience, not so much. I will use a magic marker to color in the seam sometimes -- it hides the white threads.  Other times, when I know there will be a small gap, I make my cuts, peel back the Tolex and put a small amount of appropriately colored RTV sealant along the line where the seam will be, replace the cut Tolex and it will fill in nicely.  If you're careful, this can also be done from the outside after the glue is set (I've had Tolex shrink when the wrong glue was used).   

So, no easy answer.  It takes patience and time. 

[roboDNA]

Good info. thanks.  I see what you mean about making the design fit the finish.  The paper templates do help big time.  My backup plan is to use duratex but do have my heart set on tolex.

I ordered some T Molding and a T Molding router bit.  I removed the rounding on the side edges and will try applying t-molding around the whole perimeter of the 2 side edges, covering the V cuts on the angle edges. 

[roboDNA]

For my 2 rounded corner edges ( 1 straight non-routed edge ), 1 rounded corner edges ( 2 straight edges ), and standard 45 seam edges:  Has anyone ever tried heating/melting the tolex seams with an iron or heat gun somehow?  I wonder how that would work/look.  I vaguely recall seeing some type of chemical bonding of vinyl somewhere and the seam was almost invisible.  Sorry if this is a silly idea, just curious....

Using that silicone with color pigment to match the tolex would be good too... but i have purple and other colored tolex. ( ok for black though... maybe transparent? )

In the meantime, I'll just hide the seams with the t molding.

All good tips, thanks.

[acheld]

I vaguely recall seeing some type of chemical bonding of vinyl somewhere and the seam was almost invisible.

No harm in trying that.   Glue up some scraps to make yourself a seam, and give it a try . . . 

[ac427v]

Dang. I just threw away some unneeded vinyl flooring seam sealer. It partially dissolved the flooring edges and allowed the two pieces to meld together. I would have tried it on some old cabs that have flaws I live with.