What's the best way to attach the wires on turret board?

[frank57]

I'm going to try Paul Ruby's idea for this amp.
I didn't put the board together so Paul gets all the credit for the nice job.
The bias pot is not on the little board as the diagram indicates.
It was changed.

 I'm unfamiliar with turret boards to some extent.
What's the best way to attach the wires here?
I wrap them around the turret and solder?
Or solder to the pads underneath?

A newbie's work is never done.

[FYL]

What's the best way to attach the wires here?
I wrap them around the turret and solder?
Or solder to the pads underneath?

Common methods:

Standard component leads are usually inserted in the turret and soldered, over-sized ones are wrapped around the turret, then soldered.
I/O leads are usually wrapped and soldered, sometimes inserted under board and soldered.
Straps are mounted under board, stripped and tinned ends are inserted and soldered.

[Fresh_Start]

There are "wrong" ways to do it, but also several "right" ways.  Here's Doug Hoffman's advice:

http://www.el34world.com/charts/toolhowto.htm

http://www.el34world.com/boardmaker/BOARD2.htm

http://www.el34world.com/boardmaker/BOARD3.htm

This is a pic of a Super Reverb board fully loaded and ready to install in the chassis:


I almost always drill a 1/8"  hole next to each turret an under-board wire connects to, pull each end up through the hole, wrap around the turret on top of the board, and solder there.  That way I can verify underboard connections more easily after the board is installed.  Plus, re-heating a turret multiple times for component swaps etc. won't cause the under-board connection to fall out of the bottom of the turret.  I also drill a hole for some of the off-board connections, especially if their turret is closer to the middle of the board than the front (or back) edge.

Being a bit compulsive, I also like to follow a set color-scheme for wiring:
yellow - cathode
orange - grids
blue - plates
red - B+
violet (or blue) - B- (bias)
white - controls (to & from tone stack, etc.)
black (or green) - ground

You can do it any way you like provided that (1) you get good, solid solder joints, and (2) can correct mistakes if needed.

BTW those bent needle-nosed pliers are great.

Hope this helps,

Chip

[simonallaway]

+1

Based on Chip's and Doug's page's advice I use that technique. It works beautifully. Here's a close-up:

http://hotbottles.files.wordpress.com/2010/04/assembly_1_3.jpg

[frank57]

cool info!
I'll wire it up first and see what you guys think
before soldering anything.