here are photo's of my 71 musicmaster bass amp changed into a 6G2 /5E3

[catnine]

 The cab is pine , I had to cut out the glued in partical baffle board in order for the much larger allen amps OT to clear . I was going to remove the entire baffle but sice the partical board was still sturdy I just cut most of the board out and left the sides and part of the bottom in place and made a new baffle out of 1/2 " plywood that was flat and solid and used the sides of the original baffle to screw mount the new baffle and added new grill cloth.

[tubeswell]

I love the simplicity of the concept. The old chassis and cab is a great utilisation of otherwise defunct resources and the result is aesthetically very pleasing. I bet you are stoked! Well done.

[six el six]

I have one of these and I'd like to do something like this to it as well. If you have a shot inside the chassis I'd love to see it. Did you use turrets or eyelets or...?

[LooseChange]

Long time ago, I had a Super Champ (Revera design) and had it installed in a Musicmaster cabinet. It fit perfect and gave me a 12" speaker.

[catnine]

I have one of these and I'd like to do something like this to it as well. If you have a shot inside the chassis I'd love to see it. Did you use turrets or eyelets or...?

 
Yes I used an eyelet board from a weber 5E3 he sells them separate. here is a photo of the inside .

 Depending on what you want to do a Champ PT fits right in . I used one from Allen Amps a TP25 and his OT for a princeton a TO25. With his PT you can run 6V6's or a pair of 6L6's .

 I used the weber 5E3 eyelet board because I was going to build a 5E3 with just one vol and one tone and found the front section of the 6G2 fit the bill without the trem better than the way the tone stack using one 12--7 triode . Unlike the 6G2 I used V-2 for the PI and V-1 for the preamp which is what is done on the 5E3 . This way I can change the preamp tube for the gain I want and use a 12ay7 like the 5E3 . The 6G2 uses 1/2 of V-1 and the other half for the preamp and the second gain stage and 1/2 of V-2 for the PI and the other 1/2 of V-2 for the trem.

 Depends on what you want to build.

[catnine]

 You know thinking back when I made the baffle board there used to be two nice hardwood dealers here but both are gone . I went to Home depot and wanted birch for the baffle , I didn;t need an entire sheet and they have 24" x 24" sections but very single one was warped even the 3/4" so iwent to a place called anawalt and looked throught thier precut birch and found the same warped section , then I went over to the rack that had cutoffs and found a section if either pine or fir plywood that had one side sanded and the other side had one knot . it was a bit thicker than 1/2" yet I figured since it was under shelter but still outdoors it was as straight as an arrow . Then I used what I saw in some baffle builds whcih I had 1/4" thick fiber board which I cut and used to hold the grill cloth away from the baffle. I perhaps should have used some of the 1/4" thick birch ply I had for that part but I never thought .

 I was going to take the entire partical board baffle out of the pine cab but I saw they were stapled in , I was going to remove the partical board from the routed groves in the pine cab and make pine stays and glue them in . Then I cut the partical board baffle out using a good jig saw and used the edge of the jig saw to determine how much of the partical board baffle was left , it was a bit wider than I wanted but the speaker could fit in between and I also thought well if I leave the bottom part of the partical baffle in place it will keep the old pine cab square .

 Perhaps one day If I live that long I will take out the rest of the old partical board glued and stapled in baffle and make pine stays to fit the routing and get 1/2" thick baltic birch ply for the baffle.

 It has been over two years since I replaced the baffle and it is still as firm and true as it was , the old partical board was not really brittle and didn't chip when i cut it , I just never cared for partical board for anything. The weber sig 12s alnico is not heavy . I stapled the grill cloth into the edge of the plywood baffle then cut it so it was not between the baffle and the cab partical board side stays . I see it done this way most of the time. I don't know if having the grill cloth between the stays and baffle would matter . I would have prefered to staple it on the back flat side of the baffle rather than on the edge , so far it has stayed put .

 What ever , it is what it is now and seems ok so far. If I recall and memory fades I think I sealed the baffle with shellac before air brushing it flat black.

 Time flies , I used to get all my wood to make my strats out of alder and flamed maple and a nice rosewood slab for the fingerboard for $40 not it costs over $80 just for the alder to make one body and the alder is not even from the same plank .

[six el six]

Thanks for the inside chassis shots. I think I'm going to copy your idea.