Completed 6G15 Reverbbbbbbbbb

[p2pAmps]

Here is a cool reverb unit I just finished for a guy in FL.  Fun build and dang it was tight in there LOL

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vB-QO1Yf1VU

And a sound check

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MJH1MeqObnY&feature=youtu.be

[tubeswell]

's nuthin' touches a 6G15 for reverb

[Shack]

sounds cool....build one of those or the revibe and never have to build reverb in amps :)

[EL34]

Looks good and sounds good Mike


Isn't it weird that my 6G15 layout is just about the same as the 5E3


You are not getting any hum from the 6G15 but  that one 5E3 had a hum issue?


I am still scratching my head on that one?

[p2pAmps]

Looks good and sounds good Mike


Isn't it weird that my 6G15 layout is just about the same as the 5E3


You are not getting any hum from the 6G15 but  that one 5E3 had a hum issue?


I am still scratching my head on that one?

Well in all fairness Doug, I was very conscious of where I placed the board and I was worried about hum.  I tried my best to keep the 40uF B+ as far away from the pots as possible which made it a very tight fit (see pics here -  http://www.p2pamps.com/6g15-reverb/ )

I did another 5e3 after the one with the hum and reversed the caps on that one too and it was very quiet.  I do wish the chassis was about another inch or two bigger on all tweeds

[EL34]

I hear ya on that
I hate wiring up boards in tweed chassis

[p2pAmps]

I hear ya on that


I hate wiring up boards in tweed chassis

Same here.  I always wire my boards first then it's just a matter of connecting it all up.  I think Slucky said he actually trims the wires, tins, them before setting the board. which is not a bad idea.

[HotBluePlates]

I hate wiring up boards in tweed chassis

Same here.  I always wire my boards first then it's just a matter of connecting it all up.  I think Slucky said he actually trims the wires, tins, them before setting the board. which is not a bad idea.

You're almost getting into a production-footing for some of these models (especially the Princeton Reverbs!). Here's something I never implemented because I wasn't producing in high-enough volume, but you might consider:

- If the chassis & components used won't vary (i.e., they are consistent in size from build to build), then you can standardize the placement of holes for board/transformers on your chassis, without deriving them each time. So this amounts to a standard chassis drilling template.

- The follow-on of that drilling template (and the point of this post), is you can standardize the length of each wire running between the sockets/board/pots. You'd have to do a build with sufficient, but not excessive, slack in each wire. Then disassemble your build, measure the wires, and for future builds use cut-to-length wire for each run from board/sockets/pots. Works really well if you're using push-back cloth wire.

- Individual wire lengths in the prototype build will likely be all over the place. However, you'll naturally find a smaller handful of lengths that work and can replace several slightly-shorter wire lengths found in the prototype build.

I know Fender (and probably Kendrick, Victoria) did this with vintage and modern tweed-style amps. And the biggest hassle of wiring sockets/pots of a tweed chassis (when the board already had the wires attached) is cutting to length & stripping in the tight space available to work. If you use the cloth push-back wire (the real stuff available from Hoffman, rather than the fake stuff from AES/CE Dist), you eliminate the stripping issue. If you've already standardized the wire lengths, you eliminate the time & waste of cutting wiring to length.

After that, a tweed build is all about figuring out a workable order-of-install to make things easier. I bet you noticed installing the board would have been easier if you don't install/wire the pilot light until the board is bolted down. In some cases, a pre-wired pot assembly is best dropped in after the board is bolted down, but the sockets have to be installed with their heater wiring done before the board goes in.

[p2pAmps]

I hate wiring up boards in tweed chassis

Same here.  I always wire my boards first then it's just a matter of connecting it all up.  I think Slucky said he actually trims the wires, tins, them before setting the board. which is not a bad idea.

You're almost getting into a production-footing for some of these models (especially the Princeton Reverbs!). Here's something I never implemented because I wasn't producing in high-enough volume, but you might consider:

- If the chassis & components used won't vary (i.e., they are consistent in size from build to build), then you can standardize the placement of holes for board/transformers on your chassis, without deriving them each time. So this amounts to a standard chassis drilling template.

- The follow-on of that drilling template (and the point of this post), is you can standardize the length of each wire running between the sockets/board/pots. You'd have to do a build with sufficient, but not excessive, slack in each wire. Then disassemble your build, measure the wires, and for future builds use cut-to-length wire for each run from board/sockets/pots. Works really well if you're using push-back cloth wire.

- Individual wire lengths in the prototype build will likely be all over the place. However, you'll naturally find a smaller handful of lengths that work and can replace several slightly-shorter wire lengths found in the prototype build.

I know Fender (and probably Kendrick, Victoria) did this with vintage and modern tweed-style amps. And the biggest hassle of wiring sockets/pots of a tweed chassis (when the board already had the wires attached) is cutting to length & stripping in the tight space available to work. If you use the cloth push-back wire (the real stuff available from Hoffman, rather than the fake stuff from AES/CE Dist), you eliminate the stripping issue. If you've already standardized the wire lengths, you eliminate the time & waste of cutting wiring to length.

After that, a tweed build is all about figuring out a workable order-of-install to make things easier. I bet you noticed installing the board would have been easier if you don't install/wire the pilot light until the board is bolted down. In some cases, a pre-wired pot assembly is best dropped in after the board is bolted down, but the sockets have to be installed with their heater wiring done before the board goes in.

No production shop for me, this is a fun hobby and I fully intend to keep it that way :)

Now, Some of the things you mentioned I already do.  But I don't cut Individual wire lengths although it might cut down on waste.  I use either teflon or doug's cloth wire.  I rarely if ever use PVC.  I normally wire the boards after a good pre-fit so once they are done I drop them in place and start connecting wires to sockets and pots.  I usually do heaters last but not always, depends on how I feel that day and rather or not I think it will be in my way.  On Tweeds I always do heaters before I drop in the board...

[Shack]

Does teflon wire withstand soldering iron heat better than PVC?  Every time I use PVC  the insulation starts to melt near the ends

[shooter]

Does teflon wire withstand soldering iron heat better than PVC?

for me, way better!

[Willabe]

Does teflon wire withstand soldering iron heat better than PVC?

YES!!!!!   

[sluckey]

You can coil it around your iron tip and leave it on all day without damaging the insulation.

[HotBluePlates]

Does teflon wire withstand soldering iron heat better than PVC?  ...

Think a moment about "Teflon non-stick pans".  The #1 reason teflon is used as an insulation for wiring is its capability to withstand heat.

The material itself is also slippery; the use in non-stick pans came well after its use as a wire (and sometimes wiring terminal) insulator.

[tubeswell]

FWIW the best solutions for hum in a 6G15 that I have found (after years of experimentation LoL) are:


1) to use galactic signal ground returns and signal-ground elevation with the input and output jack grounds insulated from the chassis. See Merlin Blencowe's article on grounding (attached). For the hum loop block circuit, it is sufficient for a 6G15 if you use a 5W wire-wound 15R for the elevation resistor || 2 x nose-to-tail 6A diodes || 0.1uF.


2) to mount the output transducer end of the reverb pan away from the PT