Personally speaking, I've built a number of lower powered amps specifically to use various power tubes for varying output power levels. Where I thought there would be greater tone differences, there really wasn't as much as I'd thought prior to completions. They do have a bit different characterstics but not as much as you might think. I've switched the output speaker jacks w/ an 8ohm speaker to the 4 & 16 ohm taps and there's very little differences to be noticed in most cases there too.
With using VVR, I've noticed that as the voltage was lowered for the first 1/4 to 1/3 of rotation of the control pot, there's almost no noticeable difference in tone or volume. Then when I get to half-way, the output power starts to get noticeably less, however the threshold of the amp staying clean gets less and distortion/overdrive tone begins to increase losing headroom. This amp doesn't have a master volume as the vvr control IS the master volume.
As this relates to the earlier comment of an amp built to 250v vs the amp lowered by vvr to 250v - you may not hear enough of a difference in that amount of change until maybe you start to get to around 200 volts? Or the vvr'd amp may start to get earlier break-up compared to the one designed to 250?