Have a Deluxe Reverb II on the bench. Nice amp, actually. Rivera-era Fender, 1-channel Deluxe Reverb with ch switch and boost. Complaint: blows fuses. This is a school amp, so I doubt it is ever played stressed, though it *may* be left on for gig-length periods of time.
So, I do the usual. The e-caps (stock: 3-in-a-can) have been replaced w/individual externals. OK. All else seems just fine and stock. 6V6 output tubes = newish JJ's. Replace fuse with teeny wire short, power up amp into a dummy load and let cook @ 0. All seems fine. Dial up to 5, let cook. no problem. Dial up to 10, no problem. The thing puts out plenty of volts, my dummy load is heating up mildly, output trace somewhat distorted, more than I would like to see, even at low volumes. At higher volumes, 6V6 outputs are HOTTT, but not redplating.
I decide to put a 1 ohm resistor under the cathode of one tube to see how much current the thing draws in use. Easy enough, tack it in there.
So I also pull out the 6V6 tubes, they look very good. Put them back in. I am putting them in upside down, with the amp chassis in a cradle. Not exactly thrilled with how much the terminals wiggle and waggle when I rotate the 6V6s to align the key. Very loosy-goosey. Power back on. Hmmm. Zero cathode current thru my resistor. Huh? One 6V6 does not light up (the one whose cathode I lifted) and I start to hear a sizzling sound and smell electro-stink. Quick, shut down.
The particular octal sockets used in this amp allow these 6V6 JJ tubes [only] to be inserted into the sockets without regard to the tube-base key!! I have the sucker in one pin off on one of the output tubes! RCA, Sylvania, and GE tubes of many diff vintages (some as old as WW2) will all orient at least two ways in these particular octal sockets; correctly, and 180 degrees off. Five different manufacturers of octal sockets sitting in my junkbox and other gear lying around. The JJ's orient properly, only one way, in any of them. The center hole in these Fender-amp sockets are too big. In terms of the size of the key in either the base or the socket, but especially the center-hole in the socket, we are talking teensy amounts, but enough to allow an octal tube to be put in wrong. Never seen that before.
This of course has nothing to do with the original complaint. This is maintenance-induced failure. Even though it reads per spec (-33 vdc) I think I am going to cool out the (fixed) bias by at least 5 volts, though. Now I have a conundrum as to whether to replace the output tube sockets. Probably should.
Just thought it was an unusual experience.