The total heater current is as you stated.
Regarding the heaters you could try the following which will probably not solve
the problem but just check if it has any impact to the hum level:
I suppose you use two balancing resistors in the heater circuit. Disconnect the resistors
from the ground and connect them to a positive voltage instead. One good place is the power
tube cathode where the voltage is a bit more than 10VDC. If the hum decreases significantly
put more focus on the heater circuit.
Actually I do believe that the heater supply
is not an issue as far as the wires are twisted & tightened firmly ; they are kept in phase too from the first power tube until the last preamp tube.
The gut pic isn't updated, sorry : I've already applied (& not stated) a DC reference by connecting the artificial centre tap, the 2 x 100Rs to the EL84s cathode. My bias votlage is 11.2VDC.
I nevertheless just want to be sure that the heater supply is OK.
Do you think it'd be useless to purchase a 6VDC battery to be sure, since the DC reference didn't improve anything ?
As nice of a job to the amp to this point, there's multiple lead dress issues here. All of those preamp wires running down along w/ each other and crossing near the heat wires, then directly under other components should be corrected or discouraged. The pi wiring is a mess too. These are very sensitive and it appears there's a lot of long length grid wires throughout. These should all be short and/or shielded. The grounds look suspect. Are the power tubes' heater wires all in phase with each other? There's many of the same issues as this thread - http://www.el34world.com/Forum/index.php?topic=11494.msg106654#msg106654
Try to focus on one thing at a time...check those heater wires phasing on power tubes, and get them away from all of the preamp wires before anything else.
Thanks for your input jojokeo, you besides saved me last year from drowning (as regards another AC30 with a
burning bias...)
I know that there are both serious & multiple lead dress issues concerning the preamp in particular.
Worst of all : I had formerly wired everything here in such a manner that neither any of the plate wires nor any heater wires were running near/along either the grid wires or the cathode wires : it was
horrible to see, but the amp was dead quiet, & you would hardly noticed it when switched on.
I had just followed Doug's instructions :
"...You may want to keep the red wires, going to PINS 1 and 6, away from the black and white wires. You can suspend the red wires above the other wires or the other way around but they should not be laid next to or parallel to the black and white wires. The red plate wires contain the high voltage and may induce noise into the other wires..."
Nonetheless, I assume you know that :
"Better is the enemy of good", therefore I've rewired it in a
neater way, which is not so neat @ all to hear now...

Still can you confirm that it is
recommended or at least acceptable to twist the wires of each individual triode together, as said by Merlin ??? That seems rather astonishing compared to what suggests Doug, no ?
I have a growing feeling that I'll rewire it once again.
At last, I think my grounds are OK although it's not so evident or even confusing on the pic :
- both poweramp & preamp ground bus are linked together
- the ground bus of the pots is connected to the cathode resistors & bypass caps of the preamp
- the PS caps are connected to the grounds of the audio circuits they feed
- then the preamp ground is connected to the input jacks
- next input jacks are connected to a star ground system (receiving the PT centre tap + the reservoir cap ground) itself connected to a humloop block network made of 1 x 10R 12W + 1 x .1 µF 630V + 2 x 1N4007s all in parallel