If there was power supply ripple, it could still be reduced by your gates.
Say 5v ripple is present throughout the amp (even though that is unlikely, as it would be reduce by successive filter stages). 5v hum in the face of hundreds of volts of signal swing at the output tube plates is nothing.
Assume your amp makes 50w output and has a 4k:8Ω OT. Turns ratio is 22.4:1, and this is the amount by which the plate output voltage is stepped down. 5v/22.4 = 223mV. 50w across 8Ω is 20v RMS, so hum is down about 20dB. Realistically, it is reduced further, because we haven't considered how the OT primary and tube plate resistance form a divider to reduce the hum even more.
BUT... that is mostly valid for a single-ended output stage; push-pull cancels power supply hum at the plate.
5v ripple at the screen is also basically nothing in the face of 400v+ of supply voltage. It will be amplified slightly by the tube, but is still low at the speaker, and similar to what we calculated above. Actual ripple input to the screen will have been reduced by the power supply caps and choke.
5v ripple at the output tube grid would be significant, but your amp will likely use fixed bias with its own filter and voltage divider, so the grid will not be relevant here. I did once fix an amp with a failed bias cap that had a nice smooth 60Hz hum injected directly to the grid (with peaks as big as the bias voltage). But you won't have that situation unless you yank the bias cap.
The probably long tail phase inverter will largely reject hum in the B+ supply, because it's a differential amp and the hum will be a common-mode signal. Cancellation is probably not perfect, but hum output will be well down from the 5v starting value.
That leaves us with the preamp, and I'm not certain where exactly your effects loop falls in the preamp. Regardless, hum will be somewhat reduced by the voltage divider made of a tube and its plate load (and following stage grid resistance). However, the gain following an early stage makes the amount of hum present more significant.
I'm thinking your amps' power supplies are probably fine and doing their job reducing noise, which is probably reducing the (possibly large) noise on the line. A power inlet filter consists of caps across the line and from each side of the line to ground, as well as chokes in many cases. It's designed to fail-safe if any part fails, and will try to reduce noise on the line itself.
But like I said, I don't know enough about ratings for these and what typical noisy electrical service stuff is like, so I can't really recommend anything. Maybe RicharD will see this and chime in.
Other than that, testing your amps somewhere else that you know to have clean electrical service is probably the best plan. I can't tell you how frustrating it is to try to fix someone's amp that only acts up in their house. I once worked on a guy's amp that hummed when I listened to it in his house, but was quiet when I got it back to my house. Then of course, it hummed when we were back at his house. I'm 95% sure he had wiring faults in his house's outlets.