Soldering question

[Outerspace]

Hi folks, I am a highly motivated but painfully new hobbyist and am still learning the basics.  My question is about connecting wires to switches or pots, etc.  I am trying to finish my Paia preamp kit, was able to solder the board together but am a little confused as to how to do a good job soldering my wires to their connections.

The manual recommends winding the wire around the lug a few times for a strong mechanical connection, but I must have hands that are too large because this seems to be impossible.  I found this video which recommends twisting the wire.  Is this kosher?

Any other suggestions?

Also, how does one change one's password?  I have been unable to find the link.

Thanks, look forward to posting here.

[LooseChange]

Hi,
IMO, that twisting job is overkill.  I usually put the straight wire through the tab of the pot and without moving a thing I solder.  Sometimes I will bend the lead so it does not fall out of the hole but that is it.

PAIA is still around??

[Hemi526]

  I like to make a small loop in the end of the wire so it actually hooks into the hole on the switch/pot etc. Keep the strands of the loop twisted together. It mainly just helps hold the wire in place while soldering and give a more mechanical connection. I think Loosechange is correct, twisting is overkill. It didnt appear to me that the guy on You Tube was very professional at soldering anyway. JMHO

[Fresh_Start]

Outerspace - that guy's soldering technique is HORRIBLE.  If you are using stranded wire, you should tin the wire first.  Also, you need to make sure that nothing moves while the solder cools.  Letting it move like he does virtually guarantees a "cold solder joint" which will not conduct properly.  Personally, I tin the wire, make a hook in it, put the hook through the terminal on the pot/switch/whatever, pinch it tight with pliers, then solder.

For some good soldering info, try the links at the bottom of the second post in this thread

Respectfully,

Chip

[Iannone]

Outspace, listen to FreshStart, Hemi & LooseChange on this.  The only real need for a mechanically sound joint is to keep the work stationary during the few seconds it takes for the solder to cure.   Wrapping the wire around the lug several times is not only extremely difficult, it makes unsoldering your mistakes a genuine pain in the posterior.

[sluckey]

The only real need for a mechanically sound joint is to keep the work stationary during the few seconds it takes for the solder to cure.

A good mechanical connection is the heart of a good electrical connection. Solder is supposed to keep the good mechanical connection together. It's not supposed to be used to actually provide continuity between the two objects.

[bigsbybender]

Solder is supposed to keep the good mechanical connection together. It's not supposed to be used to actually provide continuity between the two objects.

Right!  Lead/Tin aren't the best conductors. I had to learn this the hard way  :-[ on eyelet boards.  Now I'm certain that I make the component positively touches the eyelet before solder. On *most* of my new builds I use turrets.


j.

[RicharD]

The guy in the video has poor technique.  Although I do believe a good mechanical connection is vital, all that twisting is overkill and may leave too much exposed conductor in some situations.  As others have noted, if you're using stranded wire, tin it first.  Make a tidy hook and pinch it around what you are connecting.  Clean your iron tip with a wet sponge. Apply a small drop of solder to the tip of the iron.  This will transfer heat much better than a dry iron because of greater surface contact.  Notice in the video the guy had a dry tip and he was struggling.  If possible apply the heat from underneath, but this isn't always possible.  Apply the solder to the surface being soldered and not the iron and not in huge globs.  Remove the heat and make sure the soldered parts do not move at all until the solder has cooled.  I don't suggest blowing whereas the wind can move the parts just enough to cause a bad joint.

Some folks are OK with the solder making the mechanical connection.  I'm not of this school, especially where tubes are involved.  We have a Soldano on the bench right now that someone else replaced an output socket on.  Soldano constructs his output stages using continuous bus wire jumping the sockets, much like early telephone equipment.  It's really quite lovely.  well the person who replaced the socket cut these continuous wires and relied purely on solder for the new connections at the socket he replaced.  The ground gave way which caused a platefire.  B+ ended up hitting the filaments.  Every single tube in the amp fried, the filament secondary fried, and the hum balance resistors EXPLODED.  Moral of the story, make a good mechanical connection.
  

[Outerspace]

Thanks for the responses.

I'm glad to see that there is consensus on the twisting, I will disregard.  

Freshstart, I appreciate the pliers tip and the links you posted, all very helpful.

What I did was 1 loop through, and 1 (small) wrap back around the wire and tightened with needlenose pliers, worked very well (as far as my tiny mind could tell).

Another issue I noticed in the links provided and elsewhere, is what are the pros/cons of filling the hole with solder?  Some sites swear by it and some don't mention it at all.

Opinions?

[AZJimC]

From what I have done, whether or not you fill the hole is inconsequential, just make sure you have a good joint. If that fills the hole then ok, if not ok, IMHO.

Having soldered literally since I had to stand on a chair to reach the bench, and being taught by a radiator man who unsoldered and resoldered automotive radiator tanks, even so far as unsoldering the thin copper and brass tubes from the header that the tank attaches to, all with an oxy/acetylene torch, (that's temp control!), I think I could call that training and experience as well, at 51 yrs old. I am certainly of the school that only pokes the wire into the hole and support the part well enough to see that it remains steady till the solder hardens. (An alligator clip is handy for this, when needed, and also acts as a heat sink between the solder joint and the body of the component.) It is much easier, quicker, and disassembly is MUCH easier. That type of electrical connection is plenty good for the currents flowing through these amps.

The only way I even attempt to make a mechanical connection first is if the amp (current) load would be enough to heat the connection enough to melt the solder, like on auto battery cable ends and such. These have sometimes 400+ amps and a poor connection can melt solder right off the joint. In an amp, most connections are milliamps, not enough to heat a hair size wire. (Maybe a little exaggeration, but not much.) A sound joint that won't cause a whisper of noise when wiggled is plenty good.

Regards Ya'll,

Jim

[HotBluePlates]

Good soldering technique is a matter of practice.

Basic rule of thumb: Use the minimum solder that allows a properly "wetted" solder joint. If you use too much solder, you increase the chances of having solder drips make unintended connections (a short to ground, for instance).

Good mechanical connection is also necessary, but the video linked shows the guy going way overboard by twisting the wires. A "good mechanical connection" means that the joint will conduct reliably even with no solder applied. If you cannot be sure that is the case with the connection you're making, your solder joint is suspect before you even solder. The solder itself should only be used to ensure that the mechanical connection does not move and come loose. In other words, don't rely on solder to make the electrical connection.

Like everything else with amps and electronics, people can take this concept way too far if they don't have enough experience.

[Fresh_Start]

One tip I learned after quite a while:  after soldering a joint, clean the tip and then tin it again before putting the iron back on the stand.  Tips last much longer that way compared to putting a "naked" tip back in the stand for a while.

Chip

[thermion]

when making a ground connection to chassis, i like to crimp and solder on a ring terminal and bolt that sucker down with a lock washer. i've encountered a few fender-type grounds soldered directly to chassis that popped off; this is tougher with a solid mechanical connection. also, use a large gauge (small bead) solder to reduce the chance of blobs ending up where they don't belong. that said, of course minimize the amount of time the iron is applied to the parts. don't make too good of a mechanical connection unless you don't make mistakes; indeed these overzealous wraps, once soldered, are a dirty PITA to fix. cleans leads and wires off before you solder them. build up a good working relationship with your solder-sucker. DON"T PRESS THE ENGAGE BUTTON ON THE SOLDER SUCKER WHILE IT'S OVER THE CHASSIS!! keep track of where your solder pen is in relation to surrounding parts and wires - burn marks all over the guts makes you look either like a hack or rook. i'm not sure which is worse. stay thermionic, my friends.

[mick]

I like how the video dude burnt the table when he soldered.  ::)


Mick